dave21478 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 They are adjustable by about four feet, not a few inches like a drop plate. Its for hitching to a car and/or a large truck, which usually has a towball fitted at waist height.Pretty common in Europe on plant and transporter trailers so they can be towed by a 4x4 or a 6 tonner. artdjones, Scruffy Bodger, warninglight and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 OK, very stupid question time. This here is a track rod end on a Peugeot 205:That hex bit which looks like a lock nut - is it in fact a lock nut which has completely rusted onto the tie rod, or is it actually part of the tie rod itself? None of the parts in the photo is showing any inclination to move, despite soaking in GT85 all week and liberal application of heat. Annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Part of the tie rod. I think its to grip while adjusting the tracking. I've just been doing the same, disconnected the tre to take the hub off a bit while I do the CV. Knackered the boot as you do in the process. £2.50 kit to swap the boot from car spares, finish it off tomorrow. If the pinch bolt snaps, as it has done before, I might just commit an atrocity. Judicious soaking for a few nights in releasing fluid should avoid this hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraser.innes.3 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 OK, very stupid question time. This here is a track rod end on a Peugeot 205: IMG_20180324_165433.jpg That hex bit which looks like a lock nut - is it in fact a lock nut which has completely rusted onto the tie rod, or is it actually part of the tie rod itself? None of the parts in the photo is showing any inclination to move, despite soaking in GT85 all week and liberal application of heat. Annoying.It a nut that tightens up to the track rod. Sent from my HUAWEI M2-A01W using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraser.innes.3 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 OK, very stupid question time. This here is a track rod end on a Peugeot 205: IMG_20180324_165433.jpg That hex bit which looks like a lock nut - is it in fact a lock nut which has completely rusted onto the tie rod, or is it actually part of the tie rod itself? None of the parts in the photo is showing any inclination to move, despite soaking in GT85 all week and liberal application of heat. Annoying.Wire brush all around it before putting penetrating fluid on it. Also I have only ever successfully used heat to break these with an oxy acetelyne torch as you have to get it cherry red. A blow torch just does not provide enough heat! Sent from my HUAWEI M2-A01W using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 I'd be tempted to save the fucking about, wind the axial rod off the rack, these aren't dear, usually about £15 or so. Be sure to put some loctite on the thread. Then make sure you grease the threads through at the tie rod end. Once you've had the oxy on the lock but its scrap anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsuncog Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Quick brake question: Mk3 Cortina 1.3 x-flow: when bought it pulled to the right under heavy braking. Not ideal. It's now had new discs fitted (uprated Capri vented jobs), refurbed calipers, new pads, shims, braided hoses and a thorough fluid change - and still it pulls to the right under heavy braking. Fine at low speeds, and no odd noises. Just a pull. And there's no evidence of any bodged crash repairs that I can see either - all looks original around the inner wings. All thoughts/advice/prayers gratefully received. MOT tomorrow afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 swap tyres round and try again- just cos it pulls when braking doesn't always mean bad brakes twosmoke300 and Datsuncog 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsuncog Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Sorry, should have said - new wheels and tyres also fitted. Wheels have been swapped round a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave21478 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 It will be either worn suspension bushes which flex and change alignment/geomotry under braking or a failing shock absorber. Talbot, chaseracer and Datsuncog 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Check for any kinks in the brake pipes . Will allow even braking under light application but will pull when you ask for more fluid flow / pressure Datsuncog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsuncog Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Cheers for the suggestions, folks! Further investigation has revealed a perished bush on the n/s suspension assembly, so looks like this is the likely source of the pull - and fitting an uprated PU bush kit is next on the list of jobs. Still going in for the test tomorrow, as best to know if there's any other nasties lurking. Apparently it's fine at urban speeds, just wanting to pull during heavy braking from 50 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 It may pass, might not show on the rollers. Datsuncog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Imperial sized impact sockets. Where the hell do you buy them? Literally can't find any decent ones, anywhere. Even at the classic car shows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Also I bought an impact wrench that takes 1/2" sockets. However it appears many sockets are 3/8". Have I bought the wrong one and should have got a 3/8" drive impact wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaseracer Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 It will be either worn suspension bushes which flex and change alignment/geomotry under braking or a failing shock absorber. Is it the mk3 that uses void bushes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Imperial sized impact sockets. Where the hell do you buy them? Literally can't find any decent ones, anywhere. Even at the classic car shows.What do you call decent? Either get a cheap mixed set or donate an organ. Choice is yours. Plenty of imperial stuff available in all qualities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike60 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 For 3 years I've had a scuzzy high mile 530d estate with dodgy jacking points. A couple of weeks ago despite being asked not to use them the tyre fitter did just that and collapsed a front up into the sill. My question is when I repair it does it need the jacking point repairing for the MOT or can I just plate over the hole and carry on using the X-member to lift it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairymel Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Also I bought an impact wrench that takes 1/2" sockets. However it appears many sockets are 3/8". Have I bought the wrong one and should have got a 3/8" drive impact wrench? something like this would do probably - also has a 1/2"to 3/8" adapter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Impact-Socket-Set-35pce-metric-imperial-automotive-air-gun-633802/152127482018?epid=1805249560&hash=item236b8128a2:g:O2IAAOSwrklVMkF5 SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artdjones Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Wire brush all around it before putting penetrating fluid on it. Also I have only ever successfully used heat to break these with an oxy acetelyne torch as you have to get it cherry red. A blow torch just does not provide enough heat! If you heat them to red hot you probably have weakened the rack end anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 OK, another stupid question: what's the rationale behind having to replace hub nuts with new ones every time you remove them? Is there a genuine reason like the threads stretching, or is it one of those slightly paranoid things like always replacing tyres in pairs? Reason I ask is because the rear drum on the 205 (which needs to come off, potentially more than once, to investigate the alleged lack of braking power) is held on by the hub nut, and I don't really fancy having to buy half a dozen hub nuts if I don't need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeRover Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 For 3 years I've had a scuzzy high mile 530d estate with dodgy jacking points. A couple of weeks ago despite being asked not to use them the tyre fitter did just that and collapsed a front up into the sill. My question is when I repair it does it need the jacking point repairing for the MOT or can I just plate over the hole and carry on using the X-member to lift it?No need to recreate them, just make it solid and seam weld where there wasn't a joint previously. OK, another stupid question: what's the rationale behind having to replace hub nuts with new ones every time you remove them? Is there a genuine reason like the threads stretching, or is it one of those slightly paranoid things like always replacing tyres in pairs? Reason I ask is because the rear drum on the 205 (which needs to come off, potentially more than once, to investigate the alleged lack of braking power) is held on by the hub nut, and I don't really fancy having to buy half a dozen hub nuts if I don't need them.Are those the ones where you bend the top of the nut to lock it into position? I don't think they're torque until yield things are they now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artdjones Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 OK, another stupid question: what's the rationale behind having to replace hub nuts with new ones every time you remove them? Is there a genuine reason like the threads stretching, or is it one of those slightly paranoid things like always replacing tyres in pairs? Reason I ask is because the rear drum on the 205 (which needs to come off, potentially more than once, to investigate the alleged lack of braking power) is held on by the hub nut, and I don't really fancy having to buy half a dozen hub nuts if I don't need them.The nut is ok but the ring on it you stake into the stub axle is damaged.On a 205 you can just swap them over side to side and an undamaged portion of the ring will be able to be staked into the notch.If they are just a big nut then there's no reason why they can't be reused as long as they are done up to the right torque and are otherwise undamaged. wuvvum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 if the hub nut is straked into a groove it is possible to do it back up to the damaged bit- but as suggested in another post if you have both sides off you could swap them roundmy montego had old ones reused and we saw no dead nuns or kittys wuvvum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artdjones Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Why is the list of members full of bots,or alternatively junior members who haven't logged on for over a decade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedracer Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Imperial sized impact sockets. Where the hell do you buy them? Literally can't find any decent ones, anywhere. Even at the classic car shows.Have you tried to get them from the U.S.? Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk cort16 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Depends which imperial he needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castros_bro Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 On a Peugeot 205 Is the radiator cooling fan resistor (two speed fan) the same resistor (resistance and connection) as the dipped beam resistor on older 205s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsuncog Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Why is the list of members full of bots,or alternatively junior members who haven't logged on for over a decade? Because internet. In seriousness though, I was also wondering what the chances might be of admin culling the obvious spambot accounts (i.e. the endless random alphanumeric usernames all generated over April/May 2013) - as they make it super-hard to browse the members' list when looking for actual members. Not sure whether at some point the number of registered forum users was held to be important, regardless of whether they were real users or not? I don't think that's the case anymore. I s'pose it depends whether it's considered to be a good use of admin time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artdjones Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Maybe it could be set do that any member who has never posted would be deleted if they haven't logged on for a year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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