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Is there a 'pat pending' on... Rubber tube/rivet/razor nick [blade not required for operation] ?

 

After sawn off studs c/w blade slot (headgasket not moving!!) gotta to be simplest bleed accessory evva.

 

 

TS

Not sure if it is patented but it wouldn't matter if you were not making them for profit/production line. I've still got the two I bought many many years ago. If I ever needed to use them I would probably find they were perished but as you say very easy to copy.

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Anyone know if a H4 headlight bulb (combined dip and full beam bulb) and a H7 headlight bulb (dip beam only) are interchangeable into a headlight?

I mean will they physically fit into the same bulb holder on the rear of the headlight?

Reason I ask is because I'm fitting US lights on my Volvo which use separate dip and full beam light units.

If I use a standard H4 it would mean I'd end up with two lights per side with full beams which I don't want. I want to take the H4 out of the dip beam headlight and fit a H7 (dip only) but no idea if it'll fit in the headlight or not.

Yes, I think the bases are the same.
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Anyone tried after market LED headlights?

 

I'm considering one for my bike as the light is crap. I was running a HID for a bit but they don't quite fit in the bowl & crack the wires within months.

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You'll probably just want to use a H4 and modify the wiring

In theory there's no reason why I couldn't just use an H4 as intended, and wire in the lights original full beam sealed beam second light. This would give me two full beams, and one dip beam.

 

Would this blow the full beam fuse or cause other problems though as if I did that I'd be doubling the amount of full beam lights?

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In theory there's no reason why I couldn't just use an H4 as intended, and wire in the lights original full beam sealed beam second light. This would give me two full beams, and one dip beam.

 

Would this blow the full beam fuse or cause other problems though as if I did that I'd be doubling the amount of full beam lights?

Why not disconnect the full beam part of the existing H4s and connect it to the new full beams?

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Have we met ? How did you know my currency ?

 

It's one of those things that Is very hard to describe .

Using a pair of normal combination pliers !

Put one end in the hole in the caliper . Then grab the ear part of the other end twist until the other hole / clip is lined up . Push in .

 

See - easy

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Why not disconnect the full beam part of the existing H4s and connect it to the new full beams?

 

because the dipped beam will prolly go out so both filaments were not on

 

just make sure there is a relay in there- some cars did have twin mains- rover r8 i'm looking at you here

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Don't think this is a question for here as I don't think its stupid but didn't know where to stick it.

There's a 505 Gti on the bay, I'm sure its been noticed, and its at £1000 with four days to go with reserve not met and 17 bids. 

What does the beige collective think the reserve could be? 

I do have a certain amount of the filthy lucre lurking and and ooh! ooh! aargh! eek! WANT BAAADLY !!!!

Nearly change the underwear badly.

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What is the point of the Ford Ka+? As far as I can see it is almost exactly the same size and shape as a Fiesta.

Maybe to be a competitor to the Vauxhall Viva?

 

I guess they are now cheaper versions of the Fiesta/Corsa that have increased in retail price over the years.

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In theory there's no reason why I couldn't just use an H4 as intended, and wire in the lights original full beam sealed beam second light. This would give me two full beams, and one dip beam.

 

Would this blow the full beam fuse or cause other problems though as if I did that I'd be doubling the amount of full beam lights?

 

I'd use a relay and separate feed on the 2nd high beam, the same as spotlights are wired.

 

From memory the connections on a H4 are dipped+ main+ & common earth. So just don't connect the dipped+ on the inner lights. (from memory the top connector is earth, but I don't know which way around the others are).

 

This also gives you a spare H4 with working dip (in theory) that you can just swap into the outer lights if needed.

 

Also I have a feeling that more than two dipped beams is either a MOT or C&U regs failure.

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I'm considering purchasing an impact wrench, preferably second hand. What amount of torque is considered sufficient for general car use, such as getting rusty bolts off etc? I'm planning on changing both front wishbones and ball joints on the Bora, so I'd rather not struggle. Plus, it'd be handy to keep for other jobs too.

Get a secondhand snap on 18v one

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740 has a dual electric towbar. Fancy!

How do towbar electrics work though, if I plug the car into a camping hookup does it charge?

Black one is for the lights on the back of the caravan.

The white one is for charging the caravans leisure battery and that kind of stuff while travelling to your campsite.

 

Neither will connect the car to any kind of supply.

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Black one is for the lights on the back of the caravan.

The white one is for charging the caravans leisure battery and that kind of stuff while travelling to your campsite.

 

Neither will connect the car to any kind of supply.

Although if you want to try make sure someone videos it.

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Neither will should connect the car to any kind of supply.

 

I've known some that don't disconnect the power to the caravan socket when the ignition is off, handy to find your bed. Not handy when the car is flat the next day.

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I'm considering purchasing an impact wrench, preferably second hand. What amount of torque is considered sufficient for general car use, such as getting rusty bolts off etc? I'm planning on changing both front wishbones and ball joints on the Bora, so I'd rather not struggle. Plus, it'd be handy to keep for other jobs too.

 

have a look at youtube reviews and make up your own mind...often the numbers on the packet dont mean alot 

 

you have to spend a fair bit to get one that will undo most stuff , cheaper dregs wont undo wheel nuts , ive just splashed out on a milwaukee 1/2" one 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Milwaukee-M18FIWF12-0-18v-1-2in-Friction-Ring-Impact-Wrench-Naked-Bare-Unit-/252846966564?epid=682141156&hash=item3adeda8724:g:KRwAAOSwR4FZiH0N

 

gets most stuff off sposed to be 300nm...doubt it would touch crank bolts , they do a more powerfull one that will but its huge so more alkward to use on everyday jobs

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All the hoses & rad look dry, when I've had water pumps fail then either I've seen coolant dripping from the pulley or they've rattled, neither the case here. The coolant is still bright pink. I do hope it isn't the pump, not sure how much of a job it is on this engine as it has a timing chain.

Thanks for the response RayMK & Twosmoke300.

I used one of those ebay UV dye kits to find the very slight leak in my Volvo. It worked really well just drop the dye in the coolant wait a couple of days of running then use the supplied uv torch at night. Any leaks even really small ones are obvious as they glow.

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I'm considering purchasing an impact wrench, preferably second hand. What amount of torque is considered sufficient for general car use, such as getting rusty bolts off etc? I'm planning on changing both front wishbones and ball joints on the Bora, so I'd rather not struggle. Plus, it'd be handy to keep for other jobs too.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-24-Volt-1-2-inch-Drive-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-Gun-With-2-Batteries-New/162131981655?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Someone bought me one of these, thought it would be crap, but it isn't.

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