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Daihatsu YRV turbo 130 (off to pastures new).


Joey spud

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Ventured out today and refitted the cam cover and put the new plugs in.
Washed the front of the engine down with lashings of brake cleaner and the oil leak / smell is no more.

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Also fitted all the Bini steels.
I think once the silver lower decal is given a buff with some G10 they should match it nicely.

I have been looking at window tinting vids on YouTube with thoughts of giving it a go,six metres of film is £10 so it's got to be worth a try.

I started on the little quarter panel glass first and because it already has a black coloured border and it was easy to do a good bubble free job on them.

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For the rear door glass I decided to remove it from the frame and take it up the shed.
After my first attempt ended up stuck double on itself I then used lots of soapy water to float the film onto the glass and it has again turned out ok.
Then it started raining so that stopped play for today.

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The tailgate is going to be the bastard one as you need to fit it to the outside of the glass and cut it to the right size first (just hold it in place with soapy water) then pre shrink it to the curvature of the glass using a heat gun before removing it's backing sheet,flipping it over and fitting it on to the inside of the glass without wearing it as a hat or screwing it up in to a sticky wet ball.

 

I am running out of things to do to it now,i've got no excuse not to mot it and tax it for February.

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Yes the suggested chocolate gearbox situation does give me angst.

 

The previous owner said it had a filter change @ 70k and fresh fluid every 20k,looking earlier the red stuff is bang on the mark and spotlessly clean.

 

So yes it will probably shit itself within a week but will look cool parked up on the drive thereafter..

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It does sound like the gearbox on this has been treated well, so fingers crossed it lasts.

 

I probably mentioned before, but worst case, if the gearbox does shit itself the manual box from a Sirion mates up and with your skills I'm sure you could have it running as a manual before too long.

The usual thing people do though is to put the engine from a YRV in to a manual Sirion, but with the work you've put in on this you'd want to keep the car.

I always thought a box swap on a YRV would be simpler than an engine in to a Sirion..

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Been continuing with the window tinting today.

 

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In the cold light of day my tinting skills have been shown to be a bit wanting.

There's no bubbles or wrinkles but the finish is a bit amature maybe when they get some sun on them the blotchyness will fade but for now there ok for me.

 

I will leave attempting the tailgate glass for a less wet and windy day.

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Car is looking superb! I have a YRV Turbo in so called ‘Banana Flava’.

Or my kids call it ‘Cheese On Wheels’. I absolutely love the car as it is so much fun to drive although I do fear for my life every time I take a corner at speed!

The fuel filler pipe is another place I found had started to rot.

Enjoy the car!

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This is looking good so far, I had one go past me yesterday in the bus lane, it reminded me of yours,

When you come to tinting the rear screen take all the interior trim off and really clean the dirt away from the bodywork behind the trims, if there's space masking tape the clean black band on the glass to the bodywork,

The heated elements can be cleaned up with fine wire wool 0000 and glass cleaner,

(Obviously be gentle)

Glass cleaner and the wire wool can be very good at removing old window sticker glue residue too,

Where the terminals are soldered to the screen hold lots of dirt that can be the ruin of the finished tint, lots off dirt particles in a kind off firework explosion,

Give it a squirt out with glass cleaner and let it dry or help it with the heat gun, then when dry paint the terminals with clear nail varnish, try not to get it on the clear glass area if you can help it, it saves you trying to clean it up before you apply tint,

I slide the brush through the terminals to try and catch the dirt,then let this all dry,

Then clean clean clean the inside of the window,

Hopefully if your still following this your inside will be as good as it gets,

 

I think the videos you watched (You Tube) described wet shrink, have you watched any dry shrink videos?

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Car is looking superb! I have a YRV Turbo in so called ‘Banana Flava’.

Or my kids call it ‘Cheese On Wheels’. I absolutely love the car as it is so much fun to drive although I do fear for my life every time I take a corner at speed!

The fuel filler pipe is another place I found had started to rot.

Enjoy the car!

 

Ha ha.

Yes i have been running the car around my private test track and for me the brakes are still a bit lacking in the retardation deptartment.

Hopefully once they bed in fully i will have more confidence with the little cars ability that said i was giving the paint on the roof a good clean and realised while struggling to reach right across that it's a tall car for it's short wheel base and may be a bit top heavy by design.

 

And yes only the breather pipe part of my filler neck was really bad and i was able to cut away the grot and replace it with a length of half inch coolant hose.

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This is looking good so far, I had one go past me yesterday in the bus lane, it reminded me of yours,

When you come to tinting the rear screen take all the interior trim off and really clean the dirt away from the bodywork behind the trims, if there's space masking tape the clean black band on the glass to the bodywork,

The heated elements can be cleaned up with fine wire wool 0000 and glass cleaner,

(Obviously be gentle)

Glass cleaner and the wire wool can be very good at removing old window sticker glue residue too,

Where the terminals are soldered to the screen hold lots of dirt that can be the ruin of the finished tint, lots off dirt particles in a kind off firework explosion,

Give it a squirt out with glass cleaner and let it dry or help it with the heat gun, then when dry paint the terminals with clear nail varnish, try not to get it on the clear glass area if you can help it, it saves you trying to clean it up before you apply tint,

I slide the brush through the terminals to try and catch the dirt,then let this all dry,

Then clean clean clean the inside of the window,

Hopefully if your still following this your inside will be as good as it gets,

 

I think the videos you watched (You Tube) described wet shrink, have you watched any dry shrink videos?

I have tried to do the rear screen twice now but it didn't end well.

I foolishly thought there isn't hardly any curve on the glass so i wont need to heat it up and pre shrink it and i have been proved very wrong.

 

I will wait for the weather to improve,buy a cheap heat gun (the wifes hair dryer just isn't up to the job) then look at more Youtube vids and go again.

 

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The paint is coming back to a deep shine though.

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I can't quite make out the shape of the rear screen, curve wise that is,

To help you understand what you're trying to do with the film,

If you imagine a bowl, then imagine that you have placed a piece of paper over the bowl and then stick your finger in the middle of the paper and push it down,

Some of the paper will be on the bowl side's the rest will be pleats, its the pleats that need shrinking,

If the window is really curved then wet shrink won't work enough to cast the film to the back window, if the film isn't the same shape as the window you will end up with creases etc, this will cause you to say some choice word's and maybe have a little cry !

I think you may want to try dry shrink, it's a different way to get the required result,

The next time I tint my car I should make a video, it's easy once you've seen it done, honest

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  • 2 weeks later...

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So i have rattle canned the rusty front arches with any old black paint,the colour match is a bit off but it'll do until the weather improves and i can do a better job.

 

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I have given the neglected paint a going over with farecla G10 applied with a mop on a dewalt dril and it has glossed up ok although there is a lot of gravel rash on the bonnet and bumper thru to the primer coat but i reckon along with the scruffy turbo decals it gives the car a bit or a hard bastard persona.

 

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Every now and again the mil lamp would pop on and a p0130 lazy oxygen sensor code would be stored.

 

I took the sensor off and gave it a good clean and connected it to my multi meter then attacked it with a blow torch to see if it was generating an output.

It was indeed giving about a 0.9 volt dc output when it got really red hot so i put it back but after a few starts it was still throwing the same code.

 

A dig around on ebay found me a genuine ngk replacement for under £20 and since fitting it the mil lamp has behaved.

 

So nothing urgent left to do now so mot time beckons.

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So a Mot was booked (it has been off the road since last Summer) at the workshop i owned back in 2001.

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It only just scrapped through the lambda part of the cat test i think there might be a slight exhaust leak somewhere.
Other than a tweak of the headlamp aim it walked the mot.

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It's done about 80 miles today and it's been a right laugh.
All told it owes me just shy of £740 so shock horror i may actually make a small profit if i ever sell it on.

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So a Mot was booked (it has been off the road since last Summer) at the workshop i owned back in 2001.

 

attachicon.gif20190214_093628.jpg

 

It only just scrapped through the lambda part of the cat test i think there might be a slight exhaust leak somewhere.

Other than a tweak of the headlamp aim it walked the mot.

 

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It's done about 80 miles today and it's been a right laugh.

All told it owes me just shy of £740 so shock horror i may actually make a small profit if i sell it on.

Great news. Well done!

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