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vulgalour

1987 Citroen BX

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Today has been a good BX day.  Not only has the parts I ordered for the pump now being despatched, one of our neighbours asked if I'd like some old metal ramps.  I'm not a big fan of the old metal ramps for driving onto, I've had a habit once too often of driving a bit too far because I've no sense of where they are.  However, they are a practical thing to jack the car up and sit on for some jobs and free is free.  Neighbours were having a bit of a clearout and I'm sure I've become Old Car Guy (tm) on our street now because if people are getting rid of things, they ask if we'd like them, and I often do because it's useful stuff that we just don't have.

One of the most useful things was an old Black & Decker DN54 circular saw.  We've been clearing a lot of overgrown stuff out of the garden, old laminate flooring, and bits of fence and we've needed something to chop them down with.  Current pandemic restrictions means getting a tool we don't have hasn't really been viable, so providing this little saw actually works it should go through what we need to clear fairly quickly.  I'm guessing it's no newer than mid 90s.

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We also got a bunch of old hand saws, some with those really comfortable wooden handles.  I'll clean these up and make them good again, these will be very useful dealing with garden waste that the circular saw and other tools aren't.  There's also a shed to build and the garage to kit out with cupboards and shelves, so these should be a real boon, there's even a nice little tenon saw amongst this bunch.

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A Colortune 500 is a useful thing to have.  Am I going to resist the urge to put the Colortune sticker in the back window of the Princess?  Probably not.  It will certainly help with setting things up providing it's all present and correct, which it looks to be.

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This little tool is an oddity.  It has two crocodile clips that go on battery terminals and it's for cleaning up spark plugs.  I thought they'd stopped making these well before this style of plastic bodied thing.  I'm thinking it can probably be repurposed as a bolt thread cleaner, I doubt I'll ever use it for its intended purpose.  I imagine the abrasive material inside it is full of lovely lead from old 4 star fuel.  Mmmm carcinolicious!

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Finally, the sturdy ramps.  These should make some of the jobs I have to do at home a bit easier.  Jacking the BX up to get them under the front wheels was a bit of a palaver involving two jacks since without the injection pump fitted I can't actually start the car to raise the suspension, or drive the car onto the ramps.  It's another weapon in the toolchest at least and it's saved me getting a new set since there's nothing wrong with these aside from maybe benefitting from a coat of paint.

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All in all, not a bad haul.

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3 hours ago, vulgalour said:

One of the most useful things was an old Black & Decker DN54 circular saw.  We've been clearing a lot of overgrown stuff out of the garden, old laminate flooring, and bits of fence and we've needed something to chop them down with.  Current pandemic restrictions means getting a tool we don't have hasn't really been viable, so providing this little saw actually works it should go through what we need to clear fairly quickly.  I'm guessing it's no newer than mid 90s.

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Late 70s/early 80s I would say - my Dad had one when I was a small child. I recall it being present when we moved house in 1984, but was too young to remember him buying it, which ties the date down to roughly then.

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Happy days, the new pump parts arrived!  They're even correct, so that's nice.  I used https://injectionpumps.co.uk and can't fault them.

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Unfortunately, I've come unstuck.  To save me going from garage to house I brought the pump indoors, surprisingly it doesn't really smell of diesel now.  I've got the throttle spindle, o-ring, and governer spring assembly all assembled correctly as far as I'm aware.  The problem is, every time I line everything up and go to put the lid on, I can feel that something is stopping the lid lining up.  I'm not forcing this for fear of breaking internal components again.

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The larger black lever (for want of a better term) on the top right of the internals is I think what's stopping the lid sitting down.  Of the two levers, the one the spring assembly goes into is the weaker and much easier to move, the larger lever is very difficult to move.  I suspect the larger lever has sprung back against the side of the case and I need to push on it as I put the lid on somehow.

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My other suspicion is that I've got the  black lever that goes in the top of the case misaligned.  I removed this when dismantling the pump, I probably didn't have to, and now I'm not sure which way or position it should go on reassembly. I'm concerned that if I get it wrong it will press on the throttle shaft fork and break it.

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Advice sought on this one.  I feel like I'm really close to having this back together and it's my trepidation on getting it wrong that's the only thing stopping me.

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Had another look at this and a couple of suggestions were to unscrew the bit in the lid that pushes against the large black lever.  This made no difference.  I looked at what else could be interfering and removed both the throttle shaft and the black lever in the lid, this allow the lid to close.  On trying the throttle shaft and the black lever in separately, without the other component, the lid will shut.

So, there's an interference issue between the large black lever in the lid, the the throttle shaft and spring assembly.  The parts are all undamaged, the new parts identical to what came out, I just can't figure out how they're all supposed to interact inside the pump.  I also can't find diagrams or instructions on this and I don't have any photographs because you can't really see how these parts interact when you're taking the pump apart until you have it apart.  May have to send this off for a rebuild yet, just to get the thing back in one piece.

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A no-contact collection was done today for a BX bonnet for the I got for £20.  It's the wrong colour, and it's from a turbo model.  At the price, all I was hoping is that it was as straight and tidy as it looked in the photographs and happily, I was not disappointed.  On getting it home I first checked fit, which was good, and then set about swapping the insulation pads on the bonnet since they're different and I can't actually shut the bonnet with the turbo insulation pad fitted.  Very easy to remove, you just gently ease the pad over the metal clips that hold it against the bonnet.  If anyone needs this insulation pad it's yours if you can collect it from Kent, it would get destroyed if posted, I'm sure.

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The pad from my old bonnet was transferred to the new one, which involved removing a lot of trim clips since the turbo pad needs more clips to hold it in place.

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On the back of the original soundproof pad was this little hand-written sticker.  I left it in place, it was fairly firmly attached.

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The silver bonnet does fit a lot better than the old white one, it isn't exhibiting the same signs of being twisted.  There is still an issue with the passenger side headlight area, which is mostly down to the lower outer peg the headlight pushes onto being loose and bent. This also means the headlight is pushed slightly too far to the middle and just touches the bonnet, which is annoying.

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Other than that, the overall fit of the bonnet is much better and I could even get it to fit the hole evenly with the adjustment available at the bonnet latch, which I can't with the original white one.

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In person, it's a big improvement over the other bonnet.  The main issue at the front is that wonky headlight now.  Did my best to line up a shot from my previous efforts to get the alignment correct and while there does appear to be a slightly lift to the silver bonnet over the headlight in the photo, it's mostly down to the way the headlight has drooped a lot more and the angle of the photograph with the car currently being on ramps because of the injector pump issue.  In person, it's quite a large improvement.  Alignment along the wings is much better too, without the big rise on one side and dip on the other.

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I'd say that was £20 well spent.  Once I've got the car running again I'll see about getting this bonnet repainted and see if I can find some way of straightening out that headlight.

 

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Had a go at installing the pump today and found out quite quickly that I couldn't do it.  For one thing, I don't have a dial indicator so I need to get one of those to set up the pump in relation to the engine so that the timing is correct.  However, that shouldn't stop me installing the pump itself, that should be a nice straight forward job.  The most difficult bit is getting the woodruff key slots lined up.  There's a slot in the pulley, like so.  Note one of the mounting studs is removed here, I'll come to that in a moment.

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There's another slot on the pump shaft that goes through the pulley and bolts from the other side.

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However, the two slots are misaligned quite a lot.  I didn't set the engine to TDC when I removed the pump because that wasn't in the instructions.  Rather, the engine was rotated to the point that the bolts could be put through the pulley and into the pump mounted plate which means you don't have to remove the timing belt, etc. and, in theory, makes for a quicker job if you're just dropping the old pump back on.  The problem here, is that I'm dropping what is effectively a new pump on and that's why there's this alignment issue.

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I got one of the pump mounting studs out fairly easily, the other two don't want to budge.  My thought there was to line up the pump with the pulley without the studs and then rotate the pump to the correct position while the pulley was still locked which, in theory, should allow everything to line up nicely and I can then order the tool I need and be done.  However, because I can't get those two studs out with the tools at my disposal, this option is a no go.  Also, I can't figure out how to rotate the pump off the car to make the key slot line up, and I daren't force anything since I've only just forked out a considerable sum to get it made nice again.

Either way it's faff to fix.  I either need to get the tools to remove those two mounting studs so I can fit the pump in the wrong orientation and then rotate it to the correct orientation, or I can remove the timing belt and pump pulley, fit the pump and then fit the pulley to the pump, after which I'd have to make sure the timing was correct, etc.  Third option is to save up some more cash and just get someone else to do it which honestly, is my preference at this point.  I'm fed up of working on engines, I don't understand how anyone derives any joy from any of it.

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Ok now I've seen the pic of the pump after you told me the problem on Telegram, I'd say get some plumbing pliers (or any pliers that open wide) and turn the shaft manually. Don't turn on the threads as it may damage them, but "technically" the only part of the shaft that's important is the woodruff key so you can scratch the shaft no problem as long as you don't gouge it like a barbarian. Try to turn it the way the engine would turn it, it's better for the pump, mechanical things generally don't like being turned backwards.

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