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Had to Google Rolling coal.

 

Morons. Right up there with vaping twats who insist on making as much "smoke" as possible.

Usually accompanied by an ill fitting beard.

 

I've turned this into Grumpy old Man. Sorry.

 

It is just Newton's third law in action.... (  see Brexit,  BNP, renewable energy, healthy eating et all....)

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Anyone good at interpreting vac gauge readings?

 

This is at idle and the needle is jittering around - but the deflections are very small and quick.

 

post-20411-0-57197900-1492344807_thumb.jpg

 

I have so far -

 

Checked Compressions (good on all 8 cylinders)

Changed all plugs, HT leads, Rotor Arm and Dizzy Cap (yesterday).

Checked timing - OK, but tried advancing a little on standard - no different.

Fitted a new carb (last week).

 

Symptoms -

 

Very reluctant to start and run when cold, once warm, better, but dies on anything other than very moderate acceleration.

 

 

I was hoping the vac gauge would show a an air leak somewhere, but it doesn't seem to be conclusive.

 

Not sure what to check next.  I would drop the spare engine in, but I am worried that if it's actually fuel system (tank, pump etc) that's going to be a lot of work for nowt.

 

One of the old plugs looks like this which is a bit worrying - do I need to do (another) comp check on that cylinder?

 

 

post-20411-0-85314800-1492344735_thumb.jpg

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I have so far -

 

Checked Compressions (good on all 8 cylinders)

Changed all plugs, HT leads, Rotor Arm and Dizzy Cap (yesterday).

Checked timing - OK, but tried advancing a little on standard - no different.

Fitted a new carb (last week).

 

What state is the distributor in ? Does it have a vacuum advance ?

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What state is the distributor in ? Does it have a vacuum advance ?

Not sure about the state of the Dizzy - I bought it off a mate of mine as it's had the points replaced with electronic ones - car ran better when I initially fitted it.

 

It does have a vac advance as well as a mechanical one via those little balance weights (which I have checked).

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The vacuum gauge should have a damper in the pipe. Do that up a bit until it stops wobbling. The wobble you're seeing is the changes in intake vacuum as the intake valves open & close.

 

Thanks - pleased about that - so it looks like I am just low on vac at idle - I will try the card cleaner spray test next them.  

 

Thanks all - this place, etc

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Guest Hooli

You'd expect low vacuum on idle, the engine isn't breathing much.

I'm not sure how you expect to see an air leak tbh, doesn't matter where the air is getting in the vacuum will be the same as that's what the engine is sucking in. Without readings from it when healthy you won't know if it's out anyway.

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VW door locks, yeh i know, possibly the flimsiest and most troublesome door locks known to man.

 

A 2001 Polo 6N2, has had intermittent working central locking and the gubbins inside the drivers lock barrel were busted. I've rebuilt the drivers lock barrel and all seems to be working smoothly and changed the drivers door lock for a second hand unit. Put it back together and it was all working fine yesterday.

Today it isn't. I can't get the central locking working at all now and when the key is moved in the barrel it just seems to open the front electric windows and not much else. Using a flat blade i can manually lock and unlock the doors from the slot that the barrel usually sits in but i cant get it to work from key/barrel itself.

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VW door locks, yeh i know, possibly the flimsiest and most troublesome door locks known to man.

 

A 2001 Polo 6N2, has had intermittent working central locking and the gubbins inside the drivers lock barrel were busted. I've rebuilt the drivers lock barrel and all seems to be working smoothly and changed the drivers door lock for a second hand unit. Put it back together and it was all working fine yesterday.

Today it isn't. I can't get the central locking working at all now and when the key is moved in the barrel it just seems to open the front electric windows and not much else. Using a flat blade i can manually lock and unlock the doors from the slot that the barrel usually sits in but i cant get it to work from key/barrel itself.

Polo door locks are indeed made from chocolate, cheese and buscuits. Aftermarket ones are about £8 on Ebay but probably overpriced at that.

The wiring loom from the A post into the door tends to fray and snap as well, worth pulling the boot back and having a good look and wiggle...

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You'd expect low vacuum on idle, the engine isn't breathing much.

 

I'm not sure how you expect to see an air leak tbh, doesn't matter where the air is getting in the vacuum will be the same as that's what the engine is sucking in. Without readings from it when healthy you won't know if it's out anyway.

Good points, well made - I guess I expected the red sector of the gauge would indicate the vac was low for any engine at idle - but you're right of course, I have no clue what it was like before.

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VW door locks, yeh i know, possibly the flimsiest and most troublesome door locks known to man.

 

A 2001 Polo 6N2, has had intermittent working central locking and the gubbins inside the drivers lock barrel were busted. I've rebuilt the drivers lock barrel and all seems to be working smoothly and changed the drivers door lock for a second hand unit. Put it back together and it was all working fine yesterday.

Today it isn't. I can't get the central locking working at all now and when the key is moved in the barrel it just seems to open the front electric windows and not much else. Using a flat blade i can manually lock and unlock the doors from the slot that the barrel usually sits in but i cant get it to work from key/barrel itself.

 

To me, it sounds like a problem with the central locking vacuum pump. The pump is in the boot, behind the trim panel on the offside.

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These look quite rich yeah?

post-3886-0-58004200-1492436662_thumb.jpg

 

 

Van smells like it's running rich and can be very hard to start if you restart it when lukewarm. Winding it over with ECU disconnected (so no fuel) for 10 seconds or leaving it 10 minutes stood will get it to start again.

 

I've never had to read plugs before, most stuff I owned has had closed loop O2 control.

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Another time I rented in the 90s was from Avis in Mayfair, that there London. No credit card (with enough slack) for the deposit, guarantee card only went to £100 - I had to TransAx a cheque for 250 quid - plus come up with two referees to phone. Hard work on the Sunday in question as the first two were engaged and I was running out of numbers to call.

 

Sorry to sound like an auld cunt going on about how we used to do things before internet.

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Clio Mk2 1.2 16v. Won't start. I haven't checked the obvious yet like plugs and fuel but it is consistently doing something funny namely turns over for 2-3 seconds then stops. Short of hotwiring the starter it will do this but not actually attempt to fire up at any stage. I didn't think this was how the immobiliser behaved but I'm willing to learn. The bizarre positive battery terminal isn't helping either, is it needed? Read somewhere that part of it is a large fuse to protect something but that seems to be eccentrically unnecessary and Renault. Anyone have any further info please?

 

Edit: I am wondering if it is that 2nd "timer?" "comfort?" ECU that is playing up.

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Halfords tools....

 

I have a rail of 1/2 inch drive male Torx bits. I think I bought the rail on its own, not as part of a set. Anyway, the T30 didnt respond well to use with an impact gun for some reason, and I dont know if these are "professional" tools or not - ie lifetime guarantee.

It just says "Halfords Chrome Vanadium" on it.

 

Any ideas?

 

post-17837-0-33341000-1492784257_thumb.jpg

post-17837-0-18347200-1492784262_thumb.jpg

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Halfords tools....

 

I have a rail of 1/2 inch drive male Torx bits. I think I bought the rail on its own, not as part of a set. Anyway, the T30 didnt respond well to use with an impact gun for some reason, and I dont know if these are "professional" tools or not - ie lifetime guarantee.

It just says "Halfords Chrome Vanadium" on it.

 

Any ideas?

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170421_160408.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20170421_160419.jpg

 

Unhelpfully Anne Anorak responds:  most impact bits/sockets are black and those not rated for impact drivers are chrome.

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