hhhugues Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Hi! One for the auto electrics enthusiasts out here: I have recently-ish puchased a cheap 05 plate Trafic. The stereo stopped turning on yesterday. Prior to that, the display thing above the stereo unit had no functioning backlighting, but the whole system was still working fine. Now nothing works. I tried to put an old unit I had lying around but it doesn't turn on either once plugged in (however it does eject CD's, which suggests there is some kind of power going through it ). I tried changing the accessories fuse as well. What else could be causing the stereo to stop working? Faulty fuse box? Suggestions welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort1977 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 You need to check the permanent and switched live, if it's ejecting the CD that suggests the permanent live that keeps the clock going is all right. Find the colours for those two and at least check it's getting power. Then check the correct fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy29 Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Well, the Focus had an MOT. Garage didn't want too much to do the major defects so I decided I might as well let them. During the test they didn't work out exactly what was causing the exhaust problem or how big a job the welding will be so I'm still worried they'll find it's worse than they thought but I'll see. They were leaning towards a gasket which would tie up with the previous test. Plenty of things to look at afterwards if it can get done. Will finally be able to invest in tools. How much can stonechip protect things once these problems are showing up? Any chance of being lucky and being able to slow the progress for more than a year or so? Bloody brake load valve is always seized... Repair immediately (major defects) - Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases Front [6.1.2 (a)] - Exhaust lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [8.2.1.2 (c)] - Brake load sensing valve seized but anti-lock braking system functioning [1.1.17 (c) (i)] - Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength Offside Rear (sill) [5.3.6 (a) (i)] - Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced Offside Rear (sill) [7.1.1 (a) (i)] Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories) - Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced Rear [6.1.1 (c) (i)] - (offside front sill corroded away) [this was what was patched up last year] - Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Offside (sill) [7.1.1 (a) (i)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Paste the advisories with some waxoyl and run it till the new test runs out. Those seatbelt anchorages on the Mk1 Focus can get really bad. I’d pretty much bet a penny to a pound that it’s corroded from the rear seatbelt/trailing arm mounts all the way round the boot floor to the back. Depending on how bad it is it’ll likely need welding next year. andy29 and twosmoke300 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazoli Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/6/2020 at 5:15 PM, hhhugues said: Hi! One for the auto electrics enthusiasts out here: I have recently-ish puchased a cheap 05 plate Trafic. The stereo stopped turning on yesterday. Prior to that, the display thing above the stereo unit had no functioning backlighting, but the whole system was still working fine. Now nothing works. I tried to put an old unit I had lying around but it doesn't turn on either once plugged in (however it does eject CD's, which suggests there is some kind of power going through it ). I tried changing the accessories fuse as well. What else could be causing the stereo to stop working? Faulty fuse box? Suggestions welcome! On 12/7/2020 at 4:10 PM, cort1977 said: You need to check the permanent and switched live, if it's ejecting the CD that suggests the permanent live that keeps the clock going is all right. Find the colours for those two and at least check it's getting power. Then check the correct fuses. And to further this you may need to swap the switched and permanent lives as they can differ from car to car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floatylight Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 I'm currently replacing the injector seals on the Grand Picasso, what's the best solvent for cleaning the gloop and clag from the injectors and cylinder head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan_dyane Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 What should I use to stick headlamps lenses back on? I have already tried no more nails which didn’t work. Glass lenses and plastic reflector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 14 hours ago, Floatylight said: I'm currently replacing the injector seals on the Grand Picasso, what's the best solvent for cleaning the gloop and clag from the injectors and cylinder head? I think worth do a good carbon cleaner. Think it’s called manifold cleaner or something. I guess that is for a 1.6 hdi ? Hope I’m not teaching granny to suck eggs but make sure you change the rubber injector tube seals as well as the copper washers. You need a suitable socket / piece of pipe to install them with out turning the lips the wrong way round and making oil leaks Floatylight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Tell a lie - it’s Forté Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loserone Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Came here for an AX. Disappoint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy29 Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 7:58 AM, sierraman said: Paste the advisories with some waxoyl and run it till the new test runs out. Those seatbelt anchorages on the Mk1 Focus can get really bad. I’d pretty much bet a penny to a pound that it’s corroded from the rear seatbelt/trailing arm mounts all the way round the boot floor to the back. Depending on how bad it is it’ll likely need welding next year. Oh christ, will do if there's any metal left to put it on 🙃 I will find out very soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworthbay Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 On 17/12/2020 at 06:49, andy29 said: Well, the Focus had an MOT. Garage didn't want too much to do the major defects so I decided I might as well let them. During the test they didn't work out exactly what was causing the exhaust problem or how big a job the welding will be so I'm still worried they'll find it's worse than they thought but I'll see. They were leaning towards a gasket which would tie up with the previous test. Plenty of things to look at afterwards if it can get done. Will finally be able to invest in tools. How much can stonechip protect things once these problems are showing up? Any chance of being lucky and being able to slow the progress for more than a year or so? Bloody brake load valve is always seized... Repair immediately (major defects) - Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases Front [6.1.2 (a)] - Exhaust lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [8.2.1.2 (c)] - Brake load sensing valve seized but anti-lock braking system functioning [1.1.17 (c) (i)] - Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength Offside Rear (sill) [5.3.6 (a) (i)] - Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced Offside Rear (sill) [7.1.1 (a) (i)] Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories) - Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced Rear [6.1.1 (c) (i)] - (offside front sill corroded away) [this was what was patched up last year] - Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Offside (sill) [7.1.1 (a) (i)] Whoever patched it last year most likely just welded a piece of steel over the rust. Unless you cut out the grot and prep the area, then make sure you treat the inside, as well as the outside, it will rot through in no time. Sadly this is how a lot of MoT garages work, cheap and quick which please most customers and gets another ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Tamworthbay said: Whoever patched it last year most likely just welded a piece of steel over the rust. Unless you cut out the grot and prep the area, then make sure you treat the inside, as well as the outside, it will rot through in no time. Sadly this is how a lot of MoT garages work, cheap and quick which please most customers and gets another ticket. Realistically though what can you do with an effectively end of life car that the owner probably doesn’t want to spend a lot of money fixing. twosmoke300 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworthbay Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 25 minutes ago, sierraman said: Realistically though what can you do with an effectively end of life car that the owner probably doesn’t want to spend a lot of money fixing. I was explaining why it had rotted through after a year, not judging whether it was a good or bad thing for any individual car, as I said it’s cheap and gets another years ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 I've got a mildly crusty 01-05 civic, would it be grade 10.9 or 8.8 for replacement strut bolts? would go OEM but honda wants £50 for 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenmil Socket Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 On 11/9/2020 at 11:48 AM, Tenmil Socket said: Managed to put this together yesterday in the drizzle. It’s not finished yet. I still want to brace the corners with the excess* timber. I bought tarpaulin for three of the sides but it was about 20 cms too short. The packaging did say approximate dimensions but 20 cm! I eventually finished* this off. I know it's crap but my lad has been making thorough use of it. It was a bit cold last night though! R1152 and stripped fred 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Pastry Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 10 hours ago, Ged said: I've got a mildly crusty 01-05 civic, would it be grade 10.9 or 8.8 for replacement strut bolts? would go OEM but honda wants £50 for 2. If you can't re-use the old ones I think I would play safe and use 10.9 as it is suspension related, although that is probably OTT. Do check though that they are not special bolts with larger shanks or something - clearly they need to fit the holes properly, and that is probably more important than the tensile strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St.Jude Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 56 minutes ago, Tenmil Socket said: I eventually finished* this off. I know it's crap but my lad has been making thorough use of it. It was a bit cold last night though! If he's feeling the cold then he ain't working hard enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenmil Socket Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, sgtberbatov said: If he's feeling the cold then he ain't working hard enough! It was me that was cold 😁 St.Jude and puddlethumper 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolize Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 This is bugging me, what car is it on the other side of the road at about 11-12 seconds in? It looks like a 2017- Seat Ibiza but can’t be as it’s a clip from 2002/2003 I think FullSizeRender.mov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Cade Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 9 minutes ago, Petrolize said: This is bugging me, what car is it on the other side of the road at about 11-12 seconds in? It looks like a 2017- Seat Ibiza but can’t be as it’s a clip from 2002/2003 I think FullSizeRender.mov I'd agree with you.. don't remember swearing on Tracey Beaker though! 😯 stripped fred and Petrolize 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agila Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 13 minutes ago, Petrolize said: This is bugging me, what car is it on the other side of the road at about 11-12 seconds in? It looks like a 2017- Seat Ibiza but can’t be as it’s a clip from 2002/2003 I think FullSizeRender.mov Actual road rage was from 2018. Barry Cade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolize Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 17 minutes ago, Agila said: Actual road rage was from 2018. Ahh that sorts that out then, glad my childhood wasn’t ruined. Though I did like the H reg Fiat Uno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 12:21 PM, Mr Pastry said: If you can't re-use the old ones I think I would play safe and use 10.9 as it is suspension related, although that is probably OTT. Do check though that they are not special bolts with larger shanks or something - clearly they need to fit the holes properly, and that is probably more important than the tensile strength. +1 10.9 FTW, although 8.8 is unlikely to result in a killed to death scenario if you can't get them in 10.9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko220 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 I'm assuming that this is total cobblers. Anyone have a different view? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINTER-STORAGE-STOP-STALE-FUEL-LASTS-5-YEARS-ROVER-75-80-90-95-P5B-P6B-3-LITRE/350642035868?hash=item51a3e4dc9c:g:0DMAAMXQ9rVQ4j72 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazoli Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 35 minutes ago, Wilko220 said: I'm assuming that this is total cobblers. Anyone have a different view? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINTER-STORAGE-STOP-STALE-FUEL-LASTS-5-YEARS-ROVER-75-80-90-95-P5B-P6B-3-LITRE/350642035868?hash=item51a3e4dc9c:g:0DMAAMXQ9rVQ4j72 Its complete bollocks, just like this fucking advert that runs in the classic car rags every month Wilko220 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floatylight Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Torque Wrench guidance required. Having just returned a failed under warranty Magnusson to screwfix I'm in need of a replacement. Any recommendations for a reasonable 3/8 torque wrench for reasonable money, was looking at Teng Tools, any experience or recomendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Norbar or Sykes ( both the same now ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitsisigma01 Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 On 2/10/2021 at 12:08 PM, Jazoli said: Its complete bollocks, just like this fucking advert that runs in the classic car rags every month How much does it cost to place a b.s advert against how many they need to sell every month.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 +1 on Norbar for torque wrenches. twosmoke300 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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