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Pete (986 Boxster) the Porsche


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Good progress made. Got the rear end airborne once more and supported on axle stands. Removed the alloy gearbox cover panel thingy and rear anti-roll bar which allows pretty decent access to the inner CV joint and securing stud.  :)


My newest tool purchase came in handy for this very job as I'd thought it might. Use turn the wrench manual like to break to the stud free and then zip it out/free with the leccy motor. ZZzzzzzzz. I was there myself, so the only effort was hauling myself out from underneath Pete, fnar fnar, releasing the awesome handbrake, turning the wheel to expose the next two studs, rinse and repeat. I had taken the extra precaution of applying penetrating oil to the exposed part of the stud threads prior to doing anything.  ?

Pretty damn soon, the bastid thing was free and could be rested on a spare axle stand ready for the next stage which is removing the CV joint itself....  :scratchchin:


Just call me Juan the Porscheio Mechanico.    :rolleyes:

But to be honest, the access still isn't brilliant. I can't move the CV joint forward as it fouls the lower suspension arm. It moves better to the rear of the car, until it fouls the exhaust. With that removed the access would be heap plenty. But just look at the state of the studs which connect the front pipe/manifold to the cat'.  :jaw-dropping: That way lies danger...


Mamma mia...

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Inner CV joint came off (just) without removing the zorzt. Winning!


After gearbox oil, CV is my least favourite stuff. Boak and it gets everywhere, much blue roll being/will be used up.



Next step is getting the outer drive shaft nut orf, which is torqued to 340Nm, apparently, and then I can whip the entire drive shaft out and get it fully cleaned and prepared for the new inner and outer boots which are ordered. I'll also maybe need to order a new drive shaft nut as I think they're one time use only....

Getting there though. ?


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Just looking at changing the gearbox oil while I'm underneath Pete.  :highfive:  However, special tool alert for the drain plug. I'll be sure and check I can actually achieve removal of the 'fill plug' before going any further.  Plain old 17mm hex for that bastid.  :thumbsup:


£5.95 from eBay from a seller in Motherwell. ???????

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took a break from this until today. Decided to change out the drop links while I was there... Top link was totally seized into the strut, securing nut came off easy, but it wouldn't budge from the strut. Snapped off the bar and lower end exposing the 17mm inner nut. Removed all the ABS sensor wiring to save it getting melted and set about it with the heat gun and impact gun. After the third or fourth damn good heating and working back and forward with the breaker bar, it rattled free and out with the impact. Yah!  First properly seized bolt I've come across.

Then set about changing the gearbox oil. Once the fill plug was free, new speshul tool made removing the drain plug easy enough. Old oil didn't look too bad until it was compared with new 75w 90 semi-synth. Takes 2.25 litres. Bought 3L from the local petrol station for £8.99 a litre. Decent. Filling is the usual faff, as access isn't great, ended up filling with a 90ml syringe which took a while but resulted in minimal wastage and mess. New oil is like fine wine that smells, horrible....

Then set about the drivesaft and was just about to fit the new boots, but decided to check the securing thread on the hub end of the shaft by prefitting the securing nut. Bastid thing won't go on as the thread is damaged. Shyte. I've since had it in the vice and tried to wind the nut on, but it's jamming up solid. Nuts.

Looks like a replacement shaft is needed after all. Just bought one on eBay from Steve Strange, £48.50 delivered.  All going well I should be able to clean that bugger up, fit the new boots and refit on Sunday?  ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

New shaft arrived and was as described. The boots looked okay, but as I had new yins in stock, they were going on. Only issue was the inner CV was tight as feck on the shaft, had to be hammered off and back on. Rebuilt shaft with new boots and then by jacking up/compressing the spring, that created just enough room to get the shaft located on the wheel hub and tightended up and then the inner CV bolted into the gearbox. God I hate CV grease. Horrible stuff that gets everywhere!

Once that was done I could refit the anti roll bar, refit the alloy gearbox guard thing with many nuts, fit and tighten the new drop link on that side, re-connect the ABS loom at the strut, fit the wheel, jack it up at both sides and remove the axle stands and finally, it's back on all four wheels. No photos, sorry. Battery was flat, think the boot or frunk light had drained it down, so on recharge overnight.

Should be ready for its MOT now....

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  • 3 weeks later...

That's Pete dropped off for MOT at 3:00pm. The long wait begins... ?

Bastid ABS light came on again, arrrrggg! Front left speed sensor DTC cleared while in the MOT station car park and fingers crossed. ? Bloody annoying as the sensor live data shows the sensor is working reading vehicle speed as are the other three. Bloody German cars. Also asked them to tighten the driveshaft nut as it needs to be 360lbft or 460Nm. Mega fecking tight!


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Yah dancer it's a pass for wee Pete the Boxta!. ? ? ? ? ?

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • Offside Front Suspension rod ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Front Inner Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
  • Offside Front Inner Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
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  • 1 year later...

Slight update; Lockdown. FF to May 2022, Boxta needs MOT still. Book into local National for a quick wipe down and check over discount MOT, it's bound to pass right?

Failed on emmissions pish, lamda reading was +1. Needs a new O2 sensor M9, you have 7 days for retest.

No it doesn't. The exhaust is leaking at the joins as all the clamps are now 22 years old and somewhat past their best. I do the right thing, buy a new set of, them all, £85 and ask my local indy to change them, please, five minute job, shirley. Takes him 15mins per ruined expanded bolt to remove and is generally retold as a ballache of a job, but it's done, you have yer MOT, now come and get your car, here's the bill.

Happy days as it's running better, pulling stronger, using a little less fuel and doesn't issue a death rattle on start up like it used to, that was the cold exhaust rattling it seems, I thought they all did that, sir. 


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That done, but what next? The car drives well, but it's obvious the supension is also past it's best at 150k and 22 years. A pal used to say that most cars shockers are done by 50k and that most driver just don't notice and those that do, allow for it. He wasn't wrong and the way the Boxster pitches and rollls about on the road, something had to give.

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Cars I've had previously, you'd be looking at struts up front and simple swap out shocks on the rear. Not on a Boxster, struts alround. So having shopped around for four new struts, the choice was made and the work got under way.  WCPGW?

The plan was, to remove the strut by removing the lower suspension arms, track rod end etc and then free the 150k strut from the wheel hub and mount, as Tommy Cooper said, just like that!



The truth was, the first part went well until I tried to remove the strut pinch bolt which is also the top front drop link mounting bolt. It was seized solid. Only way to move forward was to remove the strut and hub from the motor and attack it on the bench with great vengance and furious anger.

That involved removing said drop link with a hammer! Getting a blow torch on the alloy mounting and gently heating it up to, quite hot and then rattling the 17mm bolt end for all my little impact driver was worth. After a while, it started turning, then spinning and was finally easily chapped out of its langhame.




Nothing to see here, gov. Other than that strut which had to be hammered out of its mount and it didn't give up without a fight!




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41 minutes ago, horriblemercedes said:

I feel your pain! I've had all of these problems on mine. Luckily now it's all done, I'm hoping I don't have to do them again for quite a while! 

Not so much a problems as, age related maintenance. Upside is very little corrosion present, which as we know is far worse and far more terminal on cars of a similar age, c.2000. Saying that, will be getting Lanoguarded underneath shortly!

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Hit another snag. The lower stop plate/washer is fixed to the old strut, non removeable. I've had to order two that will fit the new struts in at 25 quid each. Genuine Porsche parts/washers are £50 each! #Porschetax. Should be ready to get it rebuilt at the weekend.

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All the parts arrived pretty quickly, so today, this happened. Phil that works with us gave a hand, we didn't bother/need the spring compressors to refit the springs, just put it together and used pure muscle and man power to get the securing nut on and then nipped them both up.  :thumbsup:

I took the chance to lash on two coats o' Lanoguard on everything, except the calipers, natch!  :beer:

Should all going well, be back on its wheels and out for a road-test tomorrow night. Hope so.




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14 minutes ago, Hawkeyethenoo said:

Houston, we have a mission critical issue. Please advise WTF is going on here, over....


Hello Hawkeyethenoo. We have looked into your mission critical issue and we can confirm you're an baws oot idiot. You bought two left hand side drop links. Houston, over and out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This finally happened today. Drivers side completed, N/S getting done in the morning. Brembo pads and discs are lovely things, as are the calipers, so much better than normal shyte on normal cages.  :salute:

And yes those are brand new wheel bolts, the alloy spacers on the old ones were corroded and falling to bits and eating into the wheel.






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It's finished, well it's not, brakes need bled, initial pedal feel is a little soft, and the gap between the backing plates and the disc is almost zero and since I was battering it about on the bench it's now touching the O/S disc. I tried to fettle the bastard but it's still touching. Knew I should have hacked it off.  Anyway, musn't grumble.  The ABS is fixed, light goes right out once moving and stays out. Must have been a slight connection issue with the front wheel speed sensors. Yah!






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