volvo240girl Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Hello We Used To Have Same Model An 98 TurBO I WOULD Advise You To Do The Turbo Cooler Pipes Down By The Oil Filter Theres A T jUNCTiON THESE RUBBER HOSES GO BRITTLE WITH TIME AND ARE AVAILABLE FROM VOLVO AND CHEAP I Have Been Enjoying Your Thread Try Also Vp Parts in Sweden They Have A Website Or Call Them Direct They Should Be Able To Get You That Heater Control Valve Many A Time Volvo Uk Say No Part NoT aValable Even ThoUGH They Have Access To The Classic Parts In Sweden Yet vP pARTS Can Get The Part We Have Volvo 240s And Deal WiTh ThESE GUYS FOR OBSCURE PARTS Anyway EnJoy The 940 And Thanks For Sharing The Delights Of Ownership............. Louise Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 I've been putting this off for ages. On it's last MOT the little C1 got an advisory for subframe corrosion, I've got a week off work so today was an ideal time to grasp the nettle. Bumper off to reveal some minor grot... And up on the ramps to reveal a subframe no worse than most other 12 year old cars I'd imagine, also some other bits of surface stuff on the floorpan... After some stabbing it was all found to be solid, so time for a good wire brush and then to convert any emerging corrosion with Hydrate80... Whilst waiting for the Hydrate80 to react I fitted some Osram Nightbreaker bulbs on the basis of complaints being received about poor lighting... And after pottering on with other stuff for a few hours and allowing the rust converter to go off, I then spent several hours of unpleasantness spreading a couple of coats of Dynax UB about with a brush resulting in... It's quite satisfying knowing it's done and done properly, none the less I'm getting too old for this shit. Unfortunately I have more corrosion-centic automotive nettles to grasp as the week progresses too. Tickman, GrumpiusMaximus, Broadsword and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Looking at the work you have done there is very pleasing. Even though there is a bit of light grot, I would dare say these little cars are relatively rust resistant. I doubt very many would have just got treated to a nice rust killing and underselaing. You have probably greatly increased the lifetime of the vehicle! How is the engine doing for oil consumption? Sudsprint and Shirley Knott 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 Thanks chap, the rust wasn't that bad but if left for another year or two would have caused issues so it needed doing really. I used to be able to cadge the use of a pit and a compressor to underseal but unfortunately the chap who's garage I used has now retired and the workshop's been demolished to build houses. This will probably be the last car I try it on, it's a grim job with a pit to work in but on ramps and a drive it's deeply unpleasant as mentioned. Oil consumption isn't great but probably normal for one of this these with 100k, it seems to use just over half a litre per 1000 miles at present. The Moog, Bamboocarman, Broadsword and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 10 minutes ago, JoeyEunos said: Thanks chap, the rust wasn't that bad but if left for another year or two would have caused issues so it needed doing really. I used to be able to cadge the use of a pit and a compressor to underseal but unfortunately the chap who's garage I used has now retired and the workshop's been demolished to build houses. This will probably be the last car I try it on, it's a grim job with a pit to work in but on ramps and a drive it's deeply unpleasant as mentioned. Oil consumption isn't great but probably normal for one of this these with 100k, it seems to use just over half a litre per 1000 miles at present. Sounds about right judging from the C1 and 107 I have had previously. I think as long as you keep topping it up as opposed to letting the level drop right down, it should be ok. The sump is annoyingly small on them and the level can drop very rapidly on the dipstick between checking! I test drove a Daihatsu with the same engine last year which had clearly been let run low on oil. The clatter the engine made was biblical, even louder than the Lupo of magnificene! Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Fancy that, someone else doing corrosion protection today! Car looks fantastic now. Just a small question, your Dynax UB can be applied with a brush. My 1 litre pail of the stuff requires a filling knife to apply. Is there a difference between the 5 litre cans and the 1 litre pots of the stuff? Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 I've never heard of using a filling knife to apply it, that's news to me but I'm no expert. As far as I'm aware the 5l pails are intended for compressor application but can be brushed on, where-as the 1l pails are intended to be painted on with a brush or roller unless I've misunderstood. Jim Bell and Fumbler 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 I have an irrational want for a C1. I partially blame you. Top brown prevention man. Looks ready for winter round the undercroft. loserone and Shirley Knott 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 6 minutes ago, JoeyEunos said: I've never heard of using a filling knife to apply it, that's news to me but I'm no expert. As far as I'm aware the 5l pails are intended for compressor application but can be brushed on, where-as the 1l pails are intended to be pained on with a brush or roller unless I've misunderstood. That's what I thought too. It might just be a case of putting the can into some warm water for an hour before use. Apart from that, my general experiences of the Dynax line are good. The description sheets that come with every product are just copy-pasted with the product names changed. That being said, for the big 5l pail I got, it said I could use a brush, roller or spray to apply. Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 8 minutes ago, Jim Bell said: I have an irrational want for a C1. I partially blame you. Top brown prevention man. Looks ready for winter round the undercroft. Your desire is irrational for sure, they're just like a Lupo, an inferior poorly manufactured Lupo that's worse in just about every measurable way. Women are a fickle bunch and she wanted something modern, the solution was a 12 year old Citroen which probably is modern by my standards. She seems pleased and that's what matters. Thanks for the kind words none the less. 4 minutes ago, Fumbler said: That's what I thought too. It might just be a case of putting the can into some warm water for an hour before use. Apart from that, my general experiences of the Dynax line are good. The description sheets that come with every product are just copy-pasted with the product names changed. That being said, for the big 5l pail I got, it said I could use a brush, roller or spray to apply. Yep, I sit the container in a bowl of freshly boiled water or alternatively leave it on the shed roof for an hour if it's hot. The secret is to lob it on really thick, it properly soaks in to everything if you get it runny enough. Fumbler 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Will have to try that sometime! In the meantime I'll stick with the Dynax S-50 and see if it washes off in the wheelarches at all. I'm fairly certain it won't but you never know. Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 I would imagine it will before too long TBH chap, better than nothing though. As mentioned I'm no expert, but S50 is meant for the inside of sills and box sections rather than inner arches etc. It's great stuff but it's a cavity wax in it's nature, UB is and underseal and is intended for high traffic areas like wheelarches/underbody stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 It says different things everywhere though. I'm confident all will be fine in the end as my data sheet says it's a general underbody and cavity wax, plus the report the site gives has this photo: And that's after 2082 hours of hot salt spray. The wax is also self-healing in the event of disturbance, according to the product description, such as when a stone hits the panel or a twig scrapes across it etc. it will close up again. It says it is optimised for cavity protection, however it also gives good allowance for other places. The highly polar corrosion inhibitors are also a massive factor in S-50 which is what also drew me towards it. It's also worth remembering that other cavity waxes like Fluid Film and Krown are widely used for general underbody protection and it's recommended that the protected areas are inspected every year to make sure the stuff is re-applied to where it has been washed off. Anyhow, time will tell, of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 I'm sure it'll will last a decent amount of time, I'd still maybe consider touching it up with UB once it expires though. Also, gotta love the highly polar corrosion inhibitors, that's what we're all after. HMC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Indeed, that's what we're after! Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 Stage 2 of the ropey Citroen's rust treatment commenced today. Having dealt with underneath on Monday, this left the topside of the car which was showing some areas for concern, mostly here... But also here.... Angry grindy tools out... And then worked back as much as was feasible... At this stage I'd run out of Hydrate 80 so switched to Kurust mainly on the basis of having some laying about.... Stuff got painted in it... And it wasn't long before the magic reaction was taking place, residual rust was converted and the blue turned to black... After being given a few hours to finish going off out came the zinc laden red oxide rust primer.... All areas of focus received a generous coating and are now ready for a final topcoat in the correct colour tomorrow... Meanwhile a long standing fleet member has been prepared for sale and today flew the nest to go and live with its new owner... Sad times and I'll no doubt miss the 940, but I'd actually spoiled it by making it too nice thus defeating the object in having it. This opens up the possibility of a new fleet member though and I'm trying to focus on that, the world is now my oyster (Probably more like a slightly off clam in reality) LightBulbFun, Sudsprint, Dan302 and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 Good work on de-brownifying the top and the bottom. I quite fancy that zinc red oxide stuff- might come in useful! Oh, and sorry about the underseal thing- you were right and thanks to you, I was able to make use of the Dynax UB after leaving it in hot water for a couple hours with some stirring. Worked a treat! Shirley Knott and LightBulbFun 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 Nice job on the rust. i can’t believe you’ve sold the ovloV though! Wtf dude!? Shirley Knott, Fumbler and scdan4 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 I know, I know. To be honest it was just a bit too nice for my intended purpose for it. I realised I'd reached a turning point when I noticed I was twitchy about leaving it in car parks for fear of it getting dinged and had recently started to consider the prospect of taking it off the road for winter. That's when I knew it was game over for it really. There's no way it will be my last Volvo, I just need a £500 one with a dented rear wing and a bit of a limp to use for tip runs and not be so precious about. danthecapriman, Broadsword and Jim Bell 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 32 minutes ago, JoeyEunos said: I know, I know. To be honest it was just a bit too nice for my intended purpose for it. I realised I'd reached a turning point when I noticed I was twitchy about leaving it in car parks for fear of it getting dinged and had recently started to consider the prospect of taking it off the road for winter. That's when I knew it was game over for it really. There's no way it will be my last Volvo, I just need a £500 one with a dented rear wing and a bit of a limp to use for tip runs and not be so precious about. I can totally sympathise with that! It is a really nice car and a shame to use it in a way. Anything taking your fancy yet as a replacement? Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 I dunno really, something estate shaped and reasonably priced probably, although I'm a straw to every wind that blows at times so anything could happen. I'm currently lusting after @bramz7 Audi of much derv but it's inconveniently located from a geographical perspective. danthecapriman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMC Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 12 hours ago, JoeyEunos said: I know, I know. To be honest it was just a bit too nice for my intended purpose for it........... There's no way it will be my last Volvo, I just need a £500 one with a dented rear wing and a bit of a limp to use for tip runs and not be so precious about. Mines not for sale but it is summed up well by you there Shirley Knott and Sudsprint 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 That looks perfect, aside from the not for sale status. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Right, this job is now finally jobbed Paint went on yesterday, colour match wasn't bad... I couldn't justify Dynax S50 for such a cheap car so I've bought this stuff as an experiment. It's basically chain lube as far as I can tell, it never sets and should do a decent job of keeping rust at bay, at less than £2 a tin the price is right. ... The C1 sports a load of plastic bungs along the length of the sill, once these are removed access is to the inner sections is easy.... At this stage the sills were packed full of the anti rust grease until it was literally oozing out of every orifice.... With that done the final task was to use the remaining dregs of Dynax UB to treat the inner arch areas and backs of the sills... All in the entire process once said and done has cost me about £8 in total, apart from the tins of anti rust grease I had all of the other bits lying round, the emotional and physical price for this has been high though! Not a great way to spend your week off really, this will probably be the last rust proofing/treatment I get myself involved with as it really is a hateful task. Fumbler, Broadsword, theshadow and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fumbler Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Chain oil- mustie1 approved! Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 That must now be the best rust-proofed old C1 out there, nice. Sad to see the Volvo go (hope it lives on for a while) but there is plenty more shite out there to sample. At this point I must of course suggest you get a Jaaaag. Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 4 minutes ago, Broadsword said: At this point I must of course suggest you get a Jaaaag. They're very much on the must try list, mostly thanks to your thread/exploits, but at present I'm finding NA V70 P2's to hold the most appeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 6 minutes ago, Shirley Knott said: They're very much on the must try list, mostly thanks to your thread/exploits, but at present I'm finding NA V70 P2's to hold the most appeal. V70 P2s are a really good shout. We have had many and they are easy enough to buy. Since they are a bit old now and they wear suspension components and wheel bearings quite heavily I would hold out till a wellish maintained one turns up. Shirley Knott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shirley Knott Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 On 8/24/2019 at 11:30 AM, Broadsword said: V70 P2s are a really good shout. We have had many and they are easy enough to buy. Since they are a bit old now and they wear suspension components and wheel bearings quite heavily I would hold out till a wellish maintained one turns up. Aye, there seem to be plenty of them about so lots to choose from. We passed three on our way to Beamish last week and that's only two miles away from home so certainly no need to travel far to find one. Either way I've pretty much got my heart set on one now and have saved searches on most selling platforms. It may be time to perhaps give some thought to moving my thread over to the modern section soon with the loss of the 940 and introduction of more modern(ish) stuff? Anyhow, after being impressed with the Osram NightBreakerr bulbs recently fitted the Citroen I decided the Golf deserved a set too, at just over a tenner for a pair in H7 flavour it seemed daft not to as even if they don't last as long the light output is much improved. Ready to go... There's lots of talk about removing the bumper to install headlights on Mk4's but I never find it that difficult doing them in situ. Bags of room on the drivers side.... Passenger side is a bit more fiddly with the battery getting in the way somewhat, but after removing some of the plastic covers it's still relatively easy... Meanwhile, even four days after rust proofing the little C1 it's still marking it's spot as cavity wax continues to ooze from every orifice.... This is good I suppose as it shows that the products used are so runny with the heat this weekend that they'll be working their way into every seam, nook and cranny. Bad news because it's making a mess of my drive! danthecapriman, theshadow, GrumpiusMaximus and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 My drives much the same at the moment! Capri has dribbled Dynax puddles in various places. There’s actually a faint outline of a Capri footprint! Luckily the Volvo parks over the same spot usually so you can’t see it. Just aswell too as I can’t seem to wash it off. Have you considered a Volvo 850? Similar but a bit older than the V70’s. Nice cars, and a million times faster than the old rear drive models! I had an M reg 850 2.5GLE estate in metallic red with a beige interior, lovely car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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