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Clio can has MOT with no flippin advislurries


Pretest assessment by me identified 1 x 501 side light bulb at £1 and blow an 100psi via an airline through the screen washers. cleared whatever debris was in the nozzles anyway.


marvels at cleanness of this 16 year old £220 banger that the world seemingly wants off the road




To celebrate thought I would investigate why sunroof is leaking rainwater onto drivers seat.


Factory fit tilt only sunroof



handle unclips easily, there is a red plunger that i depressed to unclip the handle from the car. The glass then tilts right up to vertical, the hinges unclip from the car. the hinges and handle stay with the glass



one drain on each side at the front corners, blew air hose down them, poured water into the channels and it drained happily out through the car behind the sills. 



next by removing the edge trim which holds the headlining tidy against the sunroof frame I can pull headlining down and see what is going on



there are a load of 10mm bolts which hold the sunroof frame into the roof panel. also access is good to check the drain tubes, Rather than remove the frame and re mastic it down (no mastic you see) I chose to just nip the 10mm bolts up, bearing in mind they go into plastic I didnt go medieval on them, but got a good turn off each one



the black plastic trip dows look a little tighter but may still need to come out for clean up and new mastic



then thinking yay might be fixed I noticed that the flipping sunroof handle is broken. This I guess means that the glass panel is not pulled tight down. Another has been ordered



leak test I noticed that water collects on this corner on the front edge, but cannot get past the glass to the drain holes. 



The rear of the sun roof can be pressed down 1mm or so at the back which I think will make a difference



To be sure I removed the sunvisor and blank plugs from drivers side corner of the headlining, then pulled the door seal away and got wet. 



Note condensation on inside of roof panel. Towelled it all up and did the hose test. I was also able to see the drain pipes where they go into the a posts and all seems secure and leak free



I confirmed location of the leak be the trace of water stains from about where my thumb is up to directly under the front corner of the sunroof.



Will fit new handle when it comes, if that doesnt work then whole sunroof panel is coming out and new mastic to seal the frame in.

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new andle fitted kept glass closer but leak still happening.


it will be leaking between sunroof frame and roof panel. quite common


#3 son helping fix his own car. removed sunvisors, passenger grab handle, door seals around the top of the frame to allow headliner to drop. then about a dozen 10mm bolts that hold the plastic sunroof frame to the metal part of the frame that stays in the car



used a spatula to slip between roof panel and frame, sunroof frame is quite flimsy. tilted the frame up from the back, pulled the drain tubes off at the front and lifted the surprisingly light frame out of the car.



the oem seal is a mastic tape that was not stuck to the roof panel and was barely stuck to the sunroof. removed with a knife



cleaned all the loose stuff out of the way, replaced with a roof emergency mastic, waterproof and non setting which sounds like it ticks the boxes.



final clean and dry before applying clear mastic. once it was all bolted down excess was wiped with cloth and residue was cleaned off with meth spirit



frame goes in at the front first, you can see the drain tubes but these can be fixed to the frame once it is in place. refitted bolts etc



time will tell if problem fixed. now need to get one of those car moisture trap thingies to dry the inside out


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#2 sons car developed a thirst for brake fluid. I was stuck in Devon so he just topped it up. when I got home a couple of days later I checked it and fluid was dripping off the drivers side rear drum (ov-powa). do not drive it I instructed and showed him the leak. Ordered the parts and aimed to fit them the following weekend. 

Mrs thestag proned me to say the little fuckwit had been hooning all around town in it. I threatened to cancel his insurance unless he gave his keys to the mrs, which he did.

Removing the drum identified the cause as the slave cylinder peeing fluid out past the seal, everything was dripping with fluid


so many springs n'stuff that the easiest way to move forwards was to remove the hub, one 6ft breaker bar on the hubnut and it was free. interestingly - for me anyway - hub bearings are of the sealed variety, and looked to be a recent install


Because of the excessive amount of shite all over the place, I removed also the hub carrier and back plate for a thorough cleanse.


Made up the new shoes with handbrake and spring setup. 


Attached the handbrake cable which was a ballsache and one side is done. bled the brakes and it is back to rude health again


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catching up on stuff. oddly Pa-in-Laws skoda failed MoT on rusty disc, same corner. only he seems to have done like 700 miles in a year.


Just in case of any doubt


Verdict, both pads rusted to carrier, sliders working just fine. Stripped it down, went at it with a wire wheel on mr Grinder. Assembled with new discs and pads from ECP £25 inc their 50% deal


Just need to do the other side :D oh and free off the o/s/r calliper that was binding. again rusty pads on the carrier. soon fixed. Italian Tune up on the way to the retest which it passed 

£25 in bits and 2h labour - paid for with a cheap curry nomz

Parked up next to this, wonder what the rational was when they opted for that private plate



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Dads S2a Land Rover has been misbehaving a little over the last month. Highlight circuit burned out because of the "spider eyes" full beam load. Sure I had fitted a relay, but did it again. Here is a youtube vid I did, didn't take any photos

Alas didn't quite fix the issue, next up is the dip switch and loom. This is the original 1968 loom. Pretty easy to make up a new one.


The dip switch itself is a floor mounted jobby......


although it looks fucked, it was quite easy to strip down, check and reassemble. The cap now sits straight and it works fine.


Arty shot on one of the brighter days last week, flippin cold though


Lights are now fixed, 

Another issue has been that something had gone a little high resistance and was starving the coil of juice during starting. New crimp terminals and a good clean up of everything has got is starting nicely again. Remaking terminals and cleaning everything up has sorted it.


another toob vid covering the above


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My son's 2002 Clio had a flat battery BUT after charging it displayed the red light of death - NOTE NOT THE FLASHING RED LIGHT OF DEATH

I fixed it but have no idea how, see the video! It might help you or it might not.


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