Ask a Shiter

[twosmoke300]

Go to your local hydraulic pipe place and they will extend it .

[catsinthewelder]

Don't try using airline,  it really can't cope with the pressure.  Yes there was a very big bang.

[oldcars]

No

 

Edit to add:

 

"Wiper blades that park automatically in a position that obscures the view through the windscreen are subject to Reason for Rejection 1."

"RfR 1:

A wiper or washer control missing or inaccessible to the driver

a wiper does not continue to operate automatically when switched on

a wiper installed for the use of the driver does not operate over an area of the windscreen large enough to give the driver an adequate view of the road (through the windscreen) to the left and right sides of the vehicle, as well as to the front."

 

My take is that they intentionally don't park automatically (e.g. they don't always stop in the same place when switched off), so it shouldn't be a reason for RfR 1.

 

2nd edit: people that know far better than me concur: http://forums.motester.co.uk/forum3/844.html

Bugger, any ideas on why the Reliant ones won't park? Spindle was leaking water into the car but that's all fixed now. Is there a switch or something that makes them stop in the correct place?

[cobblers]

If they "should" park then there's a switch inside the motor housing usually running off a cam on the spindle. It's closed whenever the wipers aren't parked, then momentarily opens when they are.

It's wired to bypass the wiper switch so they keep on moving until they hit the park position.

Either that switch is knackered, or you've lost the 12v ignition feed onto the wiper motor. Or they were never meant to park.

[RayMK]

They should park but as you have found they sometimes don't.  My Rialto had the same problem.  MOT chap was ok with it because it was easy to park them out of the way with the wiper switch.  I have not driven my Regal MKVI since July and therefore can't remember whether it has self parking wipers.

[oldcars]

They should park but as you have found they sometimes don't.  My Rialto had the same problem.  MOT chap was ok with it because it was easy to park them out of the way with the wiper switch.  I have not driven my Regal MKVI since July and therefore can't remember whether it has self parking wipers.

Thanks Ray. As you say it started doing it then stopped and now its started again. I am hoping now the leak from the spindle is cured it may start in time working again. Easy to park the wiper manually as you say too.

[steveo3002]

is there a reason for automotive earth cables being braided and bare?

 

i realise they dont need the insulation , but doesnt being bare let the all the strands oxidise etc?

 

must be a reason not to just use normal cable

[dave21478]

Some cars do use normal cable.

[steveo3002]

speccing up battery cables /new earths

 

what would an average 1300 cc engine take when cranking ?

[Asimo]

Braided construction is used where the cable is short and subject to a lot of vibration for instance between engine and body. The braid construction is very flexible and thus less prone to breakage than a thick short cable with a few strands would be. Copper hardens with age and with the stresses of being flexed / worked. Earth braids are tinned but with salty conditions do get manky. If they are sprayed with WD40 once or twice a year they stay like new for ever.

 

^^^easily 100 amps, on a cold day plenty more. A clue is in the cold cranking current part of the battery specification. Many batteries show that on the label, often in the vehicle handbook too.

[steveo3002]

makes sense

[rainagain]

This power steering pipe in my OH's Tucson is leaking. Would I be best getting one from the main stealer or could someone recommend somewhere in fife where I could get one made up. It's just a section of pipe with some bends, its about 400mm long.

[Richard]

Pirtek might be able to do one, I think they have a branch in Cupar Muir, but I don't know if it would be any cheaper than the dealer.

[DSdriver]

Remind me again how I obtain a mongbay sellers phone no and address? I have a suspicion that I am being twatted about on a collection/cash only item because I was the only bidder and got it for min. price.

[scdan4]

was someone on here breaking a mk1 v70?

 

I need a seatbelt pillar guide trim thingy - mines worn through and is beginning to fray the belt a good bit.

 

Can't find one on the bay and can't find the time to go nosing round the local breakers (who are not that great anyway - there's a big emr plant in town)

[Richard]

I've just arranged to have it taken away. If I get time before they come for it I'll see if I can get the bit off, although I've a feeling it had the same problem, but I'm working all day tomorrow.

[cobblers]

Anyone know anything about lawnmower carbs?

 

 

Bought a petrol mower off some old boy a couple of years ago, it's just some cheapo "champion" thing but it's decent enough. Our lawn is only about 20sqm so it's deffo way overkill but I'd rather fight with an engine than an extension cord.

Last few months it's been more and more of a bastard to get going, usually starting for like 5 seconds then banging out. 

I'd give it a sniff of anything I could find and it'd go ok. Then it only ran on choke. Then lately not at all.

 

This morning I took the float bowl off and sure enough it was full of gravel or something, I cleaned that out and then took out what looks like the jet from the base and it was blocked. Poked it out with a needle and it starts and runs ace, but now it's running incredibly rich.

 

Images off the internet of a similar carb:

 

The brass thing up the bottom of here is what I took out, and some other long tube from above came out. Before I removed it I checked it wasn't "adjustable" and it was wound in tight all the way so it went back the same.

 

 

The only adjustment I can see on my carb is a screw with a spring behind it. It faces forward on the mower and is where the upside down U shape but near the bottom left of the casting. I've wound it all the way in and all the way out and it makes no difference.

 

 

I'm happy enough cos the mower starts fine, but it's running so rich it's blowing black smoke and it sounds like a fucking crosser!

[scdan4]

I've just arranged to have it taken away. If I get time before they come for it I'll see if I can get the bit off, although I've a feeling it had the same problem, but I'm working all day tomorrow.

 

thats ace,

 

thanks 

[scdan4]

Anyone know anything about lawnmower carbs?

 

 

Bought a petrol mower off some old boy a couple of years ago, it's just some cheapo "champion" thing but it's decent enough. Our lawn is only about 20sqm so it's deffo way overkill but I'd rather fight with an engine than an extension cord.

Last few months it's been more and more of a bastard to get going, usually starting for like 5 seconds then banging out. 

I'd give it a sniff of anything I could find and it'd go ok. Then it only ran on choke. Then lately not at all.

 

This morning I took the float bowl off and sure enough it was full of gravel or something, I cleaned that out and then took out what looks like the jet from the base and it was blocked. Poked it out with a needle and it starts and runs ace, but now it's running incredibly rich.

 

Images off the internet of a similar carb:

 

The brass thing up the bottom of here is what I took out, and some other long tube from above came out. Before I removed it I checked it wasn't "adjustable" and it was wound in tight all the way so it went back the same.

 

 

The only adjustment I can see on my carb is a screw with a spring behind it. It faces forward on the mower and is where the upside down U shape but near the bottom left of the casting. I've wound it all the way in and all the way out and it makes no difference.

 

 

I'm happy enough cos the mower starts fine, but it's running so rich it's blowing black smoke and it sounds like a fucking crosser!

 

jet back in at the wrong depth? (although you say not)

 

poked the hole out larger whilst cleaning it out?

 

choke stuck on?

 

Float valve gritty / dodgy or float level off?

[cobblers]

The jet was hard up against some brass tube thing with holes in the sides of it. The alu casting was all pretty corroded though, there's been water in here at some point. I razzed the outside off with a brass brush and put it back in as it came out. I don't think the jet would work at any other level, it's just rattle loose as it was fairly baggy in the threads.

 

I'll have to check the choke actually, you might be right - It seems to be pulled closed by the "stop tortoise rabbit start" lever and I was fairly abusive towards the linkages.

Float valve shuts off properly, I tested that much. Didn't look like there was an official way to change the level!

Technically, I know how carbs work but I've been lucky enough that every carbed car I owned was fixed by just revving the balls off it and sticking my hand over the inlet which sucked all the shit out and got me going again, this is the first one I've actually had apart.

[Brodders]

A question for all Rover 75 lickers (and other interested parties).

 

I have a set of 15 inch Crown alloy wheels on my one, but I will be needing to get a new set of tyres very soon.

 

 

However, I sort of fancy a set of 17 inch Serpent alloys, as they do look particularly nice and I feel that the 15 inch ones are a little bit on the small side, even though I like them.

 

(This is similar to what they would look like on my one)

 

As luck would have it, I have seen a set on the internet which look to be in reasonable condition, with some rather new tyres, for less than the cost of a set of tyres for the Crowns which I have at the moment.

 

However, I quite like the ride quality of the car at the moment and don't particularly want to ruin it by fitting a huge set of alloy wheels. Would there be any significant difference, would it ruin the ride quality or am I just being concerned for no real reason?

 

And which do you think are better overall in terns of style and other stuff, as I quite like both and can't decide which route I should go down?

[DSdriver]

Keep the rolling circumference approximately the same otherwise your speedo, mileometer and trip meter readings will all be to pot.

so bigger wheels need lower profile tyres = harsher ride.

[adw1977]

so bigger wheels need lower profile tyres = harsher ride.

Also equals significantly more expensive tyres in future.

[SamR380]

I've got 18s ( ) on my V8 75 and the ride is pretty terrible compared to my V6 75 on 15s. Admittedly, literally all the suspension is different on the V8 but I think having 15s really helps the ride.

[steve_earwig]

Images off the internet of a similar carb:

 

That looks like the Bings on my JLO-powered Flymos. Do not be tempted to overtighten the float bowl/main jet nut to compensate for a shagged gasket (Bing! )

 

If it's anything like mine it's totally frigged and there aint no spares anywhere ever

[rainagain]

A question for all Rover 75 lickers (and other interested parties).

 

I have a set of 15 inch Crown alloy wheels on my one, but I will be needing to get a new set of tyres very soon.

 

WP_20160706_001.jpg

 

However, I sort of fancy a set of 17 inch Serpent alloys, as they do look particularly nice and I feel that the 15 inch ones are a little bit on the small side, even though I like them.

 

(This is similar to what they would look like on my one)

531951d8190b6bb27.jpg

 

As luck would have it, I have seen a set on the internet which look to be in reasonable condition, with some rather new tyres, for less than the cost of a set of tyres for the Crowns which I have at the moment.

 

However, I quite like the ride quality of the car at the moment and don't particularly want to ruin it by fitting a huge set of alloy wheels. Would there be any significant difference, would it ruin the ride quality or am I just being concerned for no real reason?

 

And which do you think are better overall in terns of style and other stuff, as I quite like both and can't decide which route I should go down?

I went from 15" steelies to 16" alloys on my 156 and I noticed bumps more. However my S80 has 17" alloys and still soaks up the bumps better than the 156. So I'd say yes they might make the ride worse but it also depends on the suspension setup. I would go for it, it they're terrible just sell them on.

[rainagain]

This power steering pipe in my OH's Tucson is leaking. Would I be best getting one from the main stealer or could someone recommend somewhere in fife where I could get one made up. It's just a section of pipe with some bends, its about 400mm long.

I've done some more reading on this, if it's a return line I've read you can make a replacement from copper plumbing pipe as there's little pressure in it. But I've also read people saying not to do this as it will work harden and split. Anyone got a view on this?

[dave21478]

If its a return line, some good quality rubber hose and jubilee clips should be fine.

[burraston2006]

Silly one I know, but do electric mirrors need to work for the mot?

[xtriple]

No. But the mirror bit has to be there, or at least one of them and an interior mirror (I think and it has to be drivers side?)

 

How frequently do I need to re-charge the battery from the MX5 to keep it happy? I'm doing it once a month at the mo' but it hardly takes any charging to get back to 'full' at this frequency.