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I think Mrs L1's first car (the Ginetta G26 whose rebuild is documented on motoscat) probably put me off SPCs. Entertaining for a while, but not a serious car.

 

*Silly Plastic Cars.

 

I believe the problem with plastic cars is neither with the car nor the design, but that the car builder using GRP bodies is usually under-financed to do the job properly, or else the car is built in such low volumes that things are never fully sorted out. 

 

Most are plastic tubs bolted atop a crude 1940's style chassis - so space is lost throughout the vehicle, its weight detracts from what might otherwise be a lighter vehicle, and the handling is compromised. Open top cars tend to fair better if they are designed to flex with the chassis. There are some fully plastic cars which never did well commercially but were worthy cars never-the-less.  Porsche 911 plastics,  Ferrari plastics, some Lotus and TVR's, and even the Davrian rally cars are worth a look at. 

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I'm not desperately soul searching for something to buy, a Scimitar just keeps rearing its head. I suspect i'll be disappointed with one but I guess that never stopped me before...... 

 

I'd agree, I kept looking and then I bought the best I could afford.  Personally I would award the George Medal to anyone keeping their Scimitar in a nice daily-driver condition. If nothing else they are Patrons of the Art (..in the finest tradition of automotive styling).

 

There are of course quite a number which were / are used for racing and even rallying, so those must be doing something mine never gave a to slightest  inclination to. !  < here >

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Anybody on here own or have experience of a Reliant Scimitar? 10 or so years ago, a friend was keen until he drove one and said it was poorly engineered such that it felt like a kit car. It put me off but a small part of me still quite fancies one. 

 

A well sorted Scimitar in standard spec is a half decent steer. I've owned an SE6 and SE6A. Once I'd done the suspension on them with new dampers, springs and bushes all round it transformed the feel of the car. Reasonably well balanced, TR6 derived front suspension and semi-independent rear, not as twitchy as many contemporary vehicles. Should accelerate briskly but not blow your head off. Surprisingly economical when touring, fit 4 in reasonable comfort, loads of luggage space. Great long distance tourer.

 

Manual with O/D are much more relaxed to drive on long distances, autos are not so great as 1:1 top means a busy engine at motorway speeds (3000-3500rpm) compared to the Manual O/D's 2000-2500 at 70. I changed the back axle in my SE6A to give 38mph/1000rpm, so really relaxed it and hit 41mpg on a long run.

 

Reasonably good owner's club, great spares availability.

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The Rover of Doom has developed an interesting* electrical fault.  I took it up the road earlier and noticed that the offside side & tail lights and the number plate lights weren't working.  Checked the fuse and sure enough it had blown.  Long story short, after a bit of faffing and several dead fuses, I discovered that if the tailgate is open, all lights work fine - number plate lights come on and all is well with the world.  I can lift the tailgate up and down to my heart's content and it's fine.  However, the moment the tailgate latches, pop! goes the fuse.  Also, not sure if related or not, but the HRW has stopped working.

 

Any ideas?

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The Rover of Doom has developed an interesting* electrical fault.  I took it up the road earlier and noticed that the offside side & tail lights and the number plate lights weren't working.  Checked the fuse and sure enough it had blown.  Long story short, after a bit of faffing and several dead fuses, I discovered that if the tailgate is open, all lights work fine - number plate lights come on and all is well with the world.  I can lift the tailgate up and down to my heart's content and it's fine.  However, the moment the tailgate latches, pop! goes the fuse.  Also, not sure if related or not, but the HRW has stopped working.

 

Any ideas?

Something is obviously shorting out, so look for a chaffed wire. Most likely where cables pass through holes and the grommets die over time.
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can i tax a sorn car over the weekend to start 1st april ? wanted to make an early start on the 1st so would be nice if i can pre pay

You can only do it the day before. Given tomorrow is the last day of the month then you should be able to tax it on line tomorrow to start Monday.
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Something is obviously shorting out, so look for a chaffed wire. Most likely where cables pass through holes and the grommets die over time.

 

Aye, I suspected that might be the case, but that doesn't explain why it's all fine until the tailgate latch touches the catch on the body.  Unless the latch mechanism has somehow become live, and is causing a short circuit when it earths against the catch?  It can't be the whole tailgate which is live as that'd be earthing through the hinges the whole time.

 

Multimeter session required, methinks...

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Anyone had any luck with any of the bumper restoration products? I tried some cheap ‘back to black’ type shizzle from Morrisons but it’s not done much. I have seen the heat gun trick but sure about that as there are other plastics bordering the bumpers.

boiled linseed oil works a treat 

 

heat gun ruins them eventually by leaching all the oils out the plastic

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had the Focus throw up P0420 code for the cat on Friday , cleared it , done some 200 miles on the M6 and twisty roads and the ELM has stayed off ....

 

glitch ?

Cat might be struggling. A good high speed journey probably gave it clean out and burn off of its internals. Especially if it's done a lot of low speed, short journey driving before hand.

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had the Focus throw up P0420 code for the cat on Friday , cleared it , done some 200 miles on the M6 and twisty roads and the ELM has stayed off ....

 

glitch ?

I'm getting the occasional spanner light on my v6 omega. P0170 and P0173 fuel trim.left and right.

Goes off. But stores codes.

 

I am using Your code reader btw.

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had the Focus throw up P0420 code for the cat on Friday , cleared it , done some 200 miles on the M6 and twisty roads and the ELM has stayed off ....

 

glitch ?

Sounds like a mismatch in readings between the pre cat and post cat sensor. Could be a cat thats not necessarily failing but slightly out of spec. Could very well also be the exhaust flex blowing. That would likely cause the light to come on.

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Aye, I suspected that might be the case, but that doesn't explain why it's all fine until the tailgate latch touches the catch on the body.  Unless the latch mechanism has somehow become live, and is causing a short circuit when it earths against the catch?  It can't be the whole tailgate which is live as that'd be earthing through the hinges the whole time.

 

Multimeter session required, methinks...

depends on paint/ grease on the hinges. And it may be touching somewhere else just as it latches. You could try covering the latch pin in insulation tape as that will tell you either way.
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OK, another one (this one probably better suited to the former title of this thread, but indulge me):

 

When doing an oil change on a potentially sludgy engine, would tipping a gallon of pez in the sump and leaving for a couple of days (without turning the engine over obvs) be any use for cleaning things out?  If not, is there anything else which would help and which wouldn't a. cost £100 a gallon or b. dissolve the sump gasket?

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dont think id do petty ....maybe diesel  , ive had good results running a litre of atf with the oil , drain /repeat with cheap stuff until its clear

 

if its not high tech then you could run it on neat diesel at idle and dump it out ....check out youtube 

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Are the links across the top going to be updated to find the new tags, the new forum sections, and so on?

 

Are the shitecycle and similar threads going to be moved?

 

Has the hidden/political section been created yet, and can I have access to it please?

 

Has a roffle tag been created in the for sale forum section?

 

Sorry to be a pain.  Ta

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.

My question is regarding punctures and spare wheels. .

 

Although I've had quite a few punctures and slow tyre deflation (due to poor sealing around corroded alloy wheels), I just re-inflate the tyre with an electric pump and then drive to a tyre centre.  The last time I changed a wheel, by puncture necessity, was not on my a daily driver but whilst on holiday in the old Jag in 2015.  Because I was at a festival and parked in the middle of a field I changed the wheel then, but prior to that I don't think I needed to do a roadside wheel change for donkey's years, and only once on a motorcycle.   

 

Might I ask, how often others have needed to do so, either by summonsing a breakdown service or on ones own ?   Do you still always carry a spare wheel ? and how often do you check it's still inflated ? 

 

Thanks, Bfg.      

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.

My question is regarding punctures and spare wheels. .

 

 

Might I ask, how often others have needed to do so, either by summonsing a breakdown service or on ones own ? Do you still always carry a spare wheel ? and how often do you check it's still inflated ?

 

 

I didn't have a single puncture in my first 20 years of driving, but in the last five years I've averaged about one a year.

 

I always carry a spare wheel, but never check it!

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.

My question is regarding punctures and spare wheels. .

 

Although I've had quite a few punctures and slow tyre deflation (due to poor sealing around corroded alloy wheels), I just re-inflate the tyre with an electric pump and then drive to a tyre centre. The last time I changed a wheel, by puncture necessity, was not on my a daily driver but whilst on holiday in the old Jag in 2015. Because I was at a festival and parked in the middle of a field I changed the wheel then, but prior to that I don't think I needed to do a roadside wheel change for donkey's years, and only once on a motorcycle.

 

Might I ask, how often others have needed to do so, either by summonsing a breakdown service or on ones own ? Do you still always carry a spare wheel ? and how often do you check it's still inflated ?

 

Thanks, Bfg.

Most breakdown services require you to carry either a functional spare or a tyre repair gunk. If you don't, they can refuse to help.

 

I'd check the pressure of the spare at least every year or so. The one in my Boxster was completely flat. Good job I haven't had to rely on it!

 

My plan if I get a puncture is unless I'm on level, smooth and flat ground, I'll call out a recovery service. Way too dangerous changing a wheel on a busy road or motorway. Especially trying to jack it up with the crappy scissor jack and invariably failing to get the lug nuts off after a tyre monkey has done them up with an air impact!

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.

My question is regarding punctures and spare wheels. .

 

Although I've had quite a few punctures and slow tyre deflation (due to poor sealing around corroded alloy wheels), I just re-inflate the tyre with an electric pump and then drive to a tyre centre.  The last time I changed a wheel, by puncture necessity, was not on my a daily driver but whilst on holiday in the old Jag in 2015.  Because I was at a festival and parked in the middle of a field I changed the wheel then, but prior to that I don't think I needed to do a roadside wheel change for donkey's years, and only once on a motorcycle.   

 

Might I ask, how often others have needed to do so, either by summonsing a breakdown service or on ones own ?   Do you still always carry a spare wheel ? and how often do you check it's still inflated ? 

 

Thanks, Bfg.      

 

Most tyre places will sort a corroded alloy rim out for a few quid or donation to their tea & coffee fund. Worth doing if you know you've got a slow air leak and the tyre isn't damaged and the valve is good.

 

The only time I've called out a breakdown service to change a wheel is when I had a courtesy car. They couldn't find the spare and were about to leave until I spotted the aerosol can of get you home in a cubbyhole in the boot.

 

I always make sure I have a good spare wheel in my car. I don't check the pressure that often though because I forget and it's a hassle to get out - every 3-4 months probably - but it rarely gets below the specified pressure.

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