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shoddybanger

Shoddybanger maintains bangers - Mazda E2200

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Thanks, hairymel! Eric O. is my usual source of car diagnostics info, but I noped out of that video a couple days ago as soon as he whipped out that full-blown diagnostic kit.

Now that I've watched the video again, I guess I just need to source some kit to make it happen.. so I need to be able to tee into the fuel line before the fuel rail to be able to control the flow, and I need to be able to cut off the return loop as well. And then it's just a process of elimination.

Ah, where's my mojo at, when I need it...

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Think you only need to find a way to cut off fuel flow between the pump and after the pressure reg.

Dunno about vulvas but most ford's you can use a bit of 8mm copper microbore and a bit of fuel hose to bridge the quick connects.

ie female connector has a bit of microbore shoved in it then a bit of fuel hose that pushes onto the male connector. Plus a couple of jubilee clips.

Do that before the fuel rail and after the reg then power up.

Crimp the pump side hose and you rule out the pump back feeding 

Crimp the return and power off and you at least narrow it to reg and injectors

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That is a good plan of attack. The fittings appear to be threaded on the volvo, but I've ordered a cheap kit of bits and bobs and tees, so I shall commence testing when they arrive. In the meantime I've figured out that I need to cycle the ignition on a couple of times before starting from cold to bring up the pressure sufficiently for a trouble-free start, so all is good re/ conveyance.

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Fehita the Astra has proven to be mostly sound, so some fettling is in order. I did an oil + filter change a couple of weeks ago, and today it was time for new spark plugs and an air filter. The old plugs proved to be on there quite tight, but number 2 felt like it absolutely wouldn't budge at all, so I changed the other plugs and stopped for a minute to weigh my options. I knew that if number 2 would take the threads with it, it would essentially render the car useless. The X16SZR engine in Fehita is relatively easy to take head off of for a rethread/helicoil, but it wasn't something I'd necessarily want to do right now. I then remembered that there's a sweet 1990 Honda Accord for sale locally for 300 euro, so that would be my backup plan if it all went to sh*t, so I pressed on. The plug fought me pretty much all the way out, but luckily it didn't kill the threads.

It looks like everyone before me wasn't as brave (or stupid?), as the no. 2 plug was indeed an OEM GM plug while the others were Champions. Makes me wonder whether this plug has ever been changed. Can plugs last 250k km? Anyway, I threw in some Denso K20TT's.

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I changed the air filter and proceeded to open the valve cover to change the seal I assumed to be leaking oil. However, once I had everything open I realized that the seal I had bought was a cork-type, while the OEM seal is a rubber one, so I buttoned everything back after taking a gander at the camshaft. There's a certain beauty in a simple, single-camshaft, single-point injection engine.

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Now that I'm writing this I'm thinking that the cork seal might have in fact worked fine, as it's the right size. Hmm.

 

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Soo, it's been ages since my last update. Much has happened - we have moved to the countryside and have taken up farming. There is so much to do and so little time..

Anyhoo, purchase of said farm included, among other things, a Mazda E2200 flatbed. This was decommissioned for a couple of years due to a ruptured clutch line, which was subsequently fixed, and I finally found the time to take it for a roadworthiness inspection. It passed with compliments from the tester. A couple of advisories, though: there's a bit of grot in the exhaust pipe, a crack in the windshield and the license plate lights were inop, but otherwise she's quite sound for her age. We're looking forward to using her for farm equipment hauling duties in her in the near future.

Here's a pez shot after passing the inspection. It's probably five years or so since she was last on the road.

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