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Swedish daily beater


They_all_do_that_sir

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So the Roomster I bought last year was coming up to MOT, and needed a few bits and peices. It was also proving a bit tiresome on longer journeys and because Autoshite I was getting bored.

 

So it was sold. Money was in my hand, I needed something with a decent bit of MOT that I can just get in and drive.

 

This came up, and for £550 it's now sat on my driveway:

 

82885b005ded22b8af38296402a1498f.jpg

 

The good:

 

Earlier D5 with 163bhp but no DPF nonsense

 

Decent spec with heated leather memory seats, air con AND sunroof, trip computer, fancy stereo, nice wheels etc.....and it all works!

 

It's had a recent timing belt

 

Test to next June

 

The bad

 

It will need at least two tyres very soon, but I should get another month out of them....

 

Bit of suspension clatter over bumps, sounds like droplinks however the V70 I had done the same and turned out to be a broken exhaust bracket. Will investigate soon.

 

Brakes need a bit of a shove. It could be I'm just used to the on/off switch that is the brake pedal in our i30, but will clean the calipers and bleed some fresh fluid through and see.

 

Bodywork a bit scraped and scruffy but £500 car. The worst is a crease / dent on the off side rear quarter:

 

de97ecd3599a65e471febd2b34542754.jpg

 

Can't see that being easy to pull out but again, £500 car.

 

The worst issue is the interior. It's bogging. Previous owner carried dogs in it, and smoked a bit too. It's just filthy and grimy but responded well enough to a quick session with baby wipes:

 

7bfb066a76e99784a5ef5c316deddf0b.jpg

 

It'll get a proper deep clean this week, my mate has a fancy Vax thing and he has kindly offered to give the carpets a run over.

 

Some trim bits will need replaced but I'll get to those in due course. Vax man frequents our local scrapyard and reckons there are a pile of S60s floating about that have decent interiors.

 

 

 

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That's a lot of car for the money. Well done sir.

Personally I just can't get on with the relative blandness of the centre consoles in this generation of Letter-hundred Volvos, hence why I've never had one. Even my current 2010 V70's centre console isn't 100% to my liking but fuck it - TEE SIX, YO!

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Have now done a couple of hundred miles in this. It's driving really well but the following things will need addressed:

1) there is an annoying clunking noise from somewhere. Originally I assumed drop links but I'm wondering if the exhaust is clattering against something. My P2 V70 needed an exhaust bracket with similar symptoms. Another common cause with these can be handbrake shoes. I'll have a look at these regardless as if you are really unlucky with a P2 V70/S60/S80 the shoes can delaminate and lock the rear wheels up.

2) I have a warning message for "Engine Service Required". I plugged my cheapo OBD scanner in and got the following codes:

9f8d6af269f2ddf85b03a65eae968132.jpg

190fd4acd5a207e77f5bce90d7fd6118.jpg

Not sure on the latter, but on the former the car is driving absolutely fine. Not down on power or missing. However I have a new fuel filter waiting to be fitted, I'll put that on tomorrow on the off chance the existing one is a bit clogged.

Tomorrow if it stops raining I'll fit all this plus an air filter:
14bffa2e3123334d80fbf359f5753c0b.jpg

Service history stops almost 30k miles ago so I'm guessing it's been ignored. Also when checking the oil level it's waaaay up the dipstick. It will be interesting to see how much oil comes out......I know the facelift D5 has a DPF, and the oil level can increase after a regen but no such witchcraft on this.

Also - does anyone know if this engine has an EGR? I may look at either cleaning it or bypassing in the name of preventative maintenance......

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So after a quick service, all the codes have buggered off. Great.

The oil pump I picked up in LIDL is great, however near the end the hose started developing loads of little leaks. I'm guessing it's just dried and cracked with age.

eba00a8ae4af355b6ea9a5b46415c614.jpg

Old oil looked great*

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I didn't have a big enough socket to remove the oil filter but these can be changed with a full sump so I'll blag a socket from a mate and do it tomorrow

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I also done the fuel filter, so stink of diesel. Yay!

Oh and I cleaned the engine a bit. Not a full vulgalor but better than it was

d3c97375af1ea221002a108445cddb3a.jpg

All the codes have buggered off now, we shall see if it remains thus. I suspect the new fuel filter has cured the low fuel pressure error.

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I was wondering if those Lidl oil pumps were much cop - after my most recent historical re-enactment of the Exxon Valdez disaster during a 'traditional' change of the black stuff, I'm figuring anything's worth a try for next time...

Tidy enough motor for £500! Had been idly thinking about an S80 the other month as @R9UKE had one up for sale around the same money... think that's an itch I'll have to scratch before long.

Be good to see how you get on with yours!

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I was wondering if those Lidl oil pumps were much cop - after my most recent historical re-enactment of the Exxon Valdez disaster during a 'traditional' change of the black stuff, I'm figuring anything's worth a try for next time...
Tidy enough motor for £500! Had been idly thinking about an S80 the other month as [mention=5127]R9UKE[/mention] had one up for sale around the same money... think that's an itch I'll have to scratch before long.
Be good to see how you get on with yours!
The sump plug was welded on - I would have liked to see how much if any was left after the pump had done it's job.

I was only able to put 6ltrs back in, these have a sump capacity of 6.5ltr. however bear in mind I haven't change the filter yet although I doubt that will be holding half a ltr.

Owners forum reckons you can rarely get 6.5ltr in even with a sump drop...

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That looks a cracking buy for £500.

I briefly owned a D5 S80 in this exact colour a few years back and before my Autoshite days, mine had done 274K when I sold it and showed no signs of dying but had been a builders car and didn't have one straight panel. After a few months of perpetual moaning from the wife I was forced to get it off the drive, it was great and I still regret giving in and moving it on, without any doubt the best diesel car I've ever driven.

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I ran a S60 D5 for two years some time ago and it was a great package. The D5 is a great engine when running right, but drives me nuts when it develops boost leaks (intercoolers like to go pop and boost leaks tend to develop elsewhere). The last D5 we had was a V70 from this parish and it did an amazing round trip from Yorkshire to Barcelona and on to Nice then back again. These old things are heavy on brakes and suspension bushings. Rear springs can snap at the ends, drop links wear out for fun and ARB bushes in particular go quickly, so look for clonks there. For £500 though you can't go wrong. The EGR valve is on the side of the engine next to the air box, blanking plates available on eBay. It's a good idea to check how much carbon crud has built up in the plenum at the front of the engine.

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I ran a S60 D5 for two years some time ago and it was a great package. The D5 is a great engine when running right, but drives me nuts when it develops boost leaks (intercoolers like to go pop and boost leaks tend to develop elsewhere). The last D5 we had was a V70 from this parish and it did an amazing round trip from Yorkshire to Barcelona and on to Nice then back again. These old things are heavy on brakes and suspension bushings. Rear springs can snap at the ends, drop links wear out for fun and ARB bushes in particular go quickly, so look for clonks there. For £500 though you can't go wrong. The EGR valve is on the side of the engine next to the air box, blanking plates available on eBay. It's a good idea to check how much carbon crud has built up in the plenum at the front of the engine.
I've actually ordered a blanking plate, so when that comes I'll give the pipework a good clean out and blank it off. It seems a lottery whether or not you end up with an emissions warning after fitting, some do some don't.

You can map the EGR out once the blanking plate is fitted but that's probably going to cost a good percentage of what I paid for the car it seems 200bhp / 400nm torque can be easily obtained at the same time too but to be honest its quick enough and I'd rather keep it reliable.

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Another little ‘feature’ to look out for on the 163 D5 is that they can develop leaks in the vacuum system that controls the turbo vane actuator and the engine mountings - one in front and one behind the engine. The quick check is to remove the oil filler cap whilst the engine is running and if there is a distinct ‘popping’ sound emanating from the cam box then it’s certain there’s a leak somewhere. The car will run OK like this but the lack of vacuum control can cause over-boost issues - I.e. blown intercooler.

This chap is a regular and reliable contributor to the Volvo forums and has provided several useful diagnostic videos for these early D5 models :

https://m.youtube.com/user/sirobb/videos

The D5 is an excellent diesel engine- ours has given very little trouble.

Squirrel2

 

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I scratched an itch with a 2.4 petrol S60 last year which was roffled after a month.  Had its good features (engine/seats) but the thing terrified me with its fault codes and potential to be a money pit.  I don't think you can run this type of car on a small budget for any length of time, no wonder they're disappearing.

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Tried an S60 in 2.5t guise and had a V70 in 2.4 auto both around 2006/7. Lovely big beige bus but as others say so much to go wrong it's scary. The D5 of that era is great and had amazing economy but didn't half vibrate. I found the throb just a bit much for me. Keep and eye on strut top mount bushings mine gave in twice and made it drive awful. Took loads of faff to figure it out.

Got rid of V70 in the end because of the autobox giving up with undiagnosable vibration left me with what felt likw blue thumb it was so bad.

S80/S60/V70/XC90/Mondeo parts can be interchangeable. Useful for scrappers.

The S80 in V8 is the holy Grail of big saloons in my opinion but never had the knackers or dosh for one.

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We had a V70 back in the dark and distant past and I loved it but at just over 100,000 miles EVERYTHING started to go wrong with it and it had definitely been looked after. The central locking did the 'bouncing' thing, the gearbox (auto naturally) was slurring into gears and dropping into neutral when stationary, the dashboard was playng up... Other than that it was a great car but the front suspension had wear in some componenet that made it handle VERY STRANGELY above about 50mph but that was cheap to sort out.

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Those Lidl pumps are excellent, drained out my Leon of a full tank of Derv with no users l issues, looking forward to trying it out on an oil change next.

Must admit I've always liked these. Watched one go through Leominster car auctions about 10 years ago and wondered why nobody was bidding on it, looked clean enough, nice spec etc. It was struggling to make £800 which was at least half it's value back then. Took a quick look inside and it was on exactly 300k!!!!!

Still looked solid, no real wear etc.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Owned this three weeks today. In that time I've done a shade under 1600 miles, partly due to a mahoosive project at work.

It hasn't used a drop of oil or water. In fact it hasn't even lost a single psi from any of its tyres. The temperature gauge has never ventured over the halfway mark and nothing has stopped working.

It covers miles ridiculously easily. A lot of those miles have been on badly surfaced twisty country roads but it just shrugs everything off.

Only minor snags - bit of a rattle which sounds like drop links and the two engine torque mounts are a bit knackered. Oh and the wiper blades are showing their age.......and the rear plate is annoying me - it's mounted too low (should be more central in the aperture).....and that's it!

Returning 48mpg too!0231a69cc8d5a9df71a5d45a5bf4a5e9.jpg70220aa8112fc18e9c70df7d5e8a87a3.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Time for an update.

My in tank fuel pump failed. It was my own fault, I had been ignoring it getting louder and louder until it just stopped.

I was driving into a carpark at the time, and was able to coast into a space, so no terrible inconvenience.

Now on these earlier euro3 D5s the in tank pump doesn't run all the time - at motorway speeds for instance you can rely on the high pressure pump to keep supplying fuel. The problem is you do need it to prime the system and get the car started.

I left the car for two hours, theory being the pump would cool down and hopefully un-sieze itself. Thankfully I was correct and it pumped but very very slowly. It struggled to start but it did, so I just entered SVM mode and engaged GLF, my theory being keeping the revs up would keep diesel flowing.

It was touch and go. Every dithering idiot driver appeared in my path meaning roundabouts and junctions were butt clenching as the mighty Volvo shuddered and coughed but we made it the ten miles home.

So how much is a new pump? Anywhere from £150-£300. Feck that.

PartsForVolvo sent me this for £40:

c68289f7d9b4a3323845e118ea7c5963.jpg

What's in there??? Well it's a kit to fit a generic 28mm fuel pump to the Volvo housing. To be fair I could have got the contents of the box for half the price if I'd bought them elsewhere but nevermind.
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Time to have some fun:

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You can see there are two access panels. The lower one on the passenger side has the fuel level sensor. The higher one on the driver's side has the pump itself. Both need to be removed because the feed pipe for the pump runs to the sender side - this is due to the shape of the tank, it has a hump in the middle to accommodate the exhaust and without this feed pipe fuel from the passenger side would never be accessible.

The clever thing to do is attach string to the feed pipe on the sender side before withdrawing it all with the pump. I am not clever, and much regret was had later on refitting.

So pump housing removed8bb2e78aef802f981db8bed95e2b0fff.jpg

Started stripping to replace the pump itself and stopped taking pics because diesel hands

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Suffice to say this was extremely fiddly, and hot air had to be employed to remove some of the pipes. There is a plastic bodied filter that doesn't fit the new pump, hence the hacksaw to remove it from the filter housing. This then allowed me to use the generic pop on filter bag that came with the kit.

So fitting is the reversal of removal, unless you are a complete fuckwit and pulled the feed pipe out without leaving some means to pull it back through again. It sounds simple but has a convoluted route to the other side, and no other way for it to go and kept jamming.

This took fapping hours to sort, eventually I was able to feed some copper brake line across and used that to pull the pipe round. I still smell of diesel, horrible stuff. And that's with wearing gloves and gauntlets and all sorts to protect my delicate desk jockey skin.

Now there is a theory that constantly running these cars low on fuel (and low as in less than 1/4 to 1/2 a tank!) Means the pump isn't submerged in fuel and overheats. I have a habit of just lobbing £20 in every time the OBC says "you have zero miles left".

So I started as I mean to go on. This caused me much pain:b048071c968d325ab643f6ffa9d77c0c.jpg

This is daft as I set aside fuel money for the month anyway, so putting in a full tank vs lots of top ups isn't going to actually cost me any more over the month, but somehow whacking in £20 every few days doesn't feel so terrible.

However this exposed a problem. I've always nicknamed my Volvo P2s as super tankers due to the turning circle. Now this one has cemented that name and gone full on Exxon Valdez, and left an almighty puddle on my driveway.

What you will only discover afterwards is that the seal for the sender unit can't really be reused. You need to fit a new one, which only seems to be available for the absurd price of £20 or so. For a fecking O-ring.

On removing the seat again I was met with a puddle of diesel over the sender unit. Fuck sticks. The problem is compounded further because the sender unit is at a low point on the tank. Removing it completely to sort the seal would have litres of horrible smelly diesel flooding the driveway. Yay.

I've managed to tighten the locking ring enough to bring the leak down to a small seep which can be absorbed with rags. The plan is to manage it this way until the tank has been used up, by which stage the new O-ring will be here.

As a motorcyclist I'm well aware of how lethal diesel spills are so I wouldn't be using the car if I wasn't confident no diesel was reaching the road! I check underneath before and after every journey just to be sure and the tank seems to be bone dry. My neighbors probably think I'm a cop now. (It's something they have to check every morning over here - scumbags have form for putting car bombs under cops cars at home)

To celebrate having a running car again I done this:0ac960aadd62b8ad6e94bd942ec248dc.jpg

"Sorry mate tyre is fucked can't repair, and you've another one on the way out" two tyres then ffs

So to celebrate that I done this yesterday:

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Caught it on next doors garage wall trying to park tightly against it on our driveway like a prick.

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That pump job does indeed look fiddly, I’ve been lucky with my D5 S60 in the last 6 years and 60,000 miles in that nothing has gone wrong, it’s been serviced annually and the only parts that have worn and needed replacing are 3 brake callipers and both front lower suspension arms.

I was finding it had an appetite for tyres in particular front ones, about a year ago I upped the fronts too 42 psi and rears to 40 and this has solved the issue.

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That pump job does indeed look fiddly, I’ve been lucky with my D5 S60 in the last 6 years and 60,000 miles in that nothing has gone wrong, it’s been serviced annually and the only parts that have worn and needed replacing are 3 brake callipers and both front lower suspension arms.
I was finding it had an appetite for tyres in particular front ones, about a year ago I upped the fronts too 42 psi and rears to 40 and this has solved the issue.
Replacing like for like would have been relatively quick and easy, but I'm a skinflint and baulked at the idea of either £300 for a genuine Volvo or £150 for one that probably just has the same cheap 28mm pump I've fitted.

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