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The ignition leads on my Rover 820 are the originals, 27 years old and the car has covered 150k miles. So I thought it would be a good idea to replace them. Found a set of Mafco leads on Ebay which claim to be OEM, and they were delivered today. As I have had dud components delivered before. I decided to test them for resistance and see how they compared with the old leads before fitting them.

 

I have a digital meter and an analog meter. The resistance of the new leads is infinite.No electrical signal gets through from one end of the lead to the other. All the leads, the king lead and the four plug leads are the same. They all read zero.

 

Am I missing something here? (Apart from a decent set of leads?)

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The ignition leads on my Rover 820 are the originals, 27 years old and the car has covered 150k miles. So I thought it would be a good idea to replace them. Found a set of Mafco leads on Ebay which claim to be OEM, and they were delivered today. As I have had dud components delivered before. I decided to test them for resistance and see how they compared with the old leads before fitting them.

 

I have a digital meter and an analog meter. The resistance of the new leads is infinite.No electrical signal gets through from one end of the lead to the other. All the leads, the king lead and the four plug leads are the same. They all read zero.

 

Am I missing something here? (Apart from a decent set of leads?)

 

What do the original leads read?

 

I've never tried testing leads with a meter.

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The ignition leads on my Rover 820 are the originals, 27 years old and the car has covered 150k miles. So I thought it would be a good idea to replace them. Found a set of Mafco leads on Ebay which claim to be OEM, and they were delivered today. As I have had dud components delivered before. I decided to test them for resistance and see how they compared with the old leads before fitting them.

 

I have a digital meter and an analog meter. The resistance of the new leads is infinite.No electrical signal gets through from one end of the lead to the other. All the leads, the king lead and the four plug leads are the same. They all read zero.

 

Am I missing something here? (Apart from a decent set of leads?)

If they read zero then they are fine if they read 1 then it is open circuit. Test you meter by touching the 2 probes together and it should then read zero, but with them apart it will read 1 or something like that.

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My digital meter reads 1 when I do not touch the leads together. Touching the leads together, it reads 0.003 due to the resistance in the meter leads. Testing the ignition leads, it reads 1. So I reckon all the ignition leads are open circuit!

 

As for leaving it for another 27 years, I doubt that I will be here then. I will try just swapping the king lead before I send them back.

 

Thanks all.

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My digital meter reads 1 when I do not touch the leads together. Touching the leads together, it reads 0.003 due to the resistance in the meter leads. Testing the ignition leads, it reads 1. So I reckon all the ignition leads are open circuit!

What scale are you set on? Supressed leads can have resistances in the Mega-ohm range, which is not a problem as of course the ignition pulse may be many kV, but is uA, so the resistance of the leads can be high.

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How may posts do i need on Autoshite, before i can make a thread in the For Sale section?

I cant seem to find this answer anywhere else on the forum???

Cheers.

 

There isn't a section as such, just tag the new topic when you post it.

 

post-20217-0-98352100-1548518980_thumb.jpg

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Tickman, The Moog and Hooli, thanks for your help.

 

I guess i was being a dumbass, cause i was going to the For Sale section(at the top of the forum) to try to post a thread, but couldnt see anything, like start new thread here.

So i just need to start a new thread in the forum, and tag it for sale, then it automatically goes in the For Sale section.

Cheers.

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Tickman, The Moog and Hooli, thanks for your help.

 

I guess i was being a dumbass, cause i was going to the For Sale section(at the top of the forum) to try to post a thread, but couldnt see anything, like start new thread here.

So i just need to start a new thread in the forum, and tag it for sale, then it automatically goes in the For Sale section.

Cheers.

 

There is no for sale section.

They are just tagged threads in the forum.

Clicking the link at the top of the page just selects all the topics with that tag.

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Talbot said:

 

"What scale are you set on? Suppressed leads can have resistances in the Mega-ohm range, which is not a problem as of course the ignition pulse may be many kV, but is uA, so the resistance of the leads can be high"

 

 

I did wonder about suppressed leads, as I have no experience with them. The leads are definitely not copper cored and the packaging tells me that they are suppressed leads. So this may well be the reason I cant get a meter reading.

 

Will try tomorrow to swap the King lead and take things from there. If the engine runs OK, I will swap the rest over. Thanks.

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Tickman, The Moog and Hooli, thanks for your help.

 

I guess i was being a dumbass, cause i was going to the For Sale section(at the top of the forum) to try to post a thread, but couldnt see anything, like start new thread here.

So i just need to start a new thread in the forum, and tag it for sale, then it automatically goes in the For Sale section.

Cheers.

If you edit the first post in the thread you can add the for sale tag to that thread.

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I need to replace the brake pads on the wifes 2011 mini, do I need any special tools or to be able to plug in.

 

I dont usually work on anything modern and I have lots of tools but not for this modern electronic age shite.

 

Unless it requires a code reader to remove a low pad sensor warning, it should be a case on most moderns of swapping the pads over as any other car.

 

Have a look first as you might need weird spanners or sockets for star head bolts or something equally stupid.

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I need to replace the brake pads on the wifes 2011 mini, do I need any special tools or to be able to plug in.

I dont usually work on anything modern and I have lots of tools but not for this modern electronic age shite.

You may need a tool to wind the pistons back in, never worked on a bini but lots of moderns need one. You can get away with it with a pair of needle nosed pliers though but it’s a ballache.
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Two questions:

 

First, can the first post of a thread be edited using tapatalk to change the title?

 

Chuck uses tapatalk on her phone and couldn't figure it out.

 

Secondly, Xantia handbrake. Should the upside down J move back to a released position, like it was spring loaded, or does it just sit there without tension on it?

 

post-17457-0-67919200-1548593773_thumb.jpg

 

post-17457-0-61066400-1548593796_thumb.jpg

 

Even without the cable in the slot it just sits there.

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Bit of a long shot this but the collective wisdom of the AS massive has surprised me many times in the past, so...

 

Saab 9-3 floppytop (old shape) - driving on the dual carriageway, on what is an unusually blustery day, at anything above about 65 I was getting a loud whistling noise from somewhere round the top of the windscreen - it wasn't a "normal" wind-related whistle, it sounded more like somebody playing a single note on an oboe or something. 

 

I assumed the air must be getting in through the seal somehow and then something inside the latching mechanism was acting as a reed, but when I stopped to check I couldn't see any obvious gaps.  I bought a roll of tape anyway and taped all along the front of the hood where it seals to the top of the windscreen, but that made no difference at all - my monotonous oboeist was still there,  It's definitely floppytop related though because as soon as the catches are released even slightly, the noise disappears.  Strangely, operating the screen wash also mutes it temporarily.  As the tree said to the lumberjack, I haven't got a fucking clue.

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Got some Ford Recaro seats, that have been sitting in a Slightly damp council garage.

They've gone a tad frilly (some sore of soft mould)

What is the best way of cleaning this off, and ensuring it doesn't return ?

 

As I don't wish to become I'll, once I've fitted them to the 110.

Use a spray bottle with white vinegar to wet the mouldy areas,leave for a minute,then wipe the mould off.
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First, can the first post of a thread be edited using tapatalk to change the title?

 

Chuck uses tapatalk on her phone and couldn't figure it out.

 

No.

 

When I needed to do that mid collection thread I managed to get into the full site on the phone's browser to do it. I'm told the mobile version of this site is quite good now, but I didn't see it as my phone displayed the desktop version.

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Bit of a long shot this but the collective wisdom of the AS massive has surprised me many times in the past, so...

 

Saab 9-3 floppytop (old shape) - driving on the dual carriageway, on what is an unusually blustery day, at anything above about 65 I was getting a loud whistling noise from somewhere round the top of the windscreen - it wasn't a "normal" wind-related whistle, it sounded more like somebody playing a single note on an oboe or something. 

 

I assumed the air must be getting in through the seal somehow and then something inside the latching mechanism was acting as a reed, but when I stopped to check I couldn't see any obvious gaps.  I bought a roll of tape anyway and taped all along the front of the hood where it seals to the top of the windscreen, but that made no difference at all - my monotonous oboeist was still there,  It's definitely floppytop related though because as soon as the catches are released even slightly, the noise disappears.  Strangely, operating the screen wash also mutes it temporarily.  As the tree said to the lumberjack, I haven't got a fucking clue.

 

Top of the side windows? releasing the roof catches would affect that gap too.

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