Jump to content
TheDoctor

Saved Mazda 323

Recommended Posts

Is it the carb base gasket? It should be easy enough, if you can get to the manifold then cut a piece of the gasket paper that's about the right size, lay out in position then gently tap around the edges with the end of a screwdriver handle, it'll score the paper exactly where you need it cutting. Alternatively, lay it in position, then press around the edges with your grubby fingers, you'll have a clear witness mark to cut to.

Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.

Unless a Weber you find is the specific model for your engine it might be more trouble than it's worth. Carb jetting is not as simple as being the same jet sizes for all  1500cc engines, or whatever. You could still end up with a poor running issue, the only benefit being that Weber jets are more*easily* available than Aisan.

I'm not knocking your perseverance though, keep it up please!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, spartacus said:

Is it the carb base gasket? It should be easy enough, if you can get to the manifold then cut a piece of the gasket paper that's about the right size, lay out in position then gently tap around the edges with the end of a screwdriver handle, it'll score the paper exactly where you need it cutting. Alternatively, lay it in position, then press around the edges with your grubby fingers, you'll have a clear witness mark to cut to.

Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.

Unless a Weber you find is the specific model for your engine it might be more trouble than it's worth. Carb jetting is not as simple as being the same jet sizes for all  1500cc engines, or whatever. You could still end up with a poor running issue, the only benefit being that Weber jets are more*easily* available than Aisan.

I'm not knocking your perseverance though, keep it up please!

A standard 32/36 out the box is about right for 1.3 - 1.6 engines, but that would mean paying 300 quid plus. I've done this plenty of times before, especially on Ladas. 

I'm going to stick to the Aisan for now, and make up a template for the carb gasket, in case I need to make another. Or 6.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It has arrived! Cheers Doc and Wingz. 

Might make a new topic when i make some progress on it, or i'll just update this one as it's already the go-to topic for this car. Anyone can feel free to chime in with their thoughts on whether a new topic would be better or not, also any troubleshooting/diagnostic suggestions are appreciated.

First thing i'm going to do is chuck a wideband 02 sensor on it and see what the AFRs are like. Only time that wideband was used was on another Mazda my mate used to own (a ragged-to-piss mx5). Then do the coolant leak and belt squeak, then get to the main issue of carb + general running borkery.

Might pressure wash the oil off of the engine too.

Arrived.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers, much appreciated if you do find the rocker cover gasket.

How long the engine has been running with the coolant leak? Just trying to gauge the likelihood of any possible overheat damage. Also, is it just tap water in the coolant system? Will probably replace the coolant with antifreeze before winter just in case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, BlankFrank said:

Cheers, much appreciated if you do find the rocker cover gasket.

How long the engine has been running with the coolant leak? Just trying to gauge the likelihood of any possible overheat damage. Also, is it just tap water in the coolant system? Will probably replace the coolant with antifreeze before winter just in case.

It has never been run low on coolant, the header tank dropped maybe 1cm in the time I've had it, don't worry. As for what is in there, I don't know. 

It is the heater pipe behind the manifold that is the leaky one. I was trying to gently persuade the alternator out past it and I squished it with the grips. Needs the rubber pipe disconnecting and the metal bit made roughly round again and it will be fine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for the responses guys. Wall of text incoming:

Done a little bit of fiddling before putting the wideband sensor in, at cold idle it seems to only be sitting at around 550-700 rpm and doesn't idle steadily but if i hold it at around 1100+ rpm it seems to idle pretty well (with a little bit of stumbling, hopefully just caused by it running very rich). That gives me the impression that the cold start idle air needs tweaking, gonna leave it like that for now until i get WOT bogging sorted as i'd like to see it at full power, a can tolerate a funky idle on cold start but i really want to see it working at full power first so i know the engine isn't perma-borked.

Haven't got it up to temp yet because the belt squeal is so bad that smoke was pissing out from the belt/pullys and i nearly burnt my hand on the damn thing from the friction alone. Didn't want to run it too long with no water pump spinning. Loosened the alternator and took the belt off to make sure the alt and water pump aren't siezed/grindy and left it off to shut it up. Belt squeal/slippage is next on the agenda.

Chucked an old boost gauge on to use as a rudimentary vacuum gauge and it seems to have good enough vac so i'm not super worried yet. Gonna do a plugs-out throttle open compression test sometime soon rather than relying on the plugs-in compression reading 'cos if there's a break in the head gasket between cylinders then leaving plugs in could mask that, plugs out would mean the compression would escape into the neighboring cylinder and then out to atmosphere via the plug-'oles and show up as low compression on the gauge.

Not sure if the vacuum secondary is working as i've not driven it on the road, will probably jack it up with the front wheels in the air and use the brakes to simulate load while doing a WOT run in 4th to see if the secondary is working.

This is my first time messing with a carburetted car based on less than 2 days of learning/research so if there's anything that i'm explaining/doing wrong or anything i'm missing then anyone please correct me. Some of you guys have been dealing with carbied cars for longer than i've existed so i'm gonna respect that. :P

 

Edit: Just gonna add, thank you very much Doc for the work you've done on it before me, saved me some time and parts costs. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, you already sound like you know more of what you're doing than I do, so that's a good start. 

There is a slim possibility the new alternator has an iffy pulley, as it didn't squeal before the change. The old one is in the boot, in case you need to make one good one out of two (if that is even possible)

Glad you are getting stuck in, I have faith in you 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was wondering if the belt squeak was there before the alt change, cheers for the headsup, it's probably the alternator as i can hear a very slight squeak when turning it by hand (water pump has not even a slight squeak so that's good nooz).

I couldn't trust my crappy cheap boost gauge to give a reliable vac reading so i tried out a proper vacuum gauge, granted it's attached to a hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes but it's got a much finer granularity in the dial reading and is designed for pure vacuum and also reads in inHg which helps simplify diag.

Results:

....Bums.

From what i gather, the fluctuation could mean 1 or more cylinders or valves aren't sealing properly but the high speed of the fluctuation apparently indicates worn valve guides/stem seals, could be worse. Not gonna think of anything conclusively as i'm not trusting my current level of knowledge as gospel. However vacuum seems on the low side overall. Will get the borescope and compression tester out tomorrow and take a look in the cylinders in case there's any surprises, might get my housemate to blow smoke/vape through a vac line via a leccy tyre pump when the engines off as a sort of ghetto vac leak smoke tester.

I did the above vac test at about 1 in the morning so i didn't want to do any throttle blips or anything over 1800rpm to keep the noise down so i've got that to do tomorrow (along with checking cranking vacuum).

Stuck this on the arse-end of the car so i didn't get gassed out by the thing sitting in my garage. :D

 

gasgas.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So the latest news, to sum it up: still buggered but making some progress.

When the revs are held above 1000rpm it smooths out a bit (as you guys saw in one of The Doctors previous videos) but as you can see from my video below the car isn't running rich so the roughness is probably not currently caused by over-fueling like we initially thought. It'll run at around 11:1 or 12:1 AFR which is good to see, but when misfiring it'll totally lean out for that split second.

I've got an idea that the rough running/misfiring is caused by the intake manifold gasket leaking between the coolant passages and intake ports causing coolant to get sucked into the engine, this would fit the symptoms because the fueling seems fine, the ignition (as far as i can tell so far) seems fine and the compression is fine too, yet it's still running rough despite all of the signs pointing to it being healthy. Also the coolant doesn't seem to build pressure like a normal car, it only seemed to build pressure when ragged rather than building pressure as soon as the thermostat opened.

Next thing i'm going to do will be getting the intake manifold off and taking a look at the gasket. Will probably slap some RTV on it as a temp replacement for the manifold gasket and re-assemble while waiting for a new gasket to arrive. It could also be leaking coolant into the engine via a crack or porosity in the intake manifold between coolant channels and intake port. I doubt the block or head are cracked because i would assume that would show on the compression test.

General progress/info:

-Alternator is fine, tightened the belt and all is well with the water pump, alt and power steering pump.

-Coolant leak from matrix mostly fixed, still weeps a little but that can wait until the car runs right.

-Did a plugs out compression test, seems basically the same as Docs readings (150, 160, 150, 150, engine slightly warm).

-Messing with the idle mixture screw doesn't seem to do anything about the misfire.

-There was a single red vac line causing a vacuum leak, plugged it, now there are no vacuum leaks on the engine so that's basically ruled out (only did a lung-strength pressure test, didn't use a compressor for fear of blowing out the gaskets).

-Cleaned the plugs a little, no change.

-Fiddled with ignition timing, no improvement.

-A-Framed it to a friend of my housemates private ground to drive it, definitely doesn't seem to have full 75-ish HP, if i had to guess i'd say its 10 to 30 HP down.

-The black crap coming from the exhaust was probably just carbon from the exhaust mixing with condensation or coolant to create that black muck.

-I took a look in the cylinders with the borescope, bloody scope camera was crap so it was next to useless. I got a better look by just rotating the engine until the pistons were at TDC and looking down the spark plug holes with my own eyes. Couldn't see anything worrying.

-Going to check the cam belt timing, maybe it's off a tooth or two.

-I've got a suspicion that the car was laid up for ages because it developed this fault rather than it developing this fault as a result of not being used. Not sure though.

(excuse the fact a couple of words were muffled, i was holding my phone by the microphone end)

 

As always, any input is appreciated.

intake.jpg

Coolant passages indicated in blue, possible gasket breakage indicated in red, intake passages self explanatory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah you did a good job with the carb tweaking and rebuild i think, cheers for leaving the parts in the boot too. I noticed the spare vac line and was glad to see it wasn't all used up.

Wingz is welcome to the Audi haynes manual if he's ever in the area and wants to grab it, he bagsy'd it first so it's his as far as i'm concerned.

Edit: Forgot to mention something; fueling is still definitely still on the cards for the cause of the roughness. Simply because the misfire is accompanied with a lean moment on the AFR gauge so it could still be some crap stuck in the fuel system or carb jets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.



      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.







      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...






      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.





      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...














    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
       
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
       
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
       
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
       
      Faults:
       
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
       
      Good points:
       
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
       
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:
       

       
      Plans:
       
      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
       
      I will update this thread once progress is made.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Hopefully these two will become good friends.
       

×
×
  • Create New...