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^ If that's 7.7 kw @ 230v (single phase / household) then its current is 30 amp ..so likewise I agree it ought to.  The fuse in the mig welder is unlikely to be more than that, otherwise it would trip a home's fuse box (for where the welder was designed to be used).

 

Bfg

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Barnsley That's up even further north than Northampton isn't it ?? :mrgreen:

 

I'm interested in a set of four wheels from up there, no tyres so just crusty 15" x 5" steel wheels, being offered on ebay. 

 

The seller won't stick em in a box and says a courier would cost too much. So is anyone able to help get them from up there to down 'er in Suffolkshire. Ipswich IP6.?   ;)

 

..or perhaps someone might collect them and wrap them as two parcels for MyHermes to collect ? 

 

Thanks, Bfg.  

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Barnsley That's up even further north than Northampton isn't it ?? :mrgreen:

 

I'm interested in a set of four wheels from up there, no tyres so just crusty 15" x 5" steel wheels, being offered on ebay. 

 

The seller won't stick em in a box and says a courier would cost too much. So is anyone able to help get them from up there to down 'er in Suffolkshire. Ipswich IP6.?   ;)

 

..or perhaps someone might collect them and wrap them as two parcels for MyHermes to collect ? 

 

Thanks, Bfg.  

If you can get them towards Newark I'll bring them back to Stowmarket

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Barnsley That's up even further north than Northampton isn't it ?? :mrgreen:

 

I'm interested in a set of four wheels from up there, no tyres so just crusty 15" x 5" steel wheels, being offered on ebay. 

 

The seller won't stick em in a box and says a courier would cost too much. So is anyone able to help get them from up there to down 'er in Suffolkshire. Ipswich IP6.?   ;)

 

..or perhaps someone might collect them and wrap them as two parcels for MyHermes to collect ? 

 

Thanks, Bfg.  

If you can get them towards Newark I'll bring them back to Stowmarket

I’m in Barnsley if it helps... could look to collect and wrap up for a courier or may be able to get Newark way (fairly regularly going to Lincoln at the moment)

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What is the best way to remove mould stains from here?

It's on a corsa so I could just set fire to it but my daughter wouldn't be happy.

4249ee2647e63803260d7db042bd328e.jpg

 

 

You could try white vinegar. Give everything a thorough clean and hoovering first, hopefully this will remove further mould spores. White vinegar in a spray bottle and a clean lint free cloth and a scrubbing brush. Bit of elbow grease. Allow the car to air out in the sun. Try to keep the interior of the car clean & dry.

 

Apparently a solution of lemon juice and salt in hot water is good for fabrics, but I've not tried that.

 

A lot of mould removers contain bleach or peroxide, both of which will fade or damage the trims & headliner, so avoid if possible.

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Quick query - are cheapo OBD2 fault code scanners any earthly use? Just looking something basic for a Mk1 Yaris with a 'check engine' light displaying.

 

Longer version of the same query - available on the AAS forum (I know not everyone checks in there).

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/35205-cheapo-ebay-obd2-readers-are-they-even-worth-trying-talk-to-me/?p=1793409

 

Merci.

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Quick query - are cheapo OBD2 fault code scanners any earthly use? Just looking something basic for a Mk1 Yaris with a 'check engine' light displaying.

 

Longer version of the same query - available on the AAS forum (I know not everyone checks in there).

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/35205-cheapo-ebay-obd2-readers-are-they-even-worth-trying-talk-to-me/?p=1793409

 

Merci.

 

I've bought 2 from eBay in the last year or so and they were both DOA.

 

My dad has one which will read my brother's Focus Mk1, but not his other half's Focus Mk2, reads dad's Discovery 3 but not mum's Jag XF and won't read my Saab.

 

Not sure if they're model or firmware specific.

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I have been using for the last 8 years or so the same ELM327 bluetooth device, one that looks just like this one:

 

https://img.staticbg.com/thumb/large/upload/2012/liangping/SKU082507%20(3).JPG

 

with great success on cars around MY 2000. Always read the codes, most of the times it can delete it, and also nice shiny displaying of various sensors. 

 

Right now it sits permanently in my Wagon R, because the VSS is not cooperating, and when the ECU figures out that there's no vehicle speed data it throws a tantrum and stops actuating the idle air actuator, dropping my idle as low as 450 rpm. So ELM in OBD socket, phone on cradle, Torque app running and as soon as I detect the dropping idle check faults and delete them.

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If you can get them towards Newark I'll bring them back to Stowmarket

 

 

I’m in Barnsley if it helps... could look to collect and wrap up for a courier or may be able to get Newark way (fairly regularly going to Lincoln at the moment)

 

Now that would be fantastic guys.!  The wheels are still for sale and I've sent the seller an offer.  Hopefully he'll reply soon and positively.  Then if  Si1881 would be so kind as to pick 'em up and co-ordinate with 95 quid Pug  then I'll be well away  ..or should that read wheel away  :)   

I'll be back to you as soon as I hear.  

Mucho gracias

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Has anybody on here used this stuff?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283315382498?ul_noapp=true

 

My headlights are bloody woeful, and on closer inspection, the reflectors have been spray painted silver, so I get a diffused light rather than a beam.

I was going to buy this and re-spray the reflectors.

Decent Phase 1 V70 headlights are getting hard to come by now, at a reasonable price anyhow.

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If you can get them towards Newark I'll bring them back to Stowmarket

 

 

I’m in Barnsley if it helps... could look to collect and wrap up for a courier or may be able to get Newark way (fairly regularly going to Lincoln at the moment)

 

re. four scruffy steel 15" wheels without tyres.  

 

Hi Guys., my offer was rejected ..but a counter-offer came through and I've accepted n' paid that.

I've dropped the seller a note asking for contact details to pass on to  si1881.. As soon as I have it I'll PM  you.. 

There's no urgency on my part, so whenever at both your convenience. ;)

 

Most grateful,

Bfg.

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Is there a difference between Saab 9-3 and 9-5 wheels? My 9-5 has 215/55R16 tyres and the 9-3 has 205/50R16. The 9-3 needs a new set so I was wondering if I could get a set of 215s and hopefully improve the ride comfort as the 9-5 is much smoother over the bumps.

I would normally take the wheels off and swap them over to see what happens but have medical problems so me jacking up two cars and undoing eight sets of wheel nuts is not allowed.

Whilst studying the tyres I noticed the 9-5 has three el-cheapo M+S and one Michelin summer tyre. Am I right in thinking that the Michelin is on a par with the others?

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Is there a difference between Saab 9-3 and 9-5 wheels? My 9-5 has 215/55R16 tyres and the 9-3 has 205/50R16. The 9-3 needs a new set so I was wondering if I could get a set of 215s and hopefully improve the ride comfort as the 9-5 is much smoother over the bumps.

I would normally take the wheels off and swap them over to see what happens but have medical problems so me jacking up two cars and undoing eight sets of wheel nuts is not allowed.

Whilst studying the tyres I noticed the 9-5 has three el-cheapo M+S and one Michelin summer tyre. Am I right in thinking that the Michelin is on a par with the others?

 

The alloy wheels fitted to my 9-3 I have seen also fitted to a 9-5. Fitting 215/55s to the 9-3 may make the speedo read out.

 

It may just be the set fitted to your 9-3 have very firm or stiff sidewalls, or aren't much cop. I have Avons fitted to the front of my 9-3, and they feel pretty good 

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2 Saab related questions. Z19DTH engine

 

1. Studying videos and internets on removing the fuel pump some sources say the fuel pump is timed as well, others say it's not. Which one is it?

2. New manifold comes with flap actuator motor and the sensor on the top - is this plug & play or do I need to retain my original for full compatibility?

3. what size are the engine mount bolt heads - E14 or E16?

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Has anyone else noticed the amount of cars driving round with rear number plates that have almost gone white? I'm assuming sun damage? It's typically on newer cars...

 

Seems to be brand new ones that I see with these plates , look weird

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Hi I'm a Bfg., and . . . . . . . . . .  I am a car 'project' addict. 

There I said it !

..  but I just can't help myself.    :?

 

Anyway., even before clearing what I already have unfinished in the garage - I'm craving my next fix.  This will be the last time  ..honest !  

 

But that's another story.  

 

Anyone familiar with American cars here ? Because for now I want to ask about U.S. automobile inspection or tax bumper stickers. . 

 

post-20151-0-37018400-1555700040_thumb.jpg

On a 1960's autom0bile presently in Arkansas car, this sticker clearly says  A.7604.  But would I be correct in thinking this means it was last registered, inspected or taxed for the road in Arkansas 1976 April.  ..Some 43 years ago this very month ?  Or are the numbers arbitrary and just as the vehicles were checked through the system ? 

 

Thanks

Bfg  ;)

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Can anyone recommend a good petrol-proof glue / sealant.

I bought a new petrol pump for the Maxi from Ebay (Moprod branded) and when fitted it leaked from the outlet pipe.

After removing it again and inspecting it I discovered that both the brass pipe stubs were only a finger-tight fit in the alloy pump housing. Presumably they should be pressed in and there is no trace of any glue or sealant on any of the parts. I messaged the seller asking them to replace it and they replied very promptly, but unfortunately don't have any more in stock, and even if they had they may all have the same problem. They immediately refunded the money and didn't ask for it to be returned, so I am wondering if I can repair it.

 

post-22043-0-58198700-1555846750_thumb.jpg

 

So what I need is a glue or sealant which will fix the brass pipes into the alloy housing and provide a petrol-proof seal. I thought of some variant of Loctite (maybe bearing fit) or Araldite, but don't know if either of these are resistant to petrol.

 

Anyone have any better ideas?

 

TIA for any suggestions.

 

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Loctite I think should hold once dried. I'd use the red permanent stuff though. Tigerseal may be fuel resistant too?

 

Problem is, if it fails, will it squirt neat fuel around the engine bay? Do you still have the original pump you could scavenge parts from?

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I'd get a bolt or screwdriver shaft that just fits in the brass bits. Then I'd very, very, lightly centre punch around the bit that fits in the body.

Then I'd loctite them in with the correct spec stuff.

Don't ask me what that is though.

 

Actually, I'd probably turn a small shaft a few thou bigger than the hole in the brass, press it inside then remove it, to swell the brass.

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^ Epoxy resin is highly resistant to petrol, so Araldite would work. (NB. Polyester resin is dissolved by the ethanol in modern fuels).

Anyway, I recently had a similar issue (it was actually the closing valve seat of a carburettor float bowl that was loose) and used  POR-15 petrol tank sealant. That worked great.

Bfg   

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My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

 

 

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

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Ah cool thank you. Didn't know if there was a different approach with the insert rubber. I'll keep persevering then :)
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I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

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Does anyone know the part number for the reverse light switch on a 1989 Metro VDP? I have bought two over the last year and neither fit. Pic of the original one and one that doesn't fit.

 

attachicon.gif20170429_134406.jpg

 

In position:

 

attachicon.gif20170410_183324.jpg

 

Ta.

If you get hold of a threaded sleeve (threaded inside & outside) to fit the new switch [too small thread for gbox] and correct fit into gearbox then you'd be sorted.

 

A bit of metal tube + liquid metal would be a SavvBodge© :)

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I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

 

I think it's partially marketing, partially psychological and partially the vendor offering a 'discount'.

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