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Shirley Knott

Shirley Knott's Evil Web Of Shite- £350 Volvo- Bissell Business And Wheel Bearing Woes.

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Chipping away a bit more at the Volvo this morning, carpet shampooing was the order of the day. I'm avoiding the full scale seats out cleaning stupidity that I subjected myself to with the 940 and as such limited it to the mats. Bissell out and ready for action...

 

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Impressive results. The cleaning solution looked like Guinness by the time I'd finished, 5 full containers of this stuff was produced...

 

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There's something strangely satisfying about cleaning really dirty carpets (I need to get out more)

Meanwhile there are bigger problems to focus on, I'm pretty certain the front passenger  side wheel bearing is on the way out. All of the signs are there, low speed grinding/whirring that ceases upon turning right and doesn't go away in neutral coasting or when breaking, yet to strip it down and look but I think as it comes complete with the hub this might be a job that gets farmed out to someone 'professional' to do on the basis my torque wrench is buggered and by the time I've bought a replacement I might as well have used the cash to pay someone else to do the work.

 

 

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V70/S80/S60s are notorious for getting through wheel bearings like nobody's business. I've done them a few times and it's not too difficult (I even did a YouTube video on it). I'm pretty sure I have a generic brand front wheel bearing for one of these still around untouched in the box. You can have it for say half whatever the cheapest new one on eBay is if that helps in a bid to keep costs down. :) It was going to go on the last D5 I had, but that car was going to have a very bad time at the MOT station so ended up being sold.

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9 hours ago, Broadsword said:

V70/S80/S60s are notorious for getting through wheel bearings like nobody's business. I've done them a few times and it's not too difficult (I even did a YouTube video on it). I'm pretty sure I have a generic brand front wheel bearing for one of these still around untouched in the box. You can have it for say half whatever the cheapest new one on eBay is if that helps in a bid to keep costs down. :) It was going to go on the last D5 I had, but that car was going to have a very bad time at the MOT station so ended up being sold.

That's really kind but  I've already got one en route (Doh). £43 for a 'Nordic' branded part doesn't seem too bad.

Did you torque the hub to knuckle bolts or just settle for them being FT? Also, are any of the bolts one time use jobbies, is locktite required for them?

 

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No problem. The one I have is from that price range anyways. Some say you should replace all the bolts you encounter but the one that most say replace is the bolt for the drive shaft. I did the strut bolts FT, but torque values will be out there somewhere of course. I got quite a lot of feedback on the video I did so you might find some more info there, see below.

 

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21 minutes ago, Broadsword said:

No problem. The one I have is from that price range anyways. Some say you should replace all the bolts you encounter but the one that most say replace is the bolt for the drive shaft. I did the strut bolts FT, but torque values will be out there somewhere of course. I got quite a lot of feedback on the video I did so you might find some more info there, see below.

 

Sweet, and cheers for the video link.

So did you use a torque wrench at all on any of the bolts? (As mentioned mine's f*cked)

Also, to threadlock or not to threadlock?

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Yes I torqued everything except the two bolts on the strut which were just FT, threadlock was applied to the drive shaft bolt. I can’t recall any of the torque values at the moment, but the drive shaft bolt is like 15 Nm only hence the need for threadlock. They have a habit of shaking loose.

Be extra careful with the ABS sensor. You can in fact get away without removing it, there should be enough slack in the cable. The bolt holding it in snaps very easily.

EDIT: Oh and don’t be surprised if the wheel bearing on the other side follows suit shortly after replacing the other. Happened to me a couple of times.

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Work resumed on this last night with a *simple plug change. Upon starting the job it became clear that the plugs were in there as tight as a nuns chuff and despite lots of plusgas each and every one of the 5 of them screeched like a banshee coming out, lots of working backwards and forwards a mllimetre at a time helped to avoid tragedy. Unfortunately despite starting at 6pm by the time the job was done things had descended into darkness...

 

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After careful examination it was clear that the plugs removed were Volvo originals,I'd imagine there's a fairly good chance they've been in there since 2001 hence the drama getting them out...

 

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Fresh NGK were fitted and then this morning I tuned failure into glory by replacing the old and disintegrating coil lead sleaving with some new stuff I had lying around in the shed...

 

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Followed up with re-fitting the covers after a smear of Autoglym bumpercare and it's like nothing ever happened....

 

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Next step, wheel bearing...

 

 

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No problem. The one I have is from that price range anyways. Some say you should replace all the bolts you encounter but the one that most say replace is the bolt for the drive shaft. I did the strut bolts FT, but torque values will be out there somewhere of course. I got quite a lot of feedback on the video I did so you might find some more info there, see below.
 
Does disturbing the strut bolts affect the camber?

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Not as far as I could tell. I haven’t been told to the contrary either. They aren’t concentric bolts holding it on, but one could be extra careful and mark everything up. Also check the knuckle itself for aluminium corrosion. On my last V70 parts of it were like Swiss cheese due to severe galvanic corrosion. It looked frightening and I replaced it days later with a spare from the scrap yard. Death by Scotland for that car I’m afraid.

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I opted to whack the ball joint/lower arm off on my S70 because I'd read that disturbing the strut bolts can affect the camber. It's a similar but not the same setup.

If you DIY the wheel bearing use or get a heatgun, it's all too easy to destroy the heads of the E14(?) bolts if they're old and stuck in there.

 

 

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