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Riding the roffle wave!!111!1!Sportys French fruitcake. Clio 172. £1150 or roffle at £20 a go. Free extra ticket to four random entrants once 55 sold.

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Keeper?

Probably, yes.

 

Upper gearbox rubber was replaced at the same time as the main top engine mount. I thought the dog bone was ok too so didn't change it. I didn't know there was another mount and can't quite place it from the picture.

 

Both Me and Neil were discussing this the other day as it is quite a bit (a lot) faster the the current shit 182 that arrived. 

Have you a friendly tester for the decat pipe?

I also didin't realise there was another mount, which is why I thought the dogbone was the fault. This mount is at the front of the box, and bolts to the subframe.

 

I'm considering having a dyno run, just out of curiosity, because there's a small optimistic part of me that think ot may have fast cams in it, hence the lumpy idle, and would really ,ove to see a good figure.

 

Hopefully, I can get it tested sans cat. If not, I'll probably see about getting a cheap used one for the test.

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I'm considering having a dyno run, just out of curiosity, because there's a small optimistic part of me that think ot may have fast cams in it, hence the lumpy idle, and would really ,ove to see a good figure.

 

That was my train of thought with it, especially compared to the 182 which can certainly pick itself up and go.

Yours left quite a few track cars behind on the straight at Knockhill, I was moving over to let them pass and they just kept getting further away in the mirror, it was a new experience for me!

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Small update. No pictures.

 

Bought polybushes for the dogbone. Fitted them leading to small improvement, but vibration still present.

 

Had it MOT'd.

 

Bought used front gearbox mount, as I was struggling to find a reasonable priced new one. Fitted this, and also shimmed it up a few mm, as I had read that this can prevent exhaust banging on subframe. Small improvement, but vibration still there.

 

Next: I've got a used (cheap) powerflex top mount insert on it's way. I'll probably have to get a new front gearbox mount, and also shim it a bit more. Also going to invest in polybushes for front arms, and investigate minor exhaust rattle from rear of car (suspect loose heatshield). Oh, and replace the few bits of missing trim, and the parcel shelf.

 

It hurts me to say that, at the moment, this car is irritating me, simply because I can't seem to get rid of this vibration. Going to keep trying, though.

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Small update of things recently done, and new "issues"

 

Fitted the powerflex upper engine insert, which has rid the car of the annoying vibration of exhaust against subframe. Since then, I've enjoyed running around in it, and haven't done much more than hoover it out and check the levels.

 

However, it has developed an annoying misfire and hesitation at low revs. I've plugged it into my cheap ebay bluetooth scanner and Torque on my phone, and initially, it flagged up knock sensor. I l cleaned the connections on this, and it was better, but not right. It has gone progressively worse, and pretty much copied the symptoms of how my Puma went before the coil pack failed. With this in mind, I invested in a new coil pack, which /i fitted today, and has made absolutely no difference. It's flashed the EML a couple of times since, and when plugged in, has given speed sensor and post cat O2 sensor. My brief reading on t'interweb suggests that the O2 sensor will flash a fault if the emissions were out of range, which suggests that it is caused by the misfire. Also cannot see how a speed sensor will make it run badly. On top of this, it's had a bit of a hissy fit today, where it flashed an airbag and ABS light, and stopped the rev counter working. These magically fixed themselves, but only after it had failed to start. It started after being plugged in and having the codes cleared.

 

Just test driven it after fitting coil pack, clearing codes and disconnecting battery, and it's still missing like a pig at low revs. ##

 

So.... Could it be knock sensor, as it seems worse at full throttle, rather than if you feather it up more gradually?

Or.....  Could it be something completely different, that I have no idea about?

 

 

Disclaimer: I'm not great with electronic stuff, so don't flame me!!!

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Is the knock sensor the one on the front of the engine roughly middle?

 

If it is I think I had issue with the wiring on is shorting as they had chaffed (or more likely been pulled off by the wire previously)

 

Might be worth trying to get another connector with some extra wire on and cutting the existing one back a bit.

 

Glad the poly bush insert helped rid it of vibration.

 

It had the correct plugs fitted by me earlier this year so if the coil pack hasn't made a difference maybe leads could be put on the list somewhere as a possible.

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Is the knock sensor the one on the front of the engine roughly middle?

 

If it is I think I had issue with the wiring on is shorting as they had chaffed (or more likely been pulled off by the wire previously)

 

Might be worth trying to get another connector with some extra wire on and cutting the existing one back a bit.

 

Glad the poly bush insert helped rid it of vibration.

 

It had the correct plugs fitted by me earlier this year so if the coil pack hasn't made a difference maybe leads could be put on the list somewhere as a possible.

Yes, that's the one. I'll try some fresh wiring.

 

Thanks for the tip

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If it's anything like mine (the logic is probably similar just newer) tapping the knock sensor at idle makes it freak out and heavily adjust the ignition making it run like poo

 

If you're getting intermittent noise from it, that'll happen, wires are a good idea. Or just unplug the sensor and shuffle the wire out of the way and see if it idles- it'll run knowing the knock sensor is missing but give a warning.

 

Either that or it's a bad ground somewhere. Check all the grounding points, I believe there's a secondary one for engine sensors, along with the primary ground strap.

 

Phil

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Finally got round to putting a set of leads on this today. Whilst I was about it, I cleaned all the sensor connections I could see, and cleaned out the throttle body. 

 

Quick test drive, and all seems to be ok. I'll probably put it back into daily use, and park the MGF up for a while. Only problem I have now is that I'm starting to get the itch for a change again. Common sense says stick with this, my sense is wondering what other liability I can pick up.

 

 

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Bit of monetary bad news, and the typical temptation of Pasta Shite has lead me to offer this up to the forum.

 

It's got MOT to June next year. Recent new alternator, polybushes dog bone and top mount. New coil pack and leads. It's flashing the EML for a post cat lambda sensor heater circuit. Runs well, drives well, silly fast but economical if you stay sensible. Bit of a clunk from N/S front if you hit a bump on full lock (I hear it when I reverse off the drive) All good tyres, stealth exhaust with decat (bit noisy, but fun) proper cold air induction, suspected remap and possibly some 182 bits (?manifolds) It's a bit scruffy in parts on the body, but it certainly no shed.

 

Would like around £1150. May be interested in cheap px to ease the deal, but it would have to be cheap!!!

 

Located Bolton. Can collect from stations etc.post-3906-0-92374100-1539636697_thumb.jpg

 

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post-3906-0-24268200-1539636819_thumb.jpg

 

post-3906-0-08995200-1539636829_thumb.jpg

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There are a number of shiters on here who were introduced to the delights of 172s via this car.

 

Every last one of the them loved it!

 

A grand wee motor and considerably less trouble than the Ph1 I replaced it with.

 

0-60 sub 7 secs, plenty of torque and 40+ mpg on a run.

 

This is winning!

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