project Fumbler's Crocks- Boring Oil Change

[Crackers]

3 hours ago, Fumbler said:

I have shed envy.

[Split_Pin]

5 hours ago, Fumbler said:

Oh look another oil change. Suspension set to high.

Then I worked really quickly because I didn't put any axle stands under it. DON'T FOLLOW MY EXAMPLE! I VERY BAD PERSON.

The oil was suspiciously black and the filter was definitely older than 6 month-old oil. I doubt any new oil was put in it after the sump was pulled and cleaned, as in, the old oil was drained and dumped straight back in when all was said and done. The (incredibly tight) filter was also much larger than what's supposed to be on there, alas I didn't take any pictures of it. The new one fitted much better.

This is the new oil. Citroen recommends only two weights: 10W-40 or 15W-40 for all-year use, so I went with the latter. Bunged 3.2L in, let engine build pressure, drove it about, came back, topped up until full. Job jobbed. No suspicious leaks or anything left on the floor after the car was driven out. Excellent.

Now, what to do with all this oil?

We separated it into the different grades:

And then decanted the separate grades into the containers with the least oil in them. Through doing this I don't need to buy any extra oil for the Micra! Winning already. The only odd one out we had was this 5W-40 semi synth oil which we couldn't combine with anything, so instead I'll use it with the bar and chain oil I bought to undercoat the BX.

 

It's funny how you can accumulate oil like that isn't it! Usually means at least 1 'free' oil change per year! (Pending filter of course)

[Fumbler]

Just now, Split_Pin said:

It's funny how you can accumulate oil like that isn't it! Usually means at least 1 'free' oil change per year! (Pending filter of course)

Yep! Was fortunate enough to have enough oil for nearly two light services on the Micra. With a quality filter, that's a roughly £10.00 in all. One very cheap oil change!

[Fumbler]

I replaced 4 emergency lights at the unit. The old ones were last inspected in 1993 which was, er, when they were installed. Cue batteries being flatter than a witch's tit.

It turns out that a new fitting is cheaper than a new battery. As with the lights, not much has changed in the unit since being constructed in 1993. It's rather lovely in a way. I also got zapped on the wrong side of a light's power supply. I wasn't concentrating and forgot to isolate the mains. Remember, kids, don't dawdle and be stupid at the same time!

So after getting electrocuted and gaining superpowerz I can safely say the cars are being Ans Cars. For example, the Micra has buzzed along the roads as the Micra always does, without fault as always. The BX has been showing off its mahoosive cargo space by swallowing a strimmer with the seats up. Marvellous, but I was eager to get it out again so I didn't take any pictures. It needs a wash. Badly.

A few things to do in earnest, mainly cosmetic but I've got the pedal box to fix, sort a brake hose which is rubbing the NSF wheel on full lock, rustproofing and making sure I filled it up with enough oil.

[Fumbler]

So the BX works and is competant at being a car, but for how long? It's always crossed my mind but I doubt I'll need to worry considering someone at some point took exeptionally good care of it. However, its main bugbear is the fact that it's a Citroen BX that has only just recently been resurrected and then pressed into use. I've had more than my fair share of fun with it and I have made it somewhat reliable to start and run at superearly O'clock, hot O'clock and afternoonafterworkhasfinished O'clock. Basically, I've made it a usable An Car. It's transported all my shit from college and is absolutely sublime on the motorway. I've definitely scratched my BX itch which I've had afor a long time, however, I cannot keep it this winter.

I hope to get my use out of it this summer, get it to over 100,000 miles, and then it'll be up for sale. It'll have a replacement -I rather like two cars and I can afford it- which will be a similar size but will be mechnically simpler. I want something I'll be able to use during the winter along with the Micra without too much worry that something complicated will fail It's absolutely cracking in every way but I'm not skilled enough to be able to change hoses or pipework in the space of a weekend and, if it breaks down at college, I am well and truly snookered. The BX is absolutely cracking as a car and I have complete faith it'll continue to do so for the next person.

[DSdriver]

Saabs are very nice, we now have two - both older than modern Vauxhall stuff of course.

[Fumbler]

Yay. I'll weld the Micra's sill in a couple weeks and once I get the MIG welder up and running.

Anyway, the real reason for the post is that, at the same time of the MoT, I also replaced the broken steering rack gaiter on the BX.

It was horrible.

Very horrible.

No, really. Here's a picture!

I dread to think what changing one on larger engined models are like. I nearly had to break my wrists so they could fit in and perform the work.

So, step 1 was to lift the vehicle to get the wheels off. Very stressy because I don't trust the sills and there's conflicting advice.

I used the rear mounts for the front subframe in the end. The good news is that the body is rust-free, and I mean it. It's almost as good as the Micra which is 8 years younger and has 20% the mileage. That's a win in my book!

We've got new front brake pads too. Eggshellent.

After inspecting the area for how I'd go about working on it, I broke out the big guns.

And set to work getting the track rod end off

I then spent an hour getting the track rod end off. Barely any access to get a 12mm spanner on the rack balljoint to keep it from moving, and even less room for a 19mm spanner to free off the stop nut thing . I ended up wedging the 12mm spanner on the subrame which made life easier. The reason why it was a real ballache was because I did it completely wrong, as per usual! What I should have done was loosen the 19mm nut when the track rod end was still installed, then unbolt it and unscrew it from the rack balljoint. Other cars make this a lot easier by making the track rod end really tiny and the threaded shaft from the rack really long, but Citroen went with a long one instead for maximum confidence withdrawal.

I got it off with my trousers becoming casualty to the oily filth that's everywhere.

Great rustproofing, just not on my trousers, please!

This is the old gaiter. The wheel side section was cracked and split open. Quite a bit of water poured out of it too, erps.

No harm done, though, because everywhere is coated in grease. Phew! I repacked the balljoint and added some more grease to the rack gear before fannying around with the new gaiter.

And what a fannyfest it was (not literally)! I took no pictures, but it required slipping the boot over the rack housing, which is larger than the gaiter. This means I need to stretch it over. Simple, yes? Of course not. It wouldn't be French otherwise. On the top you've got an engine on one side and the heater hoses in the other restricting your movement. On the underside, the subframe is in the way and the hard pipes for the front hydraulics conveniently use up all the other free space up there. There's no way I'm getting it over from underneath. BUT WAIT! IT GETS BETTER!

OK, it's now installed, yes, but, see what's near the top of the picture? That's a guard plat for the steering wheel flex plate. Can I remove it? Sure I can, if I also disconnect a rod linkage that has a pivot and support ON THE GUARD ITSELF! MARVELLOUS! Oh how I laughed as I got cut up and bruised as I was fighting against the edges of the guard and strething the boot over. I managed to succeed when I decided to wedge an Allen key in between the rack housing and gaiter, so I could then twist the gaiter round and *POP* on it goes. Some zipties later and we're done.

I got rather* grumpy at this point having spent around 3 hours on the bastard. I aligned the wheels best I could (I did mark where it was originally, but it was so caked in grease and muck, the paint just rubbed off when sliding the gaiter over), but I'll pay to get it done professionally. That should help make the steering wheel a bit more centred. It's never been right, but I haven't made the situation any better and I'd rather not have weird tyre wear. I removed the front wheeltrims as the wheelbolts hold them in. I'll get the rear ones off tomorrow with any luck.

 

[Fumbler]

The BX is now incontinent

...only when it lowers, though. Drips are coming off the nearside strut, so has the return line popped it's clogs?

[dean36014]

Very good chance it's the return line. Might just need the end trimming back and refitted if you're lucky. Just done the exact same steering rack on my bx 1.7td.  To be fair it went quite well, biggest hassle was getting the original factory clip off and in again. Thirty years for the original gaiter doesn't seem bad to me, I bet the new one I fitted doesn't last more than two.  

[Fumbler]

45 minutes ago, dean36014 said:

Very good chance it's the return line. Might just need the end trimming back and refitted if you're lucky. Just done the exact same steering rack on my bx 1.7td.  To be fair it went quite well, biggest hassle was getting the original factory clip off and in again. Thirty years for the original gaiter doesn't seem bad to me, I bet the new one I fitted doesn't last more than two.  

Oh good. Any idea what these clips look like before I accidentally break mine?

[dean36014]

I meant the steering rack clip, a metal spring affair. The strut returns are held into the strut with a special clip, possible to remove it without a special tool though apparently. Not had to replace one yet.

[Fumbler]

13 minutes ago, dean36014 said:

I meant the steering rack clip, a metal spring affair. The strut returns are held into the strut with a special clip, possible to remove it without a special tool though apparently. Not had to replace one yet.

Yeah some reading has shown the same. Citroen, in their generosity, still have clips and the return hose assembly in stock.

 

I have a few options for this:
1.
I can rather easily replace the split hose with silicone hose, using some nylon or copper pipe as a barb to secure the new hose on. I can do this in situ when I have a goodly amount of time.

2. Buy new stuff from Chevronics/Citroen, depending on who's the most affordable. Maximum peace of mind.

3. Degrease the split, apply Sugru, then seld-amalgamating tape, then more Sugru. Return pipes shouldn't be under pressure from what I read. If they are, the strut is on the verge of failure, which mine isn't.

I think you'll know what option I'm taking first!

[Rust Collector]

29 minutes ago, Fumbler said:

I think you'll know what option I'm taking first!

Time to break out the tape and glue, there's no fix more permanent than a temporary one! Just ask my Mitsubishi and it'll back that claim up 😅

[Fumbler]

6 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

Time to break out the tape and glue, there's no fix more permanent than a temporary one! Just ask my Mitsubishi and it'll back that claim up 😅

Indeed. I'm fairly confident it'll work as people have done it for leak-off lines at the reservoir. They found that the repairs are still holding strong 5+ years later.

[Fumbler]

I've asked around, but to no response thus far, so I'll ask here as well. How drivable is the car with this fault? I'm taking the Micra to work but the BX in in good need of petrol and I'd like to test drive it following fixing the ignition timing. Sufficed to say when I started it yesterday evening and this morning, it took a couple cranks and it was going well.

[Fumbler]

Well there's yer problem!

Vent pipe and return completely sheared off. The vent has been tucked out the way for a while and is dry as a bone. The return has only just popped. I can still repair this OK but this was slightly unexpected!

[Fumbler]

Did this bodge on Tuesday evening. Apart from needing to reconnect the bodge after any type of journey, the weeing has stopped. Now I'm waiting on some Sugru to arrive so I can make the bodge less bodged.

Meanwhile, adjusting the ignition timing currectly has FINALLY fixed the engine cold start problem. This probably means changing the jets and emulsion tube was a useless exercise but, you know, it's character building, isn't it?

What this has presented, though, is an issue with starting hot. I suppose it's time to play a little game of "what component is fucking me over this time?"!

Is it:

• The nasty looking coil,
• The new ignition module has already broken,
• Fuel evaporating from the bowl (which sounds unlikely as the car won't reestart after filling up with petrol)?

Answers on a thruppeny bit please.

[LightBulbFun]

31 minutes ago, Fumbler said:

Is it:

• The nasty looking coil,
• The new ignition module has already broken,
• Fuel evaporating from the bowl (which sounds unlikely as the car won't reestart after filling up with petrol)?

Answers on a thruppeny bit please.

[Fumbler]

BX had a fit starting this morning but ever since I ran it around 20 miles to get petrol, the problem has vanished. I suspect it hates being run only to move it over the road. The whole reason for moving it into the drive was to wash it, and then put it back over again.

Shiny boostid. I haven't even needed to buff it. The wheels are worse for wear, though.

Anyway- onwards. I've made good on my bodge using longer sections of brake pipe and jubilee clips. It's now secure and no longer falling apart as I drive. This has made me rather happy. I was made happier still when I managed to change the starter motor in the layby.

Here's the old and manky one. I've no idea what to do with it apart from try to flog it on eBay as spares or repair. I may contact the guy I bought the new starter from to ask if he wants it to recondition and sell on because it's useless here.

Here's the new one. I would have got more photos but I was doing the next best/worst thing and videoed it instead for funsies.

In short, it's a 30 minute job, made slightly difficult by having to lean over constantly and the intake being fiddly to remove.

I am rather happy.

 

[Fumbler]

The horrible drive home today made my question my sanity. The last thing I want to do is have to rip the front of the car apart to replace a strut.

So, in the meantime, can anyone think of a suitable, big, boxy (or just boxy) hatchback that could* replace it?

 

*not entirely made my mind up yet. I suspect looming college return isn't helping.

[Crackers]

You can have my Focus if you want.

But you probably don't.

[Ghosty]

13 minutes ago, Fumbler said:

The horrible drive home today made my question my sanity. The last thing I want to do is have to rip the front of the car apart to replace a strut.

So, in the meantime, can anyone think of a suitable, big, boxy (or just boxy) hatchback that could* replace it?

 

*not entirely made my mind up yet. I suspect looming college return isn't helping.

Shame my R8's not a hatch. 

Get an R8. 

[Fumbler]

2 minutes ago, Ghosty said:

Shame my R8's not a hatch. 

Get an R8. 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/641582920144426/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-7855876712171022465%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%2230412906788475830%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A30412906788475830%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A5%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A845337013681913856%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00062471499260023%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A108%7D%22%7D

It is winking at me

[Rust Collector]

Would you be interested in this...

I’ve not advertised it, but I’m at a point where I should probably sell my favorit. The problem is I love it, and have spent a lot of my time and an amount of my money on keeping it from scrap, but it still needs some small bits doing so I’m loathe to sell it out of worry that a normal human would just run it for a bit and then bin it should it need anything sorting later down the line. I know it’s not my right to decide what happens to it after I sell it, and that’s why it’s sat in a corner at my parent’s farm right now 😅 from having read your thread I am fairly sure that it would be in safe hands with yourself.

As for what to do with your broken BX starter motor, after replacing the starter on my BX I just kicked the old one down the driveway, it’s still there 😅

[Ghosty]

4 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

I know it’s not my right to decide what happens to it after I sell it,

paging @jamescarruthers

[Fumbler]

7 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

Would you be interested in this...

I’ve not advertised it, but I’m at a point where I should probably sell my favorit. The problem is I love it, and have spent a lot of my time and an amount of my money on keeping it from scrap, but it still needs some small bits doing so I’m loathe to sell it out of worry that a normal human would just run it for a bit and then bin it should it need anything sorting later down the line. I know it’s not my right to decide what happens to it after I sell it, and that’s why it’s sat in a corner at my parent’s farm right now 😅 from having read your thread I am fairly sure that it would be in safe hands with yourself.

As for what to do with your broken BX starter motor, after replacing the starter on my BX I just kicked the old one down the driveway, it’s still there 😅

It is a rather lovely car which I would rather love to own. Is it particularly dull to drive though?

My problem is just like yours- I'd loathe to sell the BX because I do really really like it. I just don't know whether all the noises I'm getting after long drives are the signs of something going really rather wrong.

[Rust Collector]

You’re welcome to a drive of it to see what it’s like. I wouldn’t describe it as dull, I’d probably most describe it as ‘Skoda’ to drive. Drop me a PM if you like, I don’t think you’re mega miles away from me?

[Fumbler]

18 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

You’re welcome to a drive of it to see what it’s like. I wouldn’t describe it as dull, I’d probably most describe it as ‘Skoda’ to drive. Drop me a PM if you like, I don’t think you’re mega miles away from me?

Sounds good. Thanks so much for your offer! As distances go you're not too far away at all. In the Rye general area I wonder?

I'll PM to discuss further.

[Fumbler]

I've thoroughly questioned my sanity and actually did a little test:

 

So it appears the nearside strut is causing my issues. OK, that's part 1 of the problem solved, now to find the source of the creaking and general reluctance to go up and down within the strut. Something needs lubrication or somesuch in there.

I photographed the strut as I parked it (it was parked on an uneven surface), in case that lends any useful info. The kind chap in the Xantia said something about there being a bearing in the strut top or something to that effect. I wonder if this is the issue?

[Fumbler]

Sale? Yeah, about that.

I'm rather embarassed to say this, but nevertheless I believe I jumped the gun a bit on jettisoning the BX. While my family was on board with getting rid of the car when the suspension went all wonky, my dad had a stab at the height control situation and made it sort of better. Then he booked it into a local specialist. Turns out he likes it. Who'd have known?
It's fair to say that in driving the Micra on the motorway and doing long distance, I began to really miss the space and comfort of the BX. Indeed, when I pulled up at home and saw it in the dark, I thought I should give it another chance. Sort of surprisingly, the car concurred... well, it would if it was a living thing, but it isn't one. What happened is that I made sure everything electrical still worked (which it did), then I had a go at moving the height control lever without the car running. Indeed, it was now stiff but moved throughout the range. Then, *clunk* and it moved easily thoughout all the settings. I started the car - took a bit of cranking to fill up the bowl but it started and ran. It sounds brilliant with the new starter, so at least that was a good replacement. Then, I ran it through every heing setting once pressure was built. This is what it looks like at normal ride height:

Intermediate (slightly higher) ride height:

Maximum height:

I couldn't get it to raise to max height a couple of weeks ago. Something clicked back into position and it's now working 75% correctly.

Even though the rear raises up to the normal ride height, the front stays settled. When I set the lever to the interediate setting, the front raises and the car is at normal ride height. Setting the lever to maximum height makes the front and rear raise up. For the car to actually be drivable, the height lever needs to be set at the intermediate setting, which is what I'll leave it at so the garage can diagnose the fault. This points to a linkage fault as opposed to anything else. It'll be interesting to see what's failed under there. Needless to say, A ground clearance inspection and adjustment, once it's fixed, will be called for, just in case this issue has causes some mechanical borkage to occur.

This is now what I have to set the car at to get the suspension running again.

The nearside strut has stopped squeaking as well. What hasn't change is the amount of horizontal play in the top mount, so it still definitely needs replacement. I also need to buy a strut vent/return hose from Chevronics, along with a large jubilee clip. Doing this will allow me to bodge the broken one at my leisure, for when the offside one eventually breaks. It'll happen at some point.

I also attempted to change the ignition coil. They said it would fit the BX. Great, but not my BX. The connector pattern is all different!

Fortunately the correct one should be with me next week.

Languishing in failure, I decided I should re-time and tune the engine some more. After doing so, ignition is now 9 degrees BTDC, and I managed to make the mixture leaner with negligible idle RPM loss. That should help with the engine running and emissions. I've also discovered another oil leak: around the distributor mount. It might just require tightening down or something. Regardless, it ain't oil tight and helps explain why I've lost a touch of oil since changing it.