Ask a Shiter

[cort1977]

I get them if I remember and they're cheap like 30c on rockauto but have done many changes reusing the old one and never had an issue. One of those 'good practice but not essential' things I think.

 

Quick question on sump gaskets, obviously need to scrape off the old one but does it need to be shiny bright steel all the way around? Wet and dry or steel wool a good idea or not? Definitely only want to do it once as had to jack engine off the mounts to get the sump off.

[somewhatfoolish]

Can anyone identify these seats?

middle seat looks like standard LR Deluxe(fluting and piping and all that jazz; LR standard ordinary was/is plain unadorned vinyl), no idea about the outer two.

Brake fluid - is worth spending more for a named brand??

No, it's all made to the same strict quality standard so there's not much point.

Does anyone bother using a new sump plug washer when doing an oil change? I never have and not had any issues with reusing the old one but they must sell them for a reason.

Depends; is it plain copper, copper crushable or a bonded composite seal? The first can be reused many times if your mingebaggery is strong and you don't lean on it, either as-is or heat to red and allow to cool for a proper job. Crushables; reuse depends on whether it was done up by a gorilla or not, once or twice will probably work but it won't be pretty. Bonded seals; as long as the sealing lips are intact and flexible they'll continue to work.

[burraston2006]

Is scrap on it's arse at the moment? Want to scrap the CMax (mot fail!) and got offered £40.00. Is that about right or taking the piss?

[Bfg]

Brake fluid - is worth spending more for a named brand??

Brake fluids are made to international vehicle safety standards, so it's OK to go with an unbranded.  However., what are you saving in real costs ? a quid or two for how many years that brake fluid is expected to be in you car for ?  Imo the thing about well-established brands is they spend a lot of money to build up a loyal following (repeat customers and recommendations) and aren't going to jeopardise that 'long-term investment' by selling too crap a product.  So, for the sake of saving a couple of quid over 10 years - I'd go for the company who value their reputation, and whose factory QA is consistent.

 

Does anyone bother using a new sump plug washer when doing an oil change? I never have and not had any issues with reusing the old one but they must sell them for a reason.

Sump washers like any fibre or soft metal sealing washers crush when tightened. And one of the things about these soft materials is that they have more friction ..in this case to prevent their undoing as the sump gets hot and cold repeatedly.  

 

Crushed fibre and soft metal washers don't spring back when the pressure is released. They are in effect work-hardened by the pressure. So the next time you use the 'seal' you'll need to tighten it tighter.  Usually that works fine as long as the the thread & case are strong enough and the 'sealing surface' is flat.  However., if the surface is not perfectly flat then you may get a very light seep (rather than leak). This lubrication will reduce its locking friction even more..   So why not just buy a few new washers ..and keep them in stock  (..perhaps tape them to the oil can or slip them in with the replacement oil filter - so they don't get misplaced).?   Again just how much are you saving per annum or per 10,000 miles.?   If the budget is really tight then why not reuse them only once and effectively halve the expense

 

P.S.  I hope your sump drain-cap has a magnet in it ..if not I would recommend one. They are cheap

 

I get them if I remember and they're cheap like 30c on rockauto but have done many changes reusing the old one and never had an issue. One of those 'good practice but not essential' things I think.

 

Quick question on sump gaskets, obviously need to scrape off the old one but does it need to be shiny bright steel all the way around? Wet and dry or steel wool a good idea or not? Definitely only want to do it once as had to jack engine off the mounts to get the sump off.

 

Sumps in ferrous steel will go rusty if not painted.  If a plated cover then use plastic coarse-fibre pads which, with the aid of solvents, will clear gaskets and goo but won't be too abrasive on the plating. 

 

I don't have a sump pan on my flat-four Citroen, and that on the old motorcycle is of cast aluminium.  This one I checked when restoring the bike ..to ensure it was flat (I skimmed it on wet n' dry taped to a very flat surface) and spotlessly clean.  I then very carefully torque the sump bolts - using diagonal pattern (like used on cylinder heads) to ensure the sump sits down evenly. 

 

I do however have a crucial pressed-steel sealing engine plate (cam chain cover) which sits on a cork / soft gasket, so is the same in concept as a sump pan. Those I clean up (which usually means taking back to bare metal) and dress flat (with hammer n' dolly) ..to level out where the bolts had previously been over-tightened and locally indented the metal around these fastening holes.  As a gasket face it needs to be flat. 

 

I then paint the inside surface and the outside face too, to prevent rust (even within an engine there is atmospheric moisture).  On a steel sump I'd probably paint the outside, and just the inside flange (not the whole bowl).  Personally I like to use petrol resistant paint for this.. If you can get hi-temp petrol-proof so much the better.  If you can have it plated then (..so long as the process doesn't distort the metal) ..better still     I paint., but then make sure the part is well heated to dry before fitting (sit it on a radiator in the winter or to bake in the sunshine during the summer)

 

I then use s.s. penny / body washers in place of the small washers so as not to pull the metal in so locally around the fastening holes. NB. usually I have to cut one side of the penny washers off,  so they fit flat where the plate has a upturned flange (see photo below).  I know many would say all this is overkill, but I prefer to do things right - once.   On the sump I like to use stainless lock nuts (able to take engine temperatures).  Whatever the fastening - they are evenly torqued down.    

 

^ 1951 Sunbeam S8 motorcycle engine

 

Hope that's hopeful

Bfg.

[Kiltox]

Is scrap on it's arse at the moment? Want to scrap the CMax (mot fail!) and got offered £40.00. Is that about right or taking the piss?

www.removemycar.co.uk - try that. Same idea as CarTakeBack in that it'll connect you to a local yard. Always had better prices on there than direct with local places.

[3VOM]

Grump number 1

OK here's the scores:

 

First time:

First Fast Idle

CO 0.54%

HC 118ppm

Lambda 1.05

 

Second Fast Idle

CO 0.53%

HC 127ppm

Lambda 1.061

 

Tester says he can hear leak on exhaust and there is one on the joint between the cat and the middle pipe. I fix this and take it for a retest.

 

Second time:

First Fast Idle

CO 0.59%

HC 169ppm

Lambda 1.03

 

Second Fast Idle

CO 0.66%

HC 157ppm
Lambda 1.025

Failed again. This time the scores are:

First Fast Idle

CO 0.08%

HC 48ppm

Lambda 1.037

 

Second Fast Idle

CO 0.01%

HC 24ppm
Lambda 1.040

 

So the lambda is now just too high. New cat has solved the CO issue. What now?

[3VOM]

Quick question on sump gaskets, obviously need to scrape off the old one but does it need to be shiny bright steel all the way around? Wet and dry or steel wool a good idea or not? Definitely only want to do it once as had to jack engine off the mounts to get the sump off.

I seem to remember Eric the Car Guy using some 3M scouring pad type thing on a drill or air tool to scrub old gasket off.

[jonathan_dyane]

Either the exhaust is still leaking or its running weak for some other reason. MAF? Might it be worth taping over a smallish segment of the air filter?

[burraston2006]

www.removemycar.co.uk - try that. Same idea as CarTakeBack in that it'll connect you to a local yard. Always had better prices on there than direct with local places.

Came in at £105 so will go with these!

[Lacquer Peel]

The miserable VAG van (SEAT Inca) is sticking in third gear, only going down the gears and can be wrestled out of third at idle. Sometimes.

I lubed the rods which improved the gear change but it still sticks in third - it's got to be something internal, right?

[DodgeRover]

Can you go 2nd - 4th ok change wise?

[Lacquer Peel]

Yes the gear change is really sweet. I am confuse. It's really awkward to drive without using all of the gears, especially uphill, but I can live with it.

[DodgeRover]

Could something be fouling the linkage in the position for moving out of 3rd gear?

[5speedracer]

Does anyone bother using a new sump plug washer when doing an oil change? I never have and not had any issues with reusing the old one but they must sell them for a reason.

Smart early bird (yes really) do washers at pennies cost. Put a new one on!

[Kiltox]

always change the sump plug washer if you can - lost count of how many older cars I've had that have had a very sight seep from the plug. Just enough to make a mess.

[bunglebus]

Does anyone bother using a new sump plug washer when doing an oil change? I never have and not had any issues with reusing the old one but they must sell them for a reason.

 

I have re-used them, mostly because I always forget to buy a new one and remember as I undo the sump plug. I have used these on various engines and if the right diameter can stop minor leaks on dodgy sumps;

 

 

They're listed for Mondeos and are usually not a lot of money.

[Kiltox]

Saw an "all electric" London bus earlier with smoke/steam coming out of a side exit exhaust(?) near the front - WTF is that all about?!

[AMC Rebel]

Seat runners in the jaaaag have star/torx type fasteners I've seen before BUT the front ones have kind of the same thing in reverse - and I have never seen these - so for the front ones, I'm guessing the tool to tighten/untighten is a sort of star socket "female" rather than a bit "male".  Anyone know the right words to say/type to get one of these?

[bunglebus]

Seat runners in the jaaaag have star/torx type fasteners I've seen before BUT the front ones have kind of the same thing in reverse - and I have never seen these - so for the front ones, I'm guessing the tool to tighten/untighten is a sort of star socket "female" rather than a bit "male".  Anyone know the right words to say/type to get one of these?

 

Female star, as you said. Check the number of points, star/Torx and spline are different IIRC.

[twosmoke300]

I have re-used them, mostly because I always forget to buy a new one and remember as I undo the sump plug. I have used these on various engines and if the right diameter can stop minor leaks on dodgy sumps;

 

 

They're listed for Mondeos and are usually not a lot of money.

Called a Dowty washer

[Vantman]

By my own admission I am approaching 'giffer' status so I enjoy a comfortable car with automatic gearbox. I run a couple of Saabs which are fine by my standards but this 2001 BMW 318Ci has appeared quite local to me,it is low mileage and decent nick and never having owned one in my motoring life I wondered if the ride comfort matches that of my Saabs. Any opinions please?

 

 

[twosmoke300]

Rusty buckets

[cobblers]

Yeah my mum had one just like that and it wasn't great.

[DVee8]

The FiL would like to know how much antifreeze is requied for his 2.0 TDi Seat Leon 06 plate.He is planning to drain the system and refilling.

Can any of you knowledgeable lot help out? Please..

[twosmoke300]

Assuming its a 1p leon with a BKD engine then total cooling capacity is 8 litres so 4 litres of coolant from bone dry .

[Sigmund Fraud]

The miserable VAG van (SEAT Inca) is sticking in third gear, only going down the gears and can be wrestled out of third at idle. Sometimes.

I lubed the rods which improved the gear change but it still sticks in third - it's got to be something internal, right?

 

I fear you're right. If it was a linkage problem, 1st and 5th would also be affected. It's probably an internal fault, potentially something to do with the selector forks.

 

I'm developing a deep hatred of the 085 boxes, they really are the Achilles' heel of any car they're fitted to !

[somewhatfoolish]

Saw an "all electric" London bus earlier with smoke/steam coming out of a side exit exhaust(?) near the front - WTF is that all about?!

Assuming it isn't a mislabeled infernal destruction engine having an ZOMGHGF! moment then it might be some newfangled powercell thing(some of which operate at very high temperatures. Another possibility could be a sterling engine of some kind, but then the 'all electric' bit would be a fat lie.

 

While I'm posting, what's the gig with pineapples and VAG products? I are confused.

[Bobthebeard]

Today the (so far) totally reliable Saab has bonged up some faults on the SID during a drive home from Wales. Never done it before..... But three times today in a 80 mile trip.

BONG...

TCS, ABS and brake warning lights came on. Then went off. Three times randomly. Everything still working as normal. On one occasion the speedometer very briefly dropped to zero. Normal service resumed quickly.

Should I be worried?

[Guest]

Today the (so far) totally reliable Saab has bonged up some faults on the SID during a drive home from Wales. Never done it before..... But three times today in a 80 mile trip.

BONG...

TCS, ABS and brake warning lights came on. Then went off. Three times randomly. Everything still working as normal. On one occasion the speedometer very briefly dropped to zero. Normal service resumed quickly.

Should I be worried?

May well be the other side front ABS ring- the Nearside IIRC. There is a new one in the boot.

[Bobthebeard]

May well be the other side front ABS ring- the Nearside IIRC. There is a new one in the boot.

Thanks Barry.

Although the one in the boot has already been fitted a couple of months ago to cure the ABS kicking in at low speed. It cured it. No issues with that since.