Jump to content
warren t claim

Ask a Shiter

Recommended Posts

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

Sharpness is the key to cutting, material/treatment is the key to maintaining sharpness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

e0bf5dc24914b5e6666a447c7f135088.jpg

98f30a96bac3c022229f505fe9fce840.jpg

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

e0bf5dc24914b5e6666a447c7f135088.jpg

98f30a96bac3c022229f505fe9fce840.jpg

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

Would have no issues with that other than putting chocks under the wheels at the other side

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

e0bf5dc24914b5e6666a447c7f135088.jpg

98f30a96bac3c022229f505fe9fce840.jpg

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

 

Looks fine to me. Handbrake on and left in gear - safe* as houses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Probably not worthwhile, if reported stolen in NZ it *theoretically* will also be here and if unlocked would not get a signal due to being blacklisted.

 

Check the serial number on here before spending anything.

 

https://imei24.com/blacklist_check

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

Cobalt drills for hardened metal. In fact better for everything really. What you drilling? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah chocked on the other side. I wasn't 100% so I also stuffed a (probably rotten) wood post offcuts down the ramp too.

1819a8e98b485626c0eba83708be16c8.jpgade0b20223f804d5daa991116e9c1920.jpg

If you are still uncomfortable about being under it I have put ratchet straps round the wheels through the ramps before and they inspire confidence.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global.  It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE.  It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only.  Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

 Can a mod shift this if in wrong place?  Cheers

 if it was reported missing it may be perma bricked 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

What are the terminals labelled?

 

B+, L and F?

 

According to Saab WIS, F provides the engine ECUs with generator load. "Generator connection F is not used in cars with diesel engine or petrol engine Z18XE.".

 

L is the battery light and field winding wire. I.e. goes to the battery warning light. On a modern car this goes into the ECU for the ECU to manage it and light the necessary dash lights when needed to.

 

B+ is to the battery

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1.8 petrol vectra ? I’d be checking the breather pipes into the throttle body . The small one goes into a tiny hole and blocks up easily

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

Unless it’s something a bit more in depth I’d just borrow/buy a cheap reader. What you’ve got there would be handy if you’ve got a spare laptop. I say spare cause a lot of this software is riddled with viruses. A cheap reader should be easy less than a tenner.

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

Carb or brake cleaner & as far in as you can get, just don't leave bits of cloth in there afterwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone the owner of an exceptionally nice looking Skoda Octavia MK1 in white registration ending in XSB... HubNut sticker on the rear view mirror, spotted in a layby near Reddish. If so, I commend you on having one of the nicest looking Octavia mk1s I have seen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Almost new iPhone 4?

 

Anyway, no if it's locked then it's locked globally as Apple do their own authentication against a network unlike all other manufacturers who let the networks deal with it (with the effect that a network bar is usually just for one country)

 

It has to be Apple that unlocks it too. There's shady ways, it'll normally lock itself as soon as it does an update or you change the SIM.

 

There is a techy thread on the open forum with this type of stuff in btw. I'll leave this here for now though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

Either, they are a muchness really, get one, plug it in and see what it says, you’ve a rough idea then the area it may be. Carb cleaner for the throttle body. Pipes are tricky to clean out, I’d price up a new one, sometimes on Corsas the top breather pipe blocks, a new one is about £7, it’s hardly worth trying to poke it through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Hooli

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

 

Sticky stuff remover?

 

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/293673837

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can find somewhere solid to jack to lift one end then spinning one of the ramps round 180 degrees would do away with the need for those posts

Just seen this.

 

I jacked it up each end individually and did consider doing that. My fear by doing that was not it rolling off, but slipping off both. Probably unfounded. I over imagine things sometimes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have had the Oxford out on a round trip bimble to the parents, and my Dad had his first trip in it.

 

It's squealling like a fucker from the dynamo. Lubricating the rear bearing with 3 in one oil quietens it down but not for long.

 

Any ideas?

Find an alternator to chuck on, kits for the Minor are less than £100 so MG stuff should be easy to find too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...