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*actual progress klaxon* 205 Jr 2.0 HDI Build

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My intention really is to take it up to 120ish because that should have it snapping at the heels of a lot of things without costing too much.

We took the backbox off today, it sounds nicer but still tremendously civilized, it did make me wish I'd bought safety goggles as well as gloves though as I ended up with quite a lot of 16 year old peugeot in my face.

Short video here, featuring Keith:

 

 

We will be producing more fleshed-out, hopefully interesting, videos once we get started actually doing things.

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Cough.

And the flywheel & clutch are up rated on the 110 (DMF on the 110, solid on the 90), and the con rods are up rated - the 90 uses the BE gearbox, the 110 uses the ML gearbox. The crank on the 90 is the old one from the 1.7 XUD and the 110 uses the crank from the XU9DTE. Someone once told me the 110 uses liners on the cylinders and the 90 doesnt but Ive never had this confirmed. Removal of the cat will free up some horses too.

 

The 90 will remap to between 120 and 130 at the flywheel but be warned spirited use can break the gearbox. Ask me how I know.

 

Looks like you have the Siemens injection system there too.

All of my information is cobbled together from random forum threads and the PSA Servicebox, neither is hugely reliable!

Do you know if it's doable to convert the gearbox/clutch to work with the rod linkage and cable clutch vs the 307s cable linkage and hydraulic clutch? Or convert the 205 to use the box as is using bits from the 307?

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I have spent a fair portion of my morning on the PSA Servicebox trying to find a suitable right hand mount, having arrived at 306 or Xantia as a good starting point.

post-19527-0-98087000-1553775423_thumb.png

As you can see, it specifies different parts for both. I decided upon the Xantia type as it is shaped more like the 307 one in that it goes under the cambelt rather than over so won't require modification of any covers. Of course, once I took to the internet to establish a real-world part number, it turns out that the HDI 306 seems to have the Xantia type shown and the one for the 306 there is in fact for the XUD9 engined cars. Luckily as the 2.0 HDI was fitted to all manner of street furniture the lower half of the mount was sourced immediately, the upper half was slightly less easy but eventually I found one that wasn't in the arse end of Germany or something so free postage. I have garnered some more information about the actuation of the clutch, it's looking unfortunately like I may not be able to use the nearly-new LUK clutch from the 307 without a fair bit of bodgery, but we'll see!

 

In other news, 15 minutes of photoshop resulted in this:

post-19527-0-15979300-1553775894_thumb.jpg

Just in case doovla want an invoice for the work done swapping the engine...

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Um... If it has a Siemens system all I can say is good luck!

Are they that bad? Am I right in saying it's an ECU out job to map them?

 

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Also before I forget to tell you there’s something called the ‘dam code’ should be on a sticker on the A pillar when you open the driver’s door. Keep a note of this as it will make connecting with Peugeot Planet easier in the future.

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Also before I forget to tell you there’s something called the ‘dam code’ should be on a sticker on the A pillar when you open the driver’s door. Keep a note of this as it will make connecting with Peugeot Planet easier in the future.

On here?

62a41db616ec0482504a1535e3b5f6ba.jpg

 

Luckily my plan is to get PP set up before the engine is out so I can see what's what when it's in a standard environment, so no chance of accidentally scrapping the car with the code on it!

 

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Clutch woes averted! Some bits from a berlingo/partner should allow me to retain the 205s cable operation rather than cobbling together some monstrosity on the pedal for hydraulic operation.

 

Next up in the engine bay is driveshafts. I am almost certain that the standard 1.8d/1.6 gti shafts I already have should work. But everything else I've been almost certain of with this project has been monumentally wrong. If they *don't* fit, I know what I need to do to make them fit, but I'd really rather not. Another option if they don't is Frankenstein some shafts that will, but shafts are a wear item in my eyes so I'd rather use something off the shelf.

 

Just exhaust and electrics left to plan, then it's just a case of finding time and a willing volunteer or two and the engine can go in! Something like 80 days MOT left, not sure if I should aim to swap before or after that, we'll see I suppose.

 

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Here’s a guide on how to find it, yes it’s on that sticker

 

https://bartebben.com/map/citroen-peugeot-rp-dam-orga-number.html

 

I got my reader and sw for ~£35 from aliexpress, the reader works fine but the Peugeot planet sw was totally full of malware type stuff. I think windows defender has removed it all now but I keep safe by having a laptop just for diag work

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Here’s a guide on how to find it, yes it’s on that sticker

 

https://bartebben.com/map/citroen-peugeot-rp-dam-orga-number.html

 

I got my reader and sw for ~£35 from aliexpress, the reader works fine but the Peugeot planet sw was totally full of malware type stuff. I think windows defender has removed it all now but I keep safe by having a laptop just for diag work

 

As an IT Technician by trade (despite being away from it for a couple of years) I have a lot of random old laptops about, so that's my plan too. Do you know if I can tell the immobilizer to FRO using PP or will I need to pay someone to do that?

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Good luck with the swap!
 

The MR2 swap I'm doing is almost too well documented, however it often seems to me a mix of people who

 

1. Have lots of theories and know everything but haven't done the swap..

2. Live in another country where there are fundamental differences with some aspects of what I'm trying to achieve

3. Are doing the swap with very slighty different components which makes everything different for my case.

 

So I end up spending more time on the internet instead of actually spannering. 

 

I think what I'm trying to say is, crack on and get your hands dirty!

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Good luck with the swap!

 

The MR2 swap I'm doing is almost too well documented, however it often seems to me a mix of people who

 

1. Have lots of theories and know everything but haven't done the swap..

2. Live in another country where there are fundamental differences with some aspects of what I'm trying to achieve

3. Are doing the swap with very slighty different components which makes everything different for my case.

 

So I end up spending more time on the internet instead of actually spannering. 

 

I think what I'm trying to say is, crack on and get your hands dirty!

 

I'm experiencing variations on all 3 but secondhand based on looking at people doing different swaps of XU(D) and HDI engines into 205s and other things. Mostly/entirely other things in the case of DERV it seems...

I've spent a lot of this week seeking out OEM parts that make things work and fit as I need, because I lack the skills to fabricate and modify parts myself and lack the funds to have it done for me. It is very frustrating at times (case in point, the clutch cable mount for the BE4R gearbox, I know exactly what I need but finding one has somewhat stumped me) but when I finally find what I need it's quite satisfying. Actual real spannering will commence soon hopefully, once I'm sure that there's not going to be any expensive project stopping hurdles. Well, other than the exhaust... That'll either get farmed out or stuck together with pigeonshit using a borrowed welder, we'll see.

I was also wrong about that being all that's really left, the cooling system remains an unknown, though it's well within my ability to stick loads of scrap hose together with jubilee clips as a "get it running and figure it out later".

 

Of course, that hasn't stopped me testing easy and obvious bits and bobs such as this £20 nonsense:

post-19527-0-06764300-1553807014_thumb.jpg

That + straight pipe, sounds like a tractor. In the best way.

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As an IT Technician by trade (despite being away from it for a couple of years) I have a lot of random old laptops about, so that's my plan too. Do you know if I can tell the immobilizer to FRO using PP or will I need to pay someone to do that?

 

No you cannot do that with PP. 

 

Probably the easiest thing is to keep the BSI and aerial and gaffa tape the chip to it. 

 

IMMO off on these things is likely to require either desoldering or some sort of JTAG/BDM setup to dump a particular bit of EEPROM from the ECU, change some code and reflash.

 

Unless you particularly enjoy fiddly soldering jobs or trawling through forums where English is not even the 2nd language, I would give serious consideration to spending a few quid with HDI tuning or similar for an IMMO off ECU, with remap obvs.

 

https://www.hdi-tuning.co.uk/ecu-remapping/unlocked-ecu-immobiliser-delete/siemensSID801-SID801A.html

 

I reckon as this has no IMMO you could run it "standalone" without the BSI, so worth it's weight in wiring and extra shite. You just need to order the right part number and select a level of remap.

 

Edited to add: good luck, should be good once done, would be a bit easier to start with a Bosch car not Siemens but a free donor is a free donor eh.

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No you cannot do that with PP. 

 

Probably the easiest thing is to keep the BSI and aerial and gaffa tape the chip to it. 

 

IMMO off on these things is likely to require either desoldering or some sort of JTAG/BDM setup to dump a particular bit of EEPROM from the ECU, change some code and reflash.

 

Unless you particularly enjoy fiddly soldering jobs or trawling through forums where English is not even the 2nd language, I would give serious consideration to spending a few quid with HDI tuning or similar for an IMMO off ECU, with remap obvs.

 

https://www.hdi-tuning.co.uk/ecu-remapping/unlocked-ecu-immobiliser-delete/siemensSID801-SID801A.html

 

I reckon as this has no IMMO you could run it "standalone" without the BSI, so worth it's weight in wiring and extra shite. You just need to order the right part number and select a level of remap.

 

Edited to add: good luck, should be good once done, would be a bit easier to start with a Bosch car not Siemens but a free donor is a free donor eh.

It sounds like taping the chip to the aerial route is best for now then, it can get done properly once the car is ready for more power.

 

Even at £200 though the total parts budget would remain nice and low too, as these things go, so that's nice :D

 

I'm also rapidly becoming more and more glad that I'm working with a donor car (free or not) rather than just the bare engine, this could all get very expensive that way!

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I've just spent 45 minutes or so wandering around the yard and sitting in cars waffling to camera about not very much, time to edit this down to something not *too* boring for YouTube, but at least I was mostly talking about cars so I'm doing better than a lot of car modification series...

 

Both AutoShite and HubNut stickers visible for extra product placement points!

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Yo, some new info on ECU stuff.

 

1. You can now read by OBD using the new version of MPPS (v16) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MPPS-V16-ECU-Flasher-Chip-Tuning-Remapping-Tool-for-EDC15-EDC16-EDC17-MED9-x-ME7-/222223012745

 

2. For IMMO off, you can't do it just by programming, you have to use an emulator which you solder in to the ECU and it pretends to be your BSI. Presumably this sort of thing is in the HDI-tuning IMMO off units.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-JULIE-Emulator-New-Universal-IMMO-Emulator/183718889624

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU0DUYAuoPQ&vl=en

 

If you got the code card with the car, you won't have to do the initial bit of desoldering to get the immo PIN.

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Yo, some new info on ECU stuff.

 

1. You can now read by OBD using the new version of MPPS (v16) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MPPS-V16-ECU-Flasher-Chip-Tuning-Remapping-Tool-for-EDC15-EDC16-EDC17-MED9-x-ME7-/222223012745

 

2. For IMMO off, you can't do it just by programming, you have to use an emulator which you solder in to the ECU and it pretends to be your BSI. Presumably this sort of thing is in the HDI-tuning IMMO off units.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-JULIE-Emulator-New-Universal-IMMO-Emulator/183718889624

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU0DUYAuoPQ&vl=en

 

If you got the code card with the car, you won't have to do the initial bit of desoldering to get the immo PIN.

Excellent information! Thank you for this, I'd reached a bit of a dead end on the immobilizer front, but that looks very doable, and more importantly affordable!

Now I just need to worry about the physical practicalities of the wiring.

Progress will be somewhat slow for now since I'm working 6 days a week to build up some cash, but my current plan is to get the car MOT ready as it is and then set aside a week-ish to get the engine in and running once it's got a years ticket. I may need an alternator though, it doesn't seem to be very well, possibly just a diode pack.

 

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It's all been a bit silent recently as I've been working pretty much every day in order to build up a bit of a buffer to let me work on this instead of real work when summer actually takes hold. I think I'm almost ready to swap the engine in and have it running and I can do fettling as and when I can after that. Unfortunately PP2000 keeps throwing a hissy fit while setting it up and MPPS won't read the ECU for some unknown reason, but that can be fixed later on.

 

The most important part arrived from good old China though:

4deb4f49124b0c520ec9a0742a1725df.jpg

 

I should get a chance this weekend to get it fitted so the engine will run without gaffer taping the 307s key somewhere.

 

I've settled on using the 205s gearbox as it seems like it'll be a hell of a lot less hassle than trying to use the 307 box, and as far as I can tell it should work quite happily with the existing clutch. Which is nice because it's a nearly new LUK.

 

Brakes and suspension remain in planning, right now it looks like it's going to be 1.9 rear beam + front subframe/wishbone/struts/etc, standard drums on the back (all new parts though) and 1.9 brakes on the front. Depending on the state of the donor calipers and my finances it may get brand new (well, remanufactured) calipers on the front. Almost as cheap as rebuilding them myself but a lot easier and a lot shinier.

 

If I pull my finger out it may be ready by MOT time, which would be nice as it'd mean I don't have to waste time and money fixing the alternator and the leaks on an engine that isn't staying.

 

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anyone else still think of 2003 cars as nearly new??? must be an age thing!!

I'm 23 and it feels very much like a modern car to me, but I'm here so probably not really representative...

 

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It was throwing an error at the end of the install, then after a couple of goes while installing the updates from the dvd

 

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It was throwing an error at the end of the install, then after a couple of goes while installing the updates from the dvd

 

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If you managed updates did you manage to install it then? If not let me know and I’ll see if I can upload my malware filled but working version so you can try it.

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Lexia/Peugeot planet is like super gonorrhea for computers, I probably have a link somewhere to a version that worked for me if you get stuck.

 

Hope you are installing on a spare machine or in a VM.

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I gave up on it in favour of doing other things, will revisit it soon! I've been using a VM to do it, because my spare laptops won't boot to a windows installation disc for some reason

 

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It turns out I made a dangerous assumption about the ECU, it is in fact a SID801 which it appears isn't really at all easy to remove the immobiliser from. Therefore plan A involving bodgery and gaffer tape is go. At this point I just want it running, so am happy enough to just mount everything in a box in the footwell or something to deal with later. Unfortunately this probably means having to program out the alarm, I think? Maybe just bodge it so all the sensors and switches are permanently in a state of "everything is fine". I think I have a decent amount of time this weekend and next week, so this all may happen rather quickly without too much in the way of in-progress updates. The interesting bit will be uprating the rest of the car to cope with its new found torques I suppose.

Apologies that there's a lot of "maybe I'll do this" and not a lot of "I did this"!

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Some good news! Rigorous perusal of all manner of technical documentation has revealed that Siemens injected HDIs don't use an electric lift pump in the tank. I assumed that they did because common rail, so was planning on modifying the 205s pickup using parts from the 307, but that won't be necessary.

Thanks to mr 320Touring's work on the fuel system in the deep distant past very little modification will be required to the existing pipework and I can sack off the hopeless standard filter housing. I will need to deal with the leaky priming bulb, but I'm sure I can live with that.

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