Vince70 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 I thought I would change the thermostat on my e36 318ti which not being like a conventional car means you have to buy not just the stat but rather a sealed unit but I got a good make one off GSF for £29. So now while I was at it I thought it would be silly not to change the pump and the auxiliary belt at the same time and was looking for some advice really as general servicing is normally my limit and I have bought the fan spanner and seeing I have 3 cars with similar engines I thought I might just use it again at a later date. So I just wondered is there was anything to look for and do I use any gasket sealant as there’s no gaskets in the boxes and what’s the chances of snapping a bolt in the engine block on removal of the pump and stat. I can take my time doing the job and it’s in my old 60s leaky garage but I don’t have ramps so is it possible to do the job from the top also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omegod Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Fairly straightforward from what I recall, there's a blind hole you can screw a longer bolt into which forces the pump out of the block. I found it was a bitch to bleed though so I jacked the front end right up and left it overnight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BavarianRetro Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 No need for sealant. There's an O ring on the pump body. I've had one break when pushing it out with the mounting bolt. That was interesting to get out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Lots of WD40 in the mounting flange. These pumps slide into the front timing cover so are not a face to face fit. Use two of the 10mm pump bolts and thread them into the 'ears' on the side of the pump. Gradually and evenly screw them in, the bolt ends press against the engine and draw the pump out. In theory anyway. Smack the steel pump pulley (not the one the belt runs on...) a couple of times to loosen it, should be alright. Smear grease on the new pump body, easy. Have a feel of the plastic idler for the belt. If it feels rough or noisy, pick the seals out, finger some grease in and refit.Easy to bleed these up, just pour coolant down the expansion tank hole (having the top hose off helps), refit the hose and bleed screw, fire it up, 2500 rpm with the heater set to hot until the heater blows hot, job done. Vince70 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince70 Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Thanks for the advice Rev..I don’t have a torque wrench that goes low enough, I just wondered is it ok just to nip the bolts up for the thermostat and pump without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Top tip - cut the bottom off a 2L pop bottle and fit it with the neck into the radiator cap so bottle is upside down. This gives you the opportunity to get a good head of coolant to make it easier to bleed. Other than that, as already said, gently gently on the housing bolts.. Vince70 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binbag Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Thanks for the advice Rev..I don’t have a torque wrench that goes low enough, I just wondered is it ok just to nip the bolts up for the thermostat and pump without one. Just use a 1/4 inch ratchet and don't go retard tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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