Rustproofing advise

[mercrocker]

What do you use for rustproofing?

 

I have had limited success with Waxoyl so a couple of years back I ditched it in favour of the Bilt-Hamber stuff.   Its fine but bloody expensive in aerosol form.  I am OK with the panel stuff as the aerosol cans do work well but when it comes to doing inside the sills and chassis legs its a bit hit and miss.

 

Had some work done on the floor of the Minor and it was obvious that my previous sill-injection sessions could, in the words of my school reports, do better.   Looking at the fine preservation of the Cowley it seems the previous owner just poured oil in through nicely finished cut-outs he had made at strategic points.  I am thinking that if I heated up some bulk-bought Dynax and found a good way of pumping it in it would do a lot better than the spray cans.

 

Any ideas?   

 

 

[Magnificent Rustbucket]

There is a fellow on XJ40.com who rustproofed his Rover SD1 with Dinitrol when he bought it new in 1985. He still has it and says it is pretty much rust free, despite having lived outside. He also has a Daimler XJ40 which he has Dinitrolled too - and has no rust on it. I don't know how he applied it, but he did do it himself.

[Junkman]

My current 405 is the only one of the lot that has been undercoated. It's also the only one of the lot that required welding.

 

Verdict: Cars rust (if they aren't non-undercoated Peugeot 405s), rustproofed cars rust better.

 

Consequence: Rust forms the old fashioned way, so you deal with it the old fashioned way.

[danthecapriman]

I've always had good results from Dynax. In the cavitys and box sections I leave the car in the sun to warm it up, then warm the cans up in warm water. Then use the injection lances and let rip. The heat lets the wax flow and soak into seams etc more easily. I do use shit loads of it too, possibly too much really, it's expensive but if you pump loads of in you shouldn't have a problem. I collect up any that drips out and then brush it onto the floors etc.

Could you not buy a cheap electric spray gun and use that to spray it in?

[Bobthebeard]

The rubbery undercoating does more harm than good after a year or two IMHO. I have had good results (so far) by scraping the rubbery stuff off and using black Waxoyl (50% Waxoyl, 25% white spirit and 25% engine oil) then sprayed on with a decent electric spray gun, using extension probes into box sections etc.

[derskine]

My current 405 is the only one of the lot that has been undercoated. It's also the only one of the lot that required welding.

 

Verdict: Cars rust (if they aren't non-undercoated Peugeot 405s), rustproofed cars rust better.

 

Consequence: Rust forms the old fashioned way, so you deal with it the old fashioned way.

 

Pretty much my approach to it.

I don't bother with waxoyl usually because when it rusts again it'll be a pain in the arse to clean up prior to welding.

Nice coat of red oxide primer and some aldi metalcare paint is usually what I go for!

[oldcars]

I did the underside of the Shuma with bilthamber UB a few years back seems to be working well. Also used UC on subframe etc. Its still sound. It gets comments of very clean/sound/solid/no rust/ good for year etc etc every mot 

[Tamworthbay]

Another vote for bilthamber, used it on a few cars and it works very well indeed. Not cheap to buy but a damn site cheaper/ easier than a shed load of welding and re spraying.

[sierraman]

Waxoyl ends up with a bad name because of the half arsed way people go about applying it.

 

You need to be starting with something rust free to start with. Not just winging it by pasting it over already rotten through floors or 'pumping' it inside the sills with one of those cack vinegar stroke 'applicators'. Another one is where people decide for some bizarre reason to start the job on a piss wet through filthy car in January.

[Guest Lord Sward]

I applied 2 litres of Hammerite Shultz to my 2 or 3 year old Mondeo way back in 2007/8.  I recently had to do a strip down underneath to get at the hand brake cables.  It all came apart beautifully.  Its now 9 years old and 70k miles.  I applied it using a 3phrase compressor mind you.  No rust where it was applied.

[purplebargeken]

BH all the way for me. Brilliant stuff.

[mercrocker]

I would prefer to strip and repaint.  However its not possible inside a chassis leg.  Yes, I only ever apply the stuff hot as I can handle it on a pre-warmed car well before winter sets in.  Waxoyl might perform well as a medium but the little fruit juice straw they give you is a fucking joke.   

 

Having read the above comments and thought about it a bit more I reckon BH aerosol into the chassis legs - even 2 cans a side is still cheaper than 1 hour of a welders time.   I have half a gallon of Waxoyl left so I am going to boil it up and funnel it into the sills.   I used this method across the back seat support which feeds directly into the rear legs/spring hanger rails and it still feels well greasy in there after a year. 

 

Going to experiment with a sprayer of some kind too, but need to get on with this now......

Thanks for the answers!

[Jikovron]

recentlyish I noticed that the underside of my bonnet was very well protected by a thick greasy coat mainly concentrated around the open breathers, so now they have pipe work leading into the inner wing / A pillar of which has just started to ooze slime into the door shuts and will be on a rota between the chassis rails and the A pillar

 

seems to keep the rust at bay as a byproduct of being a stinky engine

[richardmorris]

Anything is better than nothing. but as above, it depends how it's done. Nice hot day is best and my advice is to do it at work and not on your own drive!

[Station]

My friend uses copper grease. His reasons are it doesn't ignite, unlike waxoyl (which is easily very flammable) and is cheap.

Heat it up a bit and spray it inside.

[mat_the_cat]

Copper in electrical contact with steel (in the presence of an electrolyte, such as water...) will actually cause corrosion, although the grease carrier will help protect against the water for some time. The reason it works well as an anti-seize is more down to the copper allowing surfaces to slide against each other, rather than preventing rusting in the first place. I've actually treated some (zinc-plated) threads with copper grease, and left some dry, and the copper greased ones corroded first

 

I know I've mentioned it before but this convinced me that not all anti-rust waxes were the same:

 

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

[richardmorris]

Several times I had the welder doing the 2cv say - I see you've been waxoyling it again; it caught fire!

 

Edit, in retrospect not a glowing tribute to its rust preventing properties, however as with most of my cars, it is used to stop the discovered rust from getting much worse. It's a bit of a conundrum with 2cvs as the holes in the floor help the water escape!

[Station]

Copper in electrical contact with steel (in the presence of an electrolyte, such as water...) will actually cause corrosion, although the grease carrier will help protect against the water for some time. The reason it works well as an anti-seize is more down to the copper allowing surfaces to slide against each other, rather than preventing rusting in the first place. I've actually treated some (zinc-plated) threads with copper grease, and left some dry, and the copper greased ones corroded first

 

I know I've mentioned it before but this convinced me that not all anti-rust waxes were the same:

 

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

Yeah, I wouldn't use it anyway.

[PhillipM]

I'll swear by the BH stuff, great gear. I've had steel treated with their weld-through primer outside in all weathers for 5 years and it was still perfect.

[Lankytim]

Dinitrol injected via a long lance and compressor is the daddy

 

Sent from my Y635-L01 using Tapatalk

[gordonbennet]

Another vote for Bilt Hamber.

 

No it isn't cheap, but when you factor in the ease of application, the minimal loss (get more Waxoyl on the floor and me than on the car), the better job,  then the smell vanishes within a day or two not three months time, it wins every time.

 

I had a Hilux professionally rustproofed with Waxoyl, thats now a £400+ job for the works,  i reckon i did a better job mesen on the Landcruiser for £150/200 worth of the BH stuff.

[SamR380]

My Rover has an in-built automatic rustproofing system, administered from the front rocker shaft seal. It needs topping up every 200 miles or so but works surprisingly well. 

 

For my other cars I've gone Dinitrol after cutting open the chassis on my Dad's Land Rover to see how well Waxoyl worked. Please understand how much this pains me, I find it difficult to buy foreign products when British ones are available. Can anyone suggest a domestic alternative?

[gordonbennet]

BH are based in Essex, one can only assume the products are mainly Brit sourced, unless its a foreign owned UK sales/factory like nearly everything else made here.

[UltraWomble]

Sacrificial anodes bolted to the car.

 

Thats the way to go. In fact its a well known phact* that BL used sills made of magnesium in all their cars made from 1960 onwards and only once the sills have been sacrificed that the rest of the car starts to rust. Well-meaning but incompetent garages often replaced the galvanic anodes with steel over sills not realising the importance of the need for the anode action of the original material.

[Honey Badger]

Waxoyl is owned by Akzo isn't it so it's not a UK owned company.

Waxoyl has all off the rust proofing ability of a rotten lettuce and sticks about as well, Waxoyl is 60's tech at most with regards usability and flow, Bill Hambler is leagues ahead in protection, adhesion and most importantly flow, the stuff from rust.co.uk and Dinitrol is also really good stuff.

Waxoyl just lifts once water gets under it, the thickening effect as it cools quickly after hitting the body work means it doesn't flow into all cavities, the other products rely on a good rheology with the thickeners which allows it to flow without sagging and thickening too far.

If your using Waxoyl you may as well eat a candle and then piss in the box section for all the good it does.

[mercrocker]

HB agrees with my findings exactly.....The only use I have found for Waxoyl is boiling it up and pouring it in an open section where it can be seen to pool on the floor.   I am going to have to continue with the aerosol Dynax which I have to say works brilliantly out of the aerosol, the probe is long enough to reach everywhere and if you are stupid enough to put your face down where you are putting the probe it proves how well its working as you drag it back out with your finger still on the aerosol button.   Tastes like shit.

 

My only dilemma is if its worth investing in some spraying equipment to do a better job next year.   I use 8-10 cans at £15 a pop every summer.  Still cheaper than welder's time,  of course!

[Guest Lord Sward]

I thought Waxoyl was owned by Hammerite which is based in Northumberland?

[HMC]

Bh here too. Swear by the dynax s50 750ml aerosol jobs. After seeing the results of various " professional"

Outfits I believe I can get better results- doing a good job takes time, examining the layout of the structure and if there are existing entry points for the lance, and having the conditions right ( a hot day part way through a dry spell if you work outdoors) and I'm not stingy with how many of the 750ml aerosols I use. TBH I know I'm strange but I find it therapeutic!

[Honey Badger]

I thought Waxoyl was owned by Hammerite which is based in Northumberland?

 

Akzo own Hammerite.

 

Hammerite were a part of the ICI Dulux paint range which were brought out by Akzo a while back.

[Uncle Jimmy]

My Ovlov is heavily under sealed, I presume from new, there were a few areas where the underseal had pealed and there was surface rust underneath, so I wire brushed the rust off, hamerited and under sealed over.

I think that's the issue with underseal; it can look good but hide rust.

It's nice to see a car that is just painted underneath but that can be easily damaged by stone chips.

As for inside sills and the like I've used Sika wax, which is similar to Bilt Hamber.

It is very thin and gets into all the crannies but builds up very well and solidifies into a really thick coat.