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Saved Mazda 323


DoctorRetro

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It is also worth changing the fuel filter if you have not done so already.
When my Corolla suffered from a similar issue of blocked up carb/jets it was caused be the ancient paper element fuel filter disintegrating because it had not been changed in years (ever?) and filling the carb with crap.

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My old Renault 5 Had similar issues to the Docs Mazda, much of the problem was down to massively retarded ignition. But cleaning the carb and making sure pipes and heat shields are in the correct place is probably the better starting point on reflection.  If nothing else it eliminates that issue and shouldn’t be too hard to do.

Do garages still know how to set up carbs?  Must be an entire generation out there who haven’t seen one before!

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1 hour ago, Parky said:

Do garages still know how to set up carbs?  Must be an entire generation out there who haven’t seen one before!

I was going to say actually, there  is/was a guy at Leigh Service Station that used to be a wizz at these things, also try D&G Motors on stock road, Southend.  Both garages had my SD1 V8 on twin carbs purring.   As others have said, if you can get the carb removed Doc then strip clean and refit, get it to a running state, although being a single carb should be fairly easy once you work out which screw does what.   I would stop spending further money on this thing until you can get this carb off and cleaned.  It's 30 years old and been standing for years so probably needs doing anyway.  Give it a go, whats the worst that can happen? it'll still be slightly broken, ideal car to practice on.

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1 hour ago, mrdelmonti said:

Careful though, excessive and improperly prepared lubrication can result in poor running for about 9 months.

Unfortunately, frequent oil changes and more starting fluid only results in a lumpy idle. I'm sure the Haynnes Manual on Man has a section on this somewhere...

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Back together now. No nakedness was required. 

IMG_20190626_210242.thumb.jpg.bfd004aa462dea29e6a77200adac8d17.jpg

 

Some interesting discoveries though.

The second choke is controlled by not only the throttle position, but also an odd diaphragm sort of thing. (fig. 1) I couldn't get it apart easily to check it, so left it alone so as not to make things worse. 

There's also a sort of idle speed screw on the spindle behind the throttle lever (fig. 2). It doesn't seem to be connected to anything and just spins freely. 

 

IMG_20190626_213345.jpg

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Yeah, but it has a couple of holes on the other end like they are meant to be attached to something like a spring or a lever, but it is completely loose. 

I'll have a look on the manifold when I refit it to see if I'm missing something. 

As a side point the automatic choke part that has the water temp sensor was not connected to anything. 

I believe that one of a few things have happened. 

1. The car was laid up due to carburettor issues, and all attempts to sort it failed. 

2. The carb was fine but the banger racer switched it for a duff one he had, which explains why some parts aren't connected etc. 

3. I'm really crap with cars and can turn even the simplest job into a nightmare. 

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6 minutes ago, TheDoctor said:

Yeah, but it has a couple of holes on the other end like they are meant to be attached to something like a spring or a level, but it is completely loose. 

I'll have a look on the manifold when I refit it to see if I'm missing something. 

As a side point the automatic choke part that has the water temp sensor was not connected to anything. 

I believe that one of a few things have happened. 

1. The car was laid up due to carburettor issues, and all attempts to sort it failed. 

2. The carb was fine but the banger racer switched it for a duff one he had, which explains why some parts aren't connected etc. 

3. I'm really crap with cars and can turn even the simplest job into a nightmare. 

4. Carbs are some sort of black magic and beyond the understanding of anyone that doesn't have a degree in tiny screws and jet thingies.

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Yay.... ToMM© has a 'vacuum 2nd choke'...

Hot water comes out of the ally inlet manifold and runs through a passageway in the plastic/tufnel spacer under the carb and then back out again.... That tin square you see is probably the same 'heater' but you don't get a leak of antifreeze when removing the carb.. WinnAh ;)

Liking the RED vac hose renewal.... I have bought red too [sick of Skoobie blue in everything!].

BOL

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41 minutes ago, tooSavvy said:

Yay.... ToMM© has a 'vacuum 2nd choke'...

Hot water comes out of the ally inlet manifold and runs through a passageway in the plastic/tufnel spacer under the carb and then back out again.... That tin square you see is probably the same 'heater' but you don't get a leak of antifreeze when removing the carb.. WinnAh ;)

Liking the RED vac hose renewal.... I have bought red too [sick of Skoobie blue in everything!].

BOL

Yeah, the Toyota carb is an Aisan one too, but I've always been told to leave Japanese carbs alone as once they are unsettled, they are a pig to get right again. 

I really need to find a nice simple Weber adaption... 

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Trouble is price....

All Webers are rebuildable but parts are pricey too....

Ebay has 'hidden gems' but buying two to make a good one is risky cos both may be mullered :(

A lead on a 'boy racer' MOT fail.... All bodge and Evening Standard but running a Weber is a safer bet/rocky horse poo... sadly.

BOL

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