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Need to tape a patch of felt over a hole in my loft roof, whats the motherfucking strongest and stickiest tape known to man ?

Depends what the felt is. Modernz felt can be joined with tape of the gaffa. Older-stylee bitumen-loaded fibre cannot be joined for love nor money. Well, certainly not for more than a few minutes anyway. Just long enough for you to *think* it has worked, when it hasn't.

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Bought a jack from SGS back in November Had issues with it getting to a certain height then wouldn't raise any more.

 

With no load it is fine, but under the car it only gets to 20cm rather than the proper 35cm.

 

I have topped up oil and also bled the jack but no massive difference.

 

They want me to return it which would cost £20. Plus if they decide it isn't a manufacturing fault then they will charge me.

 

Jack was only £30 in first place

 

Is there anything else I can do to fix it?

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Bought a jack from SGS back in November Had issues with it getting to a certain height then wouldn't raise any more.

 

With no load it is fine, but under the car it only gets to 20cm rather than the proper 35cm.

 

I have topped up oil and also bled the jack but no massive difference.

 

They want me to return it which would cost £20. Plus if they decide it isn't a manufacturing fault then they will charge me.

 

Jack was only £30 in first place

 

Is there anything else I can do to fix it?

Strip it down and replace all the seals. If they are just nitrile Orings they cost pennies. Same goes for ceramic disc taps.

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Does anyone know of places that could reproduce plastic light lenses?

 

I've given up with google, tried China (promising, until "we can reproduce lenses" actually meant "here's lots of generic lenses that you should use instead") and got bored of watching videos on how to do it myself (lack of time and skill).

 

If 3D printing can't do it could you get it milled out of a solid block of perspex?  Again it would involve either 3d scanning an original (expensive) or making a 3D model on a CAD program (tedious) unless there is someone out there with serious skill to do it by hand.

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What’s the deal with scrapping an LPG fitted car? Donut tank is in spare wheel well, and filller is a Polish one behind the filler flap so outwardly bar a grubby gas pipe you’d never know. Play daft or own up? Obviously if you can shift/want a mega mile beyond recommisioning E39 that’s sat 7 years let me know!

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What’s the deal with scrapping an LPG fitted car? Donut tank is in spare wheel well, and filller is a Polish one behind the filler flap so outwardly bar a grubby gas pipe you’d never know. Play daft or own up? Obviously if you can shift/want a mega mile beyond recommisioning E39 that’s sat 7 years let me know!

Breakers usually knock a fair bit off the price with a gas tank in as they are a PITA for them to get rid of.

What type of conversion is fitted and where are you?

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I've potentially got an early MK2 Ibiza diesel to view this weekend, weather dependant.

Non turbo.

Are they alright? I'm betting grim 90s diesel, but I love them.

 

Stuff to check :

 

- Rust, check everywhere but rear arches/ends of sills.are the most common and fail the MoT due to seat belt anchorage points.

- Gearbox, if it whines or struggles to select gears it's fucked. TADTS, and it's unlikely to be on the original box if over 100K. Diesel boxes are getting rare, so make sure it still has a diesel box with long ratios. Will be screaming at 70mph if not.

- Cambelt, make sure it's done at the correct time/mileage intervals because they do go if overdue.

 

VAG quality* means you're likely to find dozens of other, minor faults but they're generally easy and cheap to fix. 

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Stuff to check :

 

- Rust, check everywhere but rear arches/ends of sills.are the most common and fail the MoT due to seat belt anchorage points.

- Gearbox, if it whines or struggles to select gears it's fucked. TADTS, and it's unlikely to be on the original box if over 100K. Diesel boxes are getting rare, so make sure it still has a diesel box with long ratios. Will be screaming at 70mph if not.

- Cambelt, make sure it's done at the correct time/mileage intervals because they do go if overdue.

 

VAG quality* means you're likely to find dozens of other, minor faults but they're generally easy and cheap to fix.

 

Cheers buddy.

 

Think I'll have to abandon the viewing though as due to some issues with cars lately I'm going to stick to the ropey but known quantity 218 diesel in Bristol.

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Welding torch question

 

I've bought a mig welder but it's missing the torch , I've looked on ebay but just got confused , it's a euro plug apparently ,smartmig 152 is the model, are they all the same as in universal fit guns or have I got to buy one from the manufacturer

 

Expect a how long does welding arc eye last post sometime after arrival of the torch

 

Thanks

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Its a multipoint 6 cylinder Stag set up - I'm in Essex.

That's actually worth stripping off carefully and advertising on ebay or elsewhere, sadly I'm in Surrey otherwise I would be offering to remove it and dispose of it in a careful manner.

 

Have you tried a speculative advert on Gumtree I would have thought it would have had more value for export than the breakers would pay.

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Anyone know of a way to respond to Preloved.co.uk adverts with no contact details on? There is a car of a fair amount of interest but the site won't let me contact the seller until the advert is at least 12 days old.

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The fuck is this bullshit?

 

The Panda has these silly continental style fuses which have proved to be hopelessly unreliable in use....constant fiddling and cleaning of contacts required.... so while doing other stuff I sacked off the fuse box and fitted a newer one that takes standard blade fuses.

 

Now, blade fuses are colour coded for their rating...red is ten amp, blue is fifteen etc etc....thats fine and I had assumed these continental ones were too, but are they fuck.....

 

post-17837-0-19931900-1520150453_thumb.jpg

 

Left to right, the ratings stamped on the back of each fuse are 8, 8, 16, 8, 10, 10, 16, 16, 10, 16 which seems to match roughly the width of the fusible link, but the colours seem to be totally arbitrary....is that normal?

 

 

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Anyone know of a way to respond to Preloved.co.uk adverts with no contact details on? There is a car of a fair amount of interest but the site won't let me contact the seller until the advert is at least 12 days old.

 

Have you got full membership?

Have to pay £5? for full membership to reply early.

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Left to right, the ratings stamped on the back of each fuse are 8, 8, 16, 8, 10, 10, 16, 16, 10, 16 which seems to match roughly the width of the fusible link, but the colours seem to be totally arbitrary....is that normal?

 

Yes, trust the numbers (or the width of the fusible segment), not the colour !

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Mother's 1995 1.4 8v Astra has an oil leak from the back of the cam/distributor area - but I'm having fun finding out what part I need to fix it, bearing in mind it's a coil pack fitted where the earlier cars had an actual distributor. Is it an o-ring? A cam oil seal (all seem to be listed as fronts on eBay)

Thanks

 

attachicon.gif20180211_1457261.jpg[attachment=167625:20180211_1457341.jpg

 

Anyone?

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The fuck is this bullshit?

 

The Panda has these silly continental style fuses which have proved to be hopelessly unreliable in use....constant fiddling and cleaning of contacts required.... so while doing other stuff I sacked off the fuse box and fitted a newer one that takes standard blade fuses.

 

Now, blade fuses are colour coded for their rating...red is ten amp, blue is fifteen etc etc....thats fine and I had assumed these continental ones were too, but are they fuck.....

 

IMG_20180304_0859301.jpg

 

Left to right, the ratings stamped on the back of each fuse are 8, 8, 16, 8, 10, 10, 16, 16, 10, 16 which seems to match roughly the width of the fusible link, but the colours seem to be totally arbitrary....is that normal?

Aren't glass / cuntinental fuses rated at their continuous capacity and blades at their blow ? Or the other way round or I'm dreaming

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hmmm, that rings a bell actually.

 

Stuff like the headlights is easy enough, I can add up the watts used per circuit and work out the current drawn to find a correct rating...the other circuits, I think an edumacated guess going on the old fuse and wire thickness should suffice.

There isnt a lot to it electrically and I have a good fire extinguisher.

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