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Radio Codes.

I've just managed to buy back my mighty Citroen ZX that's been through a couple of owners on here in last few months.

Whilst google is my friend I can't seem to find the correct radio code procedure.

I think I've the correct code which I can tease into it using presets. But can't remember which button confirms the code

Ta.

The top of the big square button.
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I'm having a bit of a war trying to get a VW Golf MK4 1.6 8v to run nicely. It keeps running very slightly lumpy at a slow constant speed (eg 30mph) but is fine accelerating, idling or cruising at 60mph  it will sometimes throw an eml with the code P0130 which is for the pre-cat oxygen sensor.

 

I've been working on the assumption that this is a symptom of the problem rather than the cause as it's also previously given a code for running too rich. It was running really badly but changing the crank sensor got it running reasonably and got rid of a code.

More often than not I just get the code for the O2 sensor and not the one for running rich. 

 

So far as well as the crank sensor it's had the timing belt changed as it was due for replacement and timed up correctly with new tensioner and water pump, all 4 spark plugs and the injector rail and coil pack as I had spares sat around but to no avail.

 

I'm going to take the MAF out and clean it but does anyone else have any other ideas? Should I just change the O2 sensor?

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Just took it out to get a kebab and it ran with only a minor miss there but ran horribly on the way back, low on power and jolty and anything. I forgot to mention that it's an auto if that makes any difference.

 

On another note, does anyone have the Haynes manual for a Citroen Xsara? I'm about to do the timing belt on a 1.6 8v and want to have info on timing marks and the tensioner to hand.

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If you were needing to be welding your Triumph Acclaim's chassis legs back into existence what sort of thickness of sheet steel would likely be required? We're talking early 80s Japanese design here so panel skins are like tinfoil but I suspect the chassis to be slightly thicker, like two layers of tinfoil...

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whats the best way to introduce new technology like a Smart phone  to your other half with out causing a divorce ?

 

Explain how handy smart phones are for secretive gambling or on-the-bog porn viewing.

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I watched the, admittedly comedic, Bodgitt n Leggit Utoob = Fiesta front wbearing/pressing out & in.

 

Now, when they pressed the hub out of the bearing, it 'pongedd' and half the inner race jammed on the hub >> yes it always happens as the inner half is being pulled out of the goosed bearing.

 

However, more concerning, he pressed the new bearing in using a socket resting on the inner race (not how I thought you should = with an old bearing shell on the very outer race)

 

Is this shite working and might damage the bearing/fails/noisy.. ?? :(

 

https://youtu.be/yDBMYGxz-YI

 

TS

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I'm having a bit of a war trying to get a VW Golf MK4 1.6 8v to run nicely. It keeps running very slightly lumpy at a slow constant speed (eg 30mph) but is fine accelerating, idling or cruising at 60mph  it will sometimes throw an eml with the code P0130 which is for the pre-cat oxygen sensor.

 

I've been working on the assumption that this is a symptom of the problem rather than the cause as it's also previously given a code for running too rich. It was running really badly but changing the crank sensor got it running reasonably and got rid of a code.

More often than not I just get the code for the O2 sensor and not the one for running rich. 

 

So far as well as the crank sensor it's had the timing belt changed as it was due for replacement and timed up correctly with new tensioner and water pump, all 4 spark plugs and the injector rail and coil pack as I had spares sat around but to no avail.

 

I'm going to take the MAF out and clean it but does anyone else have any other ideas? Should I just change the O2 sensor?

Is this one of the engines that like to have the throttle body cleaned and reset at regular intervals?

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I could have put this in the grumpy thread, but I do have two questions relating to our journey home from Brighton this morning.

On the A27 from Beddingham roundabout to Polegate we followed a BMW X5 on 67 plate and it didn’t go over 40mph the whole way and the road in front was clear as far as could be seen. Road is single carriageway and NSL (60mph). Unfortunately there were no gaps in oncoming traffic to allow Mrs Concern to overtake in the Moodus despite it sporting a healthy 105bhp so we had to sit behind it. So question no one is, would this fail the driving test for not keeping up with the traffic?

Second question is when following the said huge, new BMW, it dodged all over the road in order to miss any irregularity in the road surface, not just pot holes, but any dents and surface imperfections that you get everywhere. So second question is do these behemoths really ride so bad that the driver need to drive all over the road to miss any road surface less than billiard table smooth?

 

TLDR; Q1, Would it be a failed driving test for doing 40mph on a NSL  road?

Q2; Does a 67 plate BMW X5 ride so badly that it justifies driving around every slight imperfection in the road?

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1) Requirement was to be to demonstrate you could drive at speed anything over 50 would do and you would be instructed to do so by the tester (usually on a dual carriageway).

There's no minimum speed limit and doing 40 would not seem to be unduly slow, the NSL isn't a target and shouldn't be treated as such.

 

2) quite possibly, have you seen the amount of camber on the rear wheels on X5 type things? They would make an aircooled dubber jealous.

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OK, pre-cat and pre-hardened valve seat fuggers......Who knows about Lead Replacement Jizz?  

 

Been using Castrol Valvemaster Plus since it came out/became necessary* but its now NLA.   

 

My question is what to use instead?    I am aware that there is evidence to suggest none needed but I want to continue because I am a superstitious old bastard.

 

Back when all the unleaded hoo-hah began with regard to old motors we were advised not to mix types of LRP additive.  In other words - the chemical composition should be the same if it became necessary to switch brands.... 

 

Now its all gone a bit quiet and FBHVC website doesn't seem to address the issue.   Tried the AA techy helpline thing but that was vaguer than a worn-out Cambridge steering box. 

 

I know the Castrol jungle-juice was potassium-based so it should* be a simple matter of finding another.   Except no manufacturer's website seems to give the info I need.... 

 

Anybody know?      

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That would seem to be more logical but something in the back of my mind reckoned otherwise - to do with deposits reacting or summat....Probably just run a clean tankful through with straight unleaded and take a chance.    Lots of this stuff does turn out to be merely theoretical anyhoo.

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OK, pre-cat and pre-hardened valve seat fuggers......Who knows about Lead Replacement Jizz?

 

Been using Castrol Valvemaster Plus since it came out/became necessary* but its now NLA.

 

My question is what to use instead? I am aware that there is evidence to suggest none needed but I want to continue because I am a superstitious old bastard.

 

Back when all the unleaded hoo-hah began with regard to old motors we were advised not to mix types of LRP additive. In other words - the chemical composition should be the same if it became necessary to switch brands....

 

Now its all gone a bit quiet and FBHVC website doesn't seem to address the issue. Tried the AA techy helpline thing but that was vaguer than a worn-out Cambridge steering box.

 

I know the Castrol jungle-juice was potassium-based so it should* be a simple matter of finding another. Except no manufacturer's website seems to give the info I need....

 

Anybody know?

We're running a flashlube system on LPG converted vehicles, seems to work as the lexus has turned 100k on gas without valve problems (touch wood)

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