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CotswoldsDave

30-odd years off road - Triumph Toledo, now in its new home

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3 hours ago, SiC said:

If sealed beams haven't been used in a while, I've read recommendations to run them off a lower power source first. Otherwise they'll pop pretty quickly. Something like a 6v battery or similar. 

We certainly had some spectacular fireworks when the mini was awoken from slumber. I think Alf’s neighbours are still receiving counselling after one of the sealed beams went off. 

We got a pair of H4 conversions, BNIB, for about £25 from memory. 

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On 5/21/2019 at 3:28 PM, purplebargeken said:

They are lovely cars, simple mechanics and nice to drive. I do prefer the OHV driven cars purely for their simplicity.

They are.  Very comfy and relaxing, too.

Tickman drove me down the quarter-mile at Crail Raceway a few times back in 2016 and we had time for a lovely chat.  The supercharged something-or-other we were up against was long gone... 😉

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On 5/21/2019 at 3:28 PM, purplebargeken said:

They are lovely cars, simple mechanics and nice to drive. I do prefer the OHV driven cars purely for their simplicity.

I prefer the twin headlamp look and full complement of dials personally, gives the front end a more purposeful look and some interior eye candy. When I bought the Scimitar I was actually looking for a sporting saloon from the 70's and drove a fair few HLs and Sprints (and some Holbay powered Rootes stuff, other fantastic motors!) and enjoyed them all! I was keen on a really good 1500HL I saw in Greater London near Woolwich but my plastic pig came up more locally for less and just needed a new interior. Which didn't get done in the end

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1 hour ago, purplebargeken said:

The twin headlight setup is a tad more pleasing to look at but the rectangular lights give a better light spread in use.

That i cannot vouch for as not driven a tolomite at night. As I like to make any older cars I’ve owned nore competent for modern traffic I’d no doubt have done a good Halogen or even xenon upgrade to the lights.

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Toledo fettling occured! The bonnet was removed for ease of access and increased visibility. 

Diesel/ATF mix was lobbed down all 4 plug holes, 50ml in each. Will leave it for a few weeks and see how it goes.  The alternator was freed off and moved out of the way, it spins sweetly with no bearing noise.

I've undone the bolts that hold the rad in, all came undone without any drama which is actually a first, although they did have a good soaking in Plusgas and diesel/ATF. Hoses loosened, there was still coolant in there. New hoses ready and waiting. Thermostat housing is now undone and the old thermostat has been removed, it was all gunged up. I already had a new one lurking in the garage for future use.  Fan belt was cut off as it was rock hard. The water pump turned easily but I may replace it anyway. 

I moved the clutch slave cylinder out of the way and it was then that I noticed a space. A space for a fairly important bit of mechanical stuff.

The starter motor was missing lol. Only just niticed as that side was quite hard to see when the car was still in the lock up in Cov.

I really do think that the car was taken off the road as the clutch needed doing, it all makes sense really.

 

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Checking out the rust today. 

Sill on the drivers side is pretty bloody solid, bit of tidying here and there, rear wheel arch needs cleaning up and sorting but it is intact which is nice. 

I took the front grilles off, removed the headlights and had to drill out the original pop rivets holding the light bracketry in. It was pretty rusty behind there, the passenger side being the worst. I will have to do some fabricating to be able to remnount the headlights but as it is the rectangular headlight car that is just a flat panel rather than the stepped panel for the round headlight cars.

Weight reduction equals more speed, right? :)

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I'll see if I can find a photo of my mum and dad's old Toledo which they owned when I was born (1977). I can't remember much about it apart from the colour BL Apeshit  Russet Brown. 

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Well, the big socket failed to make an impression. I was very hopeful.

I've got a jack putting the socket and breaker bar under tension on the nut.  It was one of the suggestions offered on here, so worth a try.  I hope it isn't necessary to try and sort out a replacement engine as it'd be a struggle on my own now to sort out.

I removed the radiator which still held some water, it needs a clean and tart up but is otherwise looking good :)  I had taken the mounting bolts out and soaked them in white vinegar to clean off the rust. Worked well. 

The car is up on axle stands at the front which is giving me access to the underneath bits. It looks solid re: bodywork which is helpful, I took off the under arch shields to enable a proper looking at the end of sill and so on. It's pretty good, just a couple of little finger nail sized holes here and there, plus a matchbox sized hole to patch. In all honesty, it is far better than I could have hoped for.  I hope the other side is in equally decent condition. Whilst I consider the engine option I will tackle the underside over the next few weeks.  The inner wheel arches will be taken down to bare metal. rust killed, painted with POR 15, then stone chip paint applied and then body colour paint to finish. The suspension bits will also need cleaning up and painting. 

The N/S ball joint is utterly and completely wrecked lol, never seen one as bad.  Did make me chuckle. The subframe needs a small patch but looks ok otherwise.

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If you do need an engine transplant, removal or refitting, let me know if you need a hand. I can come up on a choochoopuff with a bag of tools if needed. I'm a pretty strong hefty unit good at donkey work. But I don't have an engine crane.

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Cheers DD ^^

Sadly still no movement. Mate came round with scaffolding pole and two of made no impact.

I have started the process of removing the head and will try the wood and hammer option, it really can't do any harm at  this point.

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I think it is beyond that mate, it had a lot of witches brew soaking in the bores and had a goodly amount of pressure on the crank nut and it was not budging at all.

Appreciated though :)

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Ken, you'd be better off taking the car off the stands at the front and letting the weight of the car shift the engine by jacking it off the ground on the breaker bar. Make sure your bar is a strongun! Leave it overnight and you might get lucky.

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I think the head has to come off now, to see if the bores are saveable?f

 If it’s that seized the rings are going to be nadgered  the moment it moves, so it’s going to need to come apart, hopefully in situ

This clearly isn’t going to be an easy free off, but sympathetic stripping and gentle malleting might yet save it,  With just a hone , rings & shells being the order of the day.

Me, I’d be starting the search for a low cost swop out if you want this on the road in the near future, with a long term intention to rebuild the original ( or not, as funds,/ be arsed, permit!

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Well a deal has been done for swappage of things for a known good engine, gearbox and subframe. The new stuff should be here in a month or thereabouts.

Any volunteers for engine and gearbox swappaging? ;)

Need to find a bloody engine crane.

The old engine will be stripped of anything vaguely useful in the interim.

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55 minutes ago, purplebargeken said:

Well a deal has been done for swappage of things for a known good engine, gearbox and subframe. The new stuff should be here in a month or thereabouts.

Any volunteers for engine and gearbox swappaging? ;)

Need to find a bloody engine crane.

The old engine will be stripped of anything vaguely useful in the interim.

 

Fire some dates off PBK, I should be able to come and lend a hand most weekends in July.

EDIT - I don't have a crane but I do have AF sockets.

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