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Pete (986 Boxster) the Porsche


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Good progress made. Got the rear end airborne once more and supported on axle stands. Removed the alloy gearbox cover panel thingy and rear anti-roll bar which allows pretty decent access to the inner CV joint and securing stud.  :)


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My newest tool purchase came in handy for this very job as I'd thought it might. Use turn the wrench manual like to break to the stud free and then zip it out/free with the leccy motor. ZZzzzzzzz. I was there myself, so the only effort was hauling myself out from underneath Pete, fnar fnar, releasing the awesome handbrake, turning the wheel to expose the next two studs, rinse and repeat. I had taken the extra precaution of applying penetrating oil to the exposed part of the stud threads prior to doing anything.  ?

Pretty damn soon, the bastid thing was free and could be rested on a spare axle stand ready for the next stage which is removing the CV joint itself....  :scratchchin:

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Just call me Juan the Porscheio Mechanico.    :rolleyes:

But to be honest, the access still isn't brilliant. I can't move the CV joint forward as it fouls the lower suspension arm. It moves better to the rear of the car, until it fouls the exhaust. With that removed the access would be heap plenty. But just look at the state of the studs which connect the front pipe/manifold to the cat'.  :jaw-dropping: That way lies danger...

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Mamma mia...

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Inner CV joint came off (just) without removing the zorzt. Winning!

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After gearbox oil, CV is my least favourite stuff. Boak and it gets everywhere, much blue roll being/will be used up.

 

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Next step is getting the outer drive shaft nut orf, which is torqued to 340Nm, apparently, and then I can whip the entire drive shaft out and get it fully cleaned and prepared for the new inner and outer boots which are ordered. I'll also maybe need to order a new drive shaft nut as I think they're one time use only....

Getting there though. ?

 

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Just looking at changing the gearbox oil while I'm underneath Pete.  :highfive:  However, special tool alert for the drain plug. I'll be sure and check I can actually achieve removal of the 'fill plug' before going any further.  Plain old 17mm hex for that bastid.  :thumbsup:

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£5.95 from eBay from a seller in Motherwell. ???????

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took a break from this until today. Decided to change out the drop links while I was there... Top link was totally seized into the strut, securing nut came off easy, but it wouldn't budge from the strut. Snapped off the bar and lower end exposing the 17mm inner nut. Removed all the ABS sensor wiring to save it getting melted and set about it with the heat gun and impact gun. After the third or fourth damn good heating and working back and forward with the breaker bar, it rattled free and out with the impact. Yah!  First properly seized bolt I've come across.

Then set about changing the gearbox oil. Once the fill plug was free, new speshul tool made removing the drain plug easy enough. Old oil didn't look too bad until it was compared with new 75w 90 semi-synth. Takes 2.25 litres. Bought 3L from the local petrol station for £8.99 a litre. Decent. Filling is the usual faff, as access isn't great, ended up filling with a 90ml syringe which took a while but resulted in minimal wastage and mess. New oil is like fine wine that smells, horrible....

Then set about the drivesaft and was just about to fit the new boots, but decided to check the securing thread on the hub end of the shaft by prefitting the securing nut. Bastid thing won't go on as the thread is damaged. Shyte. I've since had it in the vice and tried to wind the nut on, but it's jamming up solid. Nuts.

Looks like a replacement shaft is needed after all. Just bought one on eBay from Steve Strange, £48.50 delivered.  All going well I should be able to clean that bugger up, fit the new boots and refit on Sunday?  ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

New shaft arrived and was as described. The boots looked okay, but as I had new yins in stock, they were going on. Only issue was the inner CV was tight as feck on the shaft, had to be hammered off and back on. Rebuilt shaft with new boots and then by jacking up/compressing the spring, that created just enough room to get the shaft located on the wheel hub and tightended up and then the inner CV bolted into the gearbox. God I hate CV grease. Horrible stuff that gets everywhere!

Once that was done I could refit the anti roll bar, refit the alloy gearbox guard thing with many nuts, fit and tighten the new drop link on that side, re-connect the ABS loom at the strut, fit the wheel, jack it up at both sides and remove the axle stands and finally, it's back on all four wheels. No photos, sorry. Battery was flat, think the boot or frunk light had drained it down, so on recharge overnight.

Should be ready for its MOT now....

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  • 3 weeks later...

That's Pete dropped off for MOT at 3:00pm. The long wait begins... ?

Bastid ABS light came on again, arrrrggg! Front left speed sensor DTC cleared while in the MOT station car park and fingers crossed. ? Bloody annoying as the sensor live data shows the sensor is working reading vehicle speed as are the other three. Bloody German cars. Also asked them to tighten the driveshaft nut as it needs to be 360lbft or 460Nm. Mega fecking tight!

 

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Yah dancer it's a pass for wee Pete the Boxta!. ? ? ? ? ?

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • Offside Front Suspension rod ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Front Inner Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
  • Offside Front Inner Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
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