MorrisItalSLX Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 It is also worth changing the fuel filter if you have not done so already.When my Corolla suffered from a similar issue of blocked up carb/jets it was caused be the ancient paper element fuel filter disintegrating because it had not been changed in years (ever?) and filling the carb with crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightBulbFun Posted June 25, 2019 Share Posted June 25, 2019 9 minutes ago, MorrisItalSLX said: it was caused be the ancient paper element fuel filter disintegrating Ghosty, chodweaver, Conan and 10 others 8 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 This place isn't what it was.... No one has suggested the luxo solution of hammer another carb over it. paulplom, BlankFrank, shedenvy and 7 others 4 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 My old Renault 5 Had similar issues to the Docs Mazda, much of the problem was down to massively retarded ignition. But cleaning the carb and making sure pipes and heat shields are in the correct place is probably the better starting point on reflection. If nothing else it eliminates that issue and shouldn’t be too hard to do. Do garages still know how to set up carbs? Must be an entire generation out there who haven’t seen one before! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdelmonti Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 I'd have thought the bogging down is related to the overfueling tbh. I'd start with cleaning the carb, make sure the floats aren't sticking, and the jets are free and clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssDeeWon Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Parky said: Do garages still know how to set up carbs? Must be an entire generation out there who haven’t seen one before! I was going to say actually, there is/was a guy at Leigh Service Station that used to be a wizz at these things, also try D&G Motors on stock road, Southend. Both garages had my SD1 V8 on twin carbs purring. As others have said, if you can get the carb removed Doc then strip clean and refit, get it to a running state, although being a single carb should be fairly easy once you work out which screw does what. I would stop spending further money on this thing until you can get this carb off and cleaned. It's 30 years old and been standing for years so probably needs doing anyway. Give it a go, whats the worst that can happen? it'll still be slightly broken, ideal car to practice on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 There's a Weber tuning specialist in Rayleigh, but you can guess what their solution to everything is! My girlfriend has offered to help me strip and clean the carb, so we'll be doing that in our spare time. djim, stonedagain, Jerzy Woking and 6 others 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 ^^^^ ..... the lolz! I read that post twice DoctorRetro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 Yeah, we may do it naked too ? BlankFrank, stonedagain, djim and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 The carb might magically fix itself with that image! stonedagain and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 11 minutes ago, Fumbler said: The carb might magically fix itself with that image! He may be tempted to try 'Fu<e>l Injection', eh? Fumbler, stonedagain and djim 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 I thought starting fluid would harm the engine? I'll stop now, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry, sorry I will not do it again sir I mean it! stonedagain and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 .... with the proper attention, she'll start right on the Button Fumbler 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 Oh God.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 36 minutes ago, tooSavvy said: .... with the proper attention, she'll start right on the Button I'll twiddle with some parts until I get the mixture right ? stonedagain, Fumbler and mrdelmonti 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdelmonti Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 Careful though, excessive and improperly prepared lubrication can result in poor running for about 9 months. BorniteIdentity, stonedagain, DoctorRetro and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 3 minutes ago, mrdelmonti said: Careful though, excessive and improperly prepared lubrication can result in poor running for about 9 months. Not an issue, I've had that valve bypassed. ? TrabbieRonnie, stonedagain, mrdelmonti and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 1 hour ago, mrdelmonti said: Careful though, excessive and improperly prepared lubrication can result in poor running for about 9 months. Unfortunately, frequent oil changes and more starting fluid only results in a lumpy idle. I'm sure the Haynnes Manual on Man has a section on this somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 Scared now ? Base gasket ruined. Whole thing seems overcomplicated. egg, Fumbler, scdan4 and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelandeth Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 If you're uncomfortable taking it apart to clean I'm sure someone can help there. A lot of the ridiculous looking gubbins there is to do with the automatic choke... don't worry overly much about that and just get everything cleaned up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 BorniteIdentity, spartacus, scdan4 and 12 others 13 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loserone Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 ^ he's a pro tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Longbridge Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 Well done. You are mad though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 26, 2019 Author Share Posted June 26, 2019 Back together now. No nakedness was required. Some interesting discoveries though. The second choke is controlled by not only the throttle position, but also an odd diaphragm sort of thing. (fig. 1) I couldn't get it apart easily to check it, so left it alone so as not to make things worse. There's also a sort of idle speed screw on the spindle behind the throttle lever (fig. 2). It doesn't seem to be connected to anything and just spins freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sporty-shite Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 At a guess, I'd say Fig 2 is the fast idle adjustment for when the choke is "on", hence it not looking like it does anything whilst choke is effectively "off". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 Yeah, but it has a couple of holes on the other end like they are meant to be attached to something like a spring or a lever, but it is completely loose. I'll have a look on the manifold when I refit it to see if I'm missing something. As a side point the automatic choke part that has the water temp sensor was not connected to anything. I believe that one of a few things have happened. 1. The car was laid up due to carburettor issues, and all attempts to sort it failed. 2. The carb was fine but the banger racer switched it for a duff one he had, which explains why some parts aren't connected etc. 3. I'm really crap with cars and can turn even the simplest job into a nightmare. stonedagain and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbenn Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 6 minutes ago, TheDoctor said: Yeah, but it has a couple of holes on the other end like they are meant to be attached to something like a spring or a level, but it is completely loose. I'll have a look on the manifold when I refit it to see if I'm missing something. As a side point the automatic choke part that has the water temp sensor was not connected to anything. I believe that one of a few things have happened. 1. The car was laid up due to carburettor issues, and all attempts to sort it failed. 2. The carb was fine but the banger racer switched it for a duff one he had, which explains why some parts aren't connected etc. 3. I'm really crap with cars and can turn even the simplest job into a nightmare. 4. Carbs are some sort of black magic and beyond the understanding of anyone that doesn't have a degree in tiny screws and jet thingies. chaseracer, BorniteIdentity, egg and 3 others 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Yay.... ToMM© has a 'vacuum 2nd choke'... Hot water comes out of the ally inlet manifold and runs through a passageway in the plastic/tufnel spacer under the carb and then back out again.... That tin square you see is probably the same 'heater' but you don't get a leak of antifreeze when removing the carb.. WinnAh Liking the RED vac hose renewal.... I have bought red too [sick of Skoobie blue in everything!]. BOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorRetro Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 41 minutes ago, tooSavvy said: Yay.... ToMM© has a 'vacuum 2nd choke'... Hot water comes out of the ally inlet manifold and runs through a passageway in the plastic/tufnel spacer under the carb and then back out again.... That tin square you see is probably the same 'heater' but you don't get a leak of antifreeze when removing the carb.. WinnAh Liking the RED vac hose renewal.... I have bought red too [sick of Skoobie blue in everything!]. BOL Yeah, the Toyota carb is an Aisan one too, but I've always been told to leave Japanese carbs alone as once they are unsettled, they are a pig to get right again. I really need to find a nice simple Weber adaption... tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Trouble is price.... All Webers are rebuildable but parts are pricey too.... Ebay has 'hidden gems' but buying two to make a good one is risky cos both may be mullered A lead on a 'boy racer' MOT fail.... All bodge and Evening Standard but running a Weber is a safer bet/rocky horse poo... sadly. BOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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