Jump to content
dollywobbler

Dollywobbler's Foxy little number

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

Well that could have turned out worse...

D7fS4lhXYAE6N0t.jpg

 

It isn't' completely smooth, but it does appear to be solid.

looks far better then anything I could pull off probably!

a bit of filler and sanding and it should be good right? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, just a bit worried about longevity. It's just regular household emulsion. I've known friends have good results with the stuff, but that was years ago when it was full of nasty chemicals. Slightly worried this water-based stuff is going to be shite, so may need to find a way to seal it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thankfully, my pressure washer is mostly gathering dust...

Yacht varnish is one idea, but I don't want to lose the matt effect I've gone for. I've got one tin of aerosol matt acrylic sealer, which I might try. It'll take a few of them to do the entire car though, and I might actually have to mask bits of it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, dollywobbler said:

I'd better not paint the roof white then...

Second coat is looking much better. Ditched the roller, went for a brush.

D7gb7evXYAAYKUN.jpg

Oh yes paint the roof white, that would be a really fun subtle nod to an early Mk12 Invacar that only pretty me and Egg would get anyway :mrgreen:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, here's the thing. So far, the paint job has cost me about £15 - and I've still got three quarters of a tin of paint left. This is a question of just how cheaply you can paint a car. Start using proper, actually-suitable paint and it starts getting very expensive. I think I'll for a few cans of clear matt lacquer and a darned good waxing and see how that fares.

 

Mind you, I must remember that I haven't painted the canopy, bonnet or mirrors yet...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't want to piss on your chips but emulsion isn't even slightly water resistant nor will it stick properly to any non-porous surface.

Clear laquer over emulsion is a "shabby chic chest of drawers ruiner" technique.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

Yeah, here's the thing. So far, the paint job has cost me about £15 - and I've still got three quarters of a tin of paint left. This is a question of just how cheaply you can paint a car. Start using proper, actually-suitable paint and it starts getting very expensive.

I think this paint job cost me around £15

39800792070_7284403253_z.jpgRJC_1104 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

39800799620_d0a1fb1b05_z.jpgRJC_1091 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

40716944505_35e529273a_z.jpgRJC_1098 by srblythe, on Flickr

 

I used a generic hammerite knock off through a spray gun. It was a little bit more durable and just as inexpensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coincidentally, I noticed while perusing the magazine racks at Tescos that the June issue of Car Mechanics has an article on "budget paint jobs": Plastidip etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By sutty2006
      So I bought this omega in 2015/16 with the intention of doing a banger rally to Benidorm. The engine had a horrible grinding noise and the auto box was lazy. I spent £100 buying it, £50 on oil and filter for the gearbox and sold it for £200. I sold it to a distant mate who put another 2.5 Diesel engine in and put it back on the road. He’s been using it as a daily ever since. He bought a later omega in better condition with the same engine and offered me this one back or scrap it. £50 exchanged palms and the Omega is now back on my driveway. Epic. 
      So the plan is this. I’m going to let it sit on my drive for a while, as next year I’m going to do another Banger rally. Cool. Then on return, the engine and Auto gearbox will be transplanted into my diesel Carlton. I hate having a manual gearbox so a diesel auto carlton is a great idea. Whether it happens or not is another thing. But I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. 

    • By BoggyMires
      Now in my mucky hands is this S Type Mondeo Lincoln. It's not like a Mondeo Lincoln  though, just uses some of the bits as it's from a time when jaguar was experiencing some 'technical' issues. 
      It has managed to hang onto the feel of a premium car but for the use of cost saving interior plastics made from the same gear that land Rover used in the discovery 2 of the same era, I know, I have one of those too! That has some BMW switches in it though.
       
      This jaag was cheap. Why did I buy it? All I wanted really was a small convertible for the summer to smoke around in, this is the polar opposite. 
      The price was good but these cars are without their expensive issues. I liked the body. It's virtually rust free, a freak of nature and it had a set of premium tyres on it which suggested it's had some money chucked at it.
       
      That's all I wanted really from it. The bolt on stuff and mechanicals are fairly easy to sort out, plus I can upgrade as I feel fit.
       
      Today I've been bonding with this machine. It's got to beat the 3 series I have as a good daily or it's out. It's going to be a tall order, the 318 is bionic!
       
      I have many miles to do in the next few months, I need a motorway cruiser auto. The odd jaunt for a few hundred miles is the 318's and my clutch legs limit!
       
      Now, this car has been owned previously by a few members on here, the work it requires is because it is a cheap car and 20 years old and has a jaguar badge on it. There are a few issues with it.
       
      As said, it has to be put into immediate service. I've owned it 2 days and it's already done over 300 miles, and will do all that again tomorrow! So let's get started!
       
      After about 100 miles yesterday, I reversed it for the first time in my ownership and when braking the noise was alarming! Had a look and the outer rear brake pad was metal on the disc. I only had another 60 miles to go!
      A phone call on the move saw a set in stock back home to be picked up. Sweet.
       
      That was yesterday, I've got a day now to change the rear pads and sort out the dropped headlamps with a couple of screws... A couple of hours it'll be Sorted... He says...
       
      WIND BACK CALIPERS! Yes, they are. My special tool? Sorry? What? No tool?
      Well, I cobbled together a bar and a pair of molies but Christ, that was messing about! I wanted to secure the caliper to the mounting to hold it still but the sliders internal thread was cross threaded on both sliders, so I had to tap them out first. It worked but not without a fight. Then my neighbour came over to have a nose at the new aquisition... Him: Morning, how you getting on"?, Me: "Shit, you haven't got a brake caliper tool have you"? Him: "Yeah, I'll go get it". 
       
      LIFESAVER!!!
       

       
      Sticky slider syndrome ^
       

       
      Fully padded up ^
       
      I took a look around under there, it's nearly all shot. Most ball joints are exposed to the elements so all need replacing but not before a decent jet wash.
       

       

       
      There's little play in the joints so all that goes on the list of parts and graft! Wheels on, I loosened and torqued all the wheel nuts around the car and done the Tyre pressures, we were running soft all round.
       
      Next was the front lights. A screw mod can be done but I took the back off the units and they were, well toast. Nothing much holding the inner lenses still at all. There was only one thing for it...
       

       
      I had readied myself for this. I got hold of a replacement lamp mounting kit with all parts made from nylon. This involved dissecting the lamp which was tough! The mounts that came out, or what was left of them were weaker than Jacobs crackers and just crumbled. To get the bumper off, the plastic under tray bolts were all seized so I had to grind them off. More knackered parts were seen. The auto box cooler has shed most of it's cooling fins, the radiator is sweating and the power steering is hemorrhaging fluid on full lock. There's also a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and there's a high pitch whine at 1000 RPM which turns out to be the alternator. More for the list.
      Still, back to the lights. I need to be able to see tonight so I took a level off the tourings lights and marked on to a wheely bin, these are pretty spot on. Then I can use the bin for the Jaags lights and I won't be far off 
       

       
      Going back together nicely it was a good time to run some tcut over the faded lenses. They need a more intense compound and a machine but will do for now.
       

       
      Looks smart yo!
       
      Then it got dark...
       

       
      I then drove 120 miles in it and drove it like it was stolen. It had it, all of it! Slight brake judder at 90 and I couldn't get the alignment done as I had no time (see above pics)
       
      So now we have to price up priorities like the knackered joints on the rear and a full service, two Goodyears and investigate the power steering leak which, I'll hazard a guess at the rack seals are fubard. 
       
      So in summary, I got a bargain barge that has it's fair share of issues, the interior quality is a bit shocking in places but when the hammer is down, none of this matters! It fits in, it can be a proper giffer cruiser with radio two on at 30mph but it'll turn into a bruiser with some oldskool hardcore at a tonne. It's come to a good home.
    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
       
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
       
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
       
×
×
  • Create New...