I thought I'd start a thread on this. I presently love this car but history has proven me fickle and easily distracted, so I expect I'll want to move it on at some point. Doing it this way also ensures no comeback from future owners when they find out I've attached the wheels with silicon sealer, etc.
Lot of flash for a grand, I think you'll agree. I picked it up from the pleasant Mr Xtriple last Tuesday, and have already put a thousand miles on it (including 500 in Norfolk at the weekend, and 200-odd around Gloucester yesterday). As you'd imagine, wafting about in a convertible with a whispering V6 up front is absolutely awful,. I did get a light metallic scraping noise from the NSR wheel for a bit, but the caliper wasn't sticking and it went after a while so meh.
There are a few issues to fix. Most pressing was the passenger door, which wouldn't shut without a heavy slam. I found the door glass was rising too high, and interfering with the A-pillar seal.
There's quite a lot of scope for things to get out of kilter on the windows and hood on these things, but thankfully it's all adjustable. The stops for the window are adjusted by winding down the window, then removing 3 bungs on the underside of the door. This exposes bolts to adjust the position of the front and rear stops, with the middle one adjusting the angle of the glass against the seal. Getting it right is trial and error, it's not quite right but does now shut correctly. There's also a fault with the rear window, a clip that stops it rising too high has broken so it can collide with the front window if you're not careful. Not sorted that yet.
The hood often needs a helping hand to retract it (and to prevent it slamming down on the windscreen frame when closing it). The issue appears to be the tension cables on the front folded section - these are supposed to hold it in a raised position, to allow it to fold up. This doesn't always work so the pump runs but is unable to draw the hood back. The tension on these cables can be adjusted, and it's pretty straightforward job, but it does mean taking the roof down for a couple of hours and I've not been able to trust the weather recently. If there's no adjustment left on the cables it's not too difficult to replace them, but they cost £80 each (and there are 2).
The roof release handle is a bit broken too, this is a common problem. Xtriple's mechanic has made a temporary repair but I may revisit it, there is a DIY fix using a C-clip apparently - else it's £700 for a new roof rail.
Steering wheel is quite worn, and off-centre. I find that very annoying and will get the alignment fixed soon. Dunno what to do about the wheel, upholsterer perhaps? The driver's seat bolster is also coming apart at the edge, again they all do this so finding a good used one is pretty much impossible.
I was unimpressed by the factory audio, despite it having a fancy remote control. Putting in my kit was easy though, standard ISO harness so took about 5 mins!
Unfortunately the speakers are shot, ruining Stuff Like That. The forum bike Jag had the same issue, just age I suppose. I've got speaker adaptors on order so I can fit some decent ones.
This is the car's best feature, this engine is superb. It absolutely makes just the noise you'd expect, a gentle whine yet gives brisk performance and an average of 29mpg. It does leak a little oil though, enough to mark the drive but hasn't required a top up. Will investigate.
Pirate HQ is now well furnished with CLKs. My wife has had this facelift one for a couple of years and I've always admired it, but not the raucous 2.3 supercharged motor. It's slightly slower and slightly better on fuel than the V6 but above 3000rpm it's horrible - it sounds like the CVH from a '80s Escort and ruins the whole experience. Most of them seem to be blighted with that motor though, perhaps the cost difference was large when new. Mrs Pirate now wants the wheels and engine transplanted into hers.
Final problem is the ABS/ASR/BAS light coming on at random. Others have suggested this is the battery getting weak, which is a bit of a worry - I'm leaving it in an airport car park for a week tomorrow.
Strangeangel's Citroënic Shenanigans (featuring the Autoshite BX, Ami Break and some bikes) 17/10 I've arrived in the 21st century. Or something.By strangeangel
I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
So I bought this omega in 2015/16 with the intention of doing a banger rally to Benidorm. The engine had a horrible grinding noise and the auto box was lazy. I spent £100 buying it, £50 on oil and filter for the gearbox and sold it for £200. I sold it to a distant mate who put another 2.5 Diesel engine in and put it back on the road. He’s been using it as a daily ever since. He bought a later omega in better condition with the same engine and offered me this one back or scrap it. £50 exchanged palms and the Omega is now back on my driveway. Epic.
So the plan is this. I’m going to let it sit on my drive for a while, as next year I’m going to do another Banger rally. Cool. Then on return, the engine and Auto gearbox will be transplanted into my diesel Carlton. I hate having a manual gearbox so a diesel auto carlton is a great idea. Whether it happens or not is another thing. But I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues.
It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite.
The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it".
Sticky slider syndrome ^
Fully padded up ^
I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off
Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
Looks smart yo!
Then it got dark...
I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard.
So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.