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Subaru MV284 ongoing toil.


Joey spud

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So this holed bit on the back panel had also rusted out from the inside due to water ingress and so i cut away the paper thin section and made a patch to weld in.

When i had the truck painted in 2013 i had its lower extremities all stone chipped before having the top coat applied the hope being it would stay rot free for longer and i guess it would have had i correctly sealed the rear lamps and made sure any drain holes were clear.

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Derusted,painted and stone chipped again,i am going to make sure the inside of this rear panel is swimming in wax before the truck goes back on the road.

Today has also been "crack open that fresh tin of P38 day."

I really detest filler and trying to get good results,i get there eventually but i always end up putting way too much on and spend forever sanding the stuff off again.

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The lower rear quarter used up half of my 600g tin to get looking and feeling right,not really sure why i spent so long tarting about as no one is going to look there anyway.

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The arch has been a slag too,it's either to high or to low.

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And the blending of the sill to the quarter panel took way more filler and effort than my patience allowed for.

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But once i splurged some high build primer over everything it doesn't look too bad.

It's  80% there and i will guide coat it and do the final 20% when i decide how to paint it.

Time now to spin it around and do the same on the drivers side.

I want to use the old girl this Summer painted or not but selfishly my employer emailed me today and wants me back at work on the 26th the Gits.

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On 4/14/2020 at 6:17 PM, Joey spud said:

Recently a pair of nos Gabriel ones popped up on a 99p start / £40 buy it now auction so i stuck a max bid of £35 on them and forgot about them only to get a notification saying i had won them for 99p,then a few mins later i got another message cancelling my transaction claiming the shocks were "lost or damaged".

That's out of order. Same thing has happened to me in the past.

Some great work by the way.

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Well this is a bit of a mile stone for me,the near side of the Subaru is welded up and solid.

As i have said previously i should of replaced the full sills and rebuilt the rear arches before i painted it back in 2013.

So instead of replacing the fence today as i promised Mrs Spud i span the truck around and started on the drivers side...

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I found these homemade ramps in the brambles behind the shed when i moved here back in 2008 and they are actually quite good and with the truck being two or four wheel drive it's just a case of pulling a lever to select all four wheels and straight up the ramp she goes without them shooting off into next doors garden.

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This hole in the rear of the floor was a suprise as the nearside floor was perfect.

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The whole length of the inner sill was fine apart from this bit,i am 99% certain this rot was caused by a leaking windscreen seal that let rainwater pass down the A post and collect here unable to drain away.

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This inner arch doesn't look too bad...

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Ah fuck sticks...

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The rear lower quarter is a bit better than the n/s though.

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I cut away some of the outter sill (note previous patch repairs made from a spare red bonnet had held up ok) to have a look inside.

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Well to be fair it's no worse than the other side was.

So in summary if someone claims they have a rot free 90's Japanese vehicle you have my permission to give them a swift,sharp kick in the Nads.

 

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A lack of fresh cutting discs lead to me being a dick and taking the guard off my old B+D grinder so i could cut a rotty bit out of the floor,of course no nuns or kittens were harmed but...

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The wiring loom to (i think) the fuel pump relay took a direct hit.

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Meanwhile up the shed i have been tidying up my 15 inch wheels.

These were off of a 20 year old Mazda B2200/Ford Ranger and were a standard jap  6×140 bolt pattern that i redrilled to 4x140 to suit the odd sized Subaru hubs.

A local place blasted and powder coated them for me only for rust to start showing through at the hub and outter rim joint almost straight away so they did them again but still couldn't rectify the problem.

My Bodge/cure has been to run a bead of good quality bathroom silicon sealant around the join which has lasted for years and i only refreshed it again for something to do.

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I need some new tyres the current 195/50x15 winter tyres are now perished but did match the rolling circumference of the original 155/70x13's but look a bit chavvy for a man of my advancing years so i have decided to go up to a 60 profile to fill the arches more and drop the revs per mph a little bit.

Finally i spent out £15 on a new set of anodised wheel nuts,these have 21mm heads as the original 19mm ones looked a bit lost on the bigger wheel.

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  • 9 months later...

Decided to crack on with the Subaru this weekend as i really want it back on the road this Summer.

I've had some nearly new Avons in 60 profile up the shed for a while now so while i was out yesterday at a well known tyre outlet i got them swapped on to the rims.

Once home i popped one on to see what's what and i think it fills the arch much better and looks more sensible than the old size and should make it slightly longer legged too.

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However i was looking at the other tyre that they fitted and something wasn't quite right...

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Inner.

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Outter (in various lingos).

Ah bumhats.

 

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  • 1 year later...

I have done a bit of Subaru today.

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The sump has been leaking ever since I used tiger seal as a gasket as the new cork gasket I had intended to use was very wrong.

Being 80's Japanese the sump could be easily removed without any need to lift the engine or drop the cross member.

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I had a clean spare sump so didn't have to fanny about scraping the tiger seal off the original one and used a smear of good quality silicone to hold the gasket in place.

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It all bolted back on easily enough and I'll leave it overnight for the joint to fully cure before adding the oil again and running it up.

The paint has faded badly but previously I've had some success reviving the shine by claying it first then cutting back with 3M green top compound before applying a couple of coats of quality wax.

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Talking to a smart repair guy while doing an air quality test on his van yesterday and he suggested I cut out the tedious claying stage and use a 2000 grade sanding pad instead to lift the crap and oxidized top layer off.

He gave me a couple of pads so I will give it a go tomorrow.

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  • Joey spud changed the title to Subaru MV284 ongoing toil.

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