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307SW changing the clutch

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The DMF had completely broken up inside, however yet again the car decided to be a dick and one of the mounting bolts managed to get stuck inside the remains of the DMF as I removed it. 


You can see bits of the DMF through the bolt holes. Luckily whilst I was trying to cut a hole in the rear of the DMF to retrieve the bolt it worked its way round so I could extract it.

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Now knowing that the crank, gearbox are ok I ordered some parts:

LUK release bearing £13.41

Gearbox oil seal set £12.39

I'm not sure what to do about the N/S driver shaft inner CV joint, it's definitely got sticky bits in it's movement which I think has been causing the side to side vibration when I've been accelerating. I'm thinking of just getting a new one from Amazon for £28 but I'm worried about how I'm going to remove the driveshaft nut as the hub is not attached to the car. I can see a tie wrap on the inner joint so it looks like someone has been in it in the past, I wonder if I repack it with grease it would help or is it a lost cause?

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I’d replace the driveshaft if I were you. I recently changed one on a Partner Combi 2.0hdi which completely rid it of the vibes and shaking in low gears. This one really was sticky, making axle articulation difficult on the Offside out of and into bends.

 Can you get the hub into a big bench vice? That would help a lot with hub nut removal.


On another matter I’ve got the same job to do on my 307SW that has been sitting around waiting for it’s solid flywheel conversion.

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13 minutes ago, Richard said:

I've got a 400Nm Makita gun that should be able to shift the driveshaft nut. I'm away for the next couple of days but should be able to make it available if you want to pick it up after work one day. 

Thanks for the offer, the £28 one on amazon has disappeared. I’ll need to get back in touch with Reb to see about the ones he kindly offered me. 

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Only got an hour on this at the weekend. I fitted the smf with the new bolts. Strange torque settings 25Nm then slacken then 20Nm then 22 degrees. I set the clutch up with my home made alignment tool 




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Holy shit as an owner of the same car I hope I never have to do one of these. The last clutch I did on the drive was a Vito and it was agricultural - dead easy.

There’s a lot more electrics in these and it’s worrying. I only just found that the inner CVs aren’t usual boots so if you’re removing one don’t damage it. They are shaped in the inside to sit over the odd shaped joints.

Mines sat at the moment without a front o/s hub in it as I wait for a boot to arrive. MOT retest is booked for tomorrow so fingers crossed it turns up soon.

Secondly, how easy was the arms to get out of the subframe on the front? I have a new arm but am resisting fitting it due to it looking like an awful job.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I did my arms on the previous page to this one. I found getting them out ok (apart from splitting the lower ball joint), nothing like the hassle of changing them on a 206 I used to own. The n/s is a bit tricky as the driveshaft obscures the bolt head.  I used a pair of mole grips to hold the head and this let me undo it. I did the same thing again for tightening it it up. 

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Next up was reattaching the n/s gearbox mount, this wasn't too bad I just jacked up the gearbox and wiggled it into position. The stud then had some loctite put on the threads before it was screwed in. The mount was then installed over the stud and the nuts torqued up.


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I had shit tons of hassle with this stupid bracket again, in hind sight what I should have done was fit it before the gearbox mount as it would have let me pull the engine forward. Instead I struggled, as I rotated the engine to allow the bracket to slip on the studs pressed towards the subframe stopping it going on. I ended up grinding the end of one the studs and filling the other to get some clearance.  


You can see how it sits in a little recess of the subframe once installed.



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