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I have a Flickr account with loads of old cars/motorcycle pics but have noticed that lately they have been "faved" by loads of young wimmen. Now I am sure they are not in the least interested in my photos of old motorcycle indicators for example so why do they "fave" them?

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Is clutch judder anything to worry about? My car does it when it's a cold/damp morning for the first mile or so, though oddly doesn't do it straight away - it does it between about 0.5-1 mile into the journey then never again.

 

It also grinds going into 2nd if when I'm pulling out of my street, then sometimes does one grind into 3rd at about the 1 mile mark. The grind into 3rd feels more like a reluctant linkage on the gearstick end rather than the actual gears and I can drive round the grind into 2nd.

 

Other than that it's absolutely fine in all gears for the rest of the journey. I had the box oil changed at 45k to try and cure it but it's the same now (64k). I'm still deciding whether to sack it off and get something else.

I had a Renault 16 that did this - judder when cold and then some clutch 'drag' when hot making gear changes 'crunchy'. Got to me in the end and found it was a tiny amount of gearbox oil migrating along the first motion shaft and getting into the linings. Spraying a bit of methylated spirits into bell housing to 'wash' the clutch improved it for a while...

 

Squirrel2

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Why is Squirrel2 always green?

Squirrel2 has been wondering about that too..

 

It took a few weeks and a couple of emails to the 'Admin' before I was granted access after attempting to register for the forum.

 

There are no unanswered emails as far as I know.

 

Perhaps if one of the moderators sees this they might shed some light on the green squirrel?

 

Thanks,

 

Squirrel2

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I have a Flickr account with loads of old cars/motorcycle pics but have noticed that lately they have been "faved" by loads of young wimmen. Now I am sure they are not in the least interested in my photos of old motorcycle indicators for example so why do they "fave" them?

Spambots probably. You get them on pretty much any site with a heart/star/like button.

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Guest Hooli

Squirrel2 has been wondering about that too..

 

It took a few weeks and a couple of emails to the 'Admin' before I was granted access after attempting to register for the forum.

 

There are no unanswered emails as far as I know.

 

Perhaps if one of the moderators sees this they might shed some light on the green squirrel?

 

Thanks,

 

Squirrel2

 

Might be worth pinging Cavcraft (or another mod/admin) a PM in case they don't see this.

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Get a scrap gearbox and take out the first motion shaft i.e. the bit that goes through the clutch into the flywheel, and use that.

Mustardmitt on my IMPs it was a tube (from my bottle jack) into the spigot + leccy tape for the spline dia.

 

Alright! already ;) ..... I AM A TiteWad lolz

 

 

TS

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My trolley jack was £9.99 from Aldi 10 years ago and is still going strong.

 

 

Does anyone know which OBD2 protocol a petrol Citroën C4 uses?  I have acquired one with the EML on but my code reader won't connect to it - I'm not sure whether this is the car being French or the code reader being Chinese.

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Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/running-in-a-new-car - Some helpful parameters there from AA

 

As for a sign, I'm fairly certain ebay has some running in stickers to warn others what you're doing. 

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Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

I feel fairly confident in saying that you don't actually need a sign. If you are driving at less than 20 mph over any speed limit the other motorists will just overtake you regardless.

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Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

Do you intend to keep it for a long long time, if so then just take it easy for the first 500 miles and get the oil/ filter changed.

 

Not keeping it don't bother, have seen brand new straight off the showroom floor bikes ragged stupid at track days with no apparent I'll effects.

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Apparently not, but there's no harm just going a bit steady for the first 1k or so. I had the oil in my Abarth changed at 2k because I wasn't comfortable with running it for 10k on the oil it was built with. 

TBH manufacturers don't give two shits about what happens after 5 years so even if running something in properly doubled the lifespan of the engine, they still wouldn't recommend it.

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I always considered the 'Running In' as something essential on those cars manufactured 'back in the day' (say.. pre 1960?)

 

The engine blocks were bored with a spinning cutter and the piston rings might smash if ragged up & down the bore (it being like a gramophone groove spiral finish)....

 

Later, car manufacturers designed the block with 'clear way' top to bottom (crank web casting didn't intrude into the line of the bores) and began to 'hi-speed' broach the bores... this is very quick/accurate + all tooling marks are vertical to the piston stroke = no piston ring issues.

 

I may be rongg....  ;-)

 

 

TS

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The machining tolerances are closer and finish quality of engine parts are far better than they were 50 years ago, but running in is still necessary if the longest service is to be gained; ensure that the engine is fully warm by driving the first couple of miles gently, thereafter accelerating briskly through the gears, not dwelling at a constant speed or throttle but coasting(or braking) and accelerating(briskly) in a manner likely to infuriate anyone stuck behind you. The objective is to encourage the piston rings to bed in, the gas pressure in the combustion chamber is what creates the ring seal and it is greatest under acceleration; more gas pressure = more ring seal force = quicker(and arguably better) ring bedding-in. The lack of constant speed/throttle allows the various bits a breather between bouts of acceleration in which to cool down. Modern cylinder bores are invariably cross-honed after being bored out. Unless specified by the manufacturer, do not use synthetic oil during the run-in as you'll be changing it well before you get any of the benefits of synthetic oil = money down the drain into the waste oil tank at the council tip. Cheapo ASDA dinosaur oil will suffice for the first ~500 miles.

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Tyres!

 

How heavily can you rely on tyre ratings? I've got a set of alloys to go on my car and with 155/70 R13's being dead cheap I might as well go for the best. The reason that I'm asking is because the Goodyear Efficientgrip Compact and Dunlop Street Response 2 both have fuel efficiency C, wet grip B and 68 dB. Maybe it's marketing bollocks or I might even be making it up in my head but I've always thought that Michelin were considered top dog yet the E3B is fuel efficiency F and 2 dB louder too. My mother swears by them as she got 25k miles out of the front set of Michelin's on her old Laguna Tourer. The latter being Anyone able to weigh in on this one?

 

TL;DR

Are tyre ratings bollocks and are Michelin E3B's £30 more expensive purely because brand name?

 

the newer version of the michelin primacy that were on the spaceship are rated now as E-B-B- i'm sure they were F-B-E before

the uniroyal rain expert 3 now fitted are rated as C-A-B and the fuel economy has got better and road noise is better- so no i dont think the ratings are complete bollox

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