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PhilA

1951 Pontiac Chieftain - Wires

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41 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Put it this way. It's hard to keep in a straight line when you press the pedal down.

 

Phil

ask the boss to show you how :P *runs

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Ok. Chieftain time!

20200629_112235.thumb.jpg.2640c1f6c4d7cabc43e55c4b09b3c7b7.jpg

Recall a while back, I dropped the keys in the parking lot at the store and someone pinched them rather than turn them in? 

Decided today to remedy that. So, I pulled the lock barrel out of the trunk lid.

 

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Using nothing other than what is in that picture (.0015 feeler gauge, bent paper clip, pliers) I picked the lock and disassembled it. Books say that the side bar style of lock cannot be picked with regular tools. It can but it's not that easy. Anyhow.

 

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With it all pulled apart I was able to get the "code" of the lock. There are only 4 height steps on these barrels so I am going to go to the hardware store later and see if they have the correct blanks, buy a couple and see if I can file my own keys to make the lock work.

Lock picking does give a certain sense of achievement and is moderately therapeutic. Certainly a fun puzzle.

 

Phil

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First lock I've ever tried to pick.

 

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Bought a blank. Marked it up to depth.

 

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Filed it down.

 

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Cleaned and lubricated the lock, reassembled it. Now I have a key for the trunk and the glove box again. I'll get a spare cut from it.

 

Next up, I'll remove the door handles and find out what key blank they take- looks to be a much later shape, 80's truck. I'll try cut a key for that then I'll be able to operate the locks. That'll be nice.

Total outlay for today $2.

Phil

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17 minutes ago, somewhatfoolish said:

Are you going to try and make them all the same?

If I can I'll keep the original key setup- one for doors and ignition, one for trunk and glovebox.

 

I'll probably end up with 3. Doors, ignition, trunk.

 

Phil

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This is one department I'd be tempted to throttle the maker of the camper bit of my van.  Why on earth did they feel the need to have a different key for every single locker/door?!?  Means there are seven keys on the keyring for that vehicle alone.  Side door, luggage locker, toilet access hatch, gas locker, water fill cap, then the doors/ignition and fuel cap for the actual van.  Why the side door, gas locker and luggage locker couldn't share the same key I've no idea.

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3 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

Why on earth did they feel the need to have a different key for every single locker/door?!? 

Cheap.

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33 minutes ago, hairnet said:

nice

has the jeep got the same wheel?!!?!

 

They aren't dissimilar. It's one of the common Chrysler shapes for the last few years.

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20200630_163302.thumb.jpg.bcdad70dde9c25c83ae7f19373cafe7c.jpg

This afternoon I pulled the door card off.

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Liberated the lock, bought a couple blanks to use if I can't code it to the ignition key and had a spare trunk key cut from the master I filed yesterday.

 

Phil

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Decoded that and cut a key. Not enough pieces in common with the ignition sadly but I have a key that works both door handle locks now, at least.

 

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This one needs adjustment and lubrication, but it does try to move the mechanism. The driver's side is missing the rod for the pin... That needs to be addressed.

 

Phil

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I reassembled the door lock (funny, discovered after the fact you can pull the handle off without taking the door card off), I need a new rubber O-ring for inside the handle. The old one fell apart. It serves two purposes. First, it stops the button going CLACK if it's released hard, second it positions the lock mechanism to engage properly with the barrel. Right now I have to push the button in slightly to get the door to lock and unlock, but the driver's side works properly. I will pull the door card off the passenger side, remove the button rod and copy it for the driver's side.

 

Phil

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Decided to wing it, so I went liberated a plastic coat hanger with a metal hanging hook because it looked about the right diameter and length.

 

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Heated it and bent it to shape.

 

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Added a piece of insulation off a wire to bring the diameter up and give the pin something to grab on to.

 

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Unlocked

 

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Locked

 

That'll work.

 

Phil

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I've been informed that the most common cause of the windows breaking in these cars is either deteriorated, missing or otherwise faulty window channels.

The glass gets hung up going up, the operator gives a jolly good heave on the regulator handle and CRAK, the pressure point created by the lift arm in the center of the glass support fractures the glass.

Makes sense, both windows that are broken the cracks originate from the lower edge in the middle.

 

--Phil

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Had a little time today so started on the wiring again. 

Got the alternator primary run through and terminated. Ran the primary from the fuse block up to the group terminal on the light switch- marked the outside of the wire where to cut by scoring it with my thumb nail. Got up out of the car, went get my big wire cutters, crimped the end on then found it about 4" too short. I cut the wrong mark! Argh.

So, I need to go get a few more feet of wire and a couple more connectors. Not the end of the world, for sure.

 

Phil

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On 2 July 2020 at 3:07 AM, PhilA said:

Decided to wing it, so I went liberated a plastic coat hanger with a metal hanging hook because it looked about the right diameter and length.

 

20200701_205102.thumb.jpg.efad6d43523fd93a6ed9b6d3f732beb8.jpg

Heated it and bent it to shape.

 

20200701_205157.thumb.jpg.f1297b30ff6e2bb0f0ce1e92a2da78f6.jpg

Added a piece of insulation off a wire to bring the diameter up and give the pin something to grab on to.

 

20200701_205414.thumb.jpg.0b3a55dde7f4e856e75c82062404dc9d.jpg

Unlocked

 

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Locked

 

That'll work.

 

Phil

I don't remember those lock buttons on any British-market cars older than about '68. Weren't they a new thing on the first Escort? 

Were they a GM innovation?

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1 hour ago, Asimo said:

I don't remember those lock buttons on any British-market cars older than about '68. Weren't they a new thing on the first Escort? 

Were they a GM innovation?

Not sure. I don't know when they became a thing here- though you still get the "lightswitch" rocker locks and sliding ones by the handles common here too.

Phil

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20200705_142734.thumb.jpg.af30c992b556545f30a025630f83fcdc.jpg

Today there was quite a lot of this.

 

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Decided to double up and solder the connections.

 

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Covered up with heat shrink.

Why? Now the charging system is up to spec with the correct gauge wiring for the updated alternator. 

I also put a heavy shunt across the ammeter connections, so that roughly halved the current through it, meaning on a discharged battery revving the engine doesn't cause the meter to peg out any more. I'm happy about that, it was a concern it'd run too hot. Most of the time there's not going to be much current going through it because the alternator can provide 60+ Amps, with everything electrical switched on the draw is about 30 Amps- the original dynamo was good for 30A which was a bit underspecced to be honest. With everything on (lights, radio, fan) there would have been nothing left to charge the battery. This alternator changes that but the original system wasn't up to it.

But, with exception of redoing the ignition wire from the switch not the fuse box and terminating the wire for the under-hood light the rewire is done. I'll then loom it up and call that part complete.

Phil

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