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JimH

It is just so Super (Sentinel).

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I love steam engines, especially steam lorries. When I was a nipper one of my favourite films was the 70s Disney live action escapade One of Our Dinosaurs is Missing, rarely if ever shown these days due to overt racist connotations, i.e. all the bad guys were Chinese but all played by British characters actors and Carry On stalwarts (in yellowface). The film features a steam lorry in the pivotal scene.

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19 minutes ago, JimH said:

I didn't know that. I'll have to go and look it up.

I've done a bit more research and it's clearly a mock up, based on the classic Sentinel open fronted design. Shame, I suppose steam lorries in safe working condition were pretty much non existent by the early Seventies. 

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On 6/5/2019 at 11:29 AM, UltraWomble said:

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Ive picked this up from the local auctions - is it of any use for the Sentinel?

Measures up to 260 Lbs/InSq

Thanks for thinking of us but it isn't suitable for some reasons that are too boring to mention but it also doesn't read high enough for a working pressure of 255psi. It would be a bit like the radiation levels at Chernobyl only being 300 flibbertygibbets after they launched the top of the reactor skywards because that was how high the instruments would read.

Nice gauge, though.

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3 hours ago, warch said:

I've done a bit more research and it's clearly a mock up, based on the classic Sentinel open fronted design. Shame, I suppose steam lorries in safe working condition were pretty much non existent by the early Seventies. 

It's pretty obviously a joke thing on a lorry chassis but there was an interesting post on IMCDb

Quote

This truck wasn't a steamer, it was a mock-up made from a diesel truck for the movie. The soundtrack came from my fathers sentinel (753?), recorded driving it up and down a disused runway.

The number doesn't tie up with any that were round at the time but assuming the 7 is correct that means it was a Super that was making the noise. If you aren't sure what one sounds like try to imagine the huffing and puffing that might be made when people saw the "oh well, it was a different time back then" Peter and Bernard in costume...

oneofourdinosaursismissingscreenshot3.jp

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Awesome film, loved it when I was a kid. Was shown on the TV not so long ago I recall and it hadn't lost any of it's charm but yes it was pretty racist in the way the characters were portrayed!

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Right. Holidays, houses, sailing, losing cameras and other jobs have been getting in the way so progress has been a bit sluggish. Camera has been found and a number of other jobs have been finished so a quick yet unenlightening update...

One of the things that was slowing us down was having to rebuild the engine in this thing. It now has a slightly strong 3.5 Rover V8 than it had before. You may ask why it has a Rover V8 in it when like every other Land Rover ever it should be gas axed and the bits buried in the ground where they can't bother anyone ever again but I don't know the answer. I don't really like Land Rovers like this and doing any work on them reminds me how much I dislike them. Anyway, the lad who owns it likes it so that is all that matters. As they might say in Eastenders, "Leave it, it's faaaaahmleh"

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Other time wasting this included finishing this off. A Mk7 Transit with 180K on the clock bought to replace the dear departed LDV400. We removed the tipping body it came with (still available if anyone wants one) and fitted the flat bed and tail lift from the LDV. This took somewhat more effort than first thought because the tail lift required some fairly heavy re-engineering for the different chassis width and the hydraulics needed some TLC. Crap picture because it is shoved in the only available corner in the shed. Unlike crappy Series LRs I love Transits so I'm quite excited about this. We need a glass fitter to come and remove the steel panels from the rear doors and fit the windows instead. Also replaced were the brakes and front wheel bearings.

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About the only outward sign that it was a tipper on road mending duty was that the seats were a wee bit tarmac-y and the mats were worn through. However, it's not too difficult to get the covers off the seats and pop them in the washing machine. The squab on the driver's seat was new because it was so shiney I never thought it would come clean. However, when I washed it for shits and giggles just to see how it would come out it ended up looking as good as new so there is a spare one now. The quality of seats is just amazing now - 180K of abuse and a run through the washing machine and it looks like this. I couldn't get the covers off the headrests which is why they look grubby. Headlining could do with a clean but enthusiasm started running low. 

BTW, anyone got/know of a decent set of rear seats for a crew cab which aren't a squillion miles from Central Scotland? 

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A floormat and pair of wheelarch covers from a breaker hides the mileage even more. For those who don't know and might care the wheelarch covers are an absolute pig to change because they put them in before the dashboard goes in and it is quite a wrestle to get them out and back in without removing everything. However, all done now so there is no excuse for not getting on with the house. Trying to collect materials in a Vectra estate isn't very handy.

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Finally, the S needed a significant amount of work to sort out the drive for the auxilliary unit. This involved the usual work of removing the prop shaft, moving the axle back by a couple of inches, removing the flywheel, the cam shaft wiper assembly and dismantling the gear box to get one poxy, troublesome screw gear out. All of this is done while being covered in the treacle thick oil that S types need to use. In the end it needed a new pair of screw gears (they look like helical cut gears but they aren't) made by Leek Gears in guess where. Leek are bloody amazing and do some incredible work. Proper company with proper people and a proper mechine shop that properly smells like it bloody well should. Highly recommended for all your gear cutting requirements.

Once the gears came back there was then a fitting hell to make sure they were running as intended and then the simple job of refitting it the reverse of removal. Oh and test it then find out that the problems were masking yet another problem so waste a couple of days stripping and re-engineering the auxilliary unit.  Not really a lot to see so here is a couple of hundredweights of prop shaft back in place. The funny looking shaft and flexible coupling upper right is the troublesome auxilliary drive.

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All very dull and uniteresting but what about the other Sentinel? Well the driver's seat got finished. The seat has to sit further back than the stoker's seat because of the control levers but you need to sit quite far forward so you are over the steering wheel. That is why there is a slight overhang on the seat base. It is cut away to clear the levers on one side and give leg room between the seat and the throttle valve on the other.  The sharp eyed may notice that the plates fixing the cab sides to the ash bend have been bolted in properly too.

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And from the other side you can see the pokey emergency seat behind the driver. The base of that seat is hinged so you can keep your lunch and a map under it. These rear seats are our modification because on the proper waggons the bunker sits between the driver and stoker. On this layout the bunker will sit further back in the body on the back with a chute into the cab. This makes it easier to fill the bunker and also allows you to fit more people in the cab when you go to the pub. I still haven't decided on the radius on the sides of the seats.

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So that is the cab floor, back, sides and seats are pretty much done. I spent a day measuring up and making the jig to steam bend the ash beams for the cab roof but my woodworking muse is spent for the time being and someone else has been having most of the fun standing in front of lathes so I'll move onto that for a bit. So there you go. One Super Sentinel cab minus theroof looking not too bad at all I reckon.

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Still keeping it sort of cab related, though. This pile of cut bar will shortly look like a set of control levers. Originally all of these were cast but that would be far too much effort for five castings so they will be fabricated/machined from steel. As with all jobs you've got to start somewhere...

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For those who don't know Supers there are two control levers (or if it is an early one one lever and one wheel but that is getting too dull) - one for the handbrake and one for the reversing lever. These are arranged in an odd way because the rods linking the levers to the brakes/engine run either side of the chassis rail and have to avoid the front wheel. There is a drawing with some dimensions on so that is a start. This ugly lump is the start of the bearing block. Yes I know it looks like crap at the moment but once some magic has been worked on it things will look much more Sentinel like. The levers are the very first thing you see whn you open the drivers door so they need to look right. 

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Meanwhile we picked up the start of the water tank. The place down the road folded this up because it is too wide for our folder. This sits between the chassis rails behind the rear axle. The tricky bit is going to be making the ends because these were pressed and had pretty radii where they slip into the wrapper and were rivetted in. The sensible approach would be to weld it up but that would look terrible so we are going to need to do a lot of 18 gauge bashing to replicate the original design.

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Finally and most excitingly we were sent this picture by the pattern maker who is making the pattern for the rear axle spring pads. This was just before it went off to the foundry. There is a lot more work before it sits on its rear wheels but this is a very exciting step not least because it looks exactly like what a Super rear axle should look like and it is a beautiful job. The half pipes are the core box so they are cast hollow.

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So, what is next (apart from houses, sailing and other shit that gets in the way)

  • Keep welding, machining and filing the control levers
  • Finish the steering box, steering arms and track rod ends
  • Test the S and gas axe the bastard if it gives any more gyp.

 

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These control levers are taking forever. There are so many pieces and fabricating things so they look like castings is a painfully slow process so this update shows very little actual progress even though I've managed quite a lot of time in the workshop lately.  For example, a bit of revision. This was the start of the bearing block that supports the handbrake actuating shaft.

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It doesn't look it but by that point it has already had many hours in both the lathe and milling machine. Then you spend a while burning welding rods into it until it looks completely shit and quite depressing. However, all it takes is many more hours in the lathe and the milling machine and it ends up looking like this.

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Which you will hopefully agree looks a lot more like a casting. It isn't all the way there yet because the mounting points need to be milled round which takes a lot longer to do than to type. Many hours just to make one silly bearing block. Then there is the frame for the levers. Take the casting, machine the base flat, drill the mounting points and ream the hole for the pivot pin. The lengths of 5/8 whit studding used here are for first fit purposes. Finding whitworth nuts and bolts that look right is becoming harder and harder. The ratchet plate is for the handbrake and the other for the reversing lever detents.

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Then you need to make some lever bases. Scroll up and you'll see a pile of lenths of 2" round bar. They are for turning into the lever bases but they do need to look right which makes things much slower. This is the handbrake lever halfway through the manufacturing process. Start with the round bar and turn it into this. The lever for the handbrake slips into the hole in the end and is clamped in place by the clamp bolt which is why there is a slit in the open end. The other end is tapered and fits to the actuating shaft. One end has been somewhere near finished while you'll probably note that the other end is only part way through the welding/grinding/finishing process.

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See? Welding spatter and grinding marks. They'll be gone soon.

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While the other end is a bit closer...

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The reversing lever is more complicated. In an effort to squeeze everything in the reversing lever pivots on the handbrake shaft so one turns inside the other. This makes sense when you see it but trying to work things out from drawings gets a bit confusing which is why you might see yellow marker paint on things. I find that if my attention slips I end up welding things on back to front which would bring me down a bit. So this is a getting somewhere near reversing lever base. Again, this started as bits of round and flat bar which was cajoled with lathe, milling machine, boring machine, welder and grinder into something that starts to look like a casting.

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This is the other end. This started as a piece of flat plate 15mm thick and 70mm wide. You start to get quite good at sculpting things with a 5" angle grinder. The whole at the end is only pilot drilled which why is looks so wee.

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In the next update these bits should start to look a bit more assembled like the finished item so should make more sense to those who don't know what a set of Super control levers are meant to look like.

The S has been taking up a lot of time lately so the ony other bit that has been worked on are the track rod ends. Here they are waiting to have the holes bored in them to take the ends.

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And here is a pile of S Type cylinder heads waiting to be machined. We are currently trying to find the best way of stopping the exhaust valve seats corroding which is what knackers the heads after a bit of use - up until now people just recut the seats until you run out of metal. And no, valve seat inserts aren't the answer. Not without making modifications to the pattern which we don't have access to.

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Just to show that things get finished eventually here is the S out on a test run a couple of weeks ago. There have been some issues with the exhaust valve clearances going to cock (which is beyond critical on these things) but I think we're on top of that now. When it is on song it is a truly splendid theng to drive. Certainly way easier and more pleasant than the Pioneer. It's chuntering along at about 25mph in this shot. It's blowing off because we're coming down hill with the throttle closed. 

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Out in the traffic. Its 0-25mph time is quite brisk and it makes it much easier to drive in traffic. Local viewers may recognise the junction we've just been over (we're coming back from Dunfermline) where getting going really bloody quickly is a good thing to do.

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Finally this is our boring machine. It was bought in the early 90s and I believe it came out of Yarrows place. Those who know about that sort of thing will spot straight away that it is a bit crap because it doesn't have a live spindle. This is a weapons grade pain in the arse and it makes milling/drilling  a right faff. The problem is that most boring machines that come on the market are usually about the size of a house a cost about the same. If anyone on their travels/snooping round old places sees one of this size or the even better one size bigger but with a live spindle we would be very interested indeed.

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For reference this is a library photo of a Richards boring machine of a size and spec that would be beyond awesome. The live spindle means that it has a quill that moves independently of the boring head.

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Just wanted to stick a couple of photos up because I'm aware the last couple of updates have featured very little other than bits of metal in funny shapes that are unlikely to mean anything to anyone who hasn't driven themselves mad trying to understand a poor quality general arrangement drawing.

This is the reversing and handbrake levers sitting in place as I try to decide how long to make things. This should give a slightly better idea of what all those bits of metal were being made for. This is the handbrake lever. Note how you have to clamber over them to get through the door and into the cab. And we think the Peugeot 307 had a piss poor driving position. Pull the lever back to put the handbrake on, press the button on the top (not there yet, just the operating rod) and let it forward to take it off. The handbrake is just a parking brake. You never need to use it on the road.

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This should give a slightly better idea of the problem. You can see where the levers are and where the boiler is. The big block poking out of the boiler is the throttle valve which gets about as hot as Hell so you want to keep your knee as far from it as possible. However, you are also trapped by the levers - you can probably work out where the reversing lever will sit once I've cut a hole in the floor to fit it. - so you need to move those as far to the outside as possible. But if I move them too far I trap my fingers on the cab upright when I let the handbrake off. What Setinel drew would be intolerable so you just tinker with sizes and positions until you find something that isn't too awful. I'm quite pleased with how convincing my handiwork looks.

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That is all. Just wanted to show I had been doing something useful rather than just welding and grinding lumps of metal.

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Good progress, fine thread.

Bored my wife with as much as I could remember from this thread when we encountered the Waggon in Glasgow museum of things with wheels.

Bonus "like" for the VW notchback in the picture on your wall.

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Better do a quick update even though progress appears to be slow. Why is it so slow? Well was it Michelangelo who said something about the sculture already being in the stone, you just have to release it? Probably not but it will do. Well instead of a block of stone you have a lump of steel. In this case you cut eight inches off a length of 2.5" bar.

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Then all you need to do is release the finished item. In this case you are trying to release a rod end yoke for the reversing lever mechanism.

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The point is that it takes a whole day to release this from the round bar. Then you need to make the clevis pin and the bronze bush. And then you need to do it all again because the rod has two ends on it. A whole weekend to make two wee bits. However, once you have those and have made the cam control lever (another day) you just need a length of 5/8 bar and you have the reversing lever getting closer. This is the engine end. There is a cover to make up that fills in the big hole in the cam control box.

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And this is the end under the footplate. Yes, I know. Long bolts. And metric ones at that. You won't see them soon.

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Which means that the levers start to look even more like levers

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And now you start to get more idea of how pokey the driver's seat is. The round thing poking up from the bottom of the picture is the brake valve that I'm trying to work out where to put it. Incidentally, the levers are meant to be odd. I have no idea why. I'm just going from the drawing.

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Before I take the levers any further I need to get some way with the brake mechanism at the rear. This lets us know how the handbrake linkage should be routed. First we need three lengths of heavy angle. The braking system is a little crude but it is very effective. The steam cyclinder pushes on a balance bar which in turn pulls on the brake levers. The balance bar sits between guides to keep it moving in the right direction. These bits of angle are the start of the frame that takes the cylinder and the guides.

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And then you need to machine the brake cylinder. First you need to remember how to use the boring machine because it's been a while since you've used it to do this sort of thing. This was yesterday's job. Additional to this we got a picture of the pattern for the rear brake shoes which was quite exciting.  More of that next time.

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What else? The track rod ends got finished. Quick to say but just fitting them up and making the dust covers took another few days.

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A track rod end mounted on the steering box drop arm. About the only bit that is missing is the light spring which holds the dust cover in place.

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And the other two track rod ends are already fitted to the track rod and fitted to the front axle. Yes, I know the bolts are too long. 

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Meanwhile on the nearside the hub has been drilled and offered up. Now there needs to be twenty wheel studs made to hold the wheel on. There is a posh bronze cap covers up the big nut on the outside. It is not far off being on its front wheels.

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This is the start of some new tappets for the S to an improved design. Trying to keep S tappets at the correct setting seems to be a little tricky and since the valve clearances are very, very critical this is not convenient. We are designing some new tappets which should hopefully stay where they are put.

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And finally, here's a picture of the S sump. It looks the same as last time. However, it has had a lot of time and head scratching trying to work out how the device for getting water out of the sump (water gets in as steam which blows past the piston rings). After much thought it now has a new syphon (they call it a syphon but it bloody well isn't) which does appear to work but a run on the road should confirm that.

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I won't go into how it works because it is very dull for people who don't really care but essentially water separates from the oil (it's special oil) and sinks to the bottom of the sump where it drains out but it drains out in a way that keeps the oil in. There is something that offends me as an engineer about carefully reassembling an engine, filling the sump with oil (it's a dry sump design) and then getting the watering can and tipping water into the crankcase to test that the system is actually working. Steamers, eh?

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, JimH said:

I won't go into how it works because it is very dull for people who don't really care

Aww...how about if we say please really nicely?  I don't think there's anything on this thing that would bore me.

 

Very little to add to most of this for the most part...just in awe really.  I'm bashing my head against a wall trying to get a bunch of 3/8" wheel studs made... I'd not even know where to start with this.

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A drawing speaks a thousand words. I don't know if you can make this out but what you are looking at is sketch F (bottom row third from left) which shows the "syphon" assembled. You also need to understand that the crankcase (the syphon is screwed into the bottom of the crankcase) is dry. Oil runs out of the bearings and drains into the sump through two 1" holes in the bottom of the case. The sump is the box with the sight glass and brass drain cock which is bolted under the crankcase in the photo above. Ignore the other sight glass in the picture - the two gearboxes at either end of the crankcase are not dry.

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Right. Once the oil has drained into the sump any water which is entrained in the oil separates and sinks to the bottom. The starting water level is about 1/4" higher than the bottom of the outer tube and the starting oil level is fractionally below the top of the inner tube.  Ignore the blanking cap on the bottom of the inner tube. This is only used when the oil pump goes tits up and you have to overfill the crank case to get you home. Normally the bottom of the inner tube is open to atmosphere. So that is how things are at the beginning.

Now as more steam blows by the piston rings  - very little in the case of this waggon because most of it is brand new - the water level and therefore the oil level rises above the level of the top of the inner tube and liquid is expelled onto the road. However, because oil cannot enter the space between the inner tube and the outer tube only water is dribbled out rather than oil. So you will see that calling it a syphon is silly because there is no syphon action, just the liquid level rising and overflowing but the outer pipe stops oil entering the drain so the condition of the liquid inside the "syphon" and outside the "syphon" are different. The spout sticking up into the crankcase appears to be an overflow for the crankcase. We are still trying to work out what the bloody hell that is there for.

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There doesn't appear to have been a lot a visible progress but there are some reasons for that. First up, here is one of the front hubs.

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All very shiny and somewhere near done. Those with memories longer than a goldfish will note that since the last photo of a hub it's grown some studs. The idea was that we would get the local machine shop to make them because we need 40 of them and making things like that in our workshop is very, very dull. However, the best price that came back was that it was going to be not too far short of a grand so someone, namely not me, got to stand in fron tof the lathe for a very long time making them. Nice eh? You should be able to make out in this picture that the threads are left handed which complicates things a little more.

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So 20 studs later it now has a pair of useable front hubs - the rears can wait for now. The next thing that has taken up a fair bit of time is the S which has had one or two issues impairing its ability to work properly. Sentinel uses poppet valves (like what yer car has got) which work well in a car but are not the brightest idea in a steam engine. It is absolutely critical (in bold and double underlined) that the valve clearances are absolutely spot on. By critical I mean that it is very, very important. The problem is that Sentinel designed a valve adjuster which is, to put it mildly, cack. The Sentinel adjuster is the one on the right.

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It's not super clear from this picture but the end of the valve stem is threaded and your adjuster screws onto that. The hole in the end at the bottom of the picture is where the ball ended push rod fits. What you will also see is the tapered thread on the outside of the adjuster with a matching nut and slots milled into that thread. The idea is that you set that valve clearance by winding the adjuster up and down the valve stem then once it is in the right place you tighted up the big nut and it clamps the adjuster down on the valve stem. All well and good.

Not really, it is shit. You pull the lock nut up stupid tight and it still barely hangs onto the valve stem. This means that once things get hot the clearances go off and it doesn't like that very much at all. So we went back to the old drawing board and made up another adjuster with a proper lock nut. The prototype one is the one on the left. This works in just the same way except the lock nut goes face to face with the adjuster over a nice big area so you nip it up and it clamps the valve stem as tight as a <insert your own metaphor here>. Check that the prototype fits in and then make four of them out of a proper steel and pop them on the exhaust valves which were the most problematic ones . The way the adjusters are designed make it easy to set the valves with the springs unloaded which means that you can feel when the clearances are right. By the way, the pushrods are ball ended at both ends so you can't set them with feeler gauges - you have to do it by feel which is even harder with the weight of the valve spring on them.

It went for a 40 mile run on Sunday to test them and the results were startling. Being set absolutely spot on meant that the engine runs perfectly balanced (if an exhaust valve on one cylinder starts not opening enough then it can't exhaust the steam fast enough which starts to throw things out of balance) and the adjusters stayed where they were put so it ran just as dandy when it got back as it did when we left.

In short I have completely forgiven the S for being rubbish. It will sit at 25mph all day long and will cheerfull average 23 in the hour without breaking sweat. Its spritely acceleration and well pucker brakes make it a piece of piss to drive in heavy traffic and the steering makes it a doddle to thread your way through towns. It will also canter up hills much faster that the previous Super ever would. It is a very, very powerful engine. On top of that all the work mentioned above to get the crankcase syphon to work properly were all worth it and it just sits there dripping just water from the bottom of the sump.   In summary, it's the dogs'.

Anyhoo, back to the next one.

Here is the water pump valve block being machined. The water pump runs all the time and it is this device that directs water to the boiler or if it is not needed to spill it back to the water tank. It is a bit fiddly.

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Cutting threads in a tight space. Good test of nerve.

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It's sitting on its side here. The funny shaped bit hanging down is the bit that carries the control arm that opens the by-pass valve. Actually, it opens the byepass valve because for some reason the parts book retains some archaic spellings.

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And the mechanical lubricator got dug out to start things about what patterns were needed to make the missing bits. This injects steam oil into the inlet manifolds to keep the cyliders lubricated.

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And the same got done for the brake valve. Steam brakes are ace. I love them.

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And talking of steam brakes the Supers didn't have them originally but a lot were converted to them in period. The reason for this is that the mechanical footbrake was not very good at all so you needed to rely on reverse thrust all the time which was OK when you were bimbling around at 12mph in very little traffic. These days you need something a little more modern so we need some steam brakes.

Here is a very detailed drawing of what is needed made about 25 years ago by someone with some Tippex. Not quite as handy as first appears. It is a representation of the modification carried out by the Sentinel service agent in Liverpool, apparently.

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And here is the start of my interpretation of their interpretation

48979247541_d413f6f508_o.jpg

The cylinder sits in the middle and the pushrod (not in yet) pushes forwards. The pushrod is connected to a cross bar which sits in two guides the top part of which are those two bits of channel which are pointing front/back. The brake rods are connected to that cross bar. The thing sits at an angle so everything pulls in a straight line and nothing gets bent. Sitting it at an angle also helps keep the cylinder drained. Ignore the long bolts at the moment because it's just getting fitted up.

48979428877_2433533152_o.jpg

Once it is in the right place it will get messed around with to make things look a bit more period. The fact it sticks above the chassis isn't an issue because the bearers for the floor of the body are 4" high. Almost none of this will be visible once the body is on.

Finally, I got a budget cost for lettering the finished item up in gold leaf in Boots' livery (see the picture of the Standards somewhere near the start). Yelp.

 

 

 

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It looks pretty but Sentinel didn't have a vast amount of experience working in aluminium and by the time the S came along the coffers were as dry as a dry thing. As a result nothing in the engine is very well designed and the quality of the castings is not good at all. Nothing polishes properly because there is so much crap in the metal. If you look very hard you'll see a plate in the bottom of the sump. That isn't meant to be there but since the bottom of the sump was cracked when we got it (I assume water had frozen in it) it needed repaired. The metal is so shitty that it just refuses to weld so the damaged area was cut out and a new but very original looking sump plate was made complete with cooling fins and a magnet was cast to fill the gap.

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Yay! im always happy when I fire up the autoshite and see the Sentinel thread has an update 

its quite literally like Steampunk project binky :mrgreen:

some very nice and interesting work!

 

57 minutes ago, JimH said:

so someone, namely not me, got to stand in fron tof the lathe for a very long time making them. Nice eh? You should be able to make out in this picture that the threads are left handed which complicates things a little more.

you wouldn't be able to manufacture a set of Model 70 wheel studs would you? @Zelandeth has been having a harder then expected time finding some or finding a shop who will even make some!

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My only complaint on this thread is I can only "like" each post once! I love this thread, the workmanship is of an incredible standard (I wish I could do work nearly that good) and such an interesting subject. Jim, my cap is truly doffed at you, and I look forward to every update. Thank you for posting your story here.

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59 minutes ago, JimH said:

Can you provide a sketch?

sadly I dont have a copy of TSD5446

but I do know a guy with a full set of Model 70 technical drawings, it's just trying to get the guy who has them to actually digitise/archive them properly that is the problem!

 

heres a picture of the wheel stud in Zels thread, https://autoshite.com/topic/29443-zels-motoring-adventureslada-citroen-mercedes-ac-model-70-2610-idiots-in-audis/?do=findComment&comment=1870813

but i dont know if this would be an issue for you? https://autoshite.com/topic/29443-zels-motoring-adventureslada-citroen-mercedes-ac-model-70-2610-idiots-in-audis/?do=findComment&comment=1896721

 

 

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