Long* running landy 88" project - Flocking hell

[PhilA]

That's about 75psi- did you have the throttle wide open when you cranked it over on that gauge?

 

Phil

[jakebullet]

I didn't have the manifolds on, so I guess full throttle. It was almost stopping at TDC on every stroke, so battery too flat? I think before the pushrod bending incident it was 100 psi with a charged battery.

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

Need to do it with a decent bit of umphf in the battery.

With the manifolds/carb etc off your not really comparing like with like.

Also I suspect your gauge may be reading lowish.

 

HTH

[jakebullet]

Fresh fuel, optimistic adding of radiator etc, and it lives!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOzvwQCDNw8&feature=youtu.be

 

Also shows my super high quality asbestos rich falling down shed. Will I get it finished before the shed falls down? Place bets now!

 

It warmed up ok and didn't overheat / throw a rod / burst into flames. So I took a plug out and retested:

 

 

I think that's a win.

 

However the block is full of rust / crap in the cooling system. Is the best plan just keep filling it with clean water, heat up, drain and hope it eventually all flushes out?

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

If you have some dishwasher tablets put one in the rad when you fill it, run up to full heat for 5 or more minutes, drain , flush , repeat as many times as you need/can be bothered.

[jakebullet]

Time to face the fear and do it. This evil must be removed.

 

 

However I'm very wet, and cannot face moving ten tons of shite to get to my engine crane again. Plus Ma has told me to bugger off. So I'm going for plan B, I remember reading many years ago you can take the transfer box off in situ, take it out in 2 parts for less pain. So I'm going to try that.

 

So I undid the mountings, jacked up slightly and stuck a block of wood under the bell housing.

 

 

Removed the handbrake assembly, and the bottom plate from the transfer box. Next problem is removing this shaft:

 

 

 

It's a reluctant bugger, I suspect because of corrosion between steel & aluminium. Bit of gentle heating, wd40, tap with chisel and it's free. A big heavy gear, bearings & shims drop out, and I'm hoping the parts book shows where the shims go 'cos I haven't got a clue. I can then undo the 3 nuts inside the transfer case, and the external ones.

 

It's free! And scary.

 

 

Nothing else to do but grab it and pull off the studs. I'd give it 3.5 out of 5 heavy bastard spanners. Bit of leg squashing, and finger trapping later and it's free! Woo!

 

 

Overall I think this is a good way of getting the gearbox out. I've just got to pull the main box, but I think it will be only moderately heavy. Plus more space, I could try and drop it on a trolley jack. Do the same on my spare gearbox, refitting is reverse of removal etc. Something for another day though.

 

Mood: upbeat.

[Rocket88]

Remember to let it fall off the trolley jack and trap your foot underneath it.

[jakebullet]

And we're oooot! Slightly lighter than the transfer box actually.

 

 

To the crap pile!

 

 

Gearbox has oil in it shock!

 

 

The main gearbox also has oil. Huzzah! Oh, and water too. Boo! This is the worst of it, I think it will be ok?

 

 

Yonks later... I'm free.

 

 

One of the internal nuts was only finger tight. That would be cos the stud is sheared. Double boo!

 

 

Some other cack handed git has obviously been in here before, but decided the stud screws in half a turn so it'll be rite!

 

Suggestions from the hive mind? Try welding a nut on to remove? Do without?

[Geep]

That might come out easily with a tap round from a sharp centre punch or some light drilling. If you decide to weld a bolt on to it to get it out, weld on to the top of the remains first to build up something you know you can weld to then weld the bolt to it. Looks like It's in ali so you won't weld the stud to the casing. Didn't you get some left hand drill bits once? 

 

Did you ever find out, or have you looked yet, as to why the old box was stuck in gear? I love a good mystery and would be interested to know the result. Of course, if you don't want to then don't bother on my behalf. 

[somewhatfoolish]

Left hand drill would be my first stop on the route to broken thing removal heaven, followed by an extractor, but not the cheap shit ones that are glass hard and shear any time you put more than half a fairy's weight of torque on it.

[jakebullet]

Yay, stud is out! Left handed drill worked like a dream, drilled down 4mm then caught and whizzed the stud out.

[jakebullet]

I found this quality* used part in my shed today:

 

 

I used to have it on my series 2, but I'm not super convinced it's a series item. Vague recollection it could be from a lightweight?

 

I'm hoping it will fit in the same place on a series 3 bulkhead (jammed above gearbox tunnel), but don't have the lower dash fitted to try it out. Does anyone know?

 

Part number is code: FHR2428/12 Model R240. Googling just brings up people selling replacement stickers with those part numbers on them.

 

The matrix appears to be ok, well holds water anyway:

 

 

There are no mounting brackets. There is evidence a young / more stupid me has been at it with an angry grinder. I think it was just hanging on the pipes. Any ideas how it should mount?

 

[Christine]

self tappers or pop rivets would be  LR approved !

[N Dentressangle]

If you've got a Series 3 bulkhead then the proper S3 heater matrix / fan / tinware bits are cheap enough on Ebay, and probably easier than bodging a late IIA panel heater in to fit. The IIA panel heater will probably cover your costs amply if you sell it.

 

That would be my approach anyway - a working S3 heater with a new matrix is much better than Land Rover's earlier efforts.

[jakebullet]

It's got a series 3 heater on it already. I'm hoping I can get both on and maybe get enough heat out to be measurable.

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

There is a way of stacking two Series 3 heater matrix so that the air coming thro the first one then goes through the second one to get the air much hotter.

What sort of body are you going to use?

Cause if its a truck cab the volume to warm is so much less.

On my hard top (with side windows) we have a curtain that hangs from the roof down the back of the seats that goes in for the winter - it makes a huge difference but if you are going to have passengers in the back they would freeze.

Perhaps you could put the S2a square heater in back for the rear passengers?

[jakebullet]

It's a hard top with large windows. Good idea with the curtain, I'm intending it to be a two seater.

[Squirrel2]

I found this quality* used part in my shed today:

 

20190307_144409.jpg

 

I used to have it on my series 2, but I'm not super convinced it's a series item. Vague recollection it could be from a lightweight?

 

I'm hoping it will fit in the same place on a series 3 bulkhead (jammed above gearbox tunnel), but don't have the lower dash fitted to try it out. Does anyone know?

 

Part number is code: FHR2428/12 Model R240. Googling just brings up people selling replacement stickers with those part numbers on them.

 

The matrix appears to be ok, well holds water anyway:

 

20190307_144858.jpg

 

There are no mounting brackets. There is evidence a young / more stupid me has been at it with an angry grinder. I think it was just hanging on the pipes. Any ideas how it should mount?

 

20190307_155845.jpg

Yes, that’s a heater from a Series 3 Lightweight - by the looks of it. A flap each side plus connections to feed demist tubes. Heat output is absolutely dire and fan does little more than stir the fug.

 

I’d look for ways of building up a better series heater or try and fit something from a later vehicle (Defender?).

 

Squirrel2

[JeeExEll]

Just an idea . . .

 

 

Not shown on a Landy obviously but interesting idea.

Could use some bypass diverter valves for when it's not needed. Toasty warm in winter.

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

The Frankenheater!

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/series-3-heater-improvement.97180/

 

The curtain we use is one of the after-market fume curtains I got cheap second hand.

I sewed on some loops at the top and it hangs from some L brackets on the underside of the roof strengthener, velcro around the top seat belt mounts and tucks between the bulkhead and the seat back.

It has a clear plastic panel and hardly affects the rear vision.

 

If I was going to a curtain on the cheap I would just use one of those cheap clear plastic tarpaulins off e-bay.

 

HTH

[jakebullet]

Oh dear. I ignored the commandment of "thou shalt not prod". Spotted a bit that looked odd behind the upper dash top, so took it off for a better look.

 

Someone has a large tin of glass fibre wob:

 

 

 

 

 

Oh bugger. 

 

It's mega weird though as usually the entire top of the bulkhead has dissolved. The outer skin is actually perfectly fine. There's metal under the windscreen. When the inner section is removed it cleans up nicely:

 

 

Unfortunately the vent flap area is wider than my metal folder. And I'm crap at making panels. But at least it's mostly hidden. I have a good in the vent area series 2 bulkhead to attempt to copy.

 

 

Bit of a bend later. It'll do. Chop down with the plasma.

 

 

Moar fixing l8rs.

 

 

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

Ooops!

Well at least you will know it is sound one you are done!

[jakebullet]

Bit moar crap fixing. Clamped last times section up and a plate for where the holes are and tacked them together:

 

 

Then cut round the top plate with a 1mm angle grinder disk. Welded the joint (badly) on the repair plates and lots of grinding to give this:

 

 

My 27 year old migmate 130 is feeling a bit ill, I can only get a smooth weld out of it on max power which is not very good on thin tin. Maxing excuses for being crap now.

 

Bonus free spoon trapped behind the dash:

 

 

 

[N Dentressangle]

Looks fine to me.

 

As you say, it's all hidden anyway, and what the eye don't see the heart don't grieve over...

[jakebullet]

Bulkhead top finished. Not my finest hour, but will look ok when dash is back in.

 

 

Dash is pretty shit.

 

 

 

 

Brilliant design. Really thin gauge tin with a foam backing to hold water against it for maximum dissolve. Equally shit ones are eleventy million pounds on evilbay so no option but to fix* it. 

 

It's beyond my skills to fab up a new end, so it will have to be wob, AA book of the car style. It does feel a lot more rigid.

 

[jakebullet]

So after wobbing the top I decided to fuck flock it up with a flocking kit from ebay. You get a bag of nasty nylon dust, some magic glue, a wonky paint brush, a squeezy bottle and some impossible instructions. You have to put an even coat of glue on, then within 5 minutes before the glue goes off puff the squeezy bottle evenly to create clouds of nylon dust that you have to put on evenly.

Yes, I fucked it up. You can see the filler, and the brush strokes.

Fortunately it doesn't like panel wipe, so a soak and scrape later you can get the mess off:

 

Thinking time for plan B.

I rattle canned it black to hide the filler better.

 

Then broke out the tools. Old spray gun to apply an even coat of glue. Got out my powder coating device machine. The flock can't be that different to powder coating powder? Annoying fine dust, goes everywhere. Probably can be attracted by electrostatic charge. Let's give it a go.

Result:

I think that will do. Bit thin in places, but it's only a shonky old series.

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

Flocking Hell Jake!