Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

This is purely out out if interest and nothing to do with me. But.

A friend has just bought a BMW Z3 sight unseen on eBay with the intention of turning it into an AC Cobra replica using the Kobra kit. (Yes, I know....)

He says the body has plenty of rust scabs and looks a bit shit but 'hopes' it is structurally sound. Hmmm.

Have no experience of these things so is he in for a world of pain potentially? Are they known for disintegration?

It is a fairly early 2.2 I believe.

Surely once he's chopped off all the outer skin it's structural integrity will be questionable anyway?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a replacement PAS pressure switch for my Mondeo (used but supposedly known good). I sealed it in with PFTE. However, as with the old one it is leaking straight through the electrical connector (not where it joins with the PAS pipe) as in the 3rd pic  :-(. Any ideas please?

 

I really wish I hadn't changed the fluid!

 

attachicon.gifDSCF9240.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCF9242.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCF9244.JPG

 

Its fucked - need a new one.

 

[bodge] figure out if the switch is normally-open or normally-closed when in use and either leave unplugged or bridge the loom plug with a little bit of wire as appropriate[/bodge]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its fucked - need a new one.

 

[bodge] figure out if the switch is normally-open or normally-closed when in use and either leave unplugged or bridge the loom plug with a little bit of wire as appropriate[/bodge]

 

Yeah, not cheap over here, but generic to a few 90's Ford - so rockauto might do me a cheap aftermarket. Cheers. As this is a car for life* got to be done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Surely there should still be some in scrapyards?

 

Newer ones are available cheap enough....

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Direction-Assist-e-Capteur-De-Pression-D-huile-Pour-Mondeo-Mk4-S-max-Galaxy-FORD-MONDEO/32858261776.html

but the wiring loom plug is different, so you could always just change the loom plug?

 

iirc all they do is raise the idle speed a little on full lock, so not massively important....if you have a non working spare you could plug the inlet hole up with chemical metal and screw it in as a planking plug until you get a replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the aliexpress one is the newer sort, which are a lot cheaper. The car needs a visit to the auto spark for various issues, so could be an oppo to get this loom plug changed too.

 

The way I knew something was up was the poor idle. But then anything can cause poor idle on a Zetec.

 

This one from Australia looks right for £15 imported!

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-Steering-Rack-Pressure-Switch-suits-Ford-Falcon-EA-EB-ED-EF-EL-AU-NA-DA-NC/132195208437

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have recently acquired a number of air tools including a MAC ASD Air Spot Drill. I assume it is for drilling out spot welds or drilling holes in preparation for them. However, I can't get the bit holder apart and, from its size, I also assume it takes a very short drill bit. Any help or places that may have more info?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought that the dips always stayed on with the main? I don't recall ever seeing a car where they turn off.

 

Depends on the car -

 

4 headlight capris and alfa gtvs only have a single filament bulb in each of the 4 so keep the dips on.

 

my 4 headlight AMC along with Jags, Rollers, Scimitars Sierras (Ford not Dutton or GMC) etc, had a dual filament outer - so they switched to the main beam for all four on main beam and extinguished the dip filament (on the outers, inners are main beam only unless someone's been tinkering).

 

In most 2 headlight setups dip goes out when main is selected - but to a bystander the lights are of course still "on".

 

<Trivia>  Current Jag chod has factory xenons with a wee solenoid that moves the dip shutter on main beam* - effectively an electro-mechanical dip, like prewar Lucas - 

http://www.rogerj.co.uk/dipping.htm

 

* currently only working on one side because Jaag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone identify the burnt out component on this circuit board? And what are the chances of replacing it for somone who can twist and solder wires reasonably competently.

It's a capacitor. Is there anything written on the other side of it?

Easy enough to replace, just walk it out by heating one leg at a time and pulling on it until it comes out. Clear the holes with solder braid or a solder sucker (or a 1mm drill bit) and replace with a new one of whatever it is. Might not fix it though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone identify the burnt out component on this circuit board? And what are the chances of replacing it for somone who can twist and solder wires reasonably competently.

Looks to me like you might have at least 3 dubious components, two of the capicitors on the left look like they have started to split their tops which means they are drying out also the components towards the back in the metal can...

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought that the dips always stayed on with the main? I don't recall ever seeing a car where they turn off.

I had a car that turned the front fog lights off when you used the main beam

 

mk2 cavalier CDi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...