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Allo Allo, Topless French fancy or Pug deux-zero-cinq or how to fix fuel injection without resorting to fire or insanity

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I'd be giddy with that many parts and fluids to mess around with, how can you wait until Friday!

  

It’s hard but I If wait until Friday I can get it on a four post lift so it will be so much easier and worth the wait. I did go over this lunchtime though and just sat in it and had a play about with a few bits. It’s tragic how excited a mid 40s man can get.

Good luck M8, I shall be reading with interest!

Thanks mate, I am looking forward to getting it back in the road as soon as possible.

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Woohoo, got the tracking for my Dutch throttle,body and it’s on its way, I can track it on their partners website once it’s in the uk. Hit the link.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh shit................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yodel..................

 

 

 

 

 

Well Mr throttle body, the dream was nice while it lasted.

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Oddly enough Yodel have still not delivered the throttle body, no doubt it is presently being used as Yodels match ball for the 4.45 cup final. Thankfully other bits have been arriving, including a proper Borg and beck (no less) suspension arm. Tomorrow is start day, the plan is to hit the rust first and see how bad it all is, then depending how bad it is, either the panels will be made and welded in, or templates made then I will make them up next week. I will probably chuck oil and a filter at it as well as it can be draining as I clear the rust up, then depending on time and how everything else has gone, maybe look at stripping brakes or playing with the suspension arm. I will on,y get about four hours on it so I am probably being wildly optimistic over what will get done, if I finish the day with the welding started and repairs panels made I will be happy.

post-19712-0-54352700-1551384794_thumb.jpeg

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Very good day but knackered now, few pics before, I will add more info when I get home.post-19712-0-90766100-1551456502_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-66304700-1551456523_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-01172200-1551456548_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-76559300-1551456566_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-84117100-1551456587_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-37860300-1551456648_thumb.jpg

Soooooooo it’s been a long but very productive day. Rust was duly cleaned back, one rear corner was less bad than expected but the front floor made up for it. It’s not unexpected as it usually gets worse once you start digging about. In between making up repair pieces and hitting stuff with a hammer I did a quick oil change. The oil that came out didn’t seem too bad. I didn’t even look at the brakes or suspension apart from a liberal dose of penetrating fluid.

 

Then the idle........ As I need to be able to move it about a bit I decided to look at that as a matter of importance. It has about 3/4 of a tank of petrol in but when I removed a plug and cranked it over the fuel has a bit of a stale smell so may be past its best. That’s no problem though as I can suck it out and put it through the wife’s 500 to get rid of it or I will just brim the tank and go for a good run. It doesn’t like to idle, it really doesn’t like to idle, but the runs ok once above idle. So being an old fashioned sort of bloke I decided to look at a simple solution. The black plastic bits in the pics are nylon 66 shims that sit between the throttle cable and it’s stop. In the pic they are unfinished and just as they came off the lathe, a quick whip around with a knife and then a slot cut to get them on and they work a treat. There is no adjustment on the throttle body or cable but this seems to have helped enormously. It will now idle happily around 1000rpm and picks up ok. I know it can’t be that simple but for now it’s working ok. I have had a message to say Yodel have delivered the throttle nosy and it doesn’t appear to have stud marks or bits of grease on it so I may have been lucky! Here’s hoping! And next Friday will be brakes and suspension arm day........

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Easiest way to get the bleed nipple out is to pop the piston and seal out and then just warm the body up a bit - a kettle of water is usually enough.

Use a single hex socket and make sure the force is just turning it.......this is harder to do with a spanner

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I am properly knackered now but have spent half an hour looking over the newly delivered throttle body. Comparing it to the previous generation as outlined in the Haynes manual it seems a really retrograde step. On the surface the ‘sealed for life’ approach MIGHT seem a good idea, in reality it’s a bit crap as things get old and wear a bit. The idle issue on this car being a perfect point in question. On the throttle body there is a pin which acts as the stop for the throttle butterfly linkage, on earlier models it was an adjustable stop. So as it wears or other issues begin there is no way to compensate. It must have saved about a cent if anything at all. So if the spacers don’t work out I will drill out the pin and tap the hole for an adjustable stop. Two can play at this modification game......

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Yeh, the fuel in it will be a year old if it's a day, so may well want dumping. Good progress!

I think 6 months is usually fine, much past a year and it’s likey to be past it’s best. If it was an old carb one I would stick some castrol R and octane booster in but I don’t think the Cat would like that. I am also trawling the eBay ads for an air filter and duct to replace the one on there as air leaks could be complicating things. I am very pleased with progresss so far and even the 400yds around the car park had me grinning like a loon. I got paid yesterday so will order plugs, leads and a couple of other bits. I am wondering about getting a nearside suspension arm so they are both new. Is it best to replace in pairs?

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I remembered today that I have a nice AGM battery that will go in the Pug a treat. I will need to make uo a battery tray as there doesn’t appear to be any way of holding a battery in place. But I have some sheet ally to will knock one up out of that. Being an AGM type it should take the less frequent use better. It’s a few years old but checked it today and it was reading 12.8v (last charged about a year ago!) and cranked the Capri over happily so will easily do the Pug.

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I remembered today that I have a nice AGM battery that will go in the Pug a treat. I will need to make uo a battery tray as there doesn’t appear to be any way of holding a battery in place. But I have some sheet ally to will knock one up out of that. Being an AGM type it should take the less frequent use better. It’s a few years old but checked it today and it was reading 12.8v (last charged about a year ago!) and cranked the Capri over happily so will easily do the Pug.

 

It did have one of those metal strip affairs with a 10mm both through the middle that held the bottom edge of the battery steady... possibly it fell off in transit as it would have been loose due to no battery in place :(

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It did have one of those metal strip affairs with a 10mm both through the middle that held the bottom edge of the battery steady... possibly it fell off in transit as it would have been loose due to no battery in place :(

It’s no problem as this battery is about 2/3rds the size of a regular battery anyway. Making a tray will be a fun little side project and I can play with new folder we have at work. I have been drawing up some fag packet type designs today inbetween attempts to fit a warped door into a warped frame.

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This sounds uncannily like my house... the feckers who built it were strangers to right angles.

frustratingly they are both new, but getting a door casement that is straight seems impossible. I took one back that was like a banana and went through five more before finding one that could be made straightish. Then trimmed the door this morning to fit the hole only to find out that the damn thing has a bow of more than half an inch from top to bottom. Too late to take it back so have been trying to get it as best I can. it’s about a 1/4 inch out now which is annoying but not the end of the world.

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I had a bit of time at lunch today, I also had a bag of bits after having a rummage in the garage last night. I had forgotten about a sheet of stupidly expensive carbon honeycomb I got for free from Lola years ago, it was slightly water damaged so ended in their skip from where it magically arrived in my garage. That and a bit of ally angle seemed ideal for a battery tray. I need to get some pound shop araldite then add the allthread but it will be a nice solution I think.post-19712-0-85092400-1551716269_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-65803000-1551716293_thumb.jpg

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Tomorrow should see more progress and I hope to finish the welding and do the brakes and hopefully suspension as well. I have also got an air filter assembly on the way so I can reduce the underbonnet cable tie content by 50% when they arrive. Only possible spanner in the works is that it has been hinted at to day at work that I might be needed to supervise a project off site for a few hours, which with travel time would kill my chances of getting much done after work. I have made a few excuses and think I am ok.

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...so I can reduce the underbonnet cable tie content by 50% when they arrive.

 

Yeh, sorry about all the cable ties down there. Pretty much everything was broken in and around the air intake assembly and that was my best effort at making sense of the whole mess when I was spending all my spare cash on keeping a certain Citroën going...

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Yeh, sorry about all the cable ties down there. Pretty much everything was broken in and around the air intake assembly and that was my best effort at making sense of the whole mess when I was spending all my spare cash on keeping a certain Citroën going...

Don’t worry, it wasn’t a moan in any way at all. Just trying to get her back up to spec as best as possible. It could also be part of the issue with the idle so for the princely sum of £20 it seemed worth getting the replacement bits. The way you have mamanged to arrange the cable ties is a work of art mate and truly worthy of AS repair gold badge. They are not easy shapes to keep together!

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I managed to get a few more hours in today and it’s been good and bad. The welding is finished and seam sealed, then will paint next week and it’s all done. It’s taken about 5 hours in total. No idea how, time just seems to speed up when you are welding. The suspension arm has been changed. It fought me a bit but I think I know ‘the trick’ now. It has an inner mounting point, anti-roll bar attachment and the ball joint. At first I fitted the inner and roll bar joints and tried to manoeuvre the ball joint into place. After about half an hour of getting it sooooooooo close I decided to try the other way and it went it relatively painlessly. Then came the brakes. The second pic should give an idea of why the brakes failed. One pad is down to the metal and that side of the disc is royally shagged. The excellent news is that the sliding pins of the caliper are immaculate and sliding nicely and the piston is also very clean and went back in an absolute treat. The new disc apwas put on and I was feeling pretty smug. Then I opened the brake pads to find they are for Girling not Bendix brakes. They were from SOC on here who had both types so guess it was a simple mistake on which was which. Unfortunately that stopped play for today on the brakes :-( I had just under an hour spare so started to play with the washer pump. It was a sod to get the terminals off and they look pretty ropey. I then fired up the pump on a dc supply I have and nothing. Half an hour stripping it as far as you can and then cleaning it out saw it firing into life and spitting a load of crap over me. Success. It’s still a bit intermittent but I only put 6v through it as the dc supply doesn’t regulate amps (well not under about 20A) so it’s easy to fry stuff if you aren’t careful. Hopefully a liberal use of contact cleaner and 12v will see it running. Then it’s just the fog light and number plate light to check over and potentially this time next Friday I could be looking at booking an MoT!

 

post-19712-0-96418700-1552061081_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-68163400-1552061105_thumb.jpgpost-19712-0-46022800-1552061123_thumb.jpg

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Thinking about the brakes strangeangel, you mentioned they suddenly got worse on the way back from the MoT. I wonder if the bare pad lost the friction material at that point. It didn’t seem very worn and if it had simply gone through due to wear you would expect scoring all over. The other pad had about 2mm left on it and the sliders are working perfectly.

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