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Saab 93 WBOD - Fini


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Spent a couple of hours this afternoon in a shady spot with my head under the Saab's bonnet. No sign anywhere of the flap actuation rod. It would also appear that the swirl flap for No 4 cylinder has now jumped right out of its port. Buggerations.

 

I've also got 3 new faults which appear at random, but when they do, it's all at the same time. ABS, ESP and Traction Control failure. Going to trace more wiring diagrams tonight in the HBOL, I'm hoping again it's a dodgy connection or faulty ESP switch on the dash (had this before). Sometimes it's when I start the car, they're there immediately. Other times I could be driving for an hour and half with no fault.

 

However I'm now getting to the point of real frustration with this car, the Mrs no longer trusts it, and has started losing coolant and oil.

 

With MoT until mid May next year, I might put £100 a month by until then and get something a bit better. I think it's got to the point of not worth fixing TBH, unless there is a really brave shiter who wants to take it on?

Have you tried asking for advice on www.uksaabs.co.uk?

 

I know nothing about the diesels but your swirl flap fault is common and loads of people have fixed it and the info is on there somewhere.

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Have you tried asking for advice on www.uksaabs.co.uk?

 

I know nothing about the diesels but your swirl flap fault is common and loads of people have fixed it and the info is on there somewhere.

I have searched UK saabs without actually joining, plus several interwebs searches about the JTD type engine and swirl flaps in general and it could work then again it might not. 200k engine. Only other car I’ve owned with a similar mileage was a Mk3 golf turbo diesel and that didn’t smoke at all

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  • 1 month later...

Brakes started grinding on this last weekend, offside rear was the culprit. Thankfully have a garage now so can work on a nice level* surface for all sorts of jobs.

 

post-24583-0-33400400-1553348031_thumb.jpg

 

Hmm they look a little thin

 

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Yep, they're spagged.

 

Slider pins were very grubby and difficult to remove from the carrier so much faffing ensued. Mrs wanted to do housework instead of help me (I don't blame her), and stepdaughter is at work until 2pm. Took nearly half an hour to get both the slider pins out.

 

post-24583-0-89953700-1553348209_thumb.jpg

 

Pukka rewind tool employed

 

All reassembled with plenty of copper grease on the backs of the pads and the slider pins. Very slippy now so shouldn't drag or bind as it was doing.

 

Refitting is blah blah

 

post-24583-0-55779200-1553348328_thumb.jpg

 

Nearside for comparison, though the piston was a lot more difficult to wind back in for some unknown reason. Wouldn't go in without both the nipple open and hose removed, so I'll have to keep an eye on that.

 

Handbrake needs adjustment now (but I'm done for today with cars, I have gardening to do) Thankfully it looks like a 10 minute job.

 

TL:DR

 

I change my rear brake pads.

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GR8 m8

 

Just been waachinn 'South Main Auto' guy dooinn Camaro reline/full bleed.

 

He has a 'henry hoover' sized gizzmo which takes mains air line and then blows the fluid thru... Eazibleed but he rinsed a GALLON through the reservoir!

 

Oh to be a Pro....

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It doesn't sort out the emission or random ABS fault, but hey hoe I can deal with that when the time comes. Emissions will be sorted with a good run before the MoT. ABS random fault - pass. I think it's a broken wire or bad connection.

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Having just realised this old crate's MoT runs out in just under a month (I thought it was mid-May) I had a word with dad's tame garage, and they reckon it's worth de-flapping the manifold to sort out the emissions. I know when I've manually moved the flaps with some long nosed pliers the amount of shite coming from the exhaust varies from loads to virtually none when hot.

 

So I now need a cambelt, a flap removal kit and a load of gaskets. If I can do it for under £150 then I'll rewire the rear ABS sensors and bung it through a test.

 

Anyone got a set of timing lock pins I can borrow?

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You've done a shed load of sorting or trying to sort on this thing, hopefully not too far away now.

 

I'm considering getting a second hand manifold, performing the flap removal on that then swapping them like for like. Cambelts I've done before, it's removing a high pressure injector system that's got the old sphincter twitching!

 

Hopefully then it's just a case of finding the random ABS/ESP fault.

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Anyone got a set of timing lock pins I can borrow?

 

Yes, I have a set specific for the TDi 1.9 - guess that is what you have (cannot be bothered going through the thread :-) ) If it is of use you are welcome to borrow the kit, guessing you are a long way from Aberdeen so will have to post it to you.

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Not sure if you're doing the cambelt anyway but it doesn't have to come off to change the manifold. The pump will apparently come off by loosening the retaining nut on the pulley but not removing it. I've been reading up on the same as I've an Alfa 147 with the same engine.

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Not sure if you're doing the cambelt anyway but it doesn't have to come off to change the manifold. The pump will apparently come off by loosening the retaining nut on the pulley but not removing it. I've been reading up on the same as I've an Alfa 147 with the same engine.

IIRC, when I replaced the engine and fitted a new manifold to a TTiD, the pulley was held in place with 2 8mm bolts and the pump came off without disturbing the timing or belt.

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Ah yeh, that's it, you can lock the pulley with 2 of the cambelt cover bolts, then loosen the retaining bolt so the cambelt doesn't need disturbing.

 

I'm pretty sure you can get a brand new Pierburg one for about £130 on ebay (think they were the OE). The one on mine is £350!

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I fully intend on doing the timing belt anyway, it was done Jan 2018 but as there’s a small squeal coming from that side of the engine I think the tensioner is going to give up the ghost as well. One snapped cambelt this decade (Toyota) is enough this decade!

 

Yes, I have a set specific for the TDi 1.9 - guess that is what you have (cannot be bothered going through the thread :-) ) If it is of use you are welcome to borrow the kit, guessing you are a long way from Aberdeen so will have to post it to you.

Many thanks Saabnut, I’ll PM you tomorrow as I can’t get on with the mobile version tomorrow and my laptop is updating

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Neo Bros do a brand new one for £150. I hate working with Diesel manifolds, that Black stinking sticky gunk is Black,stinking and sticky.

 

https://www.neobrothers.co.uk/intake-inlet-manifold--gasket-saab-9-3-05-12--9-5-06-09-19-16v-diesel-5185-p.asp

I’ll use the parts washer at work, normally good for stinky lorry parts that get covered in all sorts pf crap. £150 for a new manifold is pushing my budget. I think thes manifolds cam be cleaned with Mr Muscle oven cleaner

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Ah yeh, that's it, you can lock the pulley with 2 of the cambelt cover bolts, then loosen the retaining bolt so the cambelt doesn't need disturbing.

 

I'm pretty sure you can get a brand new Pierburg one for about £130 on ebay (think they were the OE). The one on mine is £350!

Which one have you got? I rather like working on the Fiat/Vauxhall/Saab/Alfa 1.9. Saved a few that suffered cambelt failure- new rockers,a belt kit and good as new.

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Which one have you got? I rather like working on the Fiat/Vauxhall/Saab/Alfa 1.9. Saved a few that suffered cambelt failure- new rockers,a belt kit and good as new.

The later plastic manifold where everything’s internal. There’s a thread on the car in the moderns section

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I'd still have been saving the hassle of removing the manifold and just sticking a actuator rod repair kit on them.

2 have seized, one is half hanging out and the last is on its way to siezing. There’s a photo somewhere in this thread where the one that’s jumped out of its hole has left soot everywhere in the engine bay, either way to repair it or blank it the manifold has got to come off.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Started the manifold replacement today.

 

post-24583-0-06100900-1555702181_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of soot from missing swirl flap.

 

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EGR isn't too badly coked up but I'll still clean it with some oven cleaner.

 

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Engine mount out and top timing cover off. There's soot in there as well; shouldn't be. Belt looks older than 13 months......

 

Got the engine at TDC for cylinder 1 and locked. Still waiting for my nephew to bring over some larger Torx bits so I can get the fan belt tensioner off and set the camshaft timing - it appears 1 tooth out if the timing marks I've found are correct.

 

I've been flummoxed at getting the oil separator and vacuum reservoir off the back of the engine. Doesn't help where some twat in the past has broken the pipe clips and secured coolant hoses, breather hoses and the main wiring loom to various points with cable zippers. Probably half of my electrical woes over the last year caused by this.

 

I'm hoping tomorrow I can finish the job off.

 

And get less mucky.

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If you're doing the belt, don't forget the water pump. Usually goes shortly after the cambelt has been changed.

 

I do have a belt, I don't have a pump. Yet. 

 

TBH I just want to get it back up & running, so I may save the belt job for after the MoT.

 

More that's bothering me is getting this sodding oil separator off the back of the engine. I gave up after 2 hours as I cannot find what is keeping it in place. Haynes manual just says unbolt and remove.....

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Quick update while I stop for lunch

 

Oil separator and vacuum reservoir were an absolute shitpot to get out. HBOL said 4 bolts hold it to manifold- I found 6

 

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Pump out. Didn’t put up much of a fight which was good.

 

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Manky old manifold is now out.

 

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One extremely buggered swirl flap.

 

Just soffing on some marmite on toast, hopefully the diesel beast will be running this afternoon or evening.

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If you've seen the grumpy thread I'm not a happy boy.

 

post-24583-0-60274400-1555786266_thumb.jpg

 

replacement fannymould. fannymould flaps open and close as they should, motor isn't siezed or owt. Apparently came off a car with only 48k km from Germany.

 

got everything in place, connected, new hose clips for the fuel lines I'd disconnected. Went back together surprisingly easy.

 

post-24583-0-39290400-1555786429_thumb.jpg

 

The woodruff key for the pump drive didn't give me too much hassle either. Everything but the alternator belt is back on the car, reconnected battery and went to prime fuel system (3 turns of the key to 'ON' according to the owner's manual). All sounded good, turned over, had her running for about 30 seconds, and she blew one of these hoses on top of the injectors. Fuxakes.

 

post-24583-0-33249300-1555786662_thumb.jpg

 

I really hope I don't need a whole new injector, and I can just replace that bit on the top.

 

TL:DR my car came back to life then immediately died again.

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I try not to lean on an engine, especially not one with loads of gubbins running over the top. It doesn't need 23 and a half stone on top of it. I worked from the driver's side most of the time though there was no guarantee I didn't rub it with my ample midriff.

 

It just went while the engine was running, so it may well have gone anyway out on the road without me faffing about.

 

Service history for this car is relatively comprehensive, but nearly everything was original on that engine - EGR & DPF excluded until today.

Edited by dozeydustman
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How did you find this job overall? I need to do mine but everytime I look at how much needs removing/moving I die a bit and think 'just give it to alfatune and let him do it'

 

I've done easier, I've certainly done worse. It doesn't help that I'm a large oaf with huge fat fingers. Having the intake side at the rear of the engine bay is also a hindrance (who decided this was a good idea?).

 

The worst part was definitely the stripdown of all the gubbins attached to the engine. As I abandoned changing the cambelt I could have saved a good 1-2 hours of stripdown yesterday and the same amount of time reassembling today as well.

 

You must (partially) drain the coolant, at least 5 litres as it passes through the manifold, else you risk it draining from the manifold into the intake ports of the engine. Thankfully getting it all back on the car was quicker than stripping it down. Once the stripdown was done I got the pump and old manifold out in 15-20 mins, and the new manifold and pump back in in another half an hour or so, all up to required torque. The oil separator was the biggest arsehole to do as there were 6 nuts holding it in place, not the 4 the HBOL said.

 

If you need to change the glow plugs it's a good opportunity at the same time.

 

You'll need 10, 12, 13, 14, 17 & 22mm spanners and sockets, Torx T40, T45, possibly a T50 and E14, decent torque wrench, allen keys and long sleeves!

 

I allowed myself a couple of days to do this and if it wasn't for the leakdown pipe breaking, I'd have finished the job off and been driving about this evening.

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