Rustproofing advise

[Bren]

Waxoyl - good for assisting fire to spread quickly when you are welding box sections.

[lisbon_road]

I use waxoyl, just paint it on the underneath everywhere.  I haven't used the other products mentioned but might once I have run out as they've clearly got some supporters here.

 

I am interested in the sacrificial anode idea.  What should they be made of and where do we put them?  On my Astra, the rear silencer is held on with a clamp that goes all the way around and is zinc plated.  These loose the zinc plating and rust in no time at all but I did wonder if the zinc is acting as a sacrificial anode ie doing a very good job.  They cost about £2 each so I don't mind.  

[sierraman]

My personal experience of Waxoyl is good, applied right it should prevent rust, again the price comes into it. Waxoyl was about £25 for 5 litres, God knows what BH was, at the banger level there's no point spending £300 rustproofing a 15 year old car when you could easily have something like a gearbox go that would render the car scrap anyway. I used to have the mentality of trying to make bangers last forever, nothing wrong with preventative maintenance, when you start embarking on 'restoration' you usually end up wasting a lot of time and money. Obviously it's a different situation of we're talking a 1985 Talbot Horizon...

[mat_the_cat]

I am interested in the sacrificial anode idea.  What should they be made of and where do we put them?  On my Astra, the rear silencer is held on with a clamp that goes all the way around and is zinc plated.  These loose the zinc plating and rust in no time at all but I did wonder if the zinc is acting as a sacrificial anode ie doing a very good job.  They cost about £2 each so I don't mind.  

 

If you Google galvanic corrosion then that will explain things more - the downside to a car is that unless it is immersed in an electrolyte, the sacrificial anodes will only protect a very localised area. Works well on steel-hulled boats though...

 

The zinc plating on the clamp will corrode in preference to the steel around it, but as plating is very thin, will be gone in no time. A proper (hot dip) galvanised clamp would have a much thicker later of zinc and hence last longer before the zinc has all been preferentially corroded.

 

I'm doing some trials on cold galvanising (Zinga) at the moment, painted straight onto rust to be a tougher test. So far after 6 months no rust has appeared, so it's clearly much better than simply paint, especially as it has no rust killing/neutralising properties whatsoever.

[xtriple]

Used to bolt them on boat engine 'legs' as a matter of course. Sacrificial anodes work well but they do need to be in water to really work.

[gordonbennet]

My personal experience of Waxoyl is good, applied right it should prevent rust, again the price comes into it. Waxoyl was about £25 for 5 litres, God knows what BH was, at the banger level there's no point spending £300 rustproofing a 15 year old car when you could easily have something like a gearbox go that would render the car scrap anyway. I used to have the mentality of trying to make bangers last forever, nothing wrong with preventative maintenance, when you start embarking on 'restoration' you usually end up wasting a lot of time and money. Obviously it's a different situation of we're talking a 1985 Talbot Horizon...

 

Thats a very fair comment, and for shite that has an obvious shortish life expectancy there is little to be gained, probably spraying the undersides with old engine oil would be as good as anything.

 

My own shite preference is for 90's designs, even if built in early noughties, IMHO these designs are the last real shite we'll ever have and i want ours to last as long as possible hence the expense of serious rustproofing...shiters are going to have a real problem in 5 to 10 years time i believe, WTF exactly are we going to be able to find to run round in when the 80/90's cars are scrap and the newer rubbish are riddled with electrical/computer faults which can't be reasonably fixed.

 

I'm not buying the latest piss ant euro 9 buzz box, ever, i'd rather bloody walk.

[Honey Badger]

My personal experience of Waxoyl is good, applied right it should prevent rust, again the price comes into it. Waxoyl was about £25 for 5 litres, God knows what BH was, at the banger level there's no point spending £300 rustproofing a 15 year old car when you could easily have something like a gearbox go that would render the car scrap anyway. I used to have the mentality of trying to make bangers last forever, nothing wrong with preventative maintenance, when you start embarking on 'restoration' you usually end up wasting a lot of time and money. Obviously it's a different situation of we're talking a 1985 Talbot Horizon...

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-ub

 

Almost double the price1 for an equivalent size tub, but it lasts at least twice as long as waxoyl in our salt tests at work and is easier to use as well especially in aerosol for.

[mercrocker]

Hadn't come across the brush-on UB... definitely going to give that a go on the underside, although its pretty sound already paint-wise.

Totally agree with Gordonbennet.   Preservation is the only thing that is going to stop me having to walk (I'm not driving any piss-ant slopey fronted ecu ridden shitbox either.....)

[rainagain]

I've been given a very small sample of this:

 

http://www.spicoatings.com/products_solutions/rust_grip

 

(holes in rusty sill? no problem )

 

From website: Strong and Lasting – 20+ year lifespan on substrates under normal conditions; strengthens surfaces to 6780 psi or 478 bar

 

So far I've found it to be amazing, it's strange it goes on like water but it really sticks to the metal, it sets by absorbing moisture from the air so applying in a damp garage is no problem, surface prep is minimal it actually says not to remove the rust completely as it bonds to it. Probably due to the way it works it's an absolute bugger to get off you hands, I've never seen paint like it, in my book this is a good sign as anything that sticks so well to you skin is going stick better to metal.

 

The only problem is being an industrial product you can only buy it for ~£120 per US gallon plus delivery. However this isn't too expensive if you think about it, as B&Q Fortress Black Satin Metal Paint 250ml works out at ~£111 per US gallon.

[SamR380]

BH are based in Essex, one can only assume the products are mainly Brit sourced, unless its a foreign owned UK sales/factory like nearly everything else made here.

 

Just had a look and it says 'Made in England' on the label. Gets my vote.

[oldcars]

Did the chap in that video just apply bog roll to tippex as a fix??

[25v6turbo]

So the new Safrane I have bought needs a coating of rustproofing underneath,i will of course remove any loose rust etc and make sure its all dry(not using it at the moment so not getting wet underneath)what I want to do is pour a certain rustproof into something like a pump up spray bottle you use in the garden and spray it all underneath so it runs into all the hard to get to areas,i have waxoyl black sprays etc and other 2nd/3rd coat products,but I want the initial rustproof,whats best to buy and simply pour into my sprayer that will kill the rust before more coats are applied.

[MikeR]

I tend to jack up the car every 4 to 6 months for a check over , brakes , suspension , etc , and while its up in the air I go over with wire brush , brush out the farmers field , , spray oil around and into box sections  and pound land black spray to finish off  . brush on waxoiyl underseal for the battered   bits ...

 

..

[richardthestag]

shit the bed that was an odd way to dray a 2 year old thread back up to the top

 

heard good things about vatcan for land rover chassis

 

BH for inside box sections

 

enjoying using rust.co.uk products on the range rover project but that is down to its bare bones