rainagain Posted August 7, 2019 Author Share Posted August 7, 2019 No worries, thanks for getting back to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Its worth investigating if the 1st stage cooling fan works, unfortunately if the AC isnt working it will be hard to test unless you have some diagnostic equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted August 7, 2019 Author Share Posted August 7, 2019 Yeah I’ve heard the resistor nearly always fails on the first speed. A guy a work is into his BMWs so I’m going to ask him to bring his diag kit in and give it a once over. I did notice when plugged my meter in to get the temp it was showing open circuit in one of the lambda probe heaters. But this isn’t bringing on the eml. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispian_J_Hotson Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 These lumps haven't got porous heads or some other similar technological advancement* like that have they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 53 minutes ago, rainagain said: Yeah I’ve heard the resistor nearly always fails on the first speed. A guy a work is into his BMWs so I’m going to ask him to bring his diag kit in and give it a once over. I did notice when plugged my meter in to get the temp it was showing open circuit in one of the lambda probe heaters. But this isn’t bringing on the eml. It wont show on general check, you will have to tell the car to put on first stage fan to check if it works. I fitted a cheapo resistor from ebay and now the car only has high speed fan even on stage one, but this isnt a big enough problem to warrant me doing it again, its just noisy from the outside when the A/C is used as fan is always running fast. I bought this one for reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-Fan-Motor-Switch-Resistor-17117541092R-For-MINI-Cooper-R50-R52-R53-UK/382989762889?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 , so it might be worth spending a few quid more for one that works. rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 3 minutes ago, BoggyMires said: These lumps haven't got porous heads or some other similar technological advancement* like that have they? Notorious for it, but how much of that is caused by people not changing the coolant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince70 Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I think the porous head problems were on the early examples (I have a very early one but it doesn’t use a drop). The expansion tank is normally the first call as they are known to leak on the seam and the design was changed on a yearly basis but never cured on the R50. But your Mini looks an absolute bargain as I’ve never seen a late one with that lowish mileage that cheap and the added bonus yours has the getrag gearbox and I think the gearbox alone is worth the money. rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robson3022 Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 7 hours ago, Vince70 said: I think the porous head problems were on the early examples (I have a very early one but it doesn’t use a drop). The expansion tank is normally the first call as they are known to leak on the seam and the design was changed on a yearly basis but never cured on the R50. But your Mini looks an absolute bargain as I’ve never seen a late one with that lowish mileage that cheap and the added bonus yours has the getrag gearbox and I think the gearbox alone is worth the money. Please don’t say this ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 I’m not out of the woods just yet. I still don’t know why it went from max to min the day I took it to work. Today it was treated to a full flush and new actual coolant rather than just water. I also found out the horrific rattling noise is due to the rear heat shield being detached and lying on the exhaust. I’ve got this to look at as well as the lack of hand brake function on the near side wheel. Robson3022 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 these can be an absolute cnut to bleed i used to fill the sodding system using a smoll funnel through the bleed screw on drivers side rainagain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 I finally worked out where the coolant was leaking from. I noticed some white deposits round the seam in the coolant bottle, then one day I was waiting in a queue before I returned home. As I soon as I got home I lifted the bonnet and saw that coolant was leaking out of the coolant bottle seam. mods can you please move this into the general section. Split_Pin and Vince70 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 I noticed the handling was a bit ‘interesting’ going round right hand bends. It would corner ok then it felt like it suddenly lost grip. I had a look at the tyres. There two run flats on one side which were over eight years old and two random tyres on the other. They all had an alright amount of tread on them. I decided to splash out on a set of decent tyres and ordered four Yokohamas. I was amazed at the state of the old tyres when there were removed. cracked sidewall another cracked sidewall this one has been run whilst low on pressure you can see the amount of rubber that fell out and how soft the sidewall was Craig the Princess and Split_Pin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Did you ditch the run flats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Yep, everyone online says they just make it ride crap. Vince70 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 15 minutes ago, rainagain said: Yep, everyone online says they just make it ride crap. What's your opinion? Noticable? Although I guess with the state of your old ones anything would be lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Better in every way, comfort, noise, grip but as you say that could well be more to do with the state of the tyres I took off. Split_Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 my next job was sorting the non working hand brake on the n/s wheel, it was pretty obvious what was wrong with it, this bit should be attached to the end of the cable: I then had to remove the old cable Split_Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 This was a total **** of a job as the cable had well in truly become part of the aluminum caliper thanks to dissimilar metal corrosion. I first cut the cable flush with the caliper I then tried to use a cold chisel to knock it out I then tried my Aldi air saw to try and cut a slot in it, but the saw blades just rounded off. I thought the outer must have been made from some really hard steel until I tried a jigsaw on it, turns out the Aldi air saw blades are really really soft. the jigsaw made some nice cuts. Which let me tap out the remains Looking at the times on the photos removing this stupid cable end took me over an hour and a half. Split_Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 To replace the cable you're supposed to drop the exhaust system and remove the heat shields, I managed to remove the bolts holding them on and then bend them out of the way enough to slide in the new cable. Removing the old one involves removing the console round the hand brake and punching out a small metal clip the holds the end of the cable. The HBOL says to slide a certain sized tube over it to disengage the clips I couldn't find a suitable tube but I managed to pop them off with a long screw driver. Split_Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 The rear discs had some strange bumps on then, like they'd gone rusty. These bumps were causing the car to jerk as it slowed down. I ordered a new set of discs and pads from ebay. Both rear disc screws had been sheared off by someone in the past so I chucked wheel bolts in to make sure they were sitting square. The holes in the piston were too small for my wind back tool, luckily I managed to get them back in using a c clamp and some needle nose pliers to push. Split_Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 The calipers had corroded around the rubber sleeves meaning the guide pins were sticking, I had to push out the rubber sleeves and and then run a round file around the hole to remove the aluminium corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New POD Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 On 2/2/2020 at 8:49 AM, rainagain said: I finally worked out where the coolant was leaking from. I noticed some white deposits round the seam in the coolant bottle, then one day I was waiting in a queue before I returned home. As I soon as I got home I lifted the bonnet and saw that coolant was leaking out of the coolant bottle seam. mods can you please move this into the general section. The thermostat housing will eventually warp a little and leak too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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