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307SW FIN :(


rainagain

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The DMF had completely broken up inside, however yet again the car decided to be a dick and one of the mounting bolts managed to get stuck inside the remains of the DMF as I removed it. 

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You can see bits of the DMF through the bolt holes. Luckily whilst I was trying to cut a hole in the rear of the DMF to retrieve the bolt it worked its way round so I could extract it.

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Now knowing that the crank, gearbox are ok I ordered some parts:

LUK release bearing £13.41

Gearbox oil seal set £12.39

I'm not sure what to do about the N/S driver shaft inner CV joint, it's definitely got sticky bits in it's movement which I think has been causing the side to side vibration when I've been accelerating. I'm thinking of just getting a new one from Amazon for £28 but I'm worried about how I'm going to remove the driveshaft nut as the hub is not attached to the car. I can see a tie wrap on the inner joint so it looks like someone has been in it in the past, I wonder if I repack it with grease it would help or is it a lost cause?

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I’d replace the driveshaft if I were you. I recently changed one on a Partner Combi 2.0hdi which completely rid it of the vibes and shaking in low gears. This one really was sticky, making axle articulation difficult on the Offside out of and into bends.

 Can you get the hub into a big bench vice? That would help a lot with hub nut removal.

 

On another matter I’ve got the same job to do on my 307SW that has been sitting around waiting for it’s solid flywheel conversion.

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13 minutes ago, Richard said:

I've got a 400Nm Makita gun that should be able to shift the driveshaft nut. I'm away for the next couple of days but should be able to make it available if you want to pick it up after work one day. 

Thanks for the offer, the £28 one on amazon has disappeared. I’ll need to get back in touch with Reb to see about the ones he kindly offered me. 

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Holy shit as an owner of the same car I hope I never have to do one of these. The last clutch I did on the drive was a Vito and it was agricultural - dead easy.

There’s a lot more electrics in these and it’s worrying. I only just found that the inner CVs aren’t usual boots so if you’re removing one don’t damage it. They are shaped in the inside to sit over the odd shaped joints.

Mines sat at the moment without a front o/s hub in it as I wait for a boot to arrive. MOT retest is booked for tomorrow so fingers crossed it turns up soon.

Secondly, how easy was the arms to get out of the subframe on the front? I have a new arm but am resisting fitting it due to it looking like an awful job.


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I did my arms on the previous page to this one. I found getting them out ok (apart from splitting the lower ball joint), nothing like the hassle of changing them on a 206 I used to own. The n/s is a bit tricky as the driveshaft obscures the bolt head.  I used a pair of mole grips to hold the head and this let me undo it. I did the same thing again for tightening it it up. 

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Next up was reattaching the n/s gearbox mount, this wasn't too bad I just jacked up the gearbox and wiggled it into position. The stud then had some loctite put on the threads before it was screwed in. The mount was then installed over the stud and the nuts torqued up.

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I had shit tons of hassle with this stupid bracket again, in hind sight what I should have done was fit it before the gearbox mount as it would have let me pull the engine forward. Instead I struggled, as I rotated the engine to allow the bracket to slip on the studs pressed towards the subframe stopping it going on. I ended up grinding the end of one the studs and filling the other to get some clearance.  

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You can see how it sits in a little recess of the subframe once installed.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I bolted the starter motor and then tried to fit the plate that holds the vacuum solenoids, I initially thought this went under the one of the slave cylinder bolts and one of the starter motor bolts. After much faffing around I managed to get my phone up and took this picture showing it actually goes under two of the starter motor bolts. The pic shows how I thought it was supposed to go. I then loosened the starter motor bolts before slipping in.

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Then it was the joy of hooking up eight vacuum hoses and the four electrical connectors to all the solenoids as well as the vacuum reservoir. 

Later that night I was coloring in with one of my kids and drew this picture to express my feelings about this car

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I had a problem with the car wobbling when you accelerated, which I suspect was caused by a worn inner CV joint. The O/S felt ok but the N/S felt a little tight in places so £12.50 later I had a second hand one from ebay. The only problem I had was how to remove the mega tight driveshaft nut when the hub wasn't on the car. Luckily I borrowed this 3/4" bad boy from someone at work. 

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I stuck the driveshaft in the vice

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I braced myself, half expecting to end up spinning round cartoon style whilst the nut stayed still, but instead it zipped it off like it wasn't there.

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Naturally to get to the top of the struts you have to remove the wipers and windscreen lower cowl

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I had to remember to be careful about the lower part of the windscreen, some poor guy on the Peugeot forum lend on this and as the windscreen is unsupported there it just cracked.

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I then went to replace the worn trackrod end I'd noticed had a wee bit of play when taking everything apart. This one was listed on amazing as being for the right hand side but the amazon fitment guide said it would fit the left hand side of my car. I contacted the seller to ask about the conflicting information and told him it was for the right hand side/driver's side/off side just to be clear and he confirmed it would fit. Well guess what he sent me:

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That's right! One for the left hand side.

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I just changed the front spring on mine and was sprised at how massive they were. No way they were going on with household spring compressors - took them to the garage and he fitted it to the strut for a tenner. Even he commented on how much it needed compressing to get it on

 

Ive got inner track rods to do this weekend if its not raining to chase the rattle.

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I managed to get hold of the correct trackrod end from Eurocarparts, (I did visit the store to make sure!). Once this was fitted I stuck the wheels back on and bleed the clutch. I'm happy to say it drove ok. The next job was to change the rear springs, I couldn't manage this in the garage as space is tight against the wall and I needed access to both sides. Naturally it was pissing it down with rain but as I wanted to finally get the car finished I pressed on. The piece of cardboard I'd gotten to cleverly lie on lasted at least five minutes before it turned to mush. I got the car jacked up and both the strut bolts came out. Once I'd lowered the axle with a jack the springs popped ok. Strangely the lowering springs actually felt softer than the ones I removed and the coils were slightly thinner gauge. 

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Nice new springs installed

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It was whilst I was jacking the car up I heard not very nice noises from the sills, sure enough a light pressing resulted in more crunching noises, then I grabbed a screw driver and this happened.

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Annoyingly in the past some moron had glassed both the sills including their drain holes so they've been badly affected by tin worm due to an extended period of being filled with water. 

Further poking revealed a large section where the bottom has rotted out on one side and the rear of the other side.

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I think a whole lot of people would have cubed this car by now....

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