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OK - flat tyre on the SAAB - I didn't even notice earlier but they have locking wheel nuts on the rears (not on the fronts - weirdly) so what's the crack? I've heard of 'sacrificing a XXmm' - do I just twat on a ever so slightly smaller socket as far as I can and have at it - or is that last resort? If that fails - what's the option(s) left?

 

Stupid - but bloody annoying.

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I have a Rover 75 with 1 key.

I can get a key programmed for just under £100.

If I get a key or 2 keys cut, and stick the original near my ign lock.

Will I be able to unlock the car and start it with the cheap key.

Could ask on the Rover forum, but I know you won't laugh on here.

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OK - flat tyre on the SAAB - I didn't even notice earlier but they have locking wheel nuts on the rears (not on the fronts - weirdly) so what's the crack? I've heard of 'sacrificing a XXmm' - do I just twat on a ever so slightly smaller socket as far as I can and have at it - or is that last resort? If that fails - what's the option(s) left?

 

Stupid - but bloody annoying.

 

 

You can undo the 3 nuts, drive it back and forward a few times, not easy with the flat.

This will sometimes loosen the locking nut slightly. Then tighten the 3 nuts up agin

With all nuts tight, place a straight piece of round bar on the end of the offending nut and hit it hard with a lump hammer a few times.

Then smash an undersize socket on it as you say and try to undo.

Some locking wheel nuts revolve so socket idea wont work.

There are removal sockets available with a coarse LH spiral. May work, may not.

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Just a quick one : bleeding the brakes on an abs car - engine running or off ?

 

Off! IIRC doing it whilst running can get air into the ABS unit

 

Oh bollocks, it's been my smugly held belief that engine running for anything post '85 will safely avoid anything going wrong. Back to the hissy leaky Easibleed for me then.

Be very careful with bleeding ABS systems, they are NOT all the same. Just from my limited experience, early Pug 405 ABS units had to be bled while the unit was energised, otherwise you could end up with trapped air that can only be removed in a diagnostic mode (or some such other not-instantly-DIY-able nonsense). Some other systems have to have the pump cycled to let trapped air out. Many ABS systems will bleed without power, with the obvious exception of Citroen LHM fully-powered brakes, which will only bleed with the engine running to pressurise the system (although these are an obvious odd-case)

 

Check the individual instructions for that model ABS system. Clearly it has to be possible as fluid was introduced to a completely dry system when the car was built, but you need to know under what circumstances that was and what the procedure is.

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I have a Rover 75 with 1 key.

I can get a key programmed for just under £100.

If I get a key or 2 keys cut, and stick the original near my ign lock.

Will I be able to unlock the car and start it with the cheap key.

Could ask on the Rover forum, but I know you won't laugh on here.

A whole new key can be bought, cut and programmed in for £140. I had one done for the MG ZT.

Edit. Not sure if that is what you were asking tbh.

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Check the individual instructions for that model ABS system. Clearly it has to be possible as fluid was introduced to a completely dry system when the car was built, but you need to know under what circumstances that was and what the procedure is.

Most ABS modules I've seen when connected to a diagnostic machine have an option to actuate the pump motor and valve block to help purge the pump of air.

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I have a Rover 75 with 1 key.

I can get a key programmed for just under £100.

If I get a key or 2 keys cut, and stick the original near my ign lock.

Will I be able to unlock the car and start it with the cheap key.

Could ask on the Rover forum, but I know you won't laugh on here.

Yes, as long as the immobiliser antenna picks up the "old" key, and for as long ass it will recognise it. After that you will be able to unlock the car, turn the ignition key but no spark.

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I have a Rover 75 with 1 key.

I can get a key programmed for just under £100.

If I get a key or 2 keys cut, and stick the original near my ign lock.

Will I be able to unlock the car and start it with the cheap key.

Could ask on the Rover forum, but I know you won't laugh on here.

Old trick was to remove the chip from Knackered key and tape it near the antenna round the ignition barrel
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Thanks all, might get blank cut for a tenner and try it.

Been like that 12 months and never worried, but my son now borrows it now and then so we swop keys, leave it in the car with the door open etc. I know soon something will go amiss.

Don't really fancy paying £100 on something that might only be worth £150 tomorrow :)

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OK - flat tyre on the SAAB - I didn't even notice earlier but they have locking wheel nuts on the rears (not on the fronts - weirdly) so what's the crack? I've heard of 'sacrificing a XXmm' - do I just twat on a ever so slightly smaller socket as far as I can and have at it - or is that last resort? If that fails - what's the option(s) left?

 

Stupid - but bloody annoying.

I got all four wheels of a colleagues SaaB by hammering a socket over the sleeve. I used a small sledge hammer and a 12 point socket. It took a fair amount of force to knock the socket on as far as the bottom of the rotating sleeve because you have to compress that sleeve to grip the cylinder underneath. It may have been a 22mm socket but it was a few months ago so don't take my word for the size.

Don't use a breaker bar, the unbalanced force will just lever the socket off. Use a tommy bar or wheel brace with both hands so you are just turning. Makes a big difference.

 

Not easy to get the removed nut out of the socket, more hammering, spacers etc required.

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I wrongly thought this radiator belonged in a Mk one transit, so now in order to find a new home for it I need to identify it. After trawling through lots of pictures on the internet I've drawn a blank, any of the older patients here that can suggest what it belongs to? It's in excellent condition and up for grabs if you can use it.

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Decent 60s and 70s rads are getting hard to find and there's some horrible new stuff about. Size 530wide, 440 high, 265 between mounting bolt holes on side (quite an unusual thing in itself) inlet/outlet diameter 30mm.

 

The deeper 'tank' on the top looks very similar to the radiator in 320Touring's Oxford.

 

I can check but it will likely be Wednesday before I get there.

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Shitefest 2015. Some of us took a scenic route from Llangollen to Aberystwyth. Along the way was a country lane. Narrow with drops either side but steep uphill and could see road winding up . We also went over a stone bridge which I think now was elan reservoir. I can't find the road though or confirmation for sure if it was elan Res for definite. Want to take a road trip over weekend.

I guess I’m too late to be useful, sorry, but it was the Nant-y-Moch Reservoir: https://goo.gl/maps/R81YBAxQgTv

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I want to fit a retro car phone to my Safrane 1993/94 I would rather not have to drill holes for phone holders and only want it for appearance,what would be a period phone to buy?,I like the look of the brick style car phones but I think they might be more 1980s?

Renault have had a connection with Philips over the past years so maybe a Philips car phone....

I have an original Renault portable TV in the back so a nice retro phone would be a good match.

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Look into the BT phone styled handsets that plug into a smartphone, if you gut one of them to modify your car handset, add smartphone with charger cable and your old carphone can be functional.

For real authenticity you need to near ruin your car by tearing apart the interior and murdering back together, smash all plastic clips and fasteners, refit self tappers with a hammer, compromise seat belt operation, cross thread all bolts encountered, reduce the ignition main feed cable to no more than four strands with an inappropriate scotchcock pounded on with a brick and don't forget to rip the carpet in at least three prominent locations.

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For real authenticity you need to near ruin your car by tearing apart the interior and murdering back together, smash all plastic clips and fasteners, refit self tappers with a hammer, compromise seat belt operation, cross thread all bolts encountered, reduce the ignition main feed cable to no more than four strands with an inappropriate scotchcock pounded on with a brick and don't forget to rip the carpet in at least three prominent locations.

Aaaahhh... we have a Professional installer in our midst.

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....There are also 130w headlamp bulbs for sale for rally use but these are apparently not road legal.

 

Quite apart from legality, you'd need to check that your existing electrical system could take them without blowing fuses. I once tried 130ws in a pair of front fogs. Five blown fuses later, I went back to the standard bulbs.

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HID headlight kits make a huge differance, not entirly legal but cost £35 and took and hour to fit the differance really is like night and day. Never used to bother about crap headlights when I used to live in a big city but now I live in middle of nowhere they are essential especially with modern 4x4s coming at you with blinding lights.

 

I did buy some leds to try in the 940 but they wont fit because the rear of the bulb is huge and the volovos clip wont fit, they are a straight swop otherwise though and no extra wiring is required, however the HIDs can be fitted by anyone with minimal wiring knowledge.

HID MOT fail after May unless full headlight unit fitted.

 

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk

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Quite apart from legality, you'd need to check that your existing electrical system could take them without blowing fuses. I once tried 130ws in a pair of front fogs. Five blown fuses later, I went back to the standard bulbs.

See, that's the problem with modern cars, the DS has a seperate fuse for each headlamp dip and main = 4 fuses. Only two fuses for everything else on the car mind.

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Peugeot of last resort just passed MOT but one of the advisories is the state of the fuel tank strap. Sounds like the sort of simple job that even I could do or is it a right pain that it is much better to pay someone else to struggle with? Its a W plate 206 with 51k miles so worth keeping.

 

I replaced a rusted fuel tank strap in my '96 Laguna for its MOT back in 2014 using a strip of drilled galvanised steel, cut with a hacksaw and bent to size before refitting using new fasteners and some rubber pads. It was one of the more straightforward jobs I've carried out on that car. Three MOTs later, still sound and no issues.

 

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Cost: about a fiver.

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Anyone know of a person/company that could repair the rev counter on the dollop? It's started wandering a bit and jumping a few hundred rpm on occassions. It's all electronic on the sod and called : 'The Driver Information Panel' and to get repaired is, of course, effin' expensive (think £600 plus).

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Peugeot of last resort just passed MOT but one of the advisories is the state of the fuel tank strap. Sounds like the sort of simple job that even I could do or is it a right pain that it is much better to pay someone else to struggle with? Its a W plate 206 with 51k miles so worth keeping.

Done this and it was straightforward so long as the bolts aren't rusted up. Two bolts, diagonal strap part was about £10-£15. Obviously prop the tank up while doing it.

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206 tank strap is easy but the front of the strap has little tabs that fold around the seam of the tank . They are to hold the strap to the tank when they install in the factory I assume . The problem is is that there isn’t quite enough room to slide the strap forward to clear the tank . A bit of wiggle jiggle and bending is reqd

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Im going to need an in-line electric fuel pump for the Panda engine swap. There are many and various for sale on ebay, but I have a pierberg one sitting in the garage, although it was off a td4 Freelander. 

Will a diesel pump cope with pumping petrol? Will it turn into a flame thrower? will it miss the lubrication of diesel?

 

Looking at the ebay stuff, its all over the place, some adverts say pez, some say dizz, some say both.....

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