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Has anyone had a lorry transported? Is it hi - NOW BODGE 50 HORSEBO11OX THREAD (Now with added turtles)


Mr_Bo11ox

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I think a key point is to inspect the screen rubber so it hasn't got any shite in its grooves, and also chuck it in a bucket of piping hot soapy water for half an hour before starting. Then it will be super soft and the soap will help lubricate it. Also a garden mister spray full of soapy water that you can spray round as you pull the rope out will help the job as well. The pukka rope is cheap enough to get hold of:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-RUBBER-SEAL-PULL-IN-CORD-FOR-CARS-TRUCKS-FITTING-REMOVAL/114194515516?hash=item1a9686063c:g:EtsAAOSwgEVenv-L

s-l1600.jpg

These look useful too:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-RUBBER-FITTING-TOOL-PLASTIC-SPATULA-ROUND-END-AND-CHISEL-END/123778166143?hash=item1cd1c0ed7f:g:VWIAAOSwI1Jc5r4y

 

s-l500.jpg

 

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I’ve fitted screens to 2 mk1 golfs, multiple Defenders and 2cvs and it always the same story.

You start thinking it’ll go in fine and after a while it gets stuck. A simple squirt of neat washing up liquid and it slides in beautifully. It’s a bit like tiling, never apply too much pressure.

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17 hours ago, Mr Laurence said:

Have you tried https://www.car-part.com for a windscreen yet? I’ve never used them myself, but they seem to have a database of cars in most of the scrap yards in the US and Canada. I had a quick look and they seem to have a few dodge van screens starting at about £50. Shipping might prove difficult though.

I’d trust ‘Damaged, Held or Lost’ about as much as i’d trust windscreen fitter 1 & 2

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I do love seeing updates on this thread, but really gutting for you with the screen. Makes me realise that Autoglass were actually pretty decent to me when they changed the screen on the Stellar - they damaged the replacement before installing and agreed to foot the bill for getting another one custom made.

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Gutted about the window - maybe something like this snake oil that gets advertised on Facebook ( cos its going to be quality innit if its on FB) might "repair" the crack so its not as prominent ?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zooarts-Repair-Cracked-Screen-Windshield/dp/B07JB3HYVD#:~:text=Because the ingredients match the,or other laminated glass windows.

 

 

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Changed a couple of disco rear windows, fitted the dyane windows with nothing but a dull old flat blade and a smidge of lube. But a plastic trim tool would be ideal if i can find mine when i need it. Take time, work it in evenly.

I've cracked one front screen which I was refitting as it the rubber was on the piss (Turned out the glass had been cut oversized in one corner) and a disco rear screen exploded in my hands when I put it down after I took it out the car. 

I've mentioned this on here before I think but my SJ had a large stone chip right in the pov, before the MOT I pulled the screen out and being flat glass I flipped the screen over so the chip was now on the inside of the passenger side. The rubbers very supple on SJ's so I can do them with just my fingers!

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That is indeed a complete arse about the screen.  If you can find another one, they really aren't that hard to change yourself.  I've changed a couple of Citroen CX windscreens, which are held in similarly.  The key is patience, fairy-up lipsquid and plenty of blunt plastic tools.  I've never managed to get the rope method to work properly, so I just work around doing it bit by bit.

The need for lubrication is absolute.  Without it the screen will be massively stressed: Rubber can grip very hard indeed over largeish areas, which seems to be what has happened here.

I was reminded of this when trying to re-fit the large rubber doughnut thingy into the bulkhead of a Berlingo that the steering column shaft goes through.  Dry, I couldn't even get it close to where it needed to be, and I was heaving on it will all my (fairly substantial) weight.  Absolutely no a chance in hell this thing was going to fit.

Put some fairy on the areas that needed to slip past the steelwork of the car, and hey presto, 5 minutes later its gone straight into position, the lip is engaged properly and I can even give it a little wiggle to make sure it's evenly seated.  The good thing with fairy liquid is that it will either rinse out over time, or dry up and seal remarkably well.  Highly recommended.

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Does tax and MOT exemption extend to these?  as a 1980 vehicle, it would qualify now.

I'm sure I've read somewhere that anything under 7.5 tonnes that is classified as a "dual purpose vehicle" (IE a motor caravan) not only can be tested as a class 7 MOT, but will also qualify for MOT/Tax exemption.

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11 minutes ago, Talbot said:

Does tax and MOT exemption extend to these?  as a 1980 vehicle, it would qualify now.

I'm sure I've read somewhere that anything under 7.5 tonnes that is classified as a "dual purpose vehicle" (IE a motor caravan) not only can be tested as a class 7 MOT, but will also qualify for MOT/Tax exemption.

I also wondered this, but my licence is too modern to cover 7.5 tonnes...otherwise i'd have taken a bite at it, it doesn't sound too bad...shagged brakes and a bit crusty. You'd probably get close to the 1800 back for the cooker and the solar panels if worst came to worst.

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Not really for the solar panels these days.  There's been a significant price crash in solar panels meaning second hand they're worth a few tenners each.  There might be £200 worth on that roof, no more.

£1800 might be a little over-priced for this.  Not least because the market is rather limited now due to so many more people not having the licence to drive it.

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10 minutes ago, Talbot said:

Does tax and MOT exemption extend to these?  as a 1980 vehicle, it would qualify now.

I'm sure I've read somewhere that anything under 7.5 tonnes that is classified as a "dual purpose vehicle" (IE a motor caravan) not only can be tested as a class 7 MOT, but will also qualify for MOT/Tax exemption.

Yes - the historic vehicle thing -you qualify if the vehicle is 40 + years old and there's no 'substantial changes' in the past 30 - you can apply to have a Private HGV exempted which is probably what the Dodge is currently classed as. (so it's the same as an old Landy or whatever - so long as you don't bang in new axles, engine, gearbox etc it's OK to go for historic vehicle).

That would get you MoT exempt (Happy Days!) - if the van was newer then it would be best to get the V5 changed to 'Motor Caravan' -  then gets you a private HGV tax class (and the right to a Class 4 MoT. Good bit is that the class 4 entitlement is usually limited to less than 3 tonnes (i.e. cars)  but can be any weight for motorhomes. Bad bit is you'll likely need to find a Class 7 place to test it due to the height/weight.
Class 7 is some fecked up monstrosity for over 3 tonnes but under 3.5 tonnes (i.e. my current horsebox) - same as a Class 4 in all but name and the fact that a lot of places won't do them due to height restrictions. Over 3.5. is the 'plating' 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Talbot said:

So a few bits of paperwork would likely see this able to be driven away MOT exempt, Tax exempt and on cheap classic insurance.  Provided your licence allows.  Almost sounds worth it.

I'm not sold on the Zebra theme though..

yeah that was a little bit carole baskins for my liking, but a few cans of poundland rattle paint can't make it look any worse than the cab already does.

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I'll take the liberty of updating the turtle news while I'm on.

So Maude abruptly stopped going up to the beach area one day after spending hours digging on previous days. I had a rifle through the sand but there was no sign of an egg. So I just left her to see what happened. Then one day there was a flipping egg in the bottom of the tank!!! We fished it out and buried it in the sand.

JLmTEG.jpg

That was probably a bad move as the sand is dry, unlike beach sand, and the shell dried out and collapsed in on itself a bit. A couple of weeks later I got the egg out and there was a bit of dried-out yolk in it but nowt else. Ah well that was the end of the egg story. I removed the beach area and put the tank back to 'standard'.

JLmohX.jpg

Then about a week ago I took them both out the tank to clean the tank out properly. I stuck them under the shower while I did it as they seem to like that. When it was time to put them back in the tank I found another egg rolling aorund in the bath!!!!

JLmYpS.jpg

This time I've put it in a tupperware of damp sand so it doesnt dry out, and put the tupperware in the porch which gets well hot on sunny days so we'll see if owt happens (hopefully it won't as I seem to have enough animal-related responsibility already)

Here's Harold scurrying about on the bottom of the tank:

JLmBpI.jpg

And heres Maude in the classic 'did you spill my pint eat my prawn' pose

JLmnIt.jpg

 

 

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22 hours ago, Talbot said:

Does tax and MOT exemption extend to these?  as a 1980 vehicle, it would qualify now.

I'm sure I've read somewhere that anything under 7.5 tonnes that is classified as a "dual purpose vehicle" (IE a motor caravan) not only can be tested as a class 7 MOT, but will also qualify for MOT/Tax exemption.

That 100 looks like it'd be over 7.5T though - 8-stud wheels are normally 10T plus.  Unless it's been plated down.

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  • 2 months later...

ALright gang hows it going

I will knock up and update on this thing soon, as following the windscreen debacle I downed tools for a few weeks, but I did pick them up again and have actually done a bit on this old knacker. IN the meantime though heres a 'poll' of sorts:

I need to get the rear brakes to bits on this so I can overhaul the wheel cylinders and no doubt replace seized-in bleed nipples etc. Also, the rear springs are well tired and are completely flat when the thing is sitting on its wheels. I reckon they have lost at least 3" of ride height. I am thinking about trying to get them re-tempered/re-arched.

Anyway for that I need to scrabble about under the truck. I've jacked it up (gives my trolley jack a mega workout, this truck is one heavy bastard!!!) and used my axle stands like so. Front wheels are wedged.

$64,000 question: Would any of you lot get under this?

(edited)_P1090610.JPG

I've only got car axle stands, but theyre rated at 1500kg. The truck supposedly weighs about 3600kg in total so with half the truck weight spread over two stands I shouldnt be close to their limit. They havent got much height on them though, so I have sat them on a little stack of 2 x 4 timber chunks with a bit of 3 x 2 on top carrying the truck chassis.

(edited)_P1090611.JPG

Theres a few other bits of timber under here, theyre just there cos I have nowhere else to stash em!

P1090612.JPG

Well anyway, I ummed and ahhed and tried to shove it off the stands, but it seemed fairly solid so I have been getting the brake drums off it tonight. But taking the leaf springs off is a different level of job, I dread to think how much the axle weighs. Would involve some serious grovelling about under there and I'm not sure I'm psyched up for that yet.

 

 

 

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If you stick the stands closer to the back it will place them under less load than where they are now, however I would NOT go under that without heavier rated stands for the following borish tale:

 I had this palava recently with a 3000kg transit camper and a 1.5t jack as I thought initially 1 wheel at a time would be fine (~1/4 weight per wheel), however as soon as it started lifting a wheel the diagonally opposite spring served to heap extra load on the jack which stopped it lifting any further, in the case of your truck if the ground isnt level it could load one up disproportionately.

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I'm wondering if rather like an engine crane, are axle stands rated at their max. weight in their shortest form? I know they're extended vertically but not horizontally, so it may not apply here. Those blocks look ok to me, so if you've given it the old shove/wobble test, I'm sure it'll be 'reet.

EDIT: the above former post might be better advice.

That said, other random bits of lumber about the place propping shiz up may offer up some sense of security, even if it's psychological. 

On another note, I think that the shape and speed of this big blue wonder is comparable to a turtle, so I hope there can be a poorly executed rendition of one daubed on it somewhere, when it's all up and running.

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Fuck that just buy or borrow some bigger axle stands it’s just not worth it the risk .

Those wooden blocks look like something you might see at the start of an episode of 90s casualty .

cuts to mister bollox stacking blocks of wood , He takes a slurp of his tea, tells his turtles he’s just nipping out to work on the truck then gets a horsebox in the groin.

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You have done some absolutely great work on this so far, but even with decent axle stands I wouldn't entertain changing the springs working on your back in a cramped driveway.  The axle will be heavy and the springs will be heavy,  and the shackle pins will probably be seized.  A bridge too far IMO.  

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