Miniature harmonic balancer failure and keyhole surgery on PERODUA NIPPA

[castros_bro]

Just before it is consigned to the nearest skip here is the latest impossible to get to broken part on the K-car on case anyone has a spare bit.   The harmonic balancer which is the aux belt pulley has a broken relationship with it's self so the flexable rubber has split leaving the pulley in two unconnected parts.  There seems to be no suppler nor breaker nor alternative (Daihatsu Mira).  The centre bolt is tight and not enough space to get a socket on nor a puller if the bolt is removed.  Furthermore it appears to be minus 8 and the road side is a mix of snow, ice and salt.    Send brandy.  Here is a enlarged picture of the tiny bits.

 

 

 

 

 

[spartacus]

Oh dear. If* you could get it off I'd be tempted to carefully centralise it then weld it up. I don't think* it'll affect how the engine feels, just the longevity of the crank.

If you really want to bodge it and can see the bottom of the pulley from under the car, then take the belt off, push the outer part back on and wedge it in with some cardboard, then give it some MIG action, rotate, repeat etc.

Reassembly is the blah blah...

[spartacus]

Or maybe if you can drop the end of the engine by undoing the engine mount you'll be able to get it off.

I appreciate that non of my suggestions are going to be much fun in the current weather though.

Good luck.

[castros_bro]

Drive belt removed using special tool (wheel brace) and outer pulley bit retrieved. Seems to be cast iron so Mr Mig would probably just make pigeon shit lumps then fall off. The serious - home made - welding kit may see the light of day after 20 years in the cellar.  Matches bought just in case.

 

[Sigmund Fraud]

I'd probably run it with a smaller belt until time/weather permits a proper fix. Scrap that - had a closer look and realised it's the crank pulley that you're talking about !

 

Last time I visited my local scrapyard (Andover Car Breakers), they had a fairly complete Nippa in stock. If it's still there, I'm happy to try and extract the pulley for you !

[fordperv]

All else fails Get it off and take both to your local engineering firm to knock you something up one piece

 

Would one off a Kenari work for you? Saying that they are probably multi v

[castros_bro]

I'd probably run it with a smaller belt until time/weather permits a proper fix. Scrap that - had a closer look and realised it's the crank pulley that you're talking about !

 

Last time I visited my local scrapyard (Andover Car Breakers), they had a fairly complete Nippa in stock. If it's still there, I'm happy to try and extract the pulley for you !

 

 

That would be good, I'll get the remains of the this harmonic balancer - crank pulley off first so then there's some idea how to do that.

 

Have a gratuitous pic of a random Renault Vegane.

 

e

[dollywobbler]

Looks fun! John Childs, who supplied my Nippa new, can still get Perodua bits, but I imagine it'd be hellishly expensive. I had a right faff recently just trying to find the correct aux belt for ours, as NO-ONE lists the correct one. I do have a friend in the kei world who seems handy for part numbers, so if you want, I could give him a try. Vitally, he seems to understand which bits crossover to Daihatsu. Annoyingly, it isn't as simple as L200 bits fitting, because even though the Nippa IS an L200 Mira, it seems some bits got updated to later spec.

[castros_bro]

I'll give John Childs a try in case I need an option 3, for some reason I get the idea mine - with the engine swap - may be a Mira engined Nippa so taking the inner part of the demonic balancer off may be useful information.   There do seem to be light weight ally crank pulleys available from the overseas (turbo) racing fraternity  (US of A) but expensive and not sure the fitting is the same

[dollywobbler]

I'll give John Childs a try in case I need an option 3, for some reason I get the idea mine - with the engine swap - may be a Mira engined Nippa so taking the inner part of the demonic balancer off may be useful information.   There do seem to be light weight ally crank pulleys available from the overseas (turbo) racing fraternity  (US of A) but expensive and not sure the fitting is the same

 

They've all got Mira engines, it just isn't as clear as I thought it was which generation of Mira the engine is from. 

[castros_bro]

I'd probably run it with a smaller belt until time/weather permits a proper fix. Scrap that - had a closer look and realised it's the crank pulley that you're talking about !

 

Last time I visited my local scrapyard (Andover Car Breakers), they had a fairly complete Nippa in stock. If it's still there, I'm happy to try and extract the pulley for you !

Hi,

 

Pulley extraction required as per photos

 

If needed the under body will probably be rotten so solid jacking point is front subframe.

 

Remove OSF wheel reveals cutout in inner wing to access the pulley 19mm headed bolt and fit the special* locking tool / Phillips screwdriver .

 

 

Special locking tool just goes through one on the big slots to a convenient bit of engine casting

 

 

Slightly extended 1/2" ratchet and no hammering needed, normal anticlockwise to undo.

 

 

Pulley inner just slides off shaft - no extractor needed.

 

 

PS. useful Pub Quiz information the 4 threaded holes are M7, same as the chain adjusters on Guzzi 250TS

[Talbot]

If you do decide to go down the "just weld the fucker up" route, then there are ways and means of welding cast. I have done it in the past sucessfully to high-stress components and they have remained reliable.

 

The trick is prep and temperature.

 

Before welding, grind out and clean up the area to be welded. It needs to be freshly ground back material. Then, get the entire chunk of metal as hot as you possibly can with a blowtorch / propane torch or similar. If you can get it to begin to glow red (600°c and above) so much the better.

 

Then weld. Fairly hot weld, but note that the settings may need to be turned down due to the pre-heat on the parent material. If you're welding for longer than a few minutes, stop and get the blowtorch back out again to keep the parent material where you are welding and were you have already welded as hot as possible. Repeat as necessary until the weld is completed.

 

Now keep the blowlamp going and keep the whole component hot. Slowly turn down the flame over the period of about 20 mins. Allow the weld to cool as slowly as possible. This reduces the likelihood of cracking and keeps the final welded component as ductile as possible.

 

Jobbed.

[Sigmund Fraud]

Hi,

 

Pulley extraction required as per photos

 

Will pay them a visit on Sunday, fingers crossed the Nippa is still there !

[Sigmund Fraud]

Breaking news : SNO KAOS leads to widespread scrapyard closures in Hampshire. Public outrage as obscure Malaysian car owners in the south are left unable to obtain VITAL spare parts.

[somewhatfoolish]

What state is the remaining rubber in? If it's in good nick other than the two parts separating it might be worth trying to bond them back together with high strength goo like Sikaflex.

[Stanky]

If you want to go with the advice Talbot gave, I've got a little brazing torch and MAPP and Oxy bottles and am just down the road from you. Happy to assist if it comes to it? Should be easily able to heat the metal up to 600c and potentially higher.

[castros_bro]

Slight delay whilst being sacked then having bits of chest removed by NHS but managed to tack the two bits together to keep them aligned so the flex rubber can be removed then slowly infill with 99% nickel rods whilst on a gas ring.

 

 

 

[Sigmund Fraud]

Great stuff ! I've tried the scrap yard three bloody times, and they've been closed. I'll try them again on Saturday and report back.

[Sigmund Fraud]

Fourth visit to the scrap yard this morning, and the gates were finally open !

 

Unfortunately, the silver Nippa that used to adorn the "Japanese stuff" corner was nowhere to be found.

 

"Wha yo lookin fo, mate ?"

"That Perodua Nippa you used to have !"

"The wha ?"

"Perodua... Like a little Daihatsu... But Malaysian... Little silver boxy thing !"

"No mate... Don hav one."

 

 

[castros_bro]

Thanks for trying,  I do have a plan D and plan G and two nickel welding rods for cast iron.

[castros_bro]

After a blinding hour of alternating small welds with gas ring heating the quality engineering solution is like this.....................not too pretty but effective, no cracking and still balanced so no grinding of welds permitted.  Now all fitted back in place and running a new aux belt the Nippa (on cheap insurance) is going to get a 58% off, using code WKD58,  GSF oil change then tomorrow to a job interview where one clause said "must have own transport".

 

[bezzabsa]

doesnt the Matiz share some bits????

[dollywobbler]

doesnt the Matiz share some bits????

 

Nope. Matiz origins are more Suzuki, but the Matiz engine was breathed on by Tickford in the UK.