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On 15 July 2019 at 6:49 AM, 5speedracer said:

I need to swap a speed sensor on my RE Interceptor (bike) and the cable goes into a block connector with several others. Question is, how do you get a connector out of a block connection?

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What do you call a " block connector"?  A picture would help.

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I am putting my E32 735i back on the road after a 1 year rest and it needs its power steering fluid topped up, the hand book says it also does the brakes somehow as well but when it comes to type of fluid it it says "BMW service stations know the factory approved grades". Anybody know for certain what fluid I should use?

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1 minute ago, Wingz123 said:

Anyone got any idea how I get these wiper blades off? They are 22" aero blade wipers on my Audi A6 Avant but didnt want to inadvertently break something if I'm not doing it right...

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On some of these aeros the bit covering the hook is on a hinge - lift it at the arm end and it should expose the wiper arm hook.

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12 hours ago, Wingz123 said:

Anyone got any idea how I get these wiper blades off? They are 22" aero blade wipers on my Audi A6 Avant but didnt want to inadvertently break something if I'm not doing it right...

20190918_184415.thumb.jpg.389917f89a14a0bceaa38a76e3228475.jpg

 

20190918_184411.thumb.jpg.7316bfa2816ec6e76d3ba74a0cbc4ee9.jpg

 

You might need to put the wipers into service mode, so they clear the bonnet. Depending on the age it's either in the onboard dash computer or you press the single sweep wipe after just taking the key out. 

Depending on the design, the aero blades can either simply unhook after bending the blade away or you remove a cover. 

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On 9/19/2019 at 7:48 AM, SiC said:

You might need to put the wipers into service mode, so they clear the bonnet. Depending on the age it's either in the onboard dash computer or you press the single sweep wipe after just taking the key out. 

So that is what is happening in my* Peugeot partner occasionally when it have taken the key out. 

Thanks for the information, now I know why.

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I have both 3/8" and 1/2" drive torque wrenches because they each cover a different range.  The 3/8" I naturally use where fastenings need to be evenly but lightly tightened, such as aluminium engine covers and the con rod / big-end bolts.  It's a nice and compact tool to handle and so I use it a lot.   But I use the 1/2" occasionally too because the 3/8" doesn't go up high enough for some cylinder head nuts, cam-belt adjusters, flywheel bolts, drive train and suspension parts which all too often have nuts requiring torquing to 80ft-lb or more.     Check workshop manual(s) of your own particular vehicles (presently owned and what you might reasonably aspire to) to see what range you're most likely to need.  I have used the down-sizing adapter on my 1/2" torque wrench  to 3/8" a few times so that I might use a more compact six-point socket,  but I've never used the up-sizing adapter on my 3/8" torque wrench.  

In case you are not aware : it's important to unwind the adjuster on each torque wrench fully after use (each time you put it back in your tool cabinet) so its internal springs do not take on a set (stretch). If it does then its calibration goes out the window.  

You can check the calibration when new ..and subsequently through the years, simply by clamping its square drive in a vice and hanging a known weight on the handle. Move that in or out until the torque wrench clicks and then the :  weight x distance = what the adjustment should read.  

Pete.

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We have an electronic torque/degree wrench in our workshop, it is probably good in production lines type stuff but generally folk find it too much of a faff about and just use old style micrometer wrenches and a degree reader if needed. Mebby if used more it would be easier to set.

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My trigger finger is hot.  Might actually buy a Rav 4tomorrow with a hangover.  Vehicle desperation is happening.  03 plate, high miles, estate version, family owned, history etc.  A grand.  Talk to me.  The bus (two every morning) can no longer happen.  Nightmare.  And as usual, there are no live sales on here.  So.....

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Smoll FL's C3 was diagnosed with a rusting through sump as part of the MOT, looks like a pattern replacement or second hand part are the same price, are the new ones made of best chinesium or are they Ok?

Also thinking about pressure washing the blocked DPF off the C4GP, any recommended chemicals that will release the grot? Oven cleaner? Egr cleaner?

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26 minutes ago, Floatylight said:

Smoll FL's C3 was diagnosed with a rusting through sump as part of the MOT, looks like a pattern replacement or second hand part are the same price, are the new ones made of best chinesium or are they Ok?

Can't speak of the exact pan you need but the pattern sump I bought for the astra earlier in the year was very well made out of nice thick material and came with a new sump plug and washer. Based on that experience I'd have no hesitation in buying a pattern sump again. My old sump was so rotten when I went to undo the plug to drain the oil I ripped a chunk of rusty metal out of the sump rather than unscrewing the plug!

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I’ve got a Lexus with air suspension (which gives me the fear) and recently it’s been making a noise like a ball joint is on the way out, just a god awful creak, but only when I turn right. But no other symptoms of a worn ball joint. Tonight I raised the car to high mode, just on a whim, and the creak seems to have gone.

Do you think this could be an early sign of an airbag on the way out, or that last time it lowered it folded weirdly (if that’s even possible?)




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