Jump to content

Micra - Drop link removal - hex rounded out


RustyNuts

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

 

Er indoors had an MOT failure yesterday... most of it is electricals (misaligned headlights, air bag warning light etc etc) but it also has a knackered coil spring which i'm half way through replacing - flaming storm isn't helping as i've had to pack up due to rain..

 

Anyway i've been struggling with the drop link. The threaded part that goes into the shock absorber has a hex hole in it. Not normally a problem - i've done loads of these previously however the micra has decided to be a pain in the arse type of car and the hex has rounded out. I've tried bigger piece allen key pieces in there and the same thing is happening.

 

I can remove the drop link with an angle grinder, that's not so much of a problem but a replacement is £20 and it's £20 i'd prefer her not to need to spend.

 

I don't have an impact gun or blow torch so that's out and the car isn't really roadworthy to take to a garage.

 

I did get the nut to turn before it seized (yes i used WD40 before starting on it) and there's probably about 1/2 mm between the back of the nut and the shock absorber bracket. Now i can't tighten it back up either.

 

Before i make plans to end the life of that drop link with the angle grinder and a cutting disc, is there anything i can do to undo the thing?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a pair of thin nose lock jaw pliers and lock real tight on to the ball joint at the back then give it a go. There should be some flats on the round part that sits on against the strut. Failing that bust the ball joint off as they’re only plastic seated and grind the ball off the end of the anti roll bar. That’s never failed me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a pair of thin nose lock jaw pliers and lock real tight on to the ball joint at the back then give it a go. Failing that bust the ball joint off as they’re only plastic seated and grind the ball off the end of the anti roll bar. That’s never failed me.

I think you missed the bit where he wants to keep the drop link...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bane of my fucking life are droplinks this month! You need new ones, they won't come off easily now! Does the back of the thread (the bit behind the mount) have a flat for a spanner? If so it's not as painful, I had 2 other spanners wedged between the spanner on the flat and the bracket on the zx on Sunday.

 

If no flats, then hacksaw/grind the nut off. Otherwise it's ripping the gaitor off the joint and hoofing some grips on and hoping they bite enough to not slip and turn the nut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think I've ever done a drop link but if it's a nut you could try splitting it off with one of these:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/nut-splitter-set/p80007

 

I bought them to get a track rod end nut off that I just couldn't shift. I ended up having to buy a new TRE anyway as I couldn't find a replacement nut but had I had more time I could almost certainly have got one from a fastener specialist for a few pence. Mine were branded Silverline, and despite them apparently having a poor reputation it did the job flawlessly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just done the drop links on a 2010 polo and the new ones have flats behind the thread and I had the perfect thin spanner to fit...... the old ones didn’t have the flats...... out with the grinder. As has been said, these parts are really cheap (£10 a pair) so out with the grinder when the wouldn’t unbolt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...