Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Joey spud

Subaru MV284 Away for the winter.

Recommended Posts

With the YRV more or less finished i think its about time i got my arse in gear and sort out my Subaru.

I have owned this since 2012 when it was a beige truck with grot in all the usual places.


I spent an age welding it up and swapping panels over from my other totally rotted out one before prepping the body to the best of my ability.


Before paying to get it painted in vw corrida red 2pack.



Once put back together it did look quite tidy.

Fast forward to 2019,the mot has long since expired,the expensive paint job has faded and rust has burst through the rear arches and sills.





Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



So bonnet up,let the fun commence.


The 1800cc boxer engine has always burnt oil and its big end bearings really knock while waiting for the oil pressure to rise so that is a good a place as any to start.








It's an oily old bugger but even the down pipes unbolted without any complaint.


Last year i bought a cheap engine crane just for pulling the motor out but the quality of some of its welds were so piss poor i had to beef them up before using it in anger.






Obviously being a flat four it's only half the length of a common engine so is a doddle to get out.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a real shame. How come it got so bad so quickly?

Towards the end i started to rush things.

I should have put fresh metal in the arches rather than just treating the rust and using filler.

As for the sills these have rotted from the inside and i think at some point the screen seal was allowing rain water to run down the A post and soak them.


It also lives outside all year round.


I have new sill panels for it but the floor where it joins them is going to need help too.

I plan to make a template of the rear arch profile then go down the scrappy and cut the arches out of something similar.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

While the motor is out i am going to change the gearbox.
It all works ok 2wd,4wd and hi and low ratio is all good but it whines and marks it spot with a few drops of ep80.


I have a spare from my long since scrapped one but its been stored behind the shed for six years and the bin bags i had wrapped it in had long since rotted away and it wasn't looking too great.

So i got it into the shed today and gave it a good clean and freed up the sticky high/low linkage then removed a little inspection plate and had a peep inside.

My big fear was that water has got into it but the inside is still oily with no sign of corrosion.


I sack barrowed the engine up the garden to the shed today where i sat it next to one i started to prepare earlier.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was curious why the old engine has always burnt oil so i popped the heads off.

These EA81 engines are similar in design to a Beetle unit with a gear driven camshaft and push rod operated valves,they produce 85 bhp from their 1781cc's.




The carbon/oil deposits seemed similar across all the cylinders with maybe no4 being the most coked up.


Looking down bore no4 there is some light scoring and right at the top of it there is a crack about the size of a little finger nail.
Most strange.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the dog out for a walk earlier and it started raining so the Hound (Boggy the Beagle) and i sheltered in the pub (as you do) and i decided to pull the valves out of a head when i got back home.


Well there's a fair bit of oil on the backs of the inlet valves but their guides and seals still seemed in good nick.
Unlike the exhaust guides that are really baggy.


So that have i learnt from all this ?

Well a couple of pints of "Proper job" Cornish ale at three in the afternoon didn't help with the diagnosing process one bit.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



Time to get the incontinent,noisey gearbox out today.

The driveshafts are secured with a roll pin and because the gearbox was loose i was able to yank it left and right to release and remove them without having to drop the bottom balljoints which was a result.

Everything came undone ok except the speedo cable which is plastic and screws into the alloy box but 29 years later it was not moving so i had to release the cable from the back of the dash and pull it through the bulkhead instead.



I was hoping i could drop the box downwards and drag it out from below but it's a heavy bugger and my backs not as good as it once was so i hooked the crane on it and pulled it up and out instead.



Blue rope and my best Granny knot,proper shitting right there..



That's err better ??

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



With the gearboxes side by side i tired to to unscrew the speedo cable but i was just chewing up the hexagon bit.

I dont have a spare cable and getting one would be a bit of a hunt so i reluctantly ended up using a cutting disc and slicing into the gearbox where the threads are allowing me to hit it with lots of plusgas which eventually got it moving without totally wrecking it.

But doing this has make a bit of a mess of the old gearbox but if i ever need to use it again i reckon some chemical metal would bodge it up ok.

I had ordered a new release bearing from Rock auto in the U.S last year but it was the wrong one.


The bearing was correct but the carrier it was pressed onto wasn't but i was able to swap it over onto my old carrier.

I had also bought some gearbox mounts at the same time and these did fit.



So that'll do it can go back in again now.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Straight forward service parts are easy enough to get from most motor factors but anything more model specific can eventually found on Ebay.


A guy called Giles up near Halifax is a bit of a hero and has remanufactured stuff like wings and tailgate skins in fibreglass and recently imported a shipping container brimmed full of bits back from Oz.


I used to have a good little Subaru / Suzuki / TVR dealer in Ditton (sort of Maidstone area) that would always search for stuff and if it was still available order it for me but they closed down a while back and i don't know where the next nearest dealer is.


Rockauto in the U.S are the go to supplier and are really good,their website is excellent and prices are very cheap (complete new driveshaft just £28) but obviously the killer is the cost of shipping so it pays to do one big shop and try and order everything from one warehouse and not different ones scattered around the country that way you only pay for postage from one location.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


I swapped all the good bits from the old engine to the lower mileage spare one today.

This one is very quiet and doesn't seem to burn oil but i did pull the heads off last summer and give it a bit of a once over anyway.




I lightly reground the valves although they didn't really need it and checked the bores/replaced the stem seals and gaskets as required.

I also replaced all the O rings in the oil pump as these always go hard and leak.


Ahh fuck it !!


I had aquired a sump gasket years ago and thought i may as well change it while the engine is hanging in mid air so unbolted it only to find i hadn't drained the old oil out of the engine (muppet).

It so nearly ended in tears as i scrabbled to find something to collect four litres of dirty oil in.


Pleasingly it is nice and clean inside the sump and the block has a nice golden sheen to it.


Ahh fuck it again.

Far less pleasing is my sump gasket has either shrunk or (more likely) not suitable for an EA81.

Cork gaskets are so yesterday anyway and with zero chance of getting the correct one locally i resorted to Tiger seal instead.

If it leaks (i'm sure it wont) i can drop the sump easily enough when the engine is in situ.

Finally for today (everyone cheers) i decided to remove the Egr valve and its plumbing.
I only needed to pull its vac pipe off it to render it useless but i made a blanking plate out of ally to cover the valves orifice on the inlet manifold and also welded up the ends of the pipework to keep it tidy.





So there you have it.

Right i am off down The Chequers as it's 80's night tonight.

Tomorrow i am going to fanny about with the exhaust maybe.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That cork gasket will probably return to size ok if you soak it in water overnight. Glue it to the sump with your favourite sealing goop and then leave to set with the sump gasket pressed down on a flat thing by a heavy weight. Bit of grease on the block-side of the gasket and it'll come of undamaged next time the sump is removed. (Probably)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Manflu (may even have been Ebola) and constant rain kept me indoors all last week.
I had planned on cleaning the oil from the front cross member and popping the gearbox and driveshafts back in but not a chance.

But i had shiny bits up the shed.
I got these nice new (not recononditioned) driveshafts from Rockauto last Summer so thought it best to make sure they matched the spline pattern of my gearbox and drive hubs which thankfully they did.



Hopefully these shafts will last longer than the reconditioned ones previously fitted to the truck.

I think the problem is the old units used for remanufacturing them are just too worn out now days to allow them to be successfully rebuilt yet again.

My exhaust system needed help too it wasn't that old but was suffering with much surface rust and my Cherry Bomb rear silencer had snapped above the rear axle.

Heat proof paint seems awfully expensive,doesn't prevent rust starting and it usually has the covering ability of Ribena.

I had dig about on the net and wondered if cold galvanised Zinc paint would be any good instead.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So i took a punt and spent £19 on a can of this stuff.


I wasn't sure if it could take the high temperatures created by a rorty Subaru flat4 so i tested it first by painting the Daihatsu down pipe with some,leaving it overnight to dry then going for a brisk drive the next day to see how it performed.

Initially it got a bit smokey but the stuff has mostly stayed put and has baked on nice and hard so i decided to use it on the Subaru's pipework.


Here's the distressed looking genuine Subaru front and centre pipes.

I used the rust deox stuff on the front two pipes then gave them two thick coats of the Rust-Anode paint.
This stuff dries with a grey primer top layer but this can be gently rubbed away with a blunt scotch pad to reveal the thick zinc coating below.




This is my old once red Cherry Bomb.


Digging around down the side of the shed i found the spare single tail pipe from the YRV and after a bit of measuring and cutting i was able to biff it back to its former glory again.






I have no idea if this coating will prolong the life of the hard to find genuine exhaust but it surely can't hurt either.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a lovely old thing, looks like a great (If a little daunting) project to get stuck into.


RE exhausts. I've always promised myself one of the stainless bespoke 'lifetime guarantee' jobbies, in reality I'm far too mean to part with the cash for one but if this car's a keeper it might be worth thinking about?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good progress, mine recently passed its mot with a couple of advisories for brakes, ball joint and play in the steering. I've found a ball joint from a local motor factors but they don't seem to stock discs or pads. Any tips for finding some that aren't hideously expensive?

I've spotted a couple of reconditioned steering racks on ebay but can't decide if it's really worth the effort in changing it.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By BoggyMires
      Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln  though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues. 
      It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
      This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite. 
      The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 

      Sticky slider syndrome ^

      Fully padded up ^
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.


      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...

      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 

      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.

      Looks smart yo!
      Then it got dark...

      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
      Good points:
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:

      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
      I will update this thread once progress is made.









      Hopefully these two will become good friends.

    • By BorniteIdentity
      This week, for the first time ever, I felt old. I have sciatica which swaps from one side to the other, arthritis in one hand and what I think is the beginnings of IBS. On top of that it took me 2 weeks to remember a registration number that once would take me 2 seconds, and I forgot my parent's wedding anniversary.

      I'm only 32.

      Shit. No I'm not. I'm 33. I forgot that too. (Genuinely)

      So, it's about time I committed some of my tales to paper. Well, a shonky server... but that's the best you can do in 2016.

      First up, a list of the cars I've owned (as best as I can remember) in chronological order.

      Main Cars
      1985 VW Polo Formel E. C158 TRT. This was given to me even before I passed my test.

      1991 Rover Metro S. J801 TAC. Bought about 3 months after I passed my test as I was convinced the Polo was about to shit its gearbox.

      1987 Volvo 360 GLT. D781 ___ Managed three months in a Metro before the small car and smaller petrol tank became a bore.

      Ford Mondeo and Honda Civic Coupe by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Ford Mondeo Zetec. V384 DBJ. Still the most I've ever spent on a car. It was 3 years old and cost, from memory, about £8,000. Just think of the Rover R8s you could buy with that now!

      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI 8v by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1987 Volkswagen Golf GTI D79 CVV. I very nearly bought a MK1 Golf 1.1 but was persuaded, by my father amusingly, to buy this one from a different friend. From memory I gave about £500 for it, and sold it to some racers later that year for about £300. Amusingly, 16 year later I'd sell the Hartge wheels that came with the car for £530.

      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis CDX. V781 GDP. By far the best car I've ever had. Bought in 2002 for £5300, it had previously been a company car at British Telecom. I ran it from 62,000 to 174,000 before it became surplus to requirements. A German chap bought it on ebay for about £500 and drove over to collect it. Hero.

      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2001 Ford Mondeo Zetec. Y821 EEB. I should have loved this car. I gave £500 for it in 2008 which was stupidly cheap by anybody's standards. It needed 4 tyres (which actually was nice to pick good ones for once) and a coil spring. Sadly, it was just bill after bill after bill. I sold it and promised to never own another Ford. I nearly succeeded.

      1998 Nissan Almera by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1998 Nissan Almera GX Auto. S58 NLO. My late Grandfather's car and, upon reflection, my first proper attempt at bangernomics. I bought it for £500 in 2008 from the estate and ran it for well over a year and 30,000 miles. It was also my first automatic which, whilst a bit dumb, did lock up into overdrive and give a good 36 mpg no matter how it was driven.

      2004 Ford Fiesta 1.25 LX and 2006 Ford Focus 2.0 Ghia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Ford Fiesta Zetec. AG53 BWL. My wife's car which I ran for a couple of years when I bought her a Focus as a wedding gift.

      2003 Rover 75 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2003 Rover 75 Club SE. AX53 BFA. This is where my career as a serial car buyer really began. Ignoring all of the warning signs I decided to press a K Series into a daily 100 mile commute, which it did with aplomb. This wasn't actually the car I set out to buy, the one I'd agreed to buy OVERHEATED ON THE FORECOURT whilst I was doing the paperwork. Consequently I couldn't leave fast enough and bought a different car later that day.

      2004 Toyota Avensis T30-X by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      2004 Toyota Avensis T3-X. KT53 DWZ. Sensible head back on, I decided to get back into something I trusted when my 3rd son was born. This was a lovely car, but not without its problems. The VVTi oil burning issues are well documented and do frequently occur. Ironically, this was less reliable than the Rover it replaced! Despite fearing the worst and 3 months off the road, the new owner has just MOTd it.

      1999 Toyota Avensis SR by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1999 Toyota Avensis SR. V263 GDP. Back into bangernomics territory again. The last MK1 Avensis I had was the best car I'd ever had, so I hoped to replicate it with another T22 Avensis. This one came up for sale in my favourite (and rare) colour with a numberplate sequential to my previous car - so it was meant to be. I still have this now, and tomorrow it will tick around to 185,000 miles having been bought by me at 100,500.

      Side Bitches

      1974 Morris Mini 1000 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1974 Morris Mini 1000. GEL 517N. Well, I always wanted one - and was young, free, single and well off at the time (2003). A memorable trip to buy it when I called my new girlfriend by my ex girlfriend's name 20 miles into a 200 mile weekend away. She's never forgiven or forgotten but we're still friends. Oh - and married.

      1977 Ford Capri II GL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1977 Ford Capri II 1600 GL. SMY 675R. I can't remember why I bought this, other than I thought it'd be amusing. It was bought from Norwich for £350 and was perfectly well behaved for the 8 months that I had it (other than a flasher unit expiring). I remember being shocked just how much the windscreen would ice up inside, and duly sold it in November to a guy who was going to drive it daily! It's still alive and now, apparently, black! (Update - it's now silver!!!)

      1989 Volvo 340 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1989 Volvo 340 DL. G67 AVN. I bought this for £80. Unbelievable. It was utterly bloody perfect. I wanted to do a banger rally which is why the guy gave it to me so cheap. I'm still yet to do that rally, but no longer have the car. I sold it for about £300 to a family who were clearly down on their luck who, I hope, still have the car.

      1996 Toyota Granvia by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1996 Toyota Granvia. N775 JEV. My wife and I decided to increase our numbers further and, with our 4th son on the way, larger transport was required. We quickly realised you can either have 4 children and no apparel, or apparel and no children. After trying a very tired Mercedes Viano, the Granvia was found for 1/4 of the price and it's still here 2 years later. I can safely say that we'll never sell it - it really is another member of the family.

      1993 Mercedes 190e by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1993 Mercedes 190e. L795 COJ. I've admired these cars since I was a child. In fact, one of the very few toy cars I still have from my childhood is a Mercedes 190e. Regular readers of "Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder" will know what a PITA this car has been since day 1, but I get the feeling it's a keeper. We'll see!

      1983 Ford Sierra Base 1.6 by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1983 Ford Sierra Base. GVG 510Y. Not explicitly my car, but it should be documented here for reference. Oh - and the V5 is in my name. The story is online for all to read as to how five of us acquired what is believed to be the only remaining Ford Sierra Base. Make a brew and read it, it's a fantastic story.

      1982 Ford Sierra L by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1982 Ford Sierra L. LCR 503Y. I accidentally won this on ebay for £520. Upon reflection, I shouldn't have sold it - but short stop of saying I regret it. I could never get truly comfortable driving it and, in fairness, I could scratch my Sierra itch with the base if I wanted. Sold it at a stupid profit of £1250. It is believed to be the oldest remaining Ford Sierra in the UK.

      1979 Volvo 343 DL by Bornite Identity, on Flickr
      1979 Volvo 343 DL. DBY 466T As you'll see above, I'd had a 360GLT as a younger lad and fancied one of these earlier cars. The variomatic is, frankly, terrible but amusing. This car has just 8000 miles on the clock and inside was absolutely timewarp. Sadly, the huge bill for the Mercedes 190e cylinder head rebuild meant I had to sell this car shortly after acquiring it. Since then I've had a bit of money luck, and now realise I didn't need to sell it after all. Typical.

      I think that's it. My arthritis is playing up even more now. I've left out a few cars that were actually my wife's, but if I find pictures will add them in at a later date. I'll run this as an ongoing thread on cars and what's happening.

      Current SitRep:

      Purple Avensis: Just about to click over 185,000. Minor drama this week when an HT lead split but otherwise utterly fantastic, fantastically boring and boringly reliable.

      Granvia: Just done 1000 miles in a month around Norfolk, 6 up with suitcases. 31mpg achieved on the way up which is good for an old tub with a 3.0 Turbo Diesel on board. ODO displaying 175,000 which is a mix of miles and kilometers. Say 130,000 miles for argument's sake.

      Mercedes: Being a PITA. It's had the top end completely rebuilt after the chain came off. Now needs welding to pass another MOT and the gearbox bearings are on strike. It's about to go into the garage for winter until I can stomach it again. 151,000 miles on the clock.

      Sierra bASe: Still on sabbatical with AngryDicky who only took it bloody camping in cornwall! Legend.
  • Create New...