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Swedish daily beater


They_all_do_that_sir

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So I was off work today, and the Volvo was down to fumes.

Time to fit the fucking how much? Rubber seal. Old and new:d13e666f8630b6f85a643ec7c0677415.jpg

The old one was quite hard compared to the new one to be fair. Lots of time spent cleaning the mating surfaces because I don't want to have to take it all apart again:

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Nice new seal in its place

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And using the official* Volvo tool for tightening the locking ring down to the recommended torque setting of bloody tight:

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Job might be a good one. No idea until I brim the tank again but as it's the day before pay day that ain't gonna happen just yet.

Fitted this ages ago, doing well as it's the third car it's been in:

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Otherwise not a lot else to report. It's running well, but the clonking suspension is getting clonkier. Suspect drop links or strut tops. Instead of investigating further I washed it. If it looks fine then that's all that matters no?

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I've had exactly the same fuel pump issues with my V70 D5. The previous owner had routed the pipe to the sender incorrectly meaning it suffered from fuel starvation when the fuel level was low, the pump pick up was also absolutely clogged with shite. 

The pump is a PITA to get back through the hole and I think I bent the fuel level float... it now runs out of diesel when it's just above the red. 20 mins stranded in lane 1 of the M6 "Smart" motorway at 05.30 in the rain wasn't fun.  On the other hand it now does 250 miles before the level drops from max on the gauge, giving the illusion of doing 1000MPG or something. 

To add shit to piss the fuel level sender is also leaking like yours! I've tightened the locking ring up as much as it will go but it's still weeping. 

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I've had exactly the same fuel pump issues with my V70 D5. The previous owner had routed the pipe to the sender incorrectly meaning it suffered from fuel starvation when the fuel level was low, the pump pick up was also absolutely clogged with shite. 
The pump is a PITA to get back through the hole and I think I bent the fuel level float... it now runs out of diesel when it's just above the red. 20 mins stranded in lane 1 of the M6 "Smart" motorway at 05.30 in the rain wasn't fun.  On the other hand it now does 250 miles before the level drops from max on the gauge, giving the illusion of doing 1000MPG or something. 
To add shit to piss the fuel level sender is also leaking like yours! I've tightened the locking ring up as much as it will go but it's still weeping. 
It's like an awful lot of modern car tech in that it's probably not really designed to be taken apart......

I'll report back on rubber seal success when I can bring myself to fill the tank again, but I'm quietly confident after seeing how hard the old seal was. Also the new one was rather expensive, but maybe you get what you pay for?

As for the float, it should be a lot easier to refit than the pump, with the arm part facing the front of the car. There is an arrow on the top of the unit which should face the rear of the car. But it appears to be the cheapest built thing I've ever encountered, and I'm surprised mine didn't fall to pieces, or break a wire on reassembly. The arm looks very easy to bend!

Also for what it's worth mine is definitely reading differently after refitting - 90 miles remaining on the OBD shows on the fuel gauge is halfway through the red whereas before 90 miles would have been just above the red.

I think the OBD just makes shit up. Mine went from 120 miles remaining to 55 and back to 90 in the space of driving 10 miles.

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The sender on the passenger side was a doddle to refit, it’s the sender that’s attached to the pump swirl pot that was the pain I found, hence the float arm bendage. 
 
It’s an awkward, messy job! 
Ahh yes I get you now. I just stuffed it all back in and hoped for the best. Seems to be working so I'm not going back near it.

It certainly didn't seem to fit back in without persuasion.......

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4 hours ago, They_all_do_that_sir said:

It's like an awful lot of modern car tech in that it's probably not really designed to be taken apart......

I'll report back on rubber seal success when I can bring myself to fill the tank again, but I'm quietly confident after seeing how hard the old seal was. Also the new one was rather expensive, but maybe you get what you pay for?

As for the float, it should be a lot easier to refit than the pump, with the arm part facing the front of the car. There is an arrow on the top of the unit which should face the rear of the car. But it appears to be the cheapest built thing I've ever encountered, and I'm surprised mine didn't fall to pieces, or break a wire on reassembly. The arm looks very easy to bend!

Also for what it's worth mine is definitely reading differently after refitting - 90 miles remaining on the OBD shows on the fuel gauge is halfway through the red whereas before 90 miles would have been just above the red.

I think the OBD just makes shit up. Mine went from 120 miles remaining to 55 and back to 90 in the space of driving 10 miles.

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That seems to be a Volvo thing! My XC90 can go from 165 miles to empty to 70 miles to empty in 20 miles, sigh!

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  • 1 month later...

Pre Christmas shenanigans.......

Firstly I reversed into my bin at home. The tailgate is in two parts, the main part being aluminium (I think!) With a plastic skin on the outside.

Of course the plastic skin cracked. My mate in work is a massive Volvo head, and is friendly with his local scrap merchant so managed to source me a new panel for £20 in the correct colour with the correct badges....

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So out to the works carpark over lunch, all fitted

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My registration plate wouldn't stick on so I lobbed it in the rear window and drove home.

The bastard then rewarded me by developing a loud rumbling / vibrating noise. Bumhats. Opened the bonnet and the drive belt was vibrating / bouncing like mad. Great.

I'm moving house tomorrow, so the Volvo has been dumped in the naughty corner to be sorted post move. I haven't done any real diagnosis but I guess worst case scenario bottom pulley or alternator seized, but equally could just be a knackered tensioner. Watch this space......



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'Like' for the quick stealth fix out in the works car park.
'DISLIKE' for the drivebelt nonsense... hopefully an equally straightforward fix.
Best of luck with tomorrow's move! You're not going far, are you??
Closer to your good self. Which reminds me, I've the paperwork for the scooter still. I'll throw it round at some point!

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  • 2 weeks later...

House move completed, got the garage into some order so I was able to sort the pulley on the Volvo

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I picked up this kit - it was only £5 more than the single tool specific to my alternator but has most common configurations.

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All of the internets warn that while you can remove the pulley in situ, it's quicker and easier to just remove the alternator and do it on the bench.

However obviously I know better, and spent an hour fannying around trying to do it in situ. Much swearing was done, it was fiddly as hell getting two spanners on and near impossible to get any leverage onto them.
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Eventually I relented and whipped the alternator off. If you take anything from this post take this - just take the bloody alternator off! It took maybe 15 minutes - power steering pump unbolts from carrier three bolts on the alternator and loosen the Aircon pump mounts to let it slide out. Boom.

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Decent bit of leverage and off she popped. Remember that the pulley is on a left thread first....

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Done!

No noises or jumping belt at idle. I even stuck a new rear plate on too. Just needs a good wash......and drop links, and a lower engine torque mount......

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Looks like you have the same seats my old mans S60 has, which you soak into as the car soaks up the miles. Speaking of which will be up for sale once I've got it a new tyre and had the tracking done.

Handy to get a cheap laptop and VIDA if you're keeping the car, it helped me when I had the V70 diagnose D5 boost problems.

 

Looks like you're cracking on well with it. Top fixing 

Happy motoring

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I think I'm going to have to do this to my V70 soon, there's a whine from the pulley area and I suspect alternator. I've got a good used alternator and a new power steering pump to go on while I'm at it.
The clutch in mine had seized - at idle the belt was vibrating quite badly, and at higher RPM slipping on the alternator pulley.

Seems a common failure, and in worst case the belt can let go violently and take out the timing belt in the process

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Looks like you have the same seats my old mans S60 has, which you soak into as the car soaks up the miles. Speaking of which will be up for sale once I've got it a new tyre and had the tracking done.
Handy to get a cheap laptop and VIDA if you're keeping the car, it helped me when I had the V70 diagnose D5 boost problems.
 
Looks like you're cracking on well with it. Top fixing 
Happy motoring
I'll have to get Vida dice - it seems to tell you so much more than what you get from the wee OBD scanners

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Just read this thread from the start, I have a D5 S60 too and owned mine for nearly 3month's.

 

Mines the auto and it pulls like a train, turning circle is poor but it's such a comfy car to drive, waft to work in auto, go out for a drive to clear my head and it's hoot when you floor the loud pedal.

 

First volvo, not my last!

 

Davy

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Just read this thread from the start, I have a D5 S60 too and owned mine for nearly 3month's.
 
Mines the auto and it pulls like a train, turning circle is poor but it's such a comfy car to drive, waft to work in auto, go out for a drive to clear my head and it's hoot when you floor the loud pedal.
 
First volvo, not my last!
 
Davy
I think the auto would suit the car better, especially for wafting. But the manual is sensibly geared so makes for effortless motorway cruising.

Turning circle on these P2 Volvos is notoriously crap. Tight multistory carparks can be a drag. I previously had a V70 which was as bad - It's the width of the five cylinder engines AFAIK. Not sure if the focus ST with the Volvo lump is similarly afflicted?

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